Chelsea.] THE BEAUTIFUL DUCHESS OF DEVONSHIRE. 81 temporary octagon kind of building, erected about a table of eighteen covers was laid for the Royal twenty yards below the Rotunda, lined with striped Family. Opposite to Her Majesty's box was a linen of the different-coloured flags of the navy, light temple or stage, on which a Spanish dance ornamented with streamers of the same kind loosely was performed by children; at another part were flowing, and lustres hanging between each. This beautiful moving transparencies; and a third was room discovered great taste. At half after ten a lottery of valuable trinkets, consisting of six the Rotunda was opened for supper, which dis- hundred prizes. Women, ornamented with wreaths played three circular tables, of different elevations, of flowers, made tea; and one hundred valets, in elegantly set out. The Rotunda was finely illu- scarlet and gold, and as many footmen, in sky-blue minated with parti-coloured lamps; the centre was and silver, waited on the company." solely appropriated for one of the fullest and finest bands of music, vocal and instrumental, ever collected in these kingdoms, the number being 240, in which were included the first masters, led by Giardini, and the whole directed by Mr. Simpson. Supper being over, a part of the company retired to the Temple, where they danced without any regard to precedence; while others entertained themselves in the great room. Several temporary structures were erected in the gardens, such as bridges, palm-trees, &c., which were intended to discover something novel in the illumination style, but the badness of the evening prevented their being exhibited." In 1802 an afternoon breakfast was given here, under the auspices of the Pic-Nic Society, at which about two thousand persons of distinction were present. On this occasion M. Garnerin and Captain Snowden made an ascent in a balloon, and alighted at Colchester in less than an hour. "This," as Hone in his "Year-Book" observes, "was the most memorable ascent in England from the time of Lunardi." In the following year a magnificent ball was held in the Rotunda; it was given by the knights of the Order of the Bath, on the occasion of an "installation," and is said to have been a "gala of uncommon splendour." But even this was surpassed in brilliancy by an entertainment given shortly afterwards by the Spanish Ambassador. "The whole external front of the house," we read, "was illuminated in a novel manner, and the portico immediately leading to the Rotunda was filled on each side with rows of aromatic shrubs. The Rotunda itself, at the first opening to the sight, exhibited a most superb appearance. The lower boxes formed a Spanish camp, striped blue and red, each tent guarded by a boy dressed in the Spanish uniform. The gallery formed a Temple of Flora, lighted by a number of gold baskets containing wax tapers. The queen's box was hung with crimson satin, lined with white, which hung in festoons richly fringed with gold, and at the top was a regal crown. In the orchestra, which was converted into a magnificent pavilion, From about the year 1780 down to the close of the last century Ranelagh was in the height of its glory. It was visited by royalty, and all the nobility and gentry. "As no place was ever better calculated for the display of female beauty and elegance," writes Mr. Faulkner, in his work above quoted, "it followed, of course, the greatest belles of the day frequented Ranelagh, at the head of whom was the celebrated and beautiful Duchess of Devonshire, a lady eminent for every grace that could adorn the female, and not a few candidates for admiration were in her train." The Rotunda was subsequently used for late evening concerts, and as an assembly-room, and the gardens for the display of fireworks and other out-door amusements. The place soon ceased to be the attractive promenade it had formerly been, and the brilliant display of beauty it had made for years was no more. The whole of the premises were taken down about the year 1805. Many persons will remember the description of the ideal "Old Gentleman," in Hone's "TableBook." "He has been induced to look in at 'Vauxhall' again, but likes it still less than he did years back, and cannot bear it in comparison with Ranelagh! He thinks everything looks poor, flaring, and jaded. 'Ah!' says he, with a sort of triumphant sigh, ah! Ranelagh was a noble place! Such taste! such elegance! and such beauty! There was the Duchess of A-, the finest woman in England, sir; and Mrs. B——, a mighty fine creature; and Lady Susan what's-her-name, who had that unfortunate affair with Sir Charles. Yes, indeed, sir, they came swimming by you like swans. Ranelagh for me!"" Whether it be true or not that ladies of bon ton "came swimming by you like swans," there can be no doubt that Ranelagh, in its palmy days, was a favourite haunt of the "upper ten thousand," and that "duchesses" and "Lady Susans" in plenty jostled there against the troops of plebeian City and country dames. A writer in the Connoisseur (No. 22) complains: "The modest excesses of these times [the reign of George II.] are in their nature the same with those which were