The Phoenix arrived, says Sparks, in his Life of Smith, in the spring of 1608. Smith says, under the chapter headed "The gouernment deuolued to Captaine Samuel Argall 1617:"

In March they set saile, 1617, [from England,] and in May he [Argall] arrived at Iames towne, where hee was kindly entertained, by Captaine Yearley and his companie, in a martiall order, whose right-hand file was led by an Indian. In Iames towne he found but fiue or six houses, the church downe, the pallizado's broken, the bridge in pieces, the well of fresh water spoiled, the storehouse vsed for the church; the marketplace and streets, and all other spare places planted with tobacco; the saluages as frequent in their houses as themselues, whereby they become expert in our armes, and had a great many in their custodie and possession; the colony dispersing all about, planting tobacco.

From the above, it is evident that previous to 1617, or 10 years after the first settlement of Jamestown, there were two churches destroyed. This tower now standing may have belonged to the second church, and survived its destruction. It could not have been part of the first, for that "cost no more than £50;" or it may have been the tower of a third. We can only surmise that the tower has been standing about 230 years. It is unnecessary to detail further the early history of Jamestown, as it is delineated in the general history of Virginia in this volume.

Two actions were fought in this vicinity in the revolution. The first was June 25th, 1781, and took place at Spencer's ordinary, in the forks of the roads leading to Jamestown and Williamsburg. The subjoined account is from Girardin:

Lafayette, attentive to the movements of his adversary, no sooner observed his retreat from Richmond, than he himself moved onward; displaying, however, the same salutary circumspection as before, and uniformly keeping his main body at the distance of about twenty miles from the foe. Cornwallis reached Williamsburg on the 25th of June. During his halt in that place, hearing that the Americans had some boats and stores on Chickahominy River, he charged Lieut.-Col. Simcoe with the destruction of these. The latter, attended by his corps and a party of yagers, easily performed the task. Lafayette, after passing through Richmond and New Kent Court House in pursuit of Cornwallis, had taken post on Tyre's plantation, about twenty miles from Williamsburg. There he was informed, by his exploring parties, of Simcoe's expedition to the Chickahominy, and immediately detached Lieut.-Col. Butler, of the Pennsylvania line, with orders to strike the British partisan on his return. Butler was well known for his skill and courage. His achievements at Saratoga had placed him by the side of Morgan, and he had uniformly and gloriously maintained this high ground. The confidence of Lafayette could not be better placed. On the present occasion, where only a partial engagement was sought, the detachment confided to him consisted, besides his continentals, of the rifle-corps under the Majors Call and Willis, and about one hundred and twenty horsemen. This last force was commanded by Major M'Pherson, of Pennsylvania. He mounted some infantry behind his dragoons, and, seeking Simcoe with unusual ardor and speed, overtook him near Spencer's plantation, six or seven miles above Williamsburg. A sharp conflict immediately ensued, in which the British yagers and the American cavalry were alternately repulsed. The arrival of the riflemen, headed by Call and Willis, gave to the action additional fierceness; but the superiority of the hostile cavalry, compelled Butler's van to fall back upon the body of continentals stationed in the rear. Here the contest ended; Simcoe resuming his retreat, and Butler not choosing to pursue him because he was informed that Cornwallis, upon hearing the first fire, had ordered his main body to the support of the returning detachment. The official accounts of the two generals widely differ as to the loss sustained by each party in this action. Lafayette states the enemy's loss at sixty killed and one hundred wounded. Cornwallis says that three officers and thirty privates only were killed and wounded. Among the killed, a Lieutenant Jones seems to have excited peculiar regret. The loss of the Americans in killed and wounded has not been recorded; but if we eredit the

statement of the British commander, three of their officers, with twenty-eight privates, were taken prisoners.

When Cornwallis first arrived in this vicinity, he prepared to cross over the James, at Jamestown, and march to Portsmouth. After halting nine days at Williamsburg, his lordship advanced, on the 4th of July, 1781, to Jamestown Island. The 5th and 6th were employed in transporting his baggage, &c., while the main army still continued in their encampment. Lafayette having received false information that only a covering party remained on this side of the river with Cornwallis, determined to make an attack, the success of which was deemed infallible. The events are thus detailed by Girardin :

The British commander received information of Lafayette's approach about noon on the 6th, and took every measure in his power to confirm the belief that his rear-guard only now remained. He drew up the major part of his army in compact order on the main land, deployed a few troops on the island so as to magnify their apparent numbers, drew in his light parties, and directed his piquets to suffer themselves to be insulted and driven in. By this coincidence of circumstances calculated to delude, an error was perpetuated which exposed the American army in Virginia to the most imminent peril of utter annihilation.

