important changes, and that the tide is running in that direction. Who can observe the signs of the times with indifference? As then a child may puzzle a philosopher, so may an individual gifted with common sense and ordinary powers of observation let fall a hint which abler and more experienced persons may turn to advantage. I have resided at Suédiah three years, and (D.v.) shall return to it. I know it well, and the character of its people, and it has always struck me that if it be really an object of policy to sustain the Turks and uphold the integrity of the Ottoman empire; and, as seems now to be the case, to prevent the aggression of others, means should be taken to strengthen this very important district.

In Syria the merchants are often put to inconvenience for want of the floating medium. There is little coin because there are not enough people to cultivate the soil; and large districts lie dormant which might easily be made to bring forth a hundred fold. There are mines too, but they are not worked, and no encouragement is given to labour. Just so it was formerly in Egypt, but what a change took place in that country when Mohamed Ali encouraged European settlers! Why does not the Sultan imitate his example in regard to Syria and Asia Minor. Redschid Pacha is an enlightened man it is said, and if the subject were properly represented to him in private, as means of giving stability to the empire, surely he would see the advantage of it, and a firman would be granted to permit Europeans to purchase and hold land and other property in their own names, cultivate the soil and establish factories, paying to the Porte, the same taxes and dues as the Rayahs or natives, as in fact they do now, viz.; a tenth part of all the produce of their estates either in kind or money, as they prefer. Those who are settled in Syria do not complain of any want of protection, as far as the Turks are concerned; but as they are not allowed to purchase property in their own names, comparatively few venture to invest capital. But were it otherwise, and it were known that there was a mutual understanding and treaty between the Porte and their own government, confidence would be established, and numbers would immediately flock thither.

The hands of the Porte would thereby be strengthened, for large tracts of land now lying waste would be thrown into cultivation, the exports and imports would increase, and a large revenue would flow into their coffers.

But all property held by Europeans should be registered at their respective consulates, and efficient means should be determined on for the settlement of disputes without delay; and also for the prevention of bribery.

If I mistake not, it is for the promotion of commerce as well as the safety of our ships, that surveys are taken of the coasts and ports of the Levant. Surely then it is legitimate in us to encourage our countrymen to settle where they can do so with advantage to themselves and the government of the land they select; especially when, as in the present case, the said government may be said to depend upon the active cooperation of England for its existence, and ought to increase her resources by all the means in her power: how else is she to repel the aggressions of her enemies and maintain her position as a nation?

Within a few years Beyrout and Alexandria have become prosperous, entirely in consequence of European enterprize. Cilivization is progressing, thanks to the powerful influence of steam, which induces many to lay aside their ancient prejudices. But Turks have not yet learned to encourage their benefactors to settle amongst them because they are of a different religion, otherwise the means would speedily be found for restoring many of their ancient ports in Asia Minor, as well as in Syria. Boats would again appear upon the Orontes and introduce the arts of civilized life to the cities of the interior. Homs, Hannah, Damascus, Antioch and Aleppo, the plains of Mesopotamia would again flourish, new cities would spring up, and the Ottoman empire would become the richest in the world. But the die is cast, her sun is set, her glory has departed.

A more healthy place than Suédiah it would perhaps be difficult to find. There are no malignant fevers; consumptions, asthma, and bronchites, are unknown. We never see sickly children, or paralytics. Let the weather be what it may a cough is seldom heard, and a cold rarely lasts more than twenty-four hours. Death is really an event in Suédiah, except from accident or age; for we are not often visited with epidemics, and we breathe a pure and invigorating atmosphere; we have no heavy dews or fogs; the temperature is equable, neither too hot nor too cold; the air is balmy and agreeable; the sirocco is not felt as at Malta, Egypt, and other parts of the Mediterranean, consequently our spirits are always good. In the summer there is generally a refreshing breeze from the sea, and the nights are beautiful; and though there are fresh gales in winter, the wind is never cutting or irritating, and we very rarely see snow in the plains. We are too near the mountains to feel the effects of the snow, which collects on their lofty peaks. We always know what the weather is to be, and can depend upon it, and dress accordingly; for it is remarkable with what precision the seasons return. We have the early and the later rains, as mentioned in Scripture; but we can calculate almost to an hour when the change is to take place. I have kept a register of the temperature and atmospheric changes, and I can truly say, that the climate fully justifies the practice of the ancient Greek and Roman physicians, in sending their consumptive patients to Suédiah; and if the advantages to be derived from a residence there, were more extensively known, it would soon be resorted to by invalids as formerly. Mrs. H. Yates went there on account of ill health, having lost all her brothers and sisters of this insidious disease. She had not been there a month before she entirely lost her cough, and began to gain flesh and strength, she was soon able to take walks and rides like other people, and she is no longer like the same person; but she owes much to regular hours, and gentle horse exercise, diet and repose. She seldom had recourse to medicine.

