a large university, an immense prison, an infirmary, and a lunatic asylum here; but I did not see any of them, owing to Dr. Krombholz's absence. From all I could learn there is not one phrenologist in Prague.

The Bohemians belong to the great Sclavonian family, of which the Russians and Poles are branches. They speak a language of their own, and the common people understand none other. The educated classes speak German. A Phrenologist sees at a glance that they are a different people from the Germans. The German generally has fair hair; a great number of the Bohemians are dark. In the Germans the nervous and lymphatic temperaments predominate; in the Bohemians the nervous and bilious. The German head is broad in proportion to its length; the Bohemian head is longer in proportion to its breadth. In the German head the coronal region is generally both broad and high, rising considerably above Cautiousness and Causality. In the Bohemian head Cautiousness stands very high above the ear; the organs of Firmness and Self-Esteem rise still higher; but Conscientiousness is less developed, and there is a want both of breadth and rotundity in Benevolence and Hope. The anterior lobe is in general well developed; the Knowing organs rather predominating. Concentrativeness is larger than in the Germans. The extreme politeness and open good nature of the Germans are not observable here. The people are more stiff, cold, and reserved in their manners. In dining at a table d'hôte at which 70 persons sat down to dinner every day, chiefly Bohemians, I was struck with the resemblance of the heads, features, and gestures of many of them to individuals with whom I am intimately acquainted in Scotland. I tried to find similar resemblances in the towns of Germany, but in vain. Judging from similarity of character, I am disposed to think that Scotland has drawn more of her blood from Bohemia than is generally imagined. Although this country is intensely Catholic, we found all labour and business suspended on Sunday. We were on one Sunday in the north, on another in the centre, and on a third in the south of Bohemia, and every where the same respect was paid to the day. We were told that in the country, the people would not load the corn on a Sunday, even in a rainy season. They go to church at 6 in the morning, and services continue, in succession, till 12 o'clock; after which, in towns, they have dinner, music, dancing, a play, or some other entertainment; and in the country they walk in the fields, or drink beer and talk under the shade of acacias, or lime trees, planted near the inns. In Hamburgh and Berlin, one almost never saw a native dandy. In Bohemia they are as plentiful, and are as obviously indigenous, as in Bond Street or

Prince's Street; and the race is identically the same in the three countries. We traversed a great part of Bohemia nearly in a direct line from Dresden to Vienna, and found it every where well cultivated; but a great part of the soil is poor, and, this season, the crops are very late.

We arrived in Vienna on the 11th of July, the distance from Prague being about 200 miles, which we travelled in the mail coach, as the road was not interesting. We hired it all for 47. 19s., and found it an excellent conveyance. It travelled at the rate of five and three quarters English miles an hour, exclusive of stoppages, and there was no unnecessary delay on the road. I had six letters of introduction to highly respectable individuals in the Austrian capital, which soon procured me more acquaintances. I have seen the common objects of interest to strangers, but confine my remarks to Phrenology and the people. Professor Schroff was so obliging as to shew me the Anatomical Museum, at the Josepheum, or great school for military surgery and medicine in Vienna. There is a splendid collection of anatomical preparations in wax, purchased by the Emperor Joseph the II., from Florence. There are other collections in Anatomy, Pathology and Physiology. I inquired of Professor Schroff and his assistant if they knew of any phrenologist in Vienna, or where Dr. Gall had lived; but they could not mention one individual who studied the doctrine, and they knew nobody who recollected Dr. Gall's place of residence. In the Physiological collection I found a skull marked very correctly according to Dr. Gall's system, as taught by himself many years before his death, but nothing was known about its history. There were a good many skulls in the museum, but the mental characters of their owners were unknown. This single marked cranium was the sole memorial of Dr. Gall and his system which could be found in the Josepheum.

Dr. Seiler of Dresden had given me a letter to Herr Frederick Volke, one of the first booksellers in Vienna, requesting him to inform me of the names of any persons who interested themselves in Phrenology here, and to find out where Dr. Gall had lived, for my satisfaction. One of the gentlemen in his shop, to whom I delivered the letter on the day of my arrival, kindly undertook this duty, and at the distance of a week I called again to learn what progress he had made. He had inquired at his medical friends, but not one of them knew of any one who was a phrenologist, or where Gall had lived. An aged physician is at Ischl with the Emperor, who probably knew Gall, and could tell where he lived; but Ischl is 150 miles from Vienna, and it is too far to go to ask this question.

