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the first three days, and not released till they were out of sight of land. The first use they made of their recovered liberty, was, that the men jumped overboard; and the women, who attempted to follow them, were prevented only by force. The captain made the ship lay to, in hopes that they would return on board for refuge, when they were threatened by the waves. He, however, soon perceived how much he had been mistaken; for the savages, used to the water from their infancy, thought it not impossible, notwithstanding the distance of three days' voyage, to reach their native country; and at all events, they preferred perishing in the waves, to leading a miserable life in captivity. After they had disputed for some time as to the direction they should take, they separated; some took the direct way to Easter Island, and the others to the north. The captain, extremely enraged at this unexpected heroism, sent a boat after them, which returned after many fruitless efforts, as they always dived at the approach of the boat, and the sea compassionately received them in its bosom. At last the captain left the men to their fate, and brought the women to Massafuero; and is said to have afterwards made many attempts to steal some of the people from Easter Island. Adams had heard this story from the Captain himself, which was probably the reason he did not wish to mention his name: he assured me that he had been to Easter Island, in 1806, but was not able to land, on account of the hostile behaviour of the inhabitants: he said, that the ship Albatross, under the command of Captain Winship, had met with the same fate in 1809."

On the 16th of April they discovered an island in lat. 14° 15' 11" S., and long. 138° 47' 7" W. It was named Doubtful Island, as they were uncertain whether it might not be the Dog Island of Schouten. On the 20th, another small island was discovered in lat. 14° 57' 20' S,, and long. 144° 28' 30", and named after Count Romanzoff. Owing to the surf, it was impossible for a boat to land; but a prame was constructed which enabled several of the crew to reach the shore. They traversed the island, and found huts, and other traces of inhabitants, but did not meet with any.

On the 22d, another island, about eleven miles long and three broad, with a lake in the centre, was discovered, and named Spiridoff Island. It lies in lat. 149 41' S., long. 1449 59 20" W. They then proceeded to the Palliser Islands of Captain Cook, to the westward of which they discovered one of those chains of islets con

nected by a reef of coral, so frequent in certain parts of the Pacific Ocean. No traces of inhabitants were observed. The length of the most considerable of the islands, lying at intervals of from one to two hundred fathoms, did not exceed two miles. All of them, even the smallest, were thickly wooded. This group, which is situated in lat. 15° 15' N., Long. 146° 46′ W. received the name of Rurick's Chain. Immediately to the west, they passed another group, corresponding to the situation of Dean's Island in Arrowsmith's chart; and beyond it a third group, in all respects similar to the first, was discovered, and named after Captain Krusenstern.

On the 30th of the same month, they passed the Penryn Islands. Several canoes came off and traded with them. The natives are said to resemble those of the Marquesas, but are not tatooed, in which respect they differ from the other South-Sea islanders; they understood several of the words of the vocabulary of Cook's Voyages.

On the 21st of May, land was descried from the mast-head, which consisted of several coral islands, and resembled Rurick's Chain. These formed two groups, separated by a channel. They extend about twenty-five miles from north to south; lie in lat. 119 11' N., and long. 190° 9′ W. One of the groups was named Kutusoff, and the other Suwaroff.

On the 19th of June, the Rurick anchored in Avatscha Bay, and sailed again for Bering's Straits. On the 15th of July, they passed Bering Island, and landed on one of the islands of St Laurence. Their reception here was more hospitable than elegant.

"While our naturalists were strolling about the mountains, I entertained myself with my new acquaintance, who, as soon invited me to their tent. as they learnt that I was the commander, A filthy piece of leather was spread on the floor for me to sit on; and then they came up to me one after the other-each of them embraced me, rubbed his nose hard against mine, and ended his caresses by spitting in his hands and wiping them several times over my face. Though these signs of friendship were not very agreeable to me, I bore all patiently. To suppress their further tenderness, I distributed some tobacco-leaves, and were going to repeat all their caresses which they received with much pleasure, again. I hastily took some knives, scissars, and beads, and thus happily prevented a second attack. An almost still greater

misery awaited me; when, in order to refresh me, they brought forth a wooden trough of whale blubber, (a great delicacy among all the northern inhabitants of the sea coasts), and I bravely took some of it, sickening and dangerous as this food is to a European stomach. This, and some other presents, which I afterwards made them, sealed the bond of our friendly ac quaintance."

