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their own household. The men are employed cultivating the land, and many parts of the island evince traces of their assiduity. Fleets of canoes are to be seen in many places, employed collecting the trepang and tortoise-shell. They are all armed with swords, spears, bows and arrows, and many of them mount a brass gun or swivel in the bow.

Of stock, &c., pigs and fowls are most plentiful. There was little disposition to barter, but perhaps this was owing to our own poverty, as the place was visited only by the two surveying boats. They had never seen a ship, and could not imagine how we managed to get there amidst so many reefs.

These settlements, by their own account, are exceedingly sickly in the rainy season; and at the change of the monsoon which occurs in June and July. By their description the disease appears to visit them, in virulence of form, somewhat analogous to that of cholera, and black vomit. The amount of mortality we could not satisfactorily arrive at, for it would appear they flee as fast as possible to some neighbouring country, perhaps the Cuyos, or large Island of Panang, as soon as the usual prognostics become evident. They have no one to officiate as a medical man; and on the question being put to the person administering the government at Taitai, how he managed when taken ill, carelessly replied "Oh! God is my doctor."

We returned to the ship, and endeavoured against light airs and calms to prosecute the survey to the southward, but on the night of the 11th of June we were overtaken by a gale of wind, which was the first decided evidence we had experienced of the change of the monsoon. At daylight we were compelled to seek shelter under a group of islands, called in our chart, Carandaga, anchoring in 30 fathoms, within two cables of the shore.

The wreck of a Spanish gun-boat was discovered lying broadside upon a sandy beach on the south-west side of this island; and 100 yards inshore of her lay an accumulation of articles (amongst which) we picked up the Royal Arms, which one time had decorated her colours,) evidently marking the spot as the bivouac of the unfortunate crew. number marked upon the stern of the wreck was eighteen.

The

Bad weather detained us at this island until the 18th when we departed and were fortunate in getting well to the southward, and anchored on the 20th in lat. 10° 25', off a Spanish settlement, called Illan, situated half a mile from the entrance of a small fresh water river, navigable only by boats. The population of this place was about ninety. In other respects it differed little from those already described. It is subject to the Alcalde of Dumarran, and said to be a very sickly place in the month of August.

There is a similar settlement fifteen miles to the south-west of the above, called Barbacan, at which place we were told there were two others, named Baboyan and Bar-coo, still further south; but these perhaps are mere frontier stations, consisting of one or two houses, and at a greater distance inland, as in our subsequent visit we could discover no traces of them, whereas, one or two detached houses were to be seen crowning the spurs of some of the hills.

It is remarkable how gradual and almost imperceptibly, the tone of society altered and blended from one state into another, as we advanced southward, until at last not a trace of Spanish admixture could be detected, and we came entirely upon a Malay population. About the point of transition was almost evident by an entire absence of inhabitants, at least that we could see.

The coast, with the exception of the Archipelago, to the northward of Dumarran, as far south as 9° 50', offers no very convenient anchorages. It has some deep bays, which are interspersed with low coral islands, surrounded by reefs, and many nuclei for the formation of more exist, almost awash, obstructing the channels between them, which, in some cases lead into very fair anchorages, but are in consequence rendered impracticable for the general coaster.*

In the latitude however above mentioned, we discovered an excellent harbour, where a vessel can lay land-locked in 8 fathoms. The ingress and egress are at all times practicable, as the entrance, which is a strait, is two miles long and averaging one broad, lies nearly at right angles to the prevailing wind in both seasons.

Wood is plentiful, and good water can be procured from a small river called Ewig, emptying itself in the north-west corner of the harbour; but for which in the dry season a boat must ascend about three or four miles. By making a tank of the boat, the Royalist's pinnace brought alongside six tons and a half at one turn, and with considerable less wear and tear than is occasioned by adopting the casks.

Stock is not plentiful; the people who live in small detached houses scattered about the banks of the river, although very communicative, are in a wretched condition. They evinced every desire to give what little they possessed, and each woman who visited the ship, brought a fowl in her arms for a present.