I was introduced to Dr. Folwarczny, Médecin en chef de

l'Institut pour les Fous, who shewed me the public Lunatic Asylum for Paupers. It is the most imperfect that I have seen on the Continent. It was built by the Emperor Joseph at a time when the insane were treated as outcasts of society, and it is on the plan of a prison. It is a circular building of five floors: the cells occupy the circumference, and the centre contains the stair and a circular passage. Each cell has an iron grated window, and exactly opposite to it an iron grated door opening into the circular passage. The window is so high that the patients cannot look out of it; and there is a strong wooden door in addition to the one of iron to inclose each cell. A cell may be about ten or twelve feet long, and as many broad, and two patients are confined in each. They have no work inside, and no garden or other means of labour out of doors. There are two small yards, one for the men, and one for the women, like the court-yards of a prison, but no occupation or amusement is provided. The cells were perfectly clean, and I saw the cooking and also the food, which is nutritious and abundant. The consequences of this mode of treatment were very apparent. I never in my life saw so many patients under personal restraint. One man was manacled and chained, and a very large proportion compared with that which is seen in other institutions were tied down on their beds. There was a prodigious noise proceeding from the cells, the creatures were roaring, singing, bellowing, and raging, and in high excitement. The causes of their maladies bore distressing testimony to the prevalence of licentiousness in the country. A very large proportion of the patients, both male and female, were the victims of abuse of the sexual propensity (Erotomania and Nymphomania), and some of jealousy. The number of cases of Nymphomania was distressingly great. There were a good many instances of Delirium Tremens; a few melancholy and suicidal monomaniacs; and extremely few labouring under religious insanity. The great public Hospital or Infirmary is close adjoining to the Lunatic Asylum, and I visited the wards, bath-house, laboratory and kitchen of it, and found them all well appointed.

I was introduced also to Dr. Kokilansky, Professeur d'Anatomie pathologique, and found a large collection of skulls in his museum illustrating different forms of disease in the bones of the cranium; but no record of the mental qualities of the individuals had been kept.

I inquired again at these gentlemen whether they knew any one who studied Phrenology in Vienna, and was told that they did not; and that they believed that it was entirely extinct in the Austrian empire. From all of these gentlemen, as well as from Dr. Willerding and Dr. Winternitz, I received every possible

attention and information. They carefully avoided all remarks regarding the government, and I was equally silent on this subject.

I have visited the public gardens, theatres, concerts, picture galleries and museums of Vienna, and if one were to look only at the cheap and refined pleasure which is offered in them to the public, and of which the public largely and heartily partakes, he might consider the Austrians happy in the ignorance in which they are enveloped, and believe that the strifes, animosities, and discontent which generally accompany political liberty, are too high a price to pay for freedom. I conversed with the governor of a large and important Austrian town, and he roundly maintained this doctrine, and asserted that the people of Vienna were far happier than those of London, Manchester, or Edinburgh, and that any demagogues who should persuade them that they were not so, and who should teach them to refer all the sufferings of their lives to their government, would be their greatest enemies. But I have conversed also with educated and intelligent men who were not in the employment of government in any situation, and have heard a different tale. În mentioning to one gentleman the state of Phrenology in England and Paris, and expressing my surprise at its non-existence here, his answer was-"It is the philosophy only of free countries here we dare not study it." On asking a medical gentleman of reputation why the government did not improve the Lunatic Asylum, and place it on a par with similar institutions in other countries; he replied, "No man who should request to have it improved, and assign as a reason that it was inferior to the asylums of France, England, or Saxony, would be listened to. To improve such an institution would be to admit imperfection, and therefore it must continue as it is." I expressed to a medical man whom I found to be very polite and intelligent, a hope that I might have the pleasure of meeting him again in Scotland. His reply was— "I should desire it much; you are free, and may go where you please, but here we must ask permission, and often it is not granted. Two of my friends wished to visit England at their own expense, they were refused passports, and told, You can learn everything connected with your profession here, why then go to countries where you will only waste time, spend your money, and bring home false notions?" While these observations were made, the speaker whispered into my ear, and looked round anxiously to see that no one was within hearing. Another told me that the emperor is imbecile, and that although he speaks four or five languages, he is a mere passive instrument in the hands of Prince Metternich and other two ministers, who are called the

triumvirs or three tyrants. The priests are allowed to rule the people as they please, provided they do not interfere with the government politics. I withhold the names of the gentlemen who expressed these sentiments, because they might be called to account for them, so watchful are the rulers.

From these facts it appears that the Austrian government sits like a nightmare on the intellects of the people; and that if a man possess an active and vigorous mind, he must here suffer the worst of all tortures, that of being doomed to hopeless inactivity. Nature may bestow men like Dr. Adam Smith and Dr. Gall on Austria, but she will silence them, or send them into banishment. I perceive that this degradation is felt, and a prophet is not needed to tell that it cannot be permanent.

I next visited a private lunatic asylum for patients of the higher classes; it is named "Irrenheitanstalt des Med. Doctor Göerger in Döbling." The board in this establishment is 6s., 8s., and 10s. sterling a day, according to the extent of accommodation. It is a large handsome house, situated on a rising ground about three miles from Vienna, and it commands a most delicious view of a rich and variegated country. The apartments are large, light, and handsome. There are no bars or external means of confinement, except on the windows, which are elegantly grated. An extensive garden and pleasureground are attached to the establishment, with baths and musicroom, and every apartment is heated and ventilated by means of pipes conveying hot and cold air from the lower story. The necessary restraint is supplied by a watchful superintendence of servants. The patients are allowed to go excursions in carriages and on foot when they can profit by it. The resident assistant, Dr. Benesch, possesses excellent moral and intellectual organs, and he showed us the establishment, and explained all its arrangements.

I am, &c.

VIENNA, 23d July, 1837.

SIR,-I wrote to you on the 20th of July, that no phrenologist could be found in Vienna; but I have now to report that "nothing is denied to well directed industry." I continued my researches, and at last was introduced by Herr Wolfe, of the Imperial Library, to Baron Hammer Purgstall. This gentleman had studied under Dr. Gall, and been satisfied that his doctrine is true, and he therefore entertains a respect for it, and knew me by reputation, although he has not seen my books.