to be well acquainted with Dr. Livingstone, rather had the effect of damping my ardor for the search, than adding vigor to it. I felt very much depressed, and would willingly have resigned my commission; but then the order was, "Go AND FIND LIVINGSTONE." Besides, I did not suppose, though I had so readily consented to search for the Doctor, that the path to Central Africa was strewn with roses. What though I. were rebuked, as an impertinent interloper in the domain of Discovery, as a meddler in things that concerned not myself, as one whose absence would be far more acceptable to him than my presence-had I not been commanded to find him? Well, find him I would, if he were above ground; if not, then I would bring what concerned people to know, and keep.

Dr. Kirk very kindly promised to give all the assistance in his power, and whatever experience he possessed he was willing, he said, to give me its full benefit. But I cannot recollect, neither do I find a trace of it in my journal, that he assisted me in any way. Of course, he was not aware that my instructions were to hunt up Dr. Livingstone, otherwise Dr. Kirk, I have no doubt, would have made good his word. He believed I was about to ascend the Rufiji River to its source. But what newspaper would despatch a "special" to discover the sources of an insignificant river like the Rufiji?

The climate of Zanzibar is not the most agreeable in the world. I have heard Americans and Europeans condemn it most heartily. I have also seen nearly onehalf of the white colony laid up in one day from sickness. A noxious malaria is exhaled from the shallow inlet of Malagash, and the undrained filth, the garbage, offal, dead mollusks, dead pariah dogs, dead cats, all

species of carrion, remains of men and beasts unburied, assist to make Zanzibar a most unhealthy city; and, considering that it ought to be a most healthy city, nature having. pointed out to man the means, and having assisted him so far, it is most wonderful that the ruling prince does not obey the dictates of reason. The bay of Zanzibar is in the form of a crescent, and on the south-western horn of it is built the city. On the east the city is bounded almost entirely by the Malagash Lagoon, an inlet of the sea. It penetrates to at least two hundred and fifty yards of the sea behind or south of Shangani Point. Were these two hundred and fifty yards cut through by a ten foot ditch, and the inlet deepened slightly, Zanzibar city would become an island of itself, and what wonders would it not effect as to health and salubrity! I have never heard this suggestion made, but it struck me that the foreign consuls resident at Zanzibar might suggest this work to the sultan, and so get the credit of having made the city as healthy a place to live in as any near the equator. But apropos of this, I remember what Capt. Webb, the American Consul, told me on my first arrival, when I expressed to him my wonder at the apathy and inertness of men born with the indomitable energy which characterizes Europeans and Americans, of men imbued with the progressive and stirring instincts of the white people, who yet allow themselves to dwindle into pallid phantoms of their kind, into hypochondriacal invalids, into hopeless believers in the deadliness of the climate, with hardly a trace of that daring and invincible spirit which rules the world.

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Oh," said Capt. Webb, "it is all very well for you to talk about energy and all that kind of thing, but I assure you that a residence of four or five years on this

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island, among such people as are here, would make you feel that it was a hopeless task to resist the influence of the example by which the most energetic spirits are subdued, and to which they must submit in time, sooner or later. We were all terribly energetic when we first came here, and struggled bravely to make things go on as we were accustomed to have them at home, but we have found that we were knocking our heads against granite walls to no purpose whatever. These fellows the Arabs, the Banyans, and the Hindis, you can't make them go faster by ever so much scolding and praying, and in a very short time you see the folly of fighting against the unconquerable. Be patient, and don't fret, that is my advice, or you won't live long here."

There were three or four intensely busy men, though, at Zanzibar, who were out at all hours of the day. I know one, an American; I fancy I hear the quick pit-pat of his feet on the pavement beneath the Consulate, his cheery voice ringing the salutation, "Yambo!" to every one he met; and he had lived at Zanzibar twelve years.

I know another, one of the sturdiest of Scotchmen, a most pleasant-mannered and unaffected man, sincere in whatever he did or said, who has lived at Zanzibar several years, subject to the infructuosities of the business he has been engaged in, as well as to the calor and ennui of the climate, who yet presents as formidable a front as ever to the apathetic native of Zanzibar. man can charge Capt. H. C. Fraser, formerly of the Indian Navy, with being apathetic, whatever else malice may suggest.

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I might with ease give evidence of the industry of others, but they are all my friends, and they are all good. The American, English, Germans, and French

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residents have ever treated me with a courtesy and kindness I am not disposed to forget. Taken as a body, it would be hard to find a more generous or hospitable colony of white men in any part of the world.

In a great tall house with a certain grandeur of vastness about it, topped with the queerest of all steeples, situated on Shangani Point, Bishop Tozer, his disciples, his choristers and his flock, have found excellent quarters. The Bishop, who styles himself" Missionary Bishop of Central Africa," is one of the politest men I ever knew. I believe he is called the "fighting parson "-a plagiaristic appellation when bestowed on him, since Dr. Livingstone first received it from the Duke of Wellington. Bishop Tozer, however, is said to have fought an insolent rowdy, on his way to church; and after having punished him at a boxing-match, offered to punish his companions one after another in the same way, which offer was refused. This feat of pugilism by Bishop Tozer converted these wolves into lambs, and won for him the title of Bishop, and the happy sinecure he holds.

The Bishop in his crimson robe, and with his sacerdotal title "Missionary Bishop of Central Africa" (why he should be so named I cannot conceive), has reached the bourne of aspiring priesthood, and is consequently ineffably happy. But this High Church (very High Church indeed) prelate in his crimson robe of office, and in the queerest of all head-dresses, seen stalking through the streets of Zanzibar, or haggling over the price of a tin-pot at a tinker's stall, is the most ridiculous sight I have seen anywhere outside of a clown's show. I as a white man solemnly protest against the absurdity. A similar picture to the Bishop, in his priestly robes and a paper cap, in a tinker's stall, is the King of Dahomey in a European hat with his body naked, promenading

pompously about in this exquisite full dress. Whatever the Bishop in his blissful innocence may think of the effect which it produces in the minds of the heathen, I can inform him, that to the Arabs and Wangwana who have settled in Unyanyembe he is only an object of supreme ridicule; and also, that most of his pale-faced brothers entertain something of the same opinion.

Poor, dear Bishop Tozer! I would fain love and admire thee, were it not for this exhibition of extreme High-Churchism in a place like Zanzibar!

The French missionaries have proceeded actively to work in a true practical spirit. They not only endeavour to instil into the minds of their numerous converts the principles of religion, but also to educate them in the business of life. They teach their young disciples various useful trades; they produce agriculturists, carpenters, blacksmiths, boat-builders, and mechanical engineers among them. Their various departments of instruction have able, efficient, and laborious teachers. Their shops at Zanzibar form one of the sights which a stranger would wish to see. At Bagamoyo, on the mainland, their mission station is on an extensive scale. The estate adjoining the mission station, cultivated by their young pupils, is a model of industry; and the products serve to more than supply the institution with all the necessaries of life. The converts and pupils they are educating exceed more than two hundred.