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served—Patissiers, where you may it 'suggests recollections of atroregale on patties and ices--theatres city, anri supplies sights of fascina: and billiard rooms. But the Pa- tion: it displays virtue and vice lais Royal, which is justly said by living on easy terms, and in imthe Parisians to be without its mediate neighbourhood with each equal in the world, demands to be other. Excitements, indulgencies, principally noticed, now that I am and privations-art and vulgarity to touch on these subjects. -science and ignorancemaritime
It is a square enclosure, formed conspiracies, and careless debana of the buildings of the Orleans cheries--all ningle here, forming Palace; piazzas make a covered an atmosphere of various exhalawalk along three of its sides, and tions, a whirl of the most lively the center is an open gravelled images, a stimulating mela:ge of space, with a few straight lines of what is most heating, intoxicating, slim trees running along its length. and subduing. Tbere is a neat compact elegance The Palais Royal was the focus visible in the architecture of wbat of the revolution : its coffee-bouses, was the palace-but the building its theatres, its cellars, its gambis now insignificant compared with ling-houses, its bagnios, poured its purposes, and you can vo more forth their living streams into its attend to its proportions, iban you central space, to listen to the incould fix your attention on the vitations of the orators, who inprospects adorning the banks of a cited the people to carry into efriver, if you were hurried down fect the tremendous plans organized one of its cataracts.
within its concealments. It was The climate of France, and the here, that a joke, or a nod, operatcharacter of the French, conspire ing on a loose, reckless, heartless, to cause them to seek their plea- rabble, was, in general, tlie manstires out of doors. Home is the date of torment and carnaged only place they neglect; it is a sometimes, by well-timed and forplace only for their necessities; tunately directed obscenity and they njust sleep there—and the falsehood, the instrument of dissitradesmen must transact their husi- pating the fury of those whom ness tbere; a bed, a table, and a mercy could not soften, and justice few chairs are therefore wanted, could not restrain. A raging, voand a small room or two, uncar- ciferating gang of murderers, men peted and bare, must be hireil. I and women, brandished their pikes speak, of course, of the middle to destroy the house and family of and inferior classes. But all that an aristocrat, who had bimself is inspiring and comfortable, they escaped from their fury. An apseek out of doors--and all that peal' to principle and feeling was they pride tbemselves in being able out of the question at such a time, to procure, is in the shape of deco and to such beings; but a profliTation and amusement.
gate pleasantry supplied the suitaThe Palais Royal has grown to ble application. “Why pall down .be what it is, out of these habits bis house?"-exclaimed the interand dispositions, and now presents cessor, mounted on a chair" it the most characteristic feature of is bis landlord's :"--" wby kill his . Paris : it is dissolute, gay, wretch wife?"__" she is the public's :"ed, elegant, paltry, busy, and idle: why massacre his children ?".
they are probably some of your not be deprived of the right of exown."—A yell of merriment broke volting over the fall of guilt, in out from the congregation of fu- which they bad deeply participated ! ries, and the laugb of vice proved, The Palais Royal is still a place in tbis instance, a reprieve for the where news and politics are disinnocent.
cussed, and it puts on its air of The infamous Duke of Orleans, bustling dissipation, and lounging to whom the palace belonged, here sensuality, at an early hour of the expended his immense wealth in morning. The cbairs that are nursing, by means of the niost hor- placed out under the trees, are to rible inmoralities, the revolution, he bired, with a newspaper, for a of which he himself was the vic. couple of sous a piece: they are tim. The scenes that were acted soon occupied; the crowd of sit. here at that time are not suscepti- ters and standers gradually inble of description : the almost une creases the buz of conversation bounded revenues of this weak and swells to a noise-the cafes fillwicked prince, we directed at the the piazzas become crowdedbe suggestion of the most abominable place assumes the look of intense wretches, to every purpose of bu. and earnest avocation--yet the man depravity, included within whirl and tbe rush are of those who the opposite limits of sensual in- float and drift in the vortex of dulgence, and cold and cruel am- pleasure, dissipation, and vice. bition. From hence issued out the The shops of the Palais Royal ferocious mohs of prostitutes, pois are brilliant; they are all devoted sardes, and blackguards, whose either to toys, ornaments, or luxu. character and conduct form the ries. Nothing can be imagined history, for several
