MISSIONARY TOUR TO UPPER EGYPT.

ON the 30th of January, 1844, the Rev. W. Krusé, accompanied by Mrs. Krusé, commenced a Missionary Tour to upper Egypt, by embarking in a boat on the Nile.

For about three weeks, nothing of a remarkable character occurred. The scenery through which they passed is thus described :

Feb. 15-On the 13th we passed Siout, and soon afterwards the wind abated. We have since been obliged to proceed by towing. The people whom we now meet in our walks begin to be of a darker colour: they have a wild appearance; but when addressed they manifest much civility. The country appears to be well cultivated; we see many villages on both sides of the river; and here and there flocks of sheep and goats together, tended sometimes by children, but more frequently by the shepherd with his staff. Then again large droves of buffaloes and camels, hundreds of wild geese, some pelicans, innumerable pigeons, the crows and eagles about the mountains, which are steep and lofty, render the scenery truly interesting. Toward evening we arrived opposite Er Reineh, in the neighbourhood of which our Captain did not feel quite secure, and thought of pushing off to an uninhabited island. A great many people came from a fair in another village, and among them was the Sheikh of Er Reineh, who asked permission to come into our boat and cross over to the other side: he would then, he said protect us near his village, and send us two watchmen for the night. This promise he faithfully kept.'

Assouan, the first town of the district which is chiefly inhabited by the Coptic Christians, was the place where Mr. Krusé's labours were to commence. Here they arrived on the 21st; and Mr. Krusé writes

lies living here; but they have neither Church nor Priest. They are visited once or twice a year by a Priest from Esneh or some other place thereabout; and on Easter Day as many as can afford to leave go to Edfou to attend the Church Service there. When our visitors heard who I was, and the object of our visit, they greatly rejoiced; and begged me to use my influence at Cairo to obtain for them permission to build a Church. One of our visitorsMuallem Chaleel-was the principal man of the Copts here: he thought permission for building a Church might now easily be obtained, as the Pasha had allowed the building of a Church at Khartoom, where, two years ago, many clerks in the service of the Government were sent; and this year the Coptic Patriarch had provided them with a Bishop and two Priests. Muallem Chaleel further informed me, that, in December last, two Missionaries of the Propaganda passed Assouan on their way to Khartoom in order to settle

there. He remarked, "What can they do there? the Copts do not understand Latin."

'Feb. 22, 1844-The Copts being engaged in their offices, we could not see them till after their daily work was over. We therefore took the opportunity to visit the cataract. Our way led over the ancient Syene, a true picture of the mutability of all human things, and an exact fulfilment of the prophecy in Ezek. xxix, 10. We next passed over the cemetry of the ancient town, filled with grave-stones, covered with Arabic inscriptions. We next crossed a wide sandy plain, embosomed, as it were, in immense masses of granite rocks. As far as the eye could reach, these rocks met the view; and as we approached the river, many little hamlets lay scattered between. The sight was at once sublime and solemn. We could only gaze with awe upon these mighty works of nature, and from them our hearts turned upward to the Author and Finisher of all. At the cataract it seems that

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disappointment is the universal feeling the whole scene which presents itself is rock upon rock, between which the river in several places rolls down. In vain did we look around, hoping to see some mighty fall. However, the scene delighted us, and we stood gazing with admiration upon the wild landscape, surrounded by nearly the whole populace of the adjacent village. We tried to speak to them but the Arabic language seemed wholly unintelligible: they knew only one word-" Backsheesh" (a present): this they all understood. Poor people! We thought, When will the light of the Gospel shine again into this dark region?

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Feb. 23-I rose early this morning, intending to take a walk on shore; but before our usual morning devotions were over, several Christians were anxious to see me. After some profitable conversation, and supplying them with the Word of God, I accompanied them to their School, where I found Muallem Chaleel, and several respectable Copts, already assembled and waiting to receive me. The Teacher appeared to be tolerably intelligentnot blind, as is generally the case. There were fifteen boys in the School. They had no books; but were engaged in reading and committing to memory passages from the Psalms, which had been written by the Master on tin plates. I questioned the boys upon what they were learning; but found them very ignorant. After having shown the Teacher how he might improve the minds of his pupils by questioning them, and impressing on them the meaning of what they read, I addressed the boys, who attentively listened; and the Christians who were assembled manifested not less attention. They repeatedly expressed their approbation; and when I was leaving, they remarked, "This has been a blessed season." Upon my return to the vessel I sent a supply of books for the use of the School.

