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Engraven for La Belle Assemblee N35 October: 116c8.

FASHIONS

For OCTOBER, 1808.

EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION.

ENGLISH COSTUME.

No. 1-A WALKING DRESS.

A round gown of fine jaconet muslin, with short sleeve, and laced or wrought front; wide double frill of scolloped lace, brought to a point in the centre of the bosom. A village hat of brown chip, tied across the crown with a band of apple-blossom sarsnet, ornamented on the crown with the same, or a short full curled feather. A scarf of Chinese silk, the same colour, with a deep palm-coloured fringe, brought partially across the bust, and otherwise fancifully disposed. A silver filligree, or mocho-stoue necklace.-Limerick gloves, and slippers of palm-coloured kid.

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beading, confined down the front with a row of small buttons in mother-of-pearl, and fastened round the waist with a correspondent cord and tassel pending from the right side. A Spanish mantle, and hat of morone sarsnet, shot with white (or what is commonly called a silver morone), the mantle edged, and the hat ornamented with white cord, or cut velvet. A full frill of reverse plaiting round the throat, confined towards the left shoulder with a suitable cord and tassel. Gloves of pale York-tan, and slippers of tan-coloured kid.

GENERAL REMARKS

ON THE

FASHIONS FOR THE SEASON.

A round robe, with short train, and demi apron of purple, or violet crape, or muslin ; THERE is perhaps no period of the year vandyked at each extremity with point lace, when invention is so much on the stretch to or cut white velvet. A full short sleeve, con- supply the deficiency of a regular standard as fined fancifully with a simple row of pearl. A at the present. Fashion yet allows her votafolded tucker, and long sleeve of Paris net,ries to sport at pleasure; and taste and genius, with a bracelet of fine pearl. A French watch with pearl chain. Minerva bonnet the same as the dress, band and edging of white beads; full tassel in front to correspond. Minerva plume of white feathers. Shoes of white satin, or French kid. Fan of carved ivory.

No. 3.-A BALL DRESS.

A petticoat of fine clear white muslin, figured or plain. A peasaut's jacket of white satin, with short full sleeve, in the Spanish form. The jacket and sleeves trimmed with silver beading, or cord. A Persian cap of Brussels' lace, with a bunch of autumnal flowers in front. A composition brooch, representing the flower called the pheasant's eye. Necklace and earrings of blossom coloured patent pearl. Gloves and shoes of pale blossom-coloured kid.

Na. 4.-OUT-DOOR, OR CARRIAGE COSTUME.

A round robe of white, or pale morone muslin over white cambric; made with long sleeves, and a high collar, edged with lace or No. XXXVI. Fol. V.

at full liberty to exercise their powers of indi vidual choice, afford an animated and agreeable variety; while at the same time they glad ly preserve the fundamental laws of their ae knowledged dictatress and sovereign. In our communications on this subject, we cannot therefore be at a loss for matter; our chief difficulty arising from a desire to select amidst the numerous display, such articles as are most distinguishable for taste and elegance.

The unfavourable weather which has marked some part of the present month, has called forth somewhat earlier than usual the silk pelisse, which, with those of shawl muslin, lined with sarsnet of agreeably contrasted shades, are very well adapted as a shelter from the chills of autumn. These pelisses are usually worn with turbans, or small French poke bonnets, formed of the same material; as also with bonnets of straw, of the complete |cottage form, with bands and tufts of folded sarsuet, or silk handkerchiefs of orange and green, or purple and amber shot. Black French chips of the jockey form, with a small T

scarcely retaining their undulations when exposed to a damp air; and after bathing, the hair (even though sheltered by an appropriate cap) is generally found unyielding and refractory. The Grecian mob, formed entirely of lace, or of alternate muslin and lace heading, rounded, or pointed in the centre of the forehead, with a plaiting of French uet entirely rounded, are usually seen under the Gipsy hat, or straw bonnet, in the morning. They form also an appropriate indoor decoration for the head during the day. Indeed fancy caps of various descriptions are very much in request. Flowers, small half squares of lace, with the corner rounded off, or the hair simply confined with a gold or silver comb, with an occasional Spanish or shepherdess's hat of pale blue satin, are the only distinguishable adop tions for public occasions; and this simple style is conisdered more genteel at this intermediate season than a more showy or splendid decoration. The waist continues its encreased length, and has not yet exceeded that medium we continue to recommend.

bunch of variegated chineaster iu front, displays much welty and animation. Gipsy hats are still seen in the morning ramble, or in the stroll on the sea-beach; but they give place, in point of novelty and comfort, to the palm bonnet, of figured sarsnet, which is edged with a deep lace, and formed so as totally to obscure the countenance, except quite in front. In full dress, coloured crape over white satin, or white with painted borders in fruit, or embroidered in autumnal flowers, are very much esteemed. The Potonese vest, and Turkish robe, are remarkable for grace and elegance in this species of costume. The former is a revived habit and is particularly calculated to display to advantage a tall and graceful figure. The Turkish robe differs little from what has been often exhibited, except that the sleeves (which are large and full) now meet, in the true Eastern style, the bend of the arni in front, and hanging loug, are sloped to a point considerably below the elbow behind; it is also confined with a broad Turkish girdle, fastened in front with three clasps of gold, silver, or jewellery. These robes are chiefly composed of crape, tissue, imperial gauze, or muslin, and variously bordered in gold, silver, chenille, or coloured silks. Dresses of coloured gossamer net, worn over white sarsnet or satin, give a sort of silvery rainbow lustre, and are remark-lutely belong to that species of costume; and able for delicacy and beauty.

