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CONTENTS OF VOL. II.
DT279 K3
v. 2
CHAPTER I.
Land at the Goletta-Arrive at Tunis-Sketch of its history
-Population of the city-Situation-View from the Bel-
vedere-The Bardo-Interview with the Bey-Architecture
of Tunis-"Sooks "-Shops-Sales by auction-Honesty
of the crowd-Flowers-Annual expedition to the Jereed—
Bey of the camp
CHAPTER 11.
1
Hamman el Enf-Lover's vows-Arrive at Solyman-The
Sheick's disappointment-Boar hunt-A Tunisian sports-
man-His misadventure-Bees-The mare and foal-
Rhades-Lake of Tunis-The Goletta-Carthage-Quail
Shooting-Chapel of St. Louis-Bordj Jedeed-Cisterns
of Carthage-Sir Thomas Reade's excavations-Ruins
Abdalleeah-Sir T. Reade's collection-Beautiful intaglio
-Second visit to the Bardo-Signor Raffo-Dragomen -
Supply of water-The consulate-Marine gate
-
22.
CHAPTER III.
Departure from Tunis-"Amers" of the Bey-Our escort-
Djebel Mukhtar-Grumbalia-Olives-El Arbain-Pro-
bable scene of Masinissa's escape-Ruins-A disputed point
-Ksar el Menarah-Sebkah el Jereeba-History of Baba
Jebb--Ancient custom-Arab miles-Hergla-Antiquities
-Numidian cranes - Gardens Pottery of Gerbah
Arrival at Susa
47
CHAPTER IV.
Susa-Ruins of Adrumetum-Tunisian Infantry—Ancient
and modern harbours-Export trade-Soap manufactory-
Oil mill-The camel's revenge-Administration of justice—
Prisoners-The Kaïd's seal, and the forgery-The "Saheb-
el-taba"-Date palm-Monasteer-Mahometan sabbath —
Tunny fishery-Lambtah-Incaltah-Cultivation of the
olive-Longevity of the olive-Ruins of Thapsus-Arrival
at Mahadeah
66
CHAPTER V.
Our reception by Hadji Sidi Mohamed Hamsa-Mahadeah-
Its history-Spanish fortifications-Ancient harbour-Cis-
terns-Tombs-Saracenic ruin-Xuruckseff-Friendly re-
ception-Sketching and taking portraits-The evil eye---
Amulets-Questions and answers-Early start-The curse
of blood-The Smalah of the Kaïd of Sfax-Jellooli-
Arab Women-Rouga-Long ride-Jebiniana-Uncom-
fortable night.
89
CHAPTER VI.
Inchla―The sand grouse-Sfax-Its trade-Gerbeh-Moor-
ish cookery-The Kaïd's country house-Flowers-Gardens,
and the house tax-Freedom of the inhabitants from
bigotry-Bivouac-An alarm-The Amphitheatre of El
Jem-Ruins of Tysdrus-Saltpetre works-Medical prac-
tice among the Arabs-Arab school-The Hadji's well-
The plain of Kairouan-The Holy City
107
CHAPTER VII.
Kairouan-Its history and sanctity-The prophet's barber-
The Kaiyas of Kairouan-Female fury-The grand mosque
-Its size and magnificence-Miraculous pillars-Sidi Ab-
dallah and Solyman attempt the passage-Population and
trade-Fanaticism-Leave Kairouan-Pilgrim - Mirage-
Zouwan
128
CHAPTER VIII.
Zouwan-Its spring and temple-Untried adventure-Sha-
sheahs-New quarters-Ascent of the mountain-Ruins
of Oudena―The great aqueduct-Mahmudiah-Locusts-
Return to Tunis-Plans-Farewell interview with the Bey
-Court of Justice-Ancient and modern costume-" Chat-
tars"-Interior of the Bardo-Young courtiers-The Bey's
stud-Manuba palace-Barracks-Sidi Tolhah-An Arabic
ode-The Kasbah-Powder mills-Public buildings of
Tunis-Statistics of the Regency-The Bey-Abolition of
slavery-Government
142
CHAPTER IX.
Departure from Tunis-Changes in our party-Aqueduct—
The Majerdah-Tuburba-Theological dispute-Cloth-
mill-Medjaz el Bab-The banks of the Majerdah-Locusts
an omen of war-Testoor-The meeting of friends-Ruins
of Tounga-Tubersook-Christian inscription-Ruins of
Dugga-Magnificent temple-The Kaïd of Tubersook 172
CHAPTER X.
Ejah-Sidi Abder Rubbu-Mausoleum-Inhospitable recep-
tion at Keff-Antiquities-Relics of Christianity-A tra-
veller's duty-Situation of Keff-Storks-A Moorish custom
-Departure from Keff-The Milleg-Douar of the Wur-
gahs-Lions-Bad weather-Nocturnal annoyances—Arab
dogs-Gossiping-Our medical practice-Excessive hospi-
tality of the Sheick-Cross the frontier-Douar of the
Risghis-Extensive view-The valley of the Seybouse—
Return to Bôna
190
CHAPTER XI.
Bôna-The Opera in Africa-Forest of the Djebel Edough—
Fricandeau de lion-Departure from Bôna - Dréan -
Mez-meia-Hammam Berda-Guelma-Its ruins and anti-
quities-Valley of the Alligha-Hammam Meskhoutin—
Hot springs-High temperature-Efficacy of the waters
-Roman baths and antiquities-Analysis-Curious cavern
-Latin inscriptions-Arrival at Constantine
215