About three in the afternoon, Lafayette's army began to move from Greenspring. This late hour was judiciously and happily fixed upon. If only a strong hostile party should be found at Jamestown, the remaining part of the day would suffice for its destruction; if, on the contrary, the main body of Cornwallis's troops should be encountered, the intervening shades of the approaching night would shield the Americans from ruin. In their advance to the enemy, not more than one mile and a half distant, Lafay ette's troops had to pass over a causeway, extending from the house at Greenspring to the Williamsburg road, through a tract of low and sunken ground impracticable to either infantry or cavalry. The time consumed in the passage of this defile retarded the approach of the Americans to the British till near sunset. The rifle corps under Call and Willis, and a patrol of dragoons, formed the front of the assailants. These were followed by the cavalry of Armand and Mercer's troop, headed by Major M'Pherson. The continental infantry, under Wayne, supported the whole. Steuben was left at Greenspring with the militia, forming a reserve obviously too remote from the acting corps for any efficient purpose. When the advancing column reached the road, parties of riflemen were thrown on its flanks, while the cavalry continued to move in front. The action was soon commenced by a desultory fire of the enemy's yagers. M'Pherson and Mercer being then ordered to take the command of the rifle corps, rapidly led them on to the attack, and drove in the hostile piquets, with much confusion and some loss on the side of the British. This advantage was keenly pursued by the American riflemen, who, taking post in a ditch covered by a rail fence, recommenced their fire with considerable effect. Two battalions of continental infantry, led on by Majors Galvan and Willis, supported by two pieces of artillery under the direction of Captain Savage, now joined the riflemen, and assisted them in successfully maintaining for some time a most arduous conflict against the enemy, who now advanced in a body headed by Lieut.-Col. Yorke on the right, and Lieut.-Col. Dundas on the left. The superiority of the foe, however, was too great to be long resisted: the riflemen first gave way, then the cavalry, and finally the light infantry. They all fell back upon Wayne, as did also Capt. Savage with his two field-pieces. The brave leader of the Pennsylvania line had drawn up his men in compact order, under cover of an adjacent wood. He repeatedly directed them to charge the enemy with fixed bayonets, but local circumstances prevented the execution of this order, and allowed only a close and murderous fire. Lafayette, who by this time had discovered his mistake, and became convinced that he had to contend with the main body of the British army, observing that Wayne was nearly outflanked on both sides, ordered him to retreat to the second line of continentals, drawn up about half a mile in his rear. The darkness of the night favored this retreat. It was, however, found necessary to abandon the two field-pieces; after which the morass in front of Greenspring was recrossed, and the acting corps, together with the reserve, proceeded to a more remote and safer encampment. Whether from his apprehension of some ambuscade, or from what was with him a more powerful consideration than fear, a desire

of quickly transmitting to Sir Henry Clinton the required assistance, Cornwallis attempted no pursuit, but in the course of the night crossed over into Jamestown Island, and soon afterwards proceeded to Portsmouth.

In this affair, one hundred and eighteen of the continental troops, among whom were ten officers, were killed, wounded, or taken. The British state their loss, both in killed and wounded, at five officers and seventy privates.

Williamsburg, the seat of justice for the county, is 58 miles from Richmond, 12 from Yorktown, 68 from Norfolk, and 7 from Jamestown. It is finely situated, on a level plain, between the York and James, immediately on the division line between James City and York counties. It is laid out in parallel streets, with a square in the centre of several acres, containing the county buildings. Through it runs the principal street, which is very wide, and about a mile in length; at one end of which is the college, and at the other the ruins of the old capitol.

Williamsburg, in its most palmy days, contained only a population of about 2,000. It has at present 1 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist church, and about 1,600 inhabitants. The Eastern Lunatic Asylum is located here. It consists of a lofty and extensive pile of brick buildings, enclosed by a wall, in a pleasant area of several acres. The number of patients is generally over one hundred; and the institution is ably conducted, under the superintendence of Dr. John M. Galt.