formerly in vogue. The present races The present races on were marks against a garden wall, indicating of 'bucks,' 'bloods,' and 'free-thinkers' are but the that the water-boilers for tea and coffee had once spawn of the Mohocks and Hell-fire Clubs; and if been heated there. I traced, too, the site of the our modern fine ladies have had their masquerades, orchestra, where I had often been ravished by their Vauxhalls, their Sunday tea-drinking at Rane- the finest performances of vocal and instrumental lagh, and their morning chocolate in the Haymarket, music. My imagination brought the objects before they have only improved upon the 'Ring,' the me; I fancied I could still hear an air of Mara's. Spring Gardens, the New Exchange assignations, I turned my eye aside, and what a contrast apand the morning Puppet-show, which enjoyed the peared! No glittering lights! no brilliant happy attention of their grandmothers. And so, as it is company! no peals of laughter from thronged not apparent that our people of fashion are more boxes! no chorus of a hundred instruments and wicked, so neither are they more wise than their voices! All was death-like stillness! Is such, I predecessors." The fall of Ranelagh-like other exclaimed, the end of human splendour? Yes, enchanting places of amusement, the description of truly, all is vanity; and here is a striking example. whose assemblages give us such graphic pictures Here are ruins and desolation, even without of the frail beauties of the last century-is thus antiquity! I am not mourning, said I, over the mournfully set forth in Murphy's. "Prologue to remains of Babylon or Carthage-ruins sanctioned by the unsparing march of time; but here it was all glory and splendour, even yesterday! Here, but seven years have flown away, and I was myself one of three thousand of the gayest mortals ever assembled in one of the gayest scenes which the art of man could devise-ay, on this very spot; yet the whole is now changed into the dismal scene of desolation before me!" Zobeide : "Adieu, Almack's! Cornelys' masquerade! Sweet Ranelagh!" The picture of ruin and desolation which the site of Ranelagh presented after the demolition of the Rotunda and the dismantling of its gardens, is ably reproduced by Sir Richard Phillips, in his "Walk from London to Kew." "On entering Chelsea," he writes, "I was naturally led to inquire for the site of the once gay Ranelagh. I passed up the avenue of trees, which I remember often to have seen blocked up with carriages. At its extremity I looked for the Rotunda and its surrounding buildings; but, as I could not see them, I concluded that I had acquired but an imperfect idea of the place in my nocturnal visits! I went forward, on an open space, but still could discern no Ranelagh. At length, on a spot covered with nettles, thistles, and other rank weeds, I met a working man, who, in answer to my inquiries, told me that he could see I was a stranger, or I should have known that Ranelagh had been pulled down, and that I was then standing on the site of the Rotunda! Reader, imagine my feelings, for I cannot analyse them! This vile place, I exclaimed, the site of the once enchanting Ranelagh It cannot be! The same eyes were never destined to see such a metamorphosis! All was desolation! A few inequalities appeared in the ground, indicative of some former building, and holes filled with muddy water showed the foundation-walls; but the rest of the space, making about two acres, was covered with clusters of tall nettles, thistles, and docks. On a more accurate survey I traced the circular foundation of the Rotunda, and at some distance discovered the broken arches of some cellars, once filled with the choicest wines, but now with dirty water. Further Although not a vestige of the gardens remains, its memory is preserved by naming after it some of the streets, roads, and places which have been built near its site. Mr. Jesse, in his work on "London," published in 1871, tells us that "a single avenue of trees, formerly illuminated by a thousand lamps, and over-canopying the wit, the rank, and the beauty of the last century, now forms an almost solitary memento of the departed glories of Ranelagh. Attached to these trees, the author discovered one or two solitary iron fixtures, from which the variegated lamps were formerly suspended." According to Mr. John Timbs' "Club Life of London," there was subsequently opened in the neighbourhood a New Ranelagh; but it would appear to have been short-lived, as its memory has quite passed away. Such, however, was the celebrity of the old Ranelagh, that another Ranelagh, like a second Salamis, was established in the suburbs of Paris; as witness the following extract from a French writer in 1875:— "The name of Ranelagh Gardens, almost forgotten in England, will soon be equally so in Paris. Or rather, it would be, but for the inscription on the neighbouring street, preserving a title which no revolution need trouble to alter. Some alterations now undertaken by the Parisian authorities in the street recall to mind the chequered fortunes of the French Ranelagh. It was started in the summer of 1774 by a simple gardener of the Bois de Boulogne