Gowns are in a general way worn round, and of a walking length. It would now appear somewhat singular to see a lady walking the streets with a train. In full dress, however, we are glad to see them reviving. They abso

our fair fashionables lose in appearance much grace and dignity without this appropriate and elegant appendage. Gowns of royal purple, grass-green, amber shawl muslin, or twill cambric, are considered very genteel habili

The lace hoods and tippets, as described in our last Number, are an exceedingly elegant article; and so unique in themselves that they never can become offensively general. The Pilgrim's hat and mantle, comprising muchments, and have a lively and somewhat novel simplicity and novelty, and when formed of velvet, or Georgian cloth, must be found a very appropriate, and will doubtless become a very fashionable winter article. The Brazilian coif, and emigrée cloak, with the Minerva hel met, are ornaments of considerable elegance; but are best adapted to the carriage costume.

effect. They are formed in a simple round robe, a walking length, with a large cable cord the colour of the dress laid round the bottom, just above the hem. The sleeve is long, and the back without a seam; in front is an antique stomacher, laced with correspondent cord and buttons. Gold, silver, or pearl ornaments cau only be worn with these very lively and be coming robes. The Queen Catherine's hood and tippet (whose simple elegance has been already described) is never so strikingly becom ing as when worn with these dresses, to which they form so agreeable a contrast.

There is scarce any female who does not occasionally appear in muslin or cambric pelisses: for though shawls and scarfs, negligently and fancifully disposed, and mantles of sursnet bordered with cord, or cut velvet, are variously displayed, yet in the numerous changes to which our climate is subject, and more particu- There is nothing remarkably novel in jewellarly during the spring and autumn, that cover-lery since our last Number; gold brooches in ing which is adapted to one period of the day may possibly be found insufficient or oppressive at another. Pelisses of this description have also a double advantage, as they form a complete and most becoming breakfast wrap, and are put on and off with so much ease.

The hair at watering-places, is usually disposedin bands, and braids. C■:ls (if Яatura!)

elegant devices, and to represent simple flowers, and smail fruit, are ornaments much in re quest: and the large snake, in silver, or gold filligge, with the eyes of diamonds, or different coloured gems, twisted round the hair, with bracelets to correspond, are articles more splendid in effect than pleasing in idea. There is something exceedingly repellent to the fancy

in so base a reptile being allowed to twist its || and beautiful women, the most captivating insidious folds amidst the tresses of a beauti

ful woman. We would recommend to our fair country women ornaments more prepossess ing, and calculated to inspire associations more agreeable than those produced by this Medusian decoration.

The greatest novelty produced for the foot are seen in the Turkish slipper of satin, kid, or silk; it is cut with a square instep or deep scollop, and is trimmed with narrow fringe, or silver binding. In full dress they have a striking, and not inappropriate effect. Walking shoes are invariably made high, and cut so as to confine the ankle with a strap and button. Half boots are almost entirely exploded; our females have doubtless discovered, that the finest turned foot and ankle is disfigured by them. They were never calculated but for the sea-beach, or country walk..

The glove is woru above the elbow, with the short sleeve. The most fashionable colours for the present season are shades of purple, green, bright amber, palm, and rose-colour.

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VERY well, Matilda, it is all mighty well! much good may all your fine sex-vicws do you! Your picturesque scenery, your old sublime castles your enchanting cottages and parks, and the Eine seats of the wealthy. Much good, I say, may they all do you! for my part, I would rather join a social party within doors than accompany you in all your musings without. The pleasures of imagination are too visionary for me, and those of contemplation too sombre: *So if that in shades, I'm destin'd to dwell, "Oh! give me the sweet shady side of Pall

Mati!"