There is an air of repose about this village city, so interesting from its historic associations. It is the oldest incorporated town in Virginia. This immediate vicinity was first known as the Middle Plantations, and the town was first settled in 1632, from the adjoining settlements, principally from Jamestown. In 1698, the seat of government was removed here from that place. From a work* published a short time after, we make the following extract, principally relative to this place:

The first metropolis, Jamestown, was built in the most convenient place for trade, and security against the Indians; but often received much damage, being twice burnt down, after which it never recovered its perfection-consisting at present of nothing but abundance of brick rubbish and three or four good inhabited houses, though the parish is of pretty large extent, but less than others. When the state-house and prison were burnt down, Governor Nicholson removed the residence of the governor, with the meetings of the general courts and general assemblies, to Middle Plantation, seven miles from Jamestown, in a healthier and more convenient place, and freer from the annoyance of moschetoes. Here he laid out the city of Williamsburg-in the form of a cipher, made of W and M-on a ridge at the head springs of two great creeks, one running into James, and the other into York River, which are each navigable for sloops within a mile of the town; at the head of which creek are good landings, and lots laid out, and dwelling-houses and warehouses built; so that this town is most conveniently situated, in the middle of the lower part of Virginia, commanding two noble rivers, not above four miles from either, and is much more commodious and healthful than if built upon a river.

Public buildings here of note are, the college, the capitol, the governor's house, and the church.

The college front, which looks due east, is double, and is 136 feet long. It is a lofty pile of brick buildings, adorned with a cupola. At the north end runs back a large wing, which is a handsome hall, answerable to which the chapel is to be built; and

* "The Present State of Virginia, by Hugh Jones, A. M., chaplain to the honorable Assembly, and lately minister of Jamestown, &c., in Virginia." This work is a small 12mo. of about 150 pages. It is very scarce. The only copies we have seen are in the libraries of Gov. Tazewell, and Peter Force, Esq, of Washington city.

there is a spacious piazza on the west side, from one wing to the other. It is approached by a good walk, and a grand entrance by steps, with good courts and gardens about it, with a good house and apartments for the Indian master and his scholars, and outhouses; and a large pasture enclosed like a park, with about 150 acres adjoining, for occasional uses.

The building is beautiful and commodious, being first modelled by Sir Christopher Wren, adapted to the nature of the country by the gentlemen there; and since it was burnt down it has been rebuilt, nicely contrived, altered, and adorned, by the ingenious direction of Governor Spotswood; and is not altogether unlike Chelsea Hospital.

This royal foundation was granted and established by charter, by King William and Queen Mary, and endowed by them with some thousand acres of land, with duties upon furs and skins, and a penny a pound for all tobacco transported from Virginia and Maryland to the other plantations; to which have been made several additional benefactions as that handsome establishment of Mr. Boyle, for the education of Indians, with the many contributions of the country, especially a late one of £1000 to buy negroes for the college use and service.

The society is a corporation, established for a president, six masters, or professors, with a hundred scholars, more or less.

The salary of the president, Mr. James Blair, has been lately ordered to be reduced from £150 to £100 per annum.

The salary of the fellows--one of which I have been for several years—is £80 per annum each; with 20s. entrance, and 20s. a year for pupilage, for each scholar. The payments are sometimes made in current Spanish money, and sometimes in sterling bills. When the college shall be completely finished, and scholarships founded, then is the trust to be transferred from the trustees to the president and masters; but at present it is managed by a certain number of governors or visitors-one of which is yearly chosen rector-appointed first by the trustees, elected out of the principal and worthiest inhabitants. These appoint a person to whom they grant several privileges and allowances, to board and lodge the masters and scholars at an extraordinary cheap rate. This office is at present performed in the neatest and most regular and plentiful manner by Mrs. Mary Stith, a gentlewoman of great worth and discretion, in good favor with the gentry, and great esteem and respect with the common people.

The Indians who are upon Mr. Boyle's foundation have now a handsome apartment for themselves and their master, built near the college. The young Indians, procured from the tributary or foreign nations with much difficulty, were formerly boarded or lodged in the town, where abundance of them used to die, either through sickness, change of provision, and way of life; or, as some will have it, often for want of proper necessaries, and due care taken with them. Those of them that have escaped well, and been taught to read and write, have, for the most part, returned to their home, some with, and some without baptism, where they follow their own savage customs and heathenish rites. A few of them have lived as servants among the English, or loitered and idled away their time in laziness and mischief. But it is a great pity that more care is not taken of them after they are dismissed from school. They have admirable capacities when their humors and tempers are perfectly understood.