The men's clothing consist merely of the chawat, but the person who styled himself chief, had on a Spanish shirt in addition. The women's attire is a coloured cotton garment passed tight round the waist, and reaching to the knees. They are remarkably plain, and their expression of countenance betokens a complete absence of intellectual endowments; they make themselves, if possible, more hideous, by the constant application of the beetle-nut. While some of the women in figure are most perfect, others again present an unsightly spectacle, arising from a scorbutic affection, which prevails greatly, and disfigures the whole frame. They speak Bysian, mixed with which a Spanish idiom can occasionally be detected. The average height of the male population is five feet two inches, the female four feet ten inches, and five feet; the weight of the former about 120 lbs,

We next proceeded on the morning of the 6th of July, to prosecute

The currents on the east coast are very mutable, and are greatly influenced by prevailing winds.

The flood sets along the coast to the southward, and the ebb to the northward.

The maximum velocity observed was 15 knots. Rise and fall seven feet, and the highest tides have always occurred in the daytime.

our investigation southward. When about two miles from the entrance of the harbour, the depth increases suddenly from 21 to 120 fathoms. This change is marked by a ripple line on the surface, and at certain periods no doubt the water breaks across the mouth of the harbour, and to such extent, as would probably deter a stranger from running his vessel through. The soundings on the east coast are very irregular; from 50 fathoms you go suddenly into 7, and just as quick again into deep water. If the sun is out, and weather clear, the shoal spots will always be discovered from the mast-head; recollecting however, a similar phenomenon will obtain, by the occurrence of floating patches of cirri. On one occasion, when about fifteen miles south of the harbour of Ewig we observed a change of depth from 120 to 9 fathoms, and this occurred while hauling the line in, and when the vessel had barely more than steerage way. We have not observed that the thermometer indicates the proximity of these sudden changes.

The whole island of Palawan, but more particularly in this neighbourhood is excessively mountainous, the peaks attaining an elevation of several thousand feet, and some of them are disposed very capriciously.

Advancing to the southward along a strait line of coast in some parts, and deep bays at others, the country assumed a somewhat different aspect. The high mountain ranges instead of sending their ridges and spurs close down to the sea, were generally fronted by extensive tracts of low alluvial land, and the numerous light green patches which stretched away up the hills, and park-like scenery that bounded their bases, bore testimony to the fact of our being in a very populous district. We did not, however, succeed in establishing a communication until our arrival on the 19th of July, off a place called Tak-boo-loo-boo, in lat. about 8° 40' N.

Here a slight mistake occurred which might have resulted unpleasantly, but by the judicious conduct of Lieut. Pasco, it served in effect, to open and establish a most friendly intercourse. This officer was inshore surveying while the vessel was doing some work further off, and when pulling along the coast, observed a party of armed natives on the beach. He immediately directed his course to close them, displaying at the same time (what to their limited ideas conveyed only one meaning, viz., that of determined hostility,) an English red ensign.

A very reserved and suspicious communication however was effected, but it was sufficient to rectify the mistake, and we yielded to their prejudices by substituting always a white ensign for the obnoxious colour red, which soon won upon their confidence, and a friendly intercourse ensued.

We were at anchor off this place ten days with two anchors ahead in 20 fathoms, and top-gallant masts on deck. The people informed us it was just the commencement of their bad season, and would all be over in one month. From what we could learn of these people, the majority of whom are Malays, we concluded the district for many miles in either direction, was in the jurisdiction of the Rajah of Sooloo. This again was divided into sub-districts, over each of which a Datoo presided, all being independent of one another.

We visited the Datoo of Tak-boo-loo-boo's house, which lay about one mile inshore, and is approached by a pathway cut through a thick jungle, crossed in several places by a meandering stream of clear fresh water; emerging from the jungle we opened into an extensive cultivated plain upon which was growing rice, Indian corn, water-melons, yams, and a variety of fruits and vegetables, in full realization of that which we had only hitherto been able to obtain glimpses of, through our telescopes, while passing along another part of the coast, whose inhabitants arising perhaps from the greater distance they were situated from the shore, were not so communicatively disposed as our friends at Tak-booloo-boo.