of more elegant and striking than tion calling itself. great. The day their numerous collections of orat length came, when he who bad namental clock-cases; they are never been but the creature of formed of the wbitest alabaster, those whom he fancied he guided, and many of them present pery in. was to perisb by the storm he had genious and fanciful devices. One, assisted to raise. The Duke of for instance, that I saw, was a feOrleans was dragged to his death male figure, in the garb and with hy the mobs who had been trained the air of pleasure, biding the in his pay, and his last journey hours with a fold of beș scanty was marked by an incident truly drapery; one hour alone peeped French : those who had partaken out; and that indicated the time of of the debaucheries and crimes of the day; the mechanism of the the Palais Royal, stopped its owner works caused it to be succeeded by opposite to its well-known gate, the next in sụccession. There are when be was on his way to the fac also several passages at the back of tal machine' that was to terminate the place itself, all full of this sort his miseries and crimes! They of display, though of an inferior wished to read in his haggard coun- kind, and including the features of tenance' the emotions caused by vice in more distinct deformity. this sight, so pregnant with intole- Many of the shops in these, are rable recollections ; they could not kept by small booksellers, who exdėny themselves the 'indulgence of pose their wares beyond their winthis extra barbarity; they would dows on stalls; and the mention
ing of this fact, induces me to no man's estimation, their places of tice here, two circumstances highly public resort and refreshment have characteristic of Paris, and indica ap air of enjoyment, abundance, tive of its moral and social state. frankness, and congeniality, to
The first is the extreme profli- wbich he has been utterly unac. gacy and filthiness. of the books customed. From five to half past and prints that are exposed for sale. seven, crowels of both sexes pour The vilest publications lie about into all the numerous receptacles every wbere, throwing in your face of this description, the invitations a grossness which amounts rather to wbich hang forth so thick as to to brutality than mere sensuality. astonish the British stranger. The It is a proof how deep and general price cbarged within for dinner, is is the viciousness of manners wbich specified on many of the signs, and causes this, that they run through varies from twenty-five sous, about all the degrees necessary to adapt one shilling, to four franks, above them to every class of purcbasers. tbree. For tbese sums four or five Some are as elegant as art can dishes a bead are promised; half a make them,-others mere villain- bottle, or a bottle of wine, a deous deformities. There are edi- sert of fruit, and bread “ at distions of tbe works of all the esta. cretion." The latter stipulation blished anthors, graduated for of this engagement is no trifling every description of taste:-in one one, for it is known that a French. the prints are chaste and good, in man's discretion in the article of another licentiousness begins to ap- bread, is not of the soberest kind. pear,-io a third it is more appa The superior Restorateurs, hoir. rent,- in a fourth it amounts to ever, specify notbing ;-and here obscenity. All these are finely both the supply and the serving-up executed, but there are others, re are of the most elegant descripgulated according to the same scale tion. Casts from the exquisite anof wickednesss, which are done in a .tiques in the Louvre, stand in the much inferior way for the wants of niches, ---lamps, with beautiful the poor. From the completeness shades, throw a noble light on the of the supply may be judged the tables,--the waiters are active, and extensiveness and certainty of the Madame, the mistress, sits in her demand. But the most borribile splendid recess, as a superintendcircumstance connected with this isigaivinity, decorated, stately, yet branch of Parisian manufacture gracious; her looks full of the remains to be told; it is so much consciousness of lier sex and staa matter of common trade, that tion, her manner, welcoming, pothe women in the shops, and every lished and adroit. In the artifices shop is kept hy a woman, vend of cookery, and all the seductions these articles with the atmost un of the table, the French are adepts : concern.
110tbing can lie more unfounded To return now to the Palais than the counmon idea in England, Royal. It may, after this digres- that they are comparatively temsion, be supposed to be the hour of perate in this respect. Their vadiuner ; and the salons of the re- riety of dishes tempts the appetite, storateurs are all full. In propor- their rich sauces apply themselves tion as the bomes of the Parisians irresistably to the palate: instead are uncomfortable in an English- of eating less meat, becanse they
take more soup than the English, duct would prevail among them, they add the additional soup to a that they would become insufferamuch larger repast of meat than ble nuisances; whereas in Paris, is commonly made in England. A A there is notbing seen painfully to little delicate looking woman, will offend the eye, and this is enough think it no violation to say—“0, to satisfy the Parisians that they mon Dieu ! j'ai mangé pour quatré, ought not to shock the mind. and really, both females and men In regard to the nuptial ties and apply. tbemselves witb a determi- abstinence from sensual indulpation, dexterity, and carelessness gences, the French are notoriously of observation, to the contents of Jess strict tban the English : hut their numerous dishes, which, in a their prostitutes are better bebaved, country where the secret is less and their public assemblages are known how to redeem by manner not so boisterous--the causes of the essential grossness of things, which are, that their women of the would constitute downright gore town are less a peculiar class than mandizing.