We regret not having an English clergyman. A gentleman whose health does not permit him attending to his duties in Europe, would do well to go there. An income of £150 per annum, would suffice for every thing. He might do much good, and would pass his time agreeably. He is quite welcome to go to my house during my absence, and my agent, Mr. Bennett, whom I have left in charge of my servants, and

who speaks Arabio, Turkish, Italian, French, and English, will render him every assistance. I shall be happy to reply to any question, if he, or others, will address me under cover to W. Stuart, Esq., 6, Grays Inn Square, London. An English steamer touches at Alexandretta, and at Latichia, which is within nine or ten hours of Suédiah. There are also two English schooners, and many boats of the country, which are safe, and tolerably commodious, and Mr. Bennett will, I am sure, feel great pleasure in procuring travellers accommodation, if they will apply to him on their arrival.

The people are well disposed, industrious, civil, and friendly. They belong chiefly to the Antioch, Greek, or Armenian church. There are about twenty Turkish families, some Ansayrees from the mountains; but no Roman Catholics or Jews. We walk out at all hours alone and unarmed; and when we go to bed at night, we do not think it necessary to fasten either windows or doors: yet we have neither police, workhouses, nor soldiers; not even a beadle to frighten the boys into good behaviour. Still we have no beggars, and no one can say that the people are oppressed; they have few taxes, have always enough to eat, and appear contented and happy. The necessaries of life are abundant and cheap: the roads are good, and for the most part overshadowed with hedges of pomegranate, myrtle, and other evergreens; also the fig, the wild grape, poplar, plane tree, the scented willow, clematus, convolvulus, and other creepers; the wild verbenia, liquorice, thistles, roses, squills, and a variety of elegant little flowers decorate the banks; we grow oranges, lemons, apricots, peaches, nectarines, plums, cherries, strawberries, the Indian medlar, apples, pears, the randingan or egg plant, potatoes, and a great variety of other plants, shrubs, and vegetables; asparagus, and celery grow wild. There is a fine field for the sportsman, the naturalist, the historian, the antiquarian, and the astronomer.

We lead a sort of patriarchal life, which I would not change for all the luxuries and gaieties of Europe.

The habits of the people are simple, for they have not yet been corrupted by the inhabitants of cities. A spirit of enquiry has lately sprung up among the christians. They evince a desire for improvement, but they have no teachers or schools which are worthy of the name. The priests permit the circulation of the bible, but few can read or write their own language.

They work from sunrise to sunset for two piastres (5d.), most of them have a little farm or garden, cultivate the mulberry and rear silk worms, reeling off the silk in the season, that constitutes the great wealth of the country. The goats, sheep, and cattle are driven out to pasture in the morning and home again in the evening; and the sheep follow their pastor and come at the sound of their names, and it is delightful as the purple shadows of the declining sun fall upon the mountain sides, to hear the peaceful tinkling of the sheep's-bell as they wind their measured way through the dells and along the shaded lanes, and crop the herbage on their banks. Early marriages are encouraged, and few that are married are without families: this prevents immorality.

A father delights to have his children and grand-children under his

NO. 2.-VOL. XX.

K

roof, and at his death the elder brother is regarded as the patriarch of the house, and he is looked up to as such. Parental authority is absolute: a son never questions the will or opinion of his father, and great reverence is paid to age, all rising on the approach of an old man, and conducting him to the seat of honor. The coat of many colors presented to Joseph is still the national costume, and we are continually reminded of the days of Abraham, of Isaac, and of Jacob. But these things must be seen to be understood, and a tranquil and reflecting mind is necessary to appreciate them. A hurried glance is not sufficient, we must reside amongst these people to discover their feelings. It is a retired pastoral life, but need not be a lazy or unprofitable one, if we have only the heart to do good; for there are numerous ways in which an intelligent European may be useful to those around him, and those who find it necessary to add to their resources, need not be at a loss: they may do so without risk, and with a moderate capital. I can say with great truth, that we scarcely find twenty-four hours in the day enough, and do not know what it is to be troubled with ennui. We have a good library and newspapers, and never lack occupation or amusement. We make excursions to the more interesting spots, and return with a new zest to our peaceful abodes: all that is wanted is an English Protestant Minister, and a few true English hearts to co-operate with us in works of usefulness. All other things which we fancy might add to our convenience, when the proper time arrives, if they are for our own good, will doubtless be given to us.