On the 30th of July, they entered Be ring's Straits, and discovered a small island which had escaped the notice of Captains Cook and Clarke. It was named Ratmanoff Island. They anchored same night on the American shore, abreast of an island within which an

inlet was seen, which apparently reach ed considerably into the interior. The island was named Saritscheff, and the bay Schischmareff, after the first lieu

tenant.

Next day they weighed anchor, and, with a favourable wind, proceeded along the American coast, which seemed to be well inhabited. The land soon took an easterly direction, and at eleven o'clock, on the 1st of August, they found themselves in the entrance of a broad inlet. The coast to the east disappeared, and high mountains were seen to the north.

From the 1st of August to the 14th, was employed in surveying this inlet, which stretches about a hundred miles to the south-east, terminating in two bays, which received the names of Escholze Bay and Spafarieif's Bay. The inlet itself was called Kotzebue Sound.* On the south-west side an opening was discovered, which was described by the natives as communicating with the sea; its western entrance will probably be found somewhere behind Sarytecheff's Island. Their progress in boats up this interesting passage was prevented by shoals; and the farther investigation was delayed till the following season, when it might be prosecuted in bayderais or light skin boats, whose draft of water would enable them to pass the shallows. It was named the Bay of Good Hope.

On the 8th of August, near the head of the inlet, they discovered a singular

geological curiosity, a hill covered with vegetation, the interior of which was pure ice, containing a quantity of Mammoth's teeth and bones.

"We had passed a very unpleasant night, for it was stormy and rainy; and as the morning promised no better weather, I resolved to sail back to the ship; but scarcely had we gone half way, when we were overtaken by a violent storm from the south-east: the long-boat drew much water, and we were obliged to return to the landing-place we had just quitted. Being wet through, I had a fire made of driftwood, which we found every where in plenty; we dried our clothes and prepared a refreshing soup. It seemed as if fortune had sent this storm, to enable us to make a very remarkable discovery, which we owe to Dr Escholtz. We had climbed much about during our stay, without discovering that we were on real ice-bergs. The doctor, who had extended his excursions, found part of the bank broken down, and saw, to his astonishment, that the interior of the mountain consisted of pure ice. At this news, we all went, provided with shovels and crows, to examine this rived at a place where the bank rises alphenomenon more closely, and soon arheight of a hundred feet; and then runs most perpendicularly out of the sea, to the off, rising still higher. We saw masses of the purest ice, of the height of a hundred feet, which are under a cover of moss and grass; and could not have been produced, but by some terrible revolution. The place which, by some accident, had fallen in, and is now exposed to the sun and air, melts away, and a good deal of water flows into the sea. An indisputable proof that what we saw was real ice, is the quantity of mammoths' teeth and bones, which were exposed to view by the melting, and among which I myself found a very fine tooth. We could not assign any reason, for a strong smell, like that of burnt horn, which we perceived in this place. The covering of these mountains, on which the most luxuriant grass grows to a certain height, is only half a foot thick, and consists of a mixture of clay, sand, and earth; below

which, the ice gradually melts away, the green cover sinks with it, and continues to grow; and thus it may be foreseen, that in vanish, and a long series of years, the mountain will green valley be formed in its stead. By a good observation, we found the latitude of the tongue of land 66° 15' 36", north. Here too, we obtained for the

*This sound will no doubt continue to bear the name of Kotzebue; but we cannot acquiesce in his claim to the discovery, although we have not been able to ascertain to whom that honour is due: it has been laid down in the charts for many years previous to the Russian expedition. The earliest chart in which we have observed it, is in that attached to Flurieu's Account of Marchand's Voyage, published about 1806, but constructed, we believe, about the beginning of the French Revolution.

variation of the magnetic needle a false result, 13" west."

