ther place. This tradition is not uniform. Some hold that no woman may pass, and others that none may pass but a Macleod.

Among other guests which the hospitality of Dunvegan brought to the table, a visit was paid by the Laird and Lady of a small island south of Sky, of which the proper name is Muack, which signifies. Swine.

It is commonly called Muck, which the proprietor not liking, has endeavoured, without effect, to change to Monk. It is usual to call gentlemen in Scotland by the name of their possessions, as Raasay, Bernera, Loch Buy; a practice necessary in countries inhabited by clans, where all that live in the same territory have one name, and must be therefore discriminated by some addition. This gentleman, whose name, I think, is Maclean, should be regularly cal led Muck; but the appellation, which he thinks to be too coarse for his island, he would like still less for himself, and he is therefore addressed by the title of, Isle of Muck.

This little island, however it be named, is of considerable value. It is two English. miles long, and three quarters of a mile broad, and consequently contains only nine

J

1

hundred and sixty English acres. It is
chiefly arable. Half of this little domini
on, the Laird retains in his own hand, and
on the other half lived one hundred and
sixty persons, who pay their rent by expo-
sed corn.
What rent they pay, we were
not told, and could not decently enquire.

The Laird having all his people under his immediate view, seems to be very atten⚫ tive to their happiness. The devastation of the small-pox, when it visits places where it comes seldom, is well known. He has disarmed it of its terror at Muack, by inoculating eighty of its people. The expence Was two shillings and six-pence ahead. Many trades they cannot have among them, but upon occasion he fetches a smith from the Isle of Egg, and has a tailor from the main land, six times a-year. This island well deserved to be seen, but the Laird's absence left us no opportunity.

Every inhabited island has its appendant and subordinate islets. Muck, however small, has yet other smaller about it, onè of which has only ground sufficient to af ford pasture for there wethers

At Dunvegan I had tasted lotus, and was in danger of forgetting that I was ever to depart, till Mr Boswell sagely reproach

ed me with my sluggishness and softness. I had no very torcible defence to make; and we agreed to pursue our journey. Macleod accompanied us to Ulinish, where we were entertained by the sheriff of the island.

ULINISH.

MR Macqueen travelled with us, and directed our attention to all that was worthy of observation. With him we went to see an ancient building, called a dun or borough. It was a circular enclosure, about forty-two feet in diameter, walled round with loose stones, perhaps to the height of nine feet. The walls are very thick, diminishing a little towards the top, and though in these countries. stone is not brought far, must have been raised with much labour. Within the great circle were several smaller rounds of walls, which formed distinct apartments. Its date and its use are unknown. Some suppose it the original seat of the chiefs of the Macleods. Mr Macqueen thought it a Danish fort.

The entrance is covered with flat stones, and is narrow, because it was necessary L

that the stones which lie over it, should reach from one wall to the other, yet, strait as the passage is, they seem heavier than could have been placed where they now lie, by the naked strength of as many men as might stand about them. They were probably raised by putting long pieces of wood under them, to which the action of a long line of lifters might be applied. Savages in all countries, have patience proportionate to their unskilfulness, and are content to attain their end by very tedious methods.

If it was ever roofed, it might once have been a dwelling, but as there is no provision for water, it could not have been a fortress. In Sky, as in every other place, there is an ambition of exalting whatever has survived memory, to some important use, and referring it to very remote ages. I am inclined to suspect, that in lawless times, when the inhabitants of every mountain stole the cattle of their neighbour, these inclosures were used to secure the herds and flocks in the night. When they were driven within the walls, they might be easily watched, and defended as long as could be needful; for the robbers durst not wait till the injured clan should find them in the morning,

The interior enclosures, if the whole building were once a house, were the chambers of the chief inhabitants. If it was a place of security for cattle, they were = propably the shelters of the keepers.

From the Dun we were conducted to another place of security, a cave carried a great way under ground, which had been discovered by digging after a fox. These caves, of which many have been found, and many probably remain concealed, are formed, I believe, commonly by taking advantage of a hollow, where banks or rocks rise on either side. If no such place can be found, the ground must be cut away. The walls are made by piling stones against the earth, on either side. It is then roofed by large stones laid across the cavern, which therefore cannot be wide. Over the roof, turfs were placed, and grass was suf fered to grow; and the mouth was concealed by bushes, or some other cover.

These caves were represented to us as the cabins of the first rude inhabitants, of which, however, I am by no means persuaded. This was so low, that no man could stand upright in it. By their con struction they are all so narrow, that two can never pass along them together, and

A