I have only to add, that these remarks have been hastily set down, whilst H.M. steam ship Odin was under sailing orders, which must plead my excuse for all blunders. I shall be happy if they may prove useful or interesting to any whom they may concern.

Malta, March 30th, 1850.

WILLIAM HOLT Yates, m.d.

"SHAKINGS FROM SMYRNA.-By Mahmouz Effendi.

WE have often heard skippers express their astonishment that the Nautical Magazine does not occasionally touch upon scenes in Smyrna and Salonica; seeing that little is known of the latter place by tars and not too much of the former. Perhaps the best pen to describe Salonica, or Selanik, as it is called by the Turks, would be found among the officers who served recently in H.M.S. Beacon, Volage, Magpie, Auxiliar, or Research. Some of them must have been engaged in the "Survey of the Gulf of Salonica," or have some time or other paid a visit to its celebrated chief town out of commendable sailorlike curiosity. Trusting therefore, that by and bye, certain of their notes and observations will grace the pages of the Blue Magazine, we shall not ourselves pay any present attention to the claims of the unnoticed and neglected Salonica, but confine our scribbling to the Anatolian City of Smyrna. And even in regard to Smyrna we do not here attempt to place before the

reader anything like a systematic account, such as might be expected within the red covers of a Murray's Handbook, but simply a few pages of odds and ends, or as Jack terms them " Shakings".

Having premised thus much, stirred up our sea-coal fire, snuffed the candles, (we cannot afford wax,) and pressed a bran-new goose-quill into the service, we sit down satisfied to proceed with our task.

Sultan Mahmoud the Second, celebrated as the destroyer of the Janissaries had been dead a year or two, and his elder son Abd-ulMedjid, seated in quiet possession of the Ottoman throne, when one fine morning the number of English Merchant-shipping at Smyrna, the second-best port of the Turkish Empire, was increased by the arrival of the Sunderland-built brig Saucy Fanny; a vessel which had then the good fortune to be commanded by one Nicholas Collier, master mariner, and manned by as sturdy and steady a crew as ever spliced the main brace in honor of her Majesty Queen Victoria. Master Nick was proud of his ship, and proud of his men; and his men were proud of him and of the barkey too. The whole kit of them hailed from the Wear; a North Sea locality, second to none in its sailors, as many a foreign fleet has found to its cost, in times past, and yet may again. The crew of the Saucy Fanny had now, however, no thought of wars and press-gangs, or naval victories, in their minds; but were at the time our sketch commences, comfortably lounging in a group on the forecastle of the brig, and gazing towards the hill-backed city off which they were at anchor.

The mate, Mr. Surtees, stood a little apart from the men, pondering on the second chapter of Revelations, which he had read twenty times over during the passage out, and seemed now to glory in the opportunity afforded him of "seeing with his own eyes, as he said, " one of the seven churches addressed from Patmos by St. John;" and then he repeated to himself the verses from the Holy Book.

"And unto the Angel of the Church in Smyrna write; these things saith the first and the last, which was dead and is alive.

"I know thy_works and tribulation and poverty (but thou art rich) and I know the blasphemy of them which say they are Jews, and are not, but are the synagogue of Satan.

The Muslim insurrection against the conscription at Aleppo in November, 1850, during which the native Christians were fiercely attacked and plundered, but no Europeans injured, was without doubt mixed up with a Janissary movement; the almost total destruction of which formidable body was effected by force in 1826, the year before the Battle of Navarino. For an account of this sanguinary affair, taken from Turkish sources, see Knight's “Oriental Outlines," published by Sampson Low, of Fleet Street. Prior to the account of these riots at Aleppo reaching London, a report was circulated that the Sultan had fallen by poison; a report to this extent happily unfounded, but still the Times of Dec. 17th, 1850, had a subsequent account from Pera of the discovery of a conspiracy, and the arrest of thirteen dignitaries connected with the Imperial Seraglio So that Abd-ul-Medjid really appears to have been in some personal danger in 1850; and his young brother put forward as a claimant to the Ottoman Throne on the ground perhaps, that Abd-ul-Medjid is the favourer of progress, while Abd-ul-Aziz is said to be a supporter of the ancien regime or orthodox Janissary system.