On the 14th of August, the Rurick reached the promontory of the north side of the entrance of the sound, and which received the name of Krusenstern. From it the land bends to the NE., and then takes its direction to the NW., where it ends in a high promontory, supposed to be the Cape Mulgrave of Cook.

This was the extreme northern point of Captain Kotzebue's voyage; that he did so little for what was his principal object, the discovery of a Northwest Passage, must, no doubt, be ascribed in a great measure to the unfortunate accident that prevented him from prosecuting his discoveries on the following year; but we cannot help regretting the resolution he took of postponing his voyage when he had been only a fortnight within Bering's Straits, without having seen a particle of floating ice-with delightful weather, a fair wind, and the best part of the season still before hima resolution as unlucky for his fame as that of Captain Middleton, when he left unexplored the frozen strait in Sir Thomas Roe's Welcome, or of Captain Ross, when he tacked in Lancaster Sound.

The favourable circumstances we have mentioned, afford much encouragement to an expedition sent by the Pacific, should Captain Parry fail in circumnavigating America.

On their return to Bering's Straits, they had to encounter southerly winds, and a current which flows continually to the north-east, and which, in twenty-four hours, carried them fifty miles to the north of their reckoning; the existence of this current proves that the water meets with no opposition, and consequently, that there is a passage to the north of America: its direction would be singularly favourable to ships prosecuting a voyage of discovery from the Pacific.

On the 18th of August, they anchored at East Cape, but were prevented by the natives from advancing up the country. They quitted it on the 19th, and next day anchored in St Lawrence Bay, where they remained till the 29th. The manners of the Tschukutskoi, the natives of this part of Asia, are described at considerable length; they resemble the natives of the opposite coast of America, and

have already been frequently described.

From the Bay of St Lawrence, they proceeded to Oonalashka, where the Russian American Company have a settlement, and, after a stay of five days, sailed for Port St Francisco, in California, which they reached on the 1st of October, and were most hospitably received by the Spaniards. After refitting here, they sailed for the Sandwich Islands on the 1st of November, accompanied by John Elliot de Castro, a native of Portugal, who had been taken prisoner in a Russian vessel, engaged in a contraband trade on the coast of California. This person had been a surgeon at Rio Janeiro, and had resided for some time in the family of King Tamaahmaaḥ, a circumstance which afterwards proved of the greatest service to them. The rapid progress made by the Sandwich islanders in the arts of civilization, under that remarkable character, renders any information regarding them highly interesting; and Captain Kotzebue's account amply confirms the continuance of their advancement.

The Rurick arrived at Owhyhee on the 21st of November. The appearance of the Russians evidently excited a degree of distrust and alarm on the part of the natives, caused, it would appear, by some previous attempts of that ambitious nation to form settlements upon these islands. We have not a doubt that this intention would have been carried into effect, had it not been foiled by the energy and talents of Tamaahmaah. Campbell, who sailed in a Russian ship from Kodiak about 1809, expressly says, that preparations were made for making such a settlement, but, we presume, the cause we have mentioned prevented it, and Campbell was severely reprimanded for mentioning the circumstance in public.

A few months previous to the arrival of Kotzebue, two Russian ships touched at the islands, and left a person of the name of Scheffer, a physician, for the ostensible purpose of botanizing; but in reality, it would appear, to ascertain the possibility of the scheme, and had even gone so far as to hoist the Russian flag, with these words, "I take possession of the islands." This premature sten probably unveiled the purpose of his visit, and excited the well-grounded distrust

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with which our navigator was received, and which he hastened to dispel by assurances that the Emperor had no intention of conquering the islands. Tamaahmaah, contrary to his usual custom, did not go on board the ship, but sent an invitation to Captain Kotzebue to land, and desired one of his chiefs to remain on board as a hostage.

