refuge at Cöln; but the celebrated water of that town, having in its manufacture evidently abstracted all perfume from the atmosphere, they could not endure the dirt and smell of the place, and, therefore, had proceeded by land towards Coblenz; but, as they were changing horses at a small village, seeing our steam-boat in view, they ordered a party of peasants to draw their carriage to the banks of the river, and as soon as our vessel came smoking alongside, they, their rosy, freshcolored French maid, their dark, chocolate-colored chariot, and their brown, ill-looking Italian courier, were all on board.

As soon as this young London couple lightly stepped on deck, I saw, at one glance, that without at all priding themselves on their abilities, they fancied, and indeed justly fancied, that they belonged to that class of society which, in England, so modestly calls itself-good. That it was not healthy society-that its victims were exposed to late hours, crowded rooms, and impure air, was evident enough from the contrast which existed between their complexions, and that of their healthy country attendant; however, they seemed not only to be perfectly satisfied with themselves and the clique which they had left behind them, but to have a distaste for everything else which they saw. Towards some German ladies, who had slightly bowed to them, they looked with a vacant haughty stare, as if they conceived there must he some mistake, and as if, at all events, it would be necessary to keep such people off. Yet, after all, there was no great harm in these two young people: that, in the countries which they were about to visit, they would be fitted only

for each other, was sadly evident; however, on the other hand, it was also evidently their wish not to extend their acquaintance. Their heads were lanthorns, illuminated with no more brains than barely sufficient to light them on their way; and so, like the babes in the wood, they sat together, hand-in-hand, regardless of everything in creation but themselves.

For running their carriage down to the shore, the brown confidential courier, whose maxim was, of course, to pay little and charge much, offered the gang of peasants some kreuzers, which amounted, in English currency, to about sixpence. This they refused, and the captain of the party, while arguing with the flint-skinning courier, was actually carried off by our steam-boat, which, like time and tide, waited for no man. The poor fellow, finding that the Italian was immovable, came aft to the elegant English couple, who were still leaning towards each other like the Siamese boys. He pleaded his case, stated his services, declared his poverty, and, in a manly voice, prayed for redress. The dandy listened-looked at his boots, which were evidently pinching him, -listened-passed four white fingers through the curls of his jet-black hair-showed the point of a pink tongue gently playing with a front tooth, and when the whole story was at an end, without moving a muscle in his countenance, in a sickly tone of voice, he pronounced his verdict as follows......." Alley!"

The creditor tried again, but the debtor sat as silent and as inanimate as a corpse. However, all this time the steam-boat dragging the poor peasant out of his way, he protested in a few

angry exclamations against the injustice with which he had been treated (a sentiment I was very sorry to hear more than once mildly whispered by many a quiet-looking German), and descending the vessel's side into a small boat, which had just brought us a new captive, he landed at a village from which he had about eight miles to walk, to join his comrades.

It is with no satirical feeling that I have related this little occurrence. To hurt the feelings of "gay beings born to flutter but a day”—to break such a pair of young flimsy butterflies upon the wheel, affords me neither amusement nor delight; but the every-day occurrence of English travellers committing our well-earned national character for justice and liberality to the base slave-driving hand of a courier, is a practice which, as well as the bad taste of acting the part of a London dandy on the great theatre of Europe, ought to be checked.

As we proceeded up the Rhine, there issued from one of the old romantic castles we were passing, a party of young English lads, whose appearance (as soon as they came on board) did ample justice to their country; and, comparing them while they walked the deck, with the rest of their fellow-prisoners, I could not help more than once fancying that I saw a determination in their step, a latent character in their attitudes, and a vigour in their young frames, which being interpreted, said

"We dare do all that doth become a man,

He who dares more-is none!"

Besides these young collegians, an English gentleman came on board, who appeared quite de

He was a stout man

lighted to join their party. of about fifty, tall, well dressed, evidently wealthy, and as ruddy as our mild wholesome air could make him. Not only had he a high colour, but there was a network of red veins in his cheeks, which seemed as if not even death could drive it away; his face shone from excessive cleanliness, and though his nose certainly was not long, there was a sort of round bull-dog honesty in his face, which it was quite delightful to gaze upon. I overheard this good man inform his countrymen, who had surrounded him in a group, that he had never before been out of Englandand that, to tell the truth, he never wished to quit it again!" "It's surely beautiful scenery!" observed one of his auditors, pointing to the outline of a ruin which, with the rock upon which it stood, seemed flying away behind us. "Yes, yes!" replied the florid traveller.,,But, sir! it's the dirtiness of the people I complain of. Their cookery is dirty-they are dirty in their persons -dirty in their habits-that shocking trick of smoking (pointing to a fat German who was enjoying this pleasure close by his side, and I rather suspect perfectly understood English) is dirty-depend upon it, they are what we should call, sir, a very dirty race!" "Do you speak the language?" said one of the young listeners with a smile which was very awkwardly repressed. "Oh no!" replied the well-fed gentleman, laughing good-naturedly; "I know nothing of their language. I pay for all I eat, and I find, by paying, can get anything I want. Mangez! changez?' is quite foreign language enough, sir, for me;" and having to the first word suited his

action, by pointing with his fore-finger to his mouth, and to explain the second, having rubbed his thumb against the self-same finger, as if it were counting out money, he joined the roar of laughter which his two French words had caused, and then very goodnaturedly paced the deck by himself.

The jagged spires of Coblenz now came in sight, and every Englishman walked to the head of the vessel to see them, while several of the inhabitants of the city, with less curiosity, occupied themselves in leisurely getting together their luggage. For a moment, as we glided by the Moselle, on our right, we looked up the course of that lovely river, which here delivers up its waters to the Rhine; then in a few minutes the bell on board rung, until we found ourselves firmly moored to the pier of Coblenz. Most of the passengers went into the town. I, however, crossing the bridge of boats, took up my quarters at the Cheval Blanc, a large hotel, standing immediately beneath that towering rock so magnificently crowned by the celebrated fortress of Ehrenbreitstein.

THE JOURNEY.

THE next day starting from Coblenz while the morning air was still pure and fresh, I bade adieu to the picturesque river behind me, and travelling on a capital macadamized road which cuts across the duchy from Coblenz to Mainz, I immediately began to ascend the mountains, which on all sides were beautifully covered with wood. In about two hours descending into a narrow valley, I passed