Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory

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Cambridge University Press, 2000 - 368 страници
Publisher Description (unedited publisher data) During the late sixteenth century 'fashion' first took on the sense of restless change in contrast to the older sense of fashioning or making. As fashionings, clothes were perceived as material forms of personal and social identity which made the man or woman. In Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory Jones and Stallybrass argue that the making and transmission of fabrics and clothing were central to the making of Renaissance culture. Their examination explores the role of clothes as forms of memory transmitted from master to servant, from friend to friend, from lover to lover. This book offers a close reading of literary texts, paintings, textiles, theatrical documents, and ephemera to reveal how clothing and textiles were crucial to the making and unmaking of concepts of status, gender, sexuality, and religion in the Renaissance. The book is illustrated with a wide range of images from portraits to embroidery. Winner of The 2001 James Russell Lowell Prize, for 'an outstanding book by a member of the Modern Language Association. Library of Congress subject headings for this publication: Costume History 16th century, Fashion History 16th century, Renaissance.

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Съдържание

fashion fetishism and memory in early modern England and Europe
1
Material subjects
15
1 The currency of clothing
17
making portraits
34
fabrications of the Jacobean court
59
Gendered habits
87
Velázquezs Las Hilanderas
89
Penelope and the Three Fates
104
7 The circulation of clothes and the making of the English theater
175
speculating on the boy actor
207
Griselda clothing and the exchange of women
220
the materiality of memory on the Renaissance stage
245
the ends of livery
269
Notes
278
Bibliography
329
Index
355

needlework and the appropriation of printed texts
134
Staging clothes
173

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