My dear creature! while you have been wearing out your shoes scrambling amongst the rude and picturesque beauties of your undercliff, tearing your muslia robes with the eharming fret-work, and stumbling against majestic pieces of huge rock, I have been no less actively (though differently) engaged. The other night I was at the Prince's ball, and wore out my shoes dancing with the most sublime Duke of I tore my muslin robe, it is true, but then it was with the beautiful fretwork which composed the hilt of his sword. Like you also, I often ramble, but then it is on the gay Steine, where I meet the most elegant

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and fashionable men. Ah! dear Matilda! ä I stumble, depend upon it, it will not not be against huge pieces of rock. Having thus, you see, compared notes, now tell me, my dear friend, which of our notions are the most sublime? You love inanimate, and i love animated nature. And variety and pleasure, dear Matilda (whether you will believe it o not), directs your plans as much as mine. I acknowledge that I love to surprise the maltitude; but tell me, do not you love to astonish the village?-Here, it is trae, endeavour te eclipse all the wives, widows, and Missce who enter the lists of celebrity and fashion* and I assure you, I teaze them not a little by the taste and variety I take care to display Yet I am sure you will give me credit for not running in debt with my milliner, therefore I am not so unjustifiable as those who do. You know that malicions little S, whosays goodnatured things of no one, and often very illnatured things of your humble servant.→ Well, she sported uncommonly gracious with me at Lady T's ball last week. I began to look at myself, fearing there was something amiss in my appearance. The next morning the cause was explained. She sent to borrow my Rew Polonese robe, or if I would have the goodaess to send her the name of my dress-maker. I dislike the insidious puss, and am deter», mined to punish her whenever it is in my power. So I sent my compliments, and that my robe was in the hands of my maid, who was making some alterations on it; that I was my own dress-maker, er at least desiguor, and that my name was at her service! Some few nights after I met this yellow and green lady at the concert-room; she scarcely spoke, and Louisa D told me, that she said I was a most vain and expensive woman; that any one might dress well who bought new clothes every day.—“ I cannot think," she added || significantly, "how she does it!"-Langh with me a litte, dear Matilda, at the wain spite of this woman of the sickly soul, and then I will proceed and give you a description of this really elegant and envied costume; for I do not think that either you or I are old enough to remember when garbs very similar to these were worn by our mothers. The petticoat is composed of a pea-green silver tissue, made a walking length. The vest, or Polonese, is formed of the same materials, and abeat the length of a short curricle dress, but different in construction. It is rounded at the sides, and hanging loose, is gradually sloped to a poiut at the centre of the bosom, where it is confined with a small roset brooch of diamonds.

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to attract by simplicty and neatness, than by | singularity and show, and tell me that you are soon to exhibit at a splendid ball, I have ordered you for that occasion, a simple frock of white gossamer net, with short Spanish sleeves. The bottom and other extremities to

The andey-waist is of white satin, with an antique stomacher, ornamented with silver buttons and eord. It has a short hanging sleere, not unlike those which are now scen attached to the Turkish robe, but shorter, and not so full. Round the petticoat, and at the edge of the vest, is a narrow border of the ivy-be ornamented with the roset trimming in floss Jeaf in shaded green chenille. With this dress silk; and the whole to be worn over a pliant I sometimes wear a small Spanish hat of white satin slip. Your bosom will require no other Batin, with silver Trafalgar binding; button shading than the tucker of antique scolloped and loop to correspond; and a white willow lace, which will be attached to the dress. A feather, drooping towards the left side. At small cluster of hyacinths, or variegated roses, ethers I dispose my hair in light irregular blended with, and apparently fastening the curls, and coufine it with a rich filligree comb | hair on the crown of your head; your brooch of silver. But what do you think of the of the pheasant's eye, and raby ornaments, whimsicality of Lady Barbary -? She will make you killingly elegant. I shall reserve absolutely appeared at the race ball in a robę a description of the Pilgrim's hat and cloak of white Italian gauze, the petticoat and dra- for my next. They are, I think, rather preperies ornamented with borders of the natural maturely introduced. But I wust not forget to Porsicaria. I assure you it had a most anitell you that the high gown buttoned, or laced nrated and pretty effect; and the flowers re- up the back, is become so very general, that tained their freshness tolerably well. This they are no longer seen on genteel women. Insingular costume answered the end for which deed, the round gored wrap, and stomacher it was doubtless intended, for you know her fronts, with lace, or wrought shirts, are cou ladyship loves dearly to attract, and every sidered more fashionable. The collars of these ye as she entered was fixed upon her. She latter articles are now cut so as to sit to the received a compliment from the P on the shape of the chin, and edged with full plaitanique elegance of her taste, and many à fair ings of net. Sometimes a deep and full frill of bosom swelled with envy as this noble per- scolloped lace, brought to a termination in souage took with easy grace a sprig from her front of the throat, where it is fastened with a drapery, and placed it in the button-hole of brooch, supplies the place of the collar. bis coat. I concluded the next ball would Brooches representing the flower called forgetexhibit a perfect May-day gala, and that no- me not, and the veronica, are the only new arthing would be seen but splendid bouquets, ticles worthy of remark in jewellery. Adieu ! garlands, wreaths, and chaplets; but as I am dear Matilda !---Concluding that you are as too proud to turn copyist, and always avoid to tired of reading as I am with scribbling-I *ppear in the livery of the multitude, I de- shall only add, that I am now and ever your signed and wore the Polonese robe already faithful described. But as you, my friend, love rather

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MARGARETTA.

London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Southampton-street, Strand.

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