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construction; but that of the appliqued stoinacher, Cottage frout and clasped in the antique form, are most remarkable for their becoming and attractive effect. The long sleeve of lace or other transparent materials with a short satin under sleeve, or full top, corresponding with the robe, still holds its place in full dress; and although the long train is at present but partially adopted, yet every lady has her round robe for parties, made to lie about a quarter of a yard on the carpet These robes are now considered most appropriate and elegant when formed of superfine embroi dered cloth, or velvet; but sarsnets are nevertheless allowed to have a place amidst a fashionable selection Muslius also of morone, amber, or rose colour, worn over white sarsnet or satin, with correspondent long sieve, or one of lace, with appliqued stomacher, trimmed with a narrow rich vandyke edging, and worn with a white satin Spanish kat, is a most tasteful and beautiful style of costume.

Morning robes are formed either in simple French wraps, sitting close to the form, or in round gowns of plain muslin or cambric, with high waist of imperial kootted muslin, buttoned down the back, and worn with a high vandyke ruff of muslin or lace, fastened in front of the throat with a brooch of jewellery There is an infinite aud splendid variety in the article of trinkets since our last commuui

cation; and the taste and ingenuity displayed in the construction of these ornaments cannot be surpassed. They are too numerous to particularise; but we take occasion here to re mark tha the most elegant clasps for the cestus are now exhibited at the brilliant marts, of fashion-they are en-suite with the brooch, and are alternately of diamonds, pearl, cut steel, gold, or silver. We consider them a most consistent and attractive ornament. Shoes are worn more showy than we have remembered them for some time They are formed of deep winter colours, embroidered at the toes in coloured silks, and in gold, or silver. Nothing, however, can surpass in elegance the white satin slipper, nor any shoe be too plain for common occasions. There is no change worthy of remark in gloves. White French kid invariably belong to full dress. The most fashionable colours for the season are scarlet, purple, bright amber, grass-green, and morone shots.

LETTER ON DRESS,

EXPLANATORY AND DESCRIPTIVE.

London, November 1908.

My dear Mary's last letter brought a sad drawback to that pleasure it would otherwise have conveyed, by acquainting me that she is likely to remain the whole of the winter in Northumberland. Alas! with this sad certainty all my visionary schemes of promised delight are vanished, and I dare no longer hope for that dear social communion, that participat on of my thoughts and amusements I had looked forward to with so much pleasing anticipation. This, I must aliow, is all that was wanting to rend r me perfectly happy; and as the moralists tell us, that worldly happiness complete and without alloy does not belong to our sublunary state, we must endeavour to meet this disappointment with patience; and soften the pain of personal absence by the free interchange of our thoughts through the me

dium of the pen. You know, dear Mary, the fidelity of my nature; I can be amused with numbers-I can love but few; but the. it is with my whole heart, and so individually that nothing but the worthlessness of the object can in any degree remove or shake my regard. Therefore I may sa'ely say, that as I believe you, my dear friend, will never become unworthy, so can I never cease to love you. Dear Mary, you have known me from my childhood-I withhold not from you that there is a love of another kind which has found a place in my bosom; yet hear me declare, that although I am sensible of its influence, I hold friendship far more chastened.-Alas! perhaps less vivid, less delightful but less anxious, more durable, and less selfish; in short, a more celestial sentiment; and therefore it is more true, as some author has advanced-" that rare is true love, but more rare is true friendship." But whither am I rambling? I am soaring on the wings of sentiment and enthusiasm, defining a shadow, analyzing a vision! let me descend from my stilts, let me remember I tread on earth, where men are faithless, women foolish, friendship a bubble, and love a

cheat.

Now then for facts, however trifling. You say that although you are destined to pass the winter in Northumberland, you are expected to be very gay with your balls and supper parties; and beg me to continue to send you accounts of all that is fashionable or elegant for the decoration of your person. How any one can be gay, out of London, at this season of the year, I cannot comprehend; but never

theless I have complied with your request, ex will be seen by the long list of information which accompanies this. I have only to add a few articles which I have just purchased for my own wear, and as you do me the favour t entertain a high opinion of my taste, a descrip tion of them may not be amiss.