"The rest of the day was taken up in unpacking and distributing Books and Tracts, and seldom have we witnessed such a scene. The eager desire for books was very great: not only Christians, but even Mahomedans, were anxious to possess them. The general cry was, "Give me but one; and when it was obtained, it

was devoutly kissed, secured in the folds of their robes, and joyfully carried away. One man, who, from his wearing a green turban, was known as a descendant of their prophet, made his appearance from among the crowd, and begged earnestly for a book; and when he was told that they were Christian books, he determinately said, I can read: give me but one." The Copts being disengaged, to-day being Friday, many came to our boat, and thus I had many opportunities to speak to them on the one thing needful.

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'In the evening we went on shore for a walk; and as we passed, we saw a group of Christians sitting on the ground, and eagerly conversing. I joined them, and endeavoured to impress on their minds the necessity of reading and studying the Word of God; and for this purpose urged them to assemble, as often as they could, at the house of Muallem Chaleel, to whom I had sent a good supply of the Holy Scriptures, for the use of their Meeting. Before they would let me go, one of them very earnestly begged for a copy of the New Testament for his son. On my remarking to him that I had already distributed many, and that I must keep some for other places, they all, with one voice, pleaded for him, saying, "We are here, as it were, in a desert, and not within reach of these means, as others are towards Cairo." It is indeed gratifying to witness these signs of thirst for the Word of God.

Feb. 24,-On our return to the boat I met some Christians, with whom I had some profitable conversation on Religion. During the rest of the morning our boat was beset by crowds, who were desirous of obtaining books. We found it impossible to supply them all; but distributed a large number of Tracts.

'In the afternoon we crossed over to the Island of Elephantina, called, by the Natives, the Island of Assouan; but even here the people followed. It was at once a painful yet gratifying sight to see the poor creatures come over in boats to supplicate for more books. A Mahomedan Schoolmaster came with several of his scholars, desiring books; and when I told him that they were for the Christians, he said, "Oh give me but a few for my boys, and I will teach them all their contents." Upon receiving a

small supply he retired, and, seated on the sandy shore, instantly set about reading to his eager pupils. The throng of applicants for books still increasing, many, who could not get near enough to me, held up their hands to Mrs. Krusé, as if praying, calling to her, "Oh, lady, give me a book." Having distributed many more Scriptures and Tracts than we had at first calculated for this place, we tried to elude the demands, by going on shore to take a walk; but were obliged soon to return to our boat, while fresh applications were made.

'Toward evening we quitted Assouan, with grateful hearts that the Lord had thus far prospered our journey. We confidently hope and pray that a blessing will attend this visit.

'Great changes have taken place in Egypt during the last few years. I was informed, at Assouan, that they had never seen so many travellers come up as this year; they had counted forty boats. We saw two steamers there: one had come, for the first time, with some gentlemen and Consuls from Cairo to visit the antiquities: and the other was one of the Pasha's steamers, which had brought up a messenger, who had gone to Khartoom, and was waiting here for his return. On our passing the Pasha's steamer, part of the crew came off in a small boat and begged for some books. I had previously sent some to the Captain, at his request. They were supplied, and returned joyfully to their vessel. On inquiry, I was informed that the inhabitants of Assouan are computed at 1500 families, who are all Mahomedans, with the exception of the forty Coptic families.

Feb. 25, Lord's Day-This was a calm and quiet day, and was particularly felt to be so after the bustle and toils of the last three days. We greatly enjoyed Divine Service by ourselves in our little cabin, and experienced the blessing of the Lord. In a country where we daily see our fellow-creatures without the true consolations of the Gospel, we cannot be sufficiently thankful for the Means of Grace given unto us. begin to find the heat oppressive: the thermometer has been 90° to-day.

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'Feb. 26-During the night we arrived at Edfou. Before we breakfasted, a Copt, who had been watching the river, as he said, for the last two days, came to our boat. He had

been apprised of our intended visit by the English Clergyman with whom we had been in company. Having learned from him that the Christians here-about fifteen families-have now a Church and School, I accompanied him to visit the Priest, who freely answered my inquiries respecting his Church. During our conversation, several Christians assembled; and when I expressed my wish to see the School, the whole party accompanied me thither. I found 14 Schofars: the only book in the School was a half torn Manuscript Arabic Psalter, tied together with a bit of twine; and from this the master instructed the boys. I put several questions to them; but they were unable to answer. I then spoke to them on the love of Christ, and exhorted them to love Him who first loved us. I left with them a good supply of Schoolbooks and Tracts, much to the satisfaction of both the Priest and the boys.

