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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Start from Southampton-Storm in the Channel-Expected Din-
ner at the Isle of Wight-Porto Santo-Another Storm-Arrival
at Madeira
PAGE
13
CHAPTER II.
Season of Madeira and England contrasted-Agreeabilities of the
Island-Its Resources-City of Funchal-The Fair Sex
CHAPTER III.
The Garden and Establishment of the American Consul-The
Plaza do Constitutiao-The Canons of the Romish Church-The
Landed Proprietors
24
34.
CHAPTER IV.
Rides and walks near Funchal-The Mount Church-The Water-
fall-Cumacha-Description of a Quinta
41
CHAPTER V.
The Longevity and Fecundity of Madeira-Mendicancy-Anec-
dote of a precocious Youth-Ill-repaid Labor
49
CHAPTER VI.
Tour of the Island-The various Productions-The different Peaks
--Arrival at St. Anna
56
vi
CHAPTER VII.
Ascent of Pico Ruivo-View from the Summit-Sao Jorge-Pass
of the Torrinhas-The Great Curral
CHAPTER VIII.
The Vintage-The Origin of the Madeira Grape-The various
kinds of Wine
CHAPTER IX.
Arrival of President Roberts-Dinner of the Consul-Mr. Roberts'
Account of Liberia-Its Trade and Prosperity-Line of Steamers
between the United States and the Western Coast
66
74
87
CHAPTER X.
Doubts of the Discovery of the Island-Plutarch's Story-The Phe-
nicians The Romance, perhaps true, of Robert Machin and,
Anne D'Arfert
94
CHAPTER XI.
Departure from Madeira-Entrance of the Tagus-First view of
Lisbon-First Interrogatory there-Monopolies-Arrival
CHAPTER XII.
98
Vexatious Police-Lisbon-Taxation-Military Service-Carriages
-The Queen-King Consort
CHAPTER XIII.
Cintra-Palace-Quinta of John de Castro--Panoramic View-
Torres Vedras--Coimbra-Story of Inez de Castro-Oporto
105
. 111
CHAPTER XIV.
Early History of Portugal-The Roman Domination-The Arabs-
The Recapture of Lisbon by the Crusaders-The Discoveries
under Dom Manuel and Dom Henrique
vii
CHAPTER XV.
Arrival at Cadiz-Hotel Blanco-Olla Podrida-The Muchachas-
Robbers-Cigar Manufactory-Asylum for the Poor
CHAPTER XVI.
183
San Maria-Xeres-Pedro Domecq's Establishment-Wines of
Xeres-Journey to Seville
CHAPTER XVII.
Seville-Table d'Hôte-Las Delicias-Outside the Walls-Don
Gaetano Peickler
CHAPTER XVIII.
High Mass-The Cathedral-Dolores-Bull-fight
Dolores-Study of Spanish-The Alcazar-Casa de Pilatos-El
Museo-Murillo-Spanish Courtesy-Baile-The French Danc-
The Franciscan Friar-Visit to Dolores-Her views of Confession
-The Giralda-The Cathedral-The Drive around the City 196
Mr. Peickler on Gipsies-Our Walk to Triana-Washington Irving's
Haunt-Gipsies-Their Eye-Chastity of the Girls-The Gipsy
Dance
CHAPTER XXII.
Ride to Cordova-Carmona-La Luisiana-Adventure at a Posada
-Ecija-Cordova-Its History-The Mosque
CHAPTER XXIII.
A short Exordium-Dolores-The Theater-Catalina--The Story
of her Life
. 213
228
250
CHAPTER XXIV.
Danger Scipio Africanus and the Author encountered in Spain-
The Author greater than Demetrius Poliorcetes-Breakfast on
the Steamer-Voyage to Cadiz, and Arrival-History of Cadiz―
Departure for Gibraltar, and Voyage
CHAPTER XXV.
Gibraltar-The Guides and Monkeys--The Rock-St. Michael's
Cave English Officers-Rides-San Roque
CHAPTER XXVI.
Start for Ronda-My Costume and Companion--Gancin-Story
of Pépé-Ronda
264
285
. 297
CHAPTER XXVII.
View from the Moorish Tower-La Casa Del Rey Moro-The Fair-
Bull-Fight-Alameda-Moonlit Scenery-Hog-Funcion-Fruit
-Wild-Boar Hunt
. 817
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Departure-Sheep-Robber-cave-Arrival at Malaga-Its Pro-
ducts-Vintage-Raisins-The Muchachas cracking Almonds-
Alameda-Start for Grenada
336
CHAPTER XXIX.
The Vega of Grenada-My Arrival-Visit to the Alhambra-" El
Niéto" Grandson of the Alhambra-The Influence of Irving
upon its Present Condition
CHAPTER XXX.
Pépé Fonda de San Francisco-The Hill of the Alhambra-Mateo
Ximenes-His Story-The Generaliffe-La Silla del Moro-An
Epitome of Spanish History .
CHAPTER XXXI.
The Moor from Tangiers--His Dress--The Former Glories of the
Alhambra-The Moorish and Christian Religions Compared
358
. 878
393
CHAPTER XXXII.
The Archbishop's Palace-The Cathedral-The Royal Chapel-
Ferdinand and Isabella--French Occupation and Influence-
Society of Grenada-The Alameda
CHAPTER XXXIII.
ix
397
Boabdil's Gate-Pépé's Story of the Haunted Tower
CHAPTER XXXI V.
Ride to El Picacho de la Vileta-The Venta-The Immaculate Con-
ception--The Robbers-The Copita of Aguardiente-The Night
at El Prevesin-The Ascent of Picacho-The View-The Re-
turn
405
415
CHAPTER XXXV.
Mendicancy-The Man with Crutches-The Beggars' Frolic-The
old Hag-The Muchacha--The Contrabandista
CHAPTER XXXVI.
Sympathy with Traditions and Superstitions-Freshness of Span-
ish Life-Peculiar Institutions--Cheapness of Living-My De-
parture
431
443