Fronting the college, at near its whole breadth, is extended a whole street, mathematically straight-for the first design of the town's form is changed to a much betterjust three quarters of a mile in length, at the other end of which stands the Capitol, a noble, beautiful, and commodious pile, as any of its kind, built at the cost of the late queen, and by direction of the governor. In this is the secretary's office, with all the courts of law and justice, held in the same form, and near the same manner, as in England, except the ecclesiastical courts. Here the governor and twelve counsellors sit as judges in the general courts, in April and October, whither trials and causes are removed from courts held at the court-houses, monthly, in every county, by a bench of justices and a county clerk. Here are also held the Oyer and Terminer courts, one in summer and the other in winter, added by the charity of the late queen, for the prevention of prisoners lying in jail above a quarter of a year before their trial. Here are also held court martials, by judges appointed on purpose for the trial of pirates; likewise courts of admiralty, for the trial of ships for illegal trade. The building is in the form of an H nearly; the secretary's office and the general court taking up one side below stairs; the middle being a handsome portico, leading to the clerk of the assembly's office, and the House of Burgesses on the other side; which last is not unlike the House of Commons. In each wing is a good staircase, one leading to the council-chamber, where the governor and council sit in very great state, in imitation of the king and coun

cil, or the lord chancellor and House of Lords. Over the portico is a large room where conferences are held, and prayers are read by the chaplain to the general assembly; which office I have had the honor, for some years, to perform. At one end of this is a lobby, and near it is the clerk of the council's office; and at the other end are several chambers for the committees of claims, privileges, and elections; and over all these are several good offices for the receiver-general, for the auditor, and treasurer, &c.; and upon the middle is raised a lofty cupola with a large clock.

The whole is surrounded with a neat area, encompassed with a good wall, and near it is a strong sweet prison for criminals; and on the other side of the open court another for debtors, when any are removed from the other prisons in each county; but such prisoners are very rare, the creditors being there generally very merciful, and the laws so favorable for debtors that some esteem them too indulgent.

The cause of my being so particular in describing the capitol, is because it is the best and most commodious pile of its kind that I have seen or heard of.

Because the state-house, James Town, and the college have been burnt down, therefore is prohibited in the capitol, the use of fire, candles, and tobacco.

Parallel to the main street mentioned is a street on each side of it, but neither quite so long nor so broad; and at proper distances are small cross-streets, for the convenience of communication. Near the middle stands the church, which is a large strong piece of brick-work in the form of a cross, nicely regular and convenient, and adorned as the best churches in London. This from the parish is called Bruton church, where I had the favor of being lecturer. Near this is the large octagon tower, which is the magazine, or repository of arms and ammunition, standing far from any house except James Town court-house; for the town is half in James Town county, and half in York county. Not far from hence is a large area for a market-place; near which is a play. house and good bowling-green.

From the church runs a street northward, called Palace-street; at the other end of which stands the palace, or governor's house, a magnificent structure, built at the public expense, finished and beautified with gates, fine gardens, offices, walks, a fine canal, orchards, &c., with a great number of the best arms, nicely posited, by the ingenious contrivance of the most accomplished Colonel Spotswood. This likewise has the ornamental addition of a good cupola or lantern, illuminating most of the town upon birthnights, and other nights of occasional rejoicings. At the capitol, at public times, may be seen a great number of handsom, well-dressed, compleat gentlemen; and at the governor's house, upon birth-nights, and at balls and assemblies, I have seen as fine an appearance, as good diversion, and as splendid entertainments in Governor Spotswood's time, as I have seen anywhere else.

These buildings here described are justly reputed the best in all English America, and are exceeded by few of their kind in England..

Williamsburg is now incorporated and made a market-town, and governed by a mayor and alderman; and is well stocked with rich stores of all sorts of goods, and well furnished with the best provisions and liquors. Here dwell several very good families, and more reside here at their own houses in public times. They live in the same neat manner, dress after the same modes, and behave themselves exactly as the gentry in London; most families of any note having a coach, chariot, berlin, or chaise. The number of artificers here is daily augmented, as are the convenient ordinaries or inns, for the accommodation of strangers. The servants here, as in other parts of the county, are English, Scotch, Irish, or negroes. The town is regularly laid out in lots or square portions, sufficient each for a house and garden, so that they don't build contiguous, whereby may be prevented the spreading danger of fire; and this also affords a free passage for the air, which is very grateful in violent hot weather.

Here, as in other parts, they build with brick, but most commonly with timber lined with ceiling, and cased with feather-edged plank, painted with white-lead and oil, covered with shingles of cedar, &c., tarred over at first; with a passage generally through the middle of the house, for an air-draught in summer. Thus their houses are lasting; dry and warm in winter, and cool in summer; especially if there be windows enough to draw the air. Thus they dwell comfortably, genteelly, pleasantly, and plentiful, in this delightful, healthful, and, I hope, thriving city of Williamsburg.

The foregoing description of Williamsburg, published 120 years since, in many points resembles it at the present time. From then until 1779, when the seat of government was removed to Richmond, the town was the centre of the fashion, wealth, and learning of