'On returning to the boat, the Priest and almost all the Copts in the place accompanied me. I gave to each a book and some tracts; and it was a pleasing sight to see them seated on the deck eagerly perusing the contents of their valued gift.

'In the afternoon the Priest called again, and some of his people with him. We all went on shore, where, seated on the sandy soil, we entered into a friendly conversation on true repentance and faith in Christ. They assented to what I said, and appeared to be much pleased with the explanation of several passages of Scripture. When I gave to the Priest a book-On Preaching-a man asked what that meant; and another answered, "The Priest preaches when he reads the Gospel in Church."

'After this I went with them to call upon Muallem Bashoor, the principal man in the place: his son, Muallem Henna, recognised me, and expressed his delight in meeting me again under his own roof. He was in Caïro some years ago; when he saw our Schools, and received the Holy Scriptures and Tracts from me. These, he said, were eagerly taken from him by his relations; and the father remarked that he had preserved the whole Bible in his family: he, however, could no longer see to read it, the print being too small. I offered him a Testament of a larger print, with which he was highly de

lighted. Inquiries were made about our work in Cairo ; and all the Christians who were present listened attentively to what I told them, and seemed to be glad to hear of the progress which the Bible and the Missionary Cause is now making in the world. I further explained to them the nature of true Religion, supported by passages of Scripture, which I read to them; and it proved a profitable meeting. They begged me to remain for the night, and promised to send donkeys for us in the morning, that we might attend their Church. When I bade them good night, they used their general expression of pleasure, "This has been a blessed day."

Feb, 27-This morning we went, according to appointment, to the Church. Our ride, about two miles, was at once exhilarating and delightful. Upon reaching the Church we were kindly greeted by the Priest and people waiting outside for us. We entered, and Service commenced. Alas! how painful it is to witness their superstition! These poor people, who, in many respects, appear to be amiable, well-intentioned men, grasp at the shadow, while the substance is held out to them without money and without price. Their Service was in Coptic, which neither of us understood, nor did the people : the Gospel was read in Arabic, to which the people listened with great attention. I made this observation to the Priest, after the Service was over, and showed him how much more profitable it would be for the people, if the Service were conducted in a language which they understood. The Priest admitted the truth of my remark; but manifestly avoided entering into further discussion upon the subject: he evaded it, as is usually the case, by saying, "We translate into Arabic what we read in Coptic." I am, however, persuaded, that few of the Priests understand that language themselves. The body of the Church is divided into three compartments. The inner part contains four recesses, called "Haykal," and in one or other of these the Priest officiates: each of these places contains an altar, the principal of which is dedicated to the Virgin Mary: in front of these is the part appropriated for the deacons and respectable people. We were

surprised to find that Mrs. Krusé was allowed to enter this part of the Church as females are never admitted there, it evinced the great respect entertained for us by the Priest and people. The next compartment is for men in general; and the last, separated by a closely-latticed screen, is appropriated to females only. Behind this, there is a small place containing the baptismal font, where the children are immersed they always use cold water from the well.

After Service the Priest and the people accompanied us over the ruins of the ancient Convent: on the top of the mountain they showed us some caves, where, in the times of persecution, between the third and fifth centuries, the followers of our dear Redeemer took refuge. These caves brought to our minds the passage in Hebrews xi. 37, 38. There were also pointed out to us the sepulchres of those Primitive Christians, hewn out of the solid rock, and a large stone rolled against the entrance, exemplifying Mark xv. 46, and Matt. xxviii. 60. The Priest told us that most of these tombs over which we were walking contained the remains of the monks, who in former cen-turies inhabited the Convent; there were, at one time, about 600 monks living together. In coming down we had a full view of the outside of the newly-repaired Church: it presents a singular appearance, having sixteen small cupolas, forming a square.

'In the afternoon the Priest and some of his flock came to pay us the farewell visit. I had again an interesting conversation with them on prayer, and the only Mediator, Jesus Christ-1 Tim. ii. 5. 1 John ii. 1. I again pressed upon the Priest the necessity of his studying the Holy Scriptures, and teaching his people accordingly. They seemed quite willing to listen on parting, the Priest made a pleasing remark: "We are of different nations, and differ in external observances; but we have the same God, and are united in the same bonds of love and faith in our Redeemer, the Saviour of mankind." We leave them with a humble hope that our visit may prove a blessing to them, and that the Scriptures and Tracts here distributed may be as seed sown in good ground bringing forth fruit unto eternal life.'-Missionary Register.