FISHERFIELD AND LETTEREWE.

BY GEO. T. GLOVER.

ANYONE commencing an account of climbing or crossing the hills of the glorious north-west of Scotland is at once faced by the horrid thought that should his screed be of any interest, and should it fall into the hands of the nonelect (such as those not bound by the solemn oath of the S.M.C.), it might lead sundry such persons to conclude that Ross-shire is free to all comers at all seasons, and so to plan a trip during the summer, either to find that he is debarred from such glorious places, or worse still, that he has spoilt other people's sport, for one day at least, if not more. So let me state that the places hereinafter mentioned are all in the heart of strictly preserved forest, and that permission is absolutely necessary to enter and should not be asked between 1st July and the end of the year.

During our memorable three days at Poolewe in May 1909 W. N. Ling and myself at eventide gazed at the mists forming and reforming at the far end of Fionn Loch. In particular, they appeared to hover around two rock towers, the easternmost of which appeared to be a veritable "Torr na h' Iolaire." On winter evenings, assisted by the Inverbroom 1-inch Ordnance Sheet, No. 92, Ling and I often discussed those rocks and fondly hoped that they would be such gorgeous pinnacles as one might expect to find on the celebrated Scottish mountain, the Distincthorn, non-Munro though it be. The first ascent of the splendid north peak of Beinn Airidh Charr at Easter 1910, afforded us surreptitious glances across the lochs, somewhat damping our enthusiasm, as no towers were apparent, but there appeared an attempt at bastions, so we agreed that an early visit was desirable, for (in addition) we feared an attack on these crags by our Hon. Secretary on some off-day when the starting handle of his car was not striking for recognition.

The whole of this district between Loch Maree and

Little Loch Broom is an exceptionally fine one and consists largely of the famous forest of Fisherfield and Letterewe, and as both Ling and myself were free for a few days at Coronation time, all we needed was similar weather to the ever memorable "Sea to Summit " sample of 1902, but unfortunately we struck about the only break in the marvellous summer of 1911.

Midday on Wednesday, 21st June, found us at Garve and we motored to Dundonnell without incident, the one change in the strath since our visit being the influx of cars, which has rather removed the feeling of remoteness and has led, as we saw, to some scandalous exhibitions of road-hoggishness. We were pleased to find Dundonnell full to overflowing and so decided to go straight on that night to Larachantivore where we had been granted permission to stay. Ominous clouds were drifting up from the south-west as we drove back along the three miles of road with the Urquharts to the commencement of the path up Gleann Chaorachain just above Corryhallie. As we mounted, we were soon met by sheets of rain driven by heavy gusts from the Teallachs, which looked grim with the storm clouds around them, the Coire Loch Toll an Lochain being inky black, slashed with snow in the deepest recesses. When we looked over the col into Strath na Sheallag, the place was a sea of mist, and now thoroughly wet through, we passed by our old haunts of Achneigie and Shenavall, opposite the latter fording the Abhuinn, which, we afterwards learnt, would have been a difficult matter six hours later when in spate. On arrival at Larachantivore, Mr and Mrs Angus were surprised to see us, as it had set in a thoroughly bad night; but we were soon inducted into the tin hut, and the howling of the wind and the thrashing of the rain on the roof were most com forting sounds at night, except when to-morrow's expedition was thought of.

It was annoying on such a short holiday to find on rising next morning (Thursday, 22nd June) that the day was quite unfitted for exploration purposes-thick mist, heavy rain, and all the hillsides white with burns in spate. We, however, decided to start, and left our hut at

June 1911

OF

10.10, tramping up Gleann na Muice Beag, down which we returned from Beinn Dearg Mhor in 1907. The path commences soon after leaving Larachantivore, and at first rather indefinite, becomes really first-class in about another half-mile, thereafter continuing so all the way to Carnmore on Fionn Loch—a matter of some eight miles or so. The rain ceased as we mounted the zigzags past Loch Beinn Dearg and our spirits rose up to the pass at 1,400 feet, but wavered when the storm recommenced as we strode along the level, stony moor towards Lochan Feith Mhic-'illeana "weary" looking place on such a misty day. By the time we reached the corner (where the path turns westward to Carnmore, and where one should get a perfect view of the Dubh and Fionn Lochs backed by Beinn Lair) (Fig. 1) the day was so hopeless that we beat a retreat, to find on our arrival at Larachantivore at 2.20 P.M. that Fionn Loch had received the worst of the storm and that the country was drying rapidly; so after tea and a change into the oddest of garments, Ling suggested a turn on the Dearg.

Few hills are so well placed relatively to a hut as Beinn Dearg Mhor is to Larachantivore, and at first only intending a short walk, we mounted higher and finally decided to make a complete circuit of the Dearg. We first made up into the corrie, where it is almost a shock to find no lochan; we then slanted upwards to our right to the first rocks on the north-east horn of the crescent. We looked at a very striking crack, which in any other type of rock would have been worth a trial, but we left it to our right as we scrambled up about 150 feet on rock of the standard sandstone type, such as everywhere appears to be excessively easy but at close grips gives one so little. encouragement that any steep angle soon becomes unclimbable. I remember that on a traverse of one of the awkward slabs on this portion, the rope was comforting, but probably of slight use. Once off this, mixed scree and grass took us to the ridge, and the circuit became merely a fine walk with glorious views all around, especially to the westward where the Hebrides appeared, like St Brandan's Isle, away in the sunset. Sentiment-excepting that of loyalty which led to a verse of the National Anthem