The Datoo house was a complete specimen of the residence of a Malay chief. It was filled with warlike weapons of every description, even to a tower flint-lock musket.

The population of the neighbouring district amounted to upwards of 5,000 persons, and there were many instances of longevity among them. A few of the Bysians or Aborigines were living on terms of amity, and I think some are in the service of the Datoo, but the tribe live in the mountains in a state of nudity, subsisting upon hogs or whatever they can find. They do not molest in any way the people below.

Those we saw, were short and thick set, having an oval face, but sharp features; and in colour approaching the negro. They worship a plurality of Gods. The Datoo and his people are all Mahometans.

Their weapons, besides the spear and the kris, are the sumpiti, or blowpipe, through which they project, by condensing their breath, small poisoned arrows. They are seldom to be seen unaccompanied by either one or the other.

On the 29th of July we weighed from this place and anchored off Rocky Bay (in the chart) on the 31st.

Having collected sufficient data for the survey of Rocky Bay, we proceeded to a small island situated about twenty miles to the eastward of the Northern Balabac Strait, from which we required observations. Bad weather, however, and short allowance of provisions, upon which the ship's company had been placed one month previous, owing to the salt meat boiling away two-thirds its original weight, obliged us most reluctantly to abandon the idea of completing the whole east side of Palawan this cruize.

With only ten days provision left, on the 3rd of August, we started for Labuan, where we arrived on the evening of the 10th of the same month, previously striking upon an unknown rock (off the north end of that island,) where we remained a week. We arrived at Singapore on the evening of the 31st of August.

Our crew, although they had been four months on salt provisions, and very much exposed, suffered but slightly; and we sustained no loss either by sickness or accident; a happy result which could have scarcely been anticipated, when there are so many, who, from long continuance in the country, have their constitutions greatly enfeebled. But not so with the officers, who have suffered more in proportion than the men, for with the exception of two they have been most tediously afflicted

with ulcers and boils. They prevailed greatly for the first two months with the ship's company as well.

It is satisfactory to know that the Royalist's visit to these unknown localities, has been productive of the greatest good feeling, and has left an impression upon the coast that cannot fail to be of advantage to any European ship that may hereafter visit, or be unfortunately wrecked upon it; and this success is mainly to be attributed to the judicious conduct of Lieut. Pasco and Mr. Calver, (second-master,) whose excellent example and tact in their dealings with the people, was successfully emulated by the rest of the officers of the ship.

THE CELTIC PHILOSOPHER.

"One within whose subtle being,

As light and wind within some delicate cloud

That fades amid the blue moon's burning sky,*
Genius and youth contended."

Shelly.

THE inquietude of man is observed every where under a variety of phases, extremely diversified in degree. But how few, comparatively speaking, reach the enviable point-contentment of mind, which, whatever may be the condition they find themselves placed in, can ensure to them the peaceful enjoyment of life.

Happiness" our being's end and aim" is ardently sought for by all; but, how different are our ideas of what constitutes it! And how various are the paths which we follow to arrive at and secure the blessing! We fancy, if mankind all saw through the same medium, but one path to its consummation, how many millions would faint by the way, from the pressure, and find their hope and expectation scattered to the winds! That is indeed a fancy which we may trace to selfish avarice or foolish ambition. There is no mystery in this pursuit; nor is it paradoxical to affirm, that there is but one narrow path, by which happiness can be reached, and that all may pass through without the slightest fear of fainting by the way, that of virtue, wherein, with a due sense and observance of our duty to the Dispenser of all good, and to our fellowmen, as brothers of the same universal family, irrespective of condition, we shall find what we seek. The mistake which most of us make in the search, is in the means. We fancy that gold will bring to us the "summum bonum" for which we have been sighing; but find at last, even when that tempting talisman of Satan has been obtained, that happiness is not a marketable thing.

I presume to differ from the theory, that all men are born with the same capacity. Leaving aside accidents, if we take any number, having had the same advantages of education, shall we find the capacities alike.

*The blue moon's burning sky." Our eccentric young poet here, perhaps, alludes to the volcanic nature of the satellite. The moon however, appears to all other eyes of a silvery hue rather than of a "blue" colour.

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