66 Accordingly, I rowed on shore at ten o'clock, accompanied by Messrs Elliot and Schischmareff, and a chief named John Adams. The view of the king's camp was concealed only by a narrow tongue of land, consisting of naked rocks, but when we had sailed round we were surprised at the sight of the most beautiful landscape. We found ourselves in a small sandy bay of the smoothest water, protected against the waves of the sea; on the bank was a pleasant wood of palm-trees, under whose shade was built several straw houses; to the right, between the green leaves of the banana-trees, peeped two snow-white houses, built of stone, after the European fashion, on which account this place has the mixed appearance of a European and Owhy hee village, which afforded us a new, but charming prospect; to the left, close to the water, on an artificial elevation, stood the Morai of the king, surrounded by large wooden statues of his gods, representing caricatures of the human figure. The background of this valley is formed by the high majestic Mouna Woororay, the height of which, according to my estimation, is 1687 toises; it rises on this side pretty steep; its ascent is varied by green fields and vales, with beautiful woods, between which you frequently perceive very large and overhanging rocks of lava, which give the whole landscape, by this mixture of wildness and cultivation, a most picturesque appearance. A number of islanders, armed with muskets, stood on the shore; the king came to meet us as far as the landingplace, with some of his most distinguished warriors, and when we got out of the boat he came up to me, and cordially shook me by the hand. Curiosity brought the people from all sides, but the greatest order prevailed, and no noise or importunity was permitted. I now stood at the side of the celebrated Tamaahmaah, who had attracted the attention of all Europe, and who inspired me with the greatest confidence by his unreserved and friendly behaviour. He conducted me to his straw palace, which, according to the custom of country, consisted only of one spacious apartment, and, like all the houses here,

the

afforded a free draught both to the land and sea breezes, which alleviates the oppressive heat. They offered us European chairs, very neatly made, placed a mahogany table before us, and we were then in possession of all the furniture of the palace. Though the king has houses built of stone in the European fashion, he prefers this simple dwelling, not to forsake the customs of his country; he imitates every thing he knows to be useful, and tries to introduce it among his people; palaces built of stone appeared to him superfluous, as the straw houses are convenient, and as he only wishes to increase the happiness, and not the wants of his subjects. Tamaahmaah's dress, which consisted of a white shirt, blue pantaloons, a red waistcoat, and a coloured neckcloth, surprised me very much, for I had formed very different notions of the royal attire. He, however, sometimes dresses very splendidly, having several embroidered uniforms, and other articles of dress. The distinguished personages present at our audience, who had all seated themselves on the ground, wore a still more singular costume than the king; for the black frocks look very ludicrous on the naked body; add to this, that they seldom fit, being purchased of American ships, where the people are not always so tall and so robust as the chiefs of the Sandwich Islands. One of the ministers had the waist half way up his back; the coat had been buttoned with the greatest difficulty; he perspired in his tight state dress; his distress was very evident, but fashion would not suffer him to relieve himself of this inconvenience. It is very singular that the savages should surpass the Europeans in bearing the inconveniencies which the power of fashion imposes on them. The sentinels at the door were quite naked; a cartridge-box and a pair of pistols were tied round their waist, and they held a musket in their hand. After the king had poured out some very good wine, and had himself drunk to our health, I made him acquainted with my intention of taking in fresh provisions, water, and wood. A young man of the name of Cook, the only white man whom the king had about him, was quick, not without education, and spoke fluently the language of the country; he had formerly served as pilot on board a ship, but had been settled on the island for several years. He was a favourite with the king, and was in possession of a considerable portion of land; he acted as interpreter between us. Tamaahmaah desired him to say to me as follows: I learn that you are the commander of a ship of war, and are engaged in a voyage similar to

It is the custom here to take the names of the Europeans with whom a friendship has been contracted.