Jon, I am sure you will think both chaste and A gant. It is a vest and drapery of white Lossamer net, wrought in small stars of silver, and disposed over a white satin uuler dress, so that as it waves round the orm, it resembles a bright evening atmosphere, shaded by a gentle mist. My hair is thrown into curls, and fastened at the back of my head it is divided on the forehead, and ornamented with a net half handkerchief, bor

ornament is worn straight across the forehead, in the Armenian style; the ends hanging in irregular lengths on each side, the corner gathered towards the left temple, with a small silver coronet in front. With this really beau

ornaments, and there is no colour scen about me save the simple moss-rose which I wear as a bonquet. You-will oblige ine, dear Mary,

First, then, my Siberian mantle is formed of celestial blue Vigonia cloth, with a high round ed cape. It is lined throughout with white sarsuet, and trimmed round with deep blackdered and starred with silver tambour This lace; it sits close to the shoulders and back, and its fullness, which is gathered into the collar in front, is confined at the throat with a sapphire brouch, set in gold. With this mantle I wear an Union helmet, formed of the same materials, and half boots of Ight bluetiful dress, I of course) wear my diamond kid, laced with black cord. My morning dresses possess nothing of novelty beyond those al ready detailed; I must hasten therefore to describe those of more mportance and splen-hy wearing the amber silk shawl which I have dour. I have a light and elegant robe for occasional evening parties, which I think un commonly pretty and seasonable: it is a Grecian freck, of dark morone muslin; I wear mine over white satin, but I really think it has an equally good effect over fine lightly glazed cambric. The bosom of this dress is formed with an antique stomacher of white stin, edged with a narrow Vandyke lace, a short sleeve of the same, with a long ou over it ot French net, confined with armlets and brace Jets of pearl. Round the bottom is a plam satin ribbind, the colour of the dress; and 1 wear with it a white satin Spanish hat, with a simple white willow feather, drooping towards the left side. My slippers are also of white satin; my earrings and necklace of pear's and my gloves of French kid. I do not know that I ever wore a dress which was so universally admired.

This day eek we are engaged to a splendid ball at the Duchess of L-'s. It is given b. her Grace on the anniversary of her eld st son's birth-day. My dress, designed for the occa

here the pleasure of offering for your acceptance. They are both a useful and fashionable article, and are worn either as an elegant wrap, or disposed as a drapery over a plain white dress, for evening parties. I have already told you that they must be adjusted with a light and graceful negligence, and that none but persons of taste can wear them in this style with advantage. With you they will not be abused; and on your plump, yet fawn-like figure, the effect will he most appropriate and pleasing. Adieu! dear girl-write to me soon and often; let me have anecdotes and histories of your rural-swins and sylvan Misses; and I, in return, will give you some account of the dashing beaus and flirting belles of this metropolis: by which you will see that the -ame thing appears quite a different thing in different places:—~

"Men change with manners, manners change with climes," &c.

ADIEU

London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Southampton-street, Strand.

OR,

Bell's

COURT AND FASHIONABLE

MAGAZINE,

FOR DECEMBER, 1808.

EMBELLISHMENTS.

1. An Elegant PORTRAIT of the MOST NOBLE the MARCHIONESS OF EXETER. 2. ORPHEUS SINGING HIS DIVINE POEMS. (Description given in No. 33.) 3. FOUR WHOLE-LENGTH FIGURES in the FASHIONS of the SEASON.

4. Two ORIGINAL DANCES for the Season, by Mr. LANZA.

5. Two elegant and new PATTERNS for NEEDLE-WORK.

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF ILLUS- Origin and progress of amusements in

TRIOUS LADIES.

Marchioness of Exeter......

THE ARTIST.-No. XII.

Life of Peter Paul Rubens......

London........

Love and Vengeance

..... 241

POETRY,

Original and Select.

243

Description of the Plate given in our last.
Number.-Martyrdom of St. Stephen.. 245
Essay on Painting...

PUBLIC AMUSEMENTS.

270

273

278

Venoni; or, The Novice of St. Mark's.... 283

246

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ORIGINAL COMMUNICATIONS.

249

253

255

.. 264

The Double Wedding..

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269 Supplementary Advertisements for the Month.

Tragical effects of jealousy..........
The school of magic......

Alphonsine d'Argennes; or, the victim of

Ambition......

The Stranger...

Anecdote of a Clergyman..

London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Proprietor of the WEEKLY MESSENGER, Southampton-Street,

Strand, January 1, 1809.

THE HALF-YEARLY.

SUPPLEMENTAL NUMBER,

(No. XL.)

Is published this day, and delivered with the regular Number.-We refer to the Second Page of the Cover for the account of its contents.

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