those of England. The advance of the evening Above the cellars and the shops throws out still more prominently of the Palais Royal, there are the the native and most peculiar fea. elegant Cafes, the common and litures of the Palais Royal. When censed gambling houses and bage the numerous windows of its im- vios, and, still bigber, the abodes mense mass of building are lighted of the guilty, male and female, of up, and present to the eye, contem every description. The first medplating them from the dark and de- tioned (the Cafes) are in fact serted ground in the center, a brilliant temples of luxury : on enburning exterior, leading the ima- tering them for the first time, one gination to the lively scenes within, is almost struck hack by tbeir glare perhaps a more in pressive specta- of decoration and enjoyment. Lacle is not to be found in the world. dies and gentlemen in their colours, From the foundations of the build- and statues in their wbiteness, and ing, floods of light stream up, and busy waiters, and painted walls, illuminate crowds that make their anal sparkling delicacies of every ingress and egress to and from the kind, are mingled, and repeated, cellars, that are places both of and extended in appearance to inamusement and refreshment: here finity, by numerous inirrors, which there are dancing dogs, blind men add vastness to elegance, and the who play on musical instruments, effect of a crowd to the experience hallad singers, petite plays, and the of accommodation. game of dominos. The tables are Leaving these scenes where pleacrowded with men and women sure puts on her gayest trappings, wives mingle with prostitutes, and appears in all her smiles and tradesmen with sharpers; the re fascinations, you may enter others freshments are all of a light na
where her attire is coarser, and ture; nothing like intoxication is she has assumed more of the seen, and there is no very gross louring, jaded, desperate look breach of decorum in behaviour. of vice. The Cafe Montensier
It is very certain, that if there was a theatre during the revolu: were any simili places of resort tionary period, and still contiin London, such abominable con nues to be divided into galleries and
pit:--the stage is covered with a the features of deformity in their vast bouquet of flowers. Here most revolting aspects. the company is understood to be There is yet much more that he of a loose description: the men are longs to the Palais Royal, but I chiefly military,--the women prose believe I have described all that titutes,
will bear description. Prostituta The gambling rooms.constitute tion dwells in its splendid apartspectacles purely shocking. They ments, parades its walks, starves are licensed and inspected by the in its garrets, and haunts its cor, government, and therefore they are It is not, certainly, so rio. orderly and regular on the surface tous in its manner as in England; of their arrangements and beha but it is easy to see, that its profilia viour, but they are licensed by the gacy is of a deeper, fouler, more goveroment, and therefore they de nauseous kind. Old men and old stroy the foundations of order, mo. women are employed as regular in. rals, honour, and loyalty.
viters, and they think they consult On entering these horrid places, the interests of those who employ you are first startled by the
prepao them, by putting their invitations ration of taking from you your bat in terms the most offensive to a and stick in the anti-chamber; manly taste. when you proceed into the rooms Such is the Palais Royal;-, where they play, your beart is wi vanity fair, a mart of sin and sethered by anxious looks, and a duction! Open, not on one day heated sțillness, rendered more im of festival, or on a few holidays, pressive by the small interruptions but every day of the week. Every given to it by the sudden sharp day does it present stimulants and click of a bit of woos, which in- opportunities to profligacy and extimates that the winner is seizing travagance, to waste, and riot, bis money. About these hellish and idleness. It is there-always tables, balf-pay officers, private ready to receive the inclined, to soldiers, clerks, and ex-employes, tempt the irresolute, to confirm are seen in a desperate contention bad babits, and dispel good resoluwith treacherous fortune; the ex tions. It is there,as a pestilenpression of the face as the trem tial focus of wbat is dangerous and bling hand puts down the piece of depraved, a collection of loose money is awful; one piece follows and desperate spirits, in the heart another; gold is succeeded by sil- of a luxurious capital, as a point
and, from five franc coins, the of uuion for every thing that is unfortunate wretch is reduced to evil, where pleasure, in all her the risk of a single franc. He worst shapes, exists, in readiness loses it, and leaves the room with a to be adapted to every variety of face that bespeaks him drained and disposition, and to enslave and desperate. For what atrocity is corrupt the heart by making the he not now prepared ? The ap senses despotic. There is but one pearance of women at these tables Palais Royal in the world, say the is still more horrible; their sex, Parisians, and it is well for the which is so susceptible of lovely world that there is but one. appearances, natural and moral, Besides the amusements bere alseems equally calculated to display luded to, there are ten theatres in