those of Cook and Vancouver, and consequently do not engage in trade; it is therefore my intention not to carry on any with you, but to provide you gratis with every thing that my islands produce. This affair is now settled, and no further mention need be made of it. I shall now beg you to inform me, whether it is with the consent of your emperor that his subjects begin to disturb me in my old age? Since Tamaahmaah has been king of these islands, no European has had cause to complain of having suffered injustice here. I have made my islands an asylum for all nations, and honestly supplied with provisions every ship that desired them. Some time ago there came from the American settlement of Sitka some Russians, a nation with whom I never had any intercourse before; they were kindly received, and supplied with every thing necessary; but they have ill-rewarded me, for they be haved in a hostile manner to my subjects in the island of Woahoo, and threatened us with ships of war, which were to conquer these islands; but this shall not happen as long as Tamaahmaah lives! A Russian physician, of the name of Scheffer, who came here some months ago, pretended that he had been sent by the Emperor Alexander to botanize on my islands; as I had heard much good of the Emperor Alexander, and was particularly pleased with his bravery, I not only permitted M. Scheffer to botanize, but also promised him every assistance; made him a present of a piece of land, with peasants, so that he could never want for provisions; in short, I tried to make his stay as agreeable as possible, and to refuse none of his demands. But what was the consequence of my hospitality? Even before he left Owhyhee, he repaid my kindness with ingratitude, which I bore patiently. Upon this, according to his own desire, he travelled from one island to another, and at last settled in the fruitful island of Woahoo, where he proved himself to be my most inveterate enemy destroying our sanctuary the Morai; and exciting against me, in the island of Atooi, King Tamary, who had submitted to my power years before. Scheffer is there at this very moment, and threatens my islands. Such was the account given by the king; for the truth of which I can only say, that Tamaahmaah highly distinguishes every European who settles in his islands, if his conduct be good; and that he is generally known to be an upright and honest man. I am not personally acquainted with M. Scheffer, but have since learnt the manner in which he came to the Sandwich Islands. He had served as phy. sician on board the Suwaroff, belonging to the Russian American Company, which went, in 1814, from Cronstadt to Sitka, under the command of Lieutenant Lasaref.

From motives unknown to me, Lieutenant Laseref left Dr Scheffer, in 1815, at Sitka, and returned to Europe without a physician. M. Baranof, who generally resides at Sitka, as director of all the Russian American colonies, and whose character is but indifferent, took him under his protection, and sent him to the Sandwich Islands; with what intention is not known. How he conducted himself there the reader has been informed.

"I assured Tamaahmaah that the bad conduct of the Russians here must not be ascribed to the will of our Emperor, who never commanded his subjects to do an unjust act; but that the extent of his empire prevented him from being immediate. ly informed of bad actions, which, however, never remained unpunished, when they came to his knowledge. The king seemed very much pleased on my assuring him that our emperor never intended to conquer his islands; the glasses were immediately filled, to drink the health of the Emperor; he was even more cordial than before, and we could not have desired a more agreeable and obliging host. He conversed with a vivacity surprising at his age, asked us various questions respecting Russia, and made observations."

From Owhyhee they proceeded to the harbour of Hanarura in Woahoo, which, from its fertility, is called the Garden of the Sandwich Islands. The marks of advancement in the arts of civilization observed here were very striking. Many of the houses were built in the European fashion. A number of ships lay at anchor in the harbour, two of which bore the flag of Tamaahmaah; and the same flag was displayed from the walls of a fort, from which the Russians were jealously excluded. In some respects these changes were not altogether agreeable. The times are gone by, when a nail or a few glass beads could command value of hard cash is known here as the services of the natives; and the well as in the oldest communities. The Rurick was exempted, as a man-ofwar, from the regular harbour-dues, but forty piastres were charged for pilotage and towing the ship into the harbour.

They remained at Hanarura till the 14th of December, and departed under mutual salutes from the fort and Tamaahmaah's man-of-war. The account of the continued progress of these islanders in the arts of civilized life will be perused with much interest. The great man under whom they have made such rapid steps, is now no

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