as a private speculation, the name, of course, being borrowed from Chelsea. The gardener was patronised by the Prince de Soubise, and the concerts and balls were at first a great But the novelty died out, and about nine years afterwards the proprietor was fain to escape ruin by becoming manager to a private club, with a more select clientèle. Thenceforth, till the Revolution, the place was a success. Marie Antoinette had been seen there, and the club invitations were much sought after. The Republic, pure and simple, would have been fatal to the gardens had not the Directory come to the rescue. Under its less rigid régime came Trénitz, with his troop of Muscadins and Merveilleuses. Morisart died just before the fall of the Empire, and in time to escape the sight of the Cossacks trampling his pet flower-beds and lawns. From 1816 to 1830 another aristocratic club held its réunions at Ranelagh, and under the Orleans dynasty it became again a public place of entertainment. At last came M. Thiers' scheme of fortifying Paris, and his ramparts cut the gardens in half. This was in 1840; and twenty years later a decree suppressed for ever the last lingering vestige of gaiety, and consigned the ground to building purposes." Queen's Road West (formerly called Paradise Row) has been the residence of many of the "nobility and gentry" of Chelsea in former times. In a large mansion adjoining Robinson's Lane, lived the Earl of Radnor in the time of Charles II., and here his lordship entertained the king "most sumptuously" in September, 1660. The parish register contains several entries of baptisms and deaths in the Radnor family. Sir Francis Windham had a house in this road at the commencement of the last century. After the battle of Worcester he entertained Charles II. at Trent, where the king remained concealed for several days. Dr. Richard Mead, the eminent physician, of whom we have already spoken in our account of Great Ormond Street,* resided in this neighbourhood for some time, as appears by the parish books. Another physician of note who lived here about the same time was Dr. Alexander Blackwell, who resided in a house near the Botanic Garden. Dr. Blackwell became involved in difficulties; and after leaving Chelsea he went to Sweden, where he was appointed physician to the king. Subsequently, however, he was found guilty of high treason, "in plotting to overturn the con See Vol. IV., p. 560. 83 stitution of the kingdom, and sentenced to be broken alive on the wheel." In the Queen's Road, adjoining the Royal Hospital, with its gardens stretching down towards the river, and close by the spot where formerly stood the residence of Sir Robert Walpole, is the Victoria Hospital for Sick Children. The building, which was converted to its present use in 1866, was formerly known as Gough House. It was built by John, Earl of Carberry-one of the "noble authors" mentioned by Horace Walpole-at the commencement of the last century. The estate afterwards came into the possession of the Gough family, and the house subsequently was made use of for many years as a school for young ladies. The house has since been raised a storey, and additional wards have been provided. These improvements were effected at an expense of about £3,000, and the hospital was formally re-opened by the Princess Louise. At the eastern end of Queen's Road, forming one side of a broad and open thoroughfare, connecting Sloane Street with new Chelsea Bridge, stand some fine barracks for the Foot Guards, erected about the year 1863. They are constructed in a substantial manner with light-coloured brick, relieved with rustic quoins of red brick, and they consist of several commodious blocks of buildings, the largest of which contains quarters for the officers, &c. They afford accommodation for about 1,000 men. It has been said, perhaps with some truth till lately, that this is the only handsome structure in the way of barracks to be seen in the entire metropolis. If so, the assertion is not very creditable to our character as a nation, considering the duties that we owe to those who defend our homes and our commerce in the field. In 1809, the Serpentine - which joined the Thames by Ranelagh-rose so high as to overflow its banks, and boats were employed in carrying passengers between the old Bun-house and Chelsea Hospital. Mr. Larwood, in his "History of Sign-boards," says that there is, or, at all events, was in 1866, in Bridge Row, a public-house bearing the sign of the "Chelsea Water-works." These water-works, after which it was named, were constructed about the year 1724. A canal was dug from the Thames, near Ranelagh to Pimlico, where an engine was placed for the purpose of raising the water into pipes, which conveyed it to Chelsea, Westminster, and other parts of western London. The reservoirs in Hyde Park and the Green Park were supplied by pipes from the Chelsea Waterworks, which, in 1767, yielded daily 1,750 tons of water. Chelsea Farm, the Residence of Lord Cremorne-Cremorne Gardens-Attempts at Aërial Navigation-Ashburnham House-The Ashburnham Tournament-The "Captive" Balloon-Turner's Last Home-Noted Residents in Lindsey Row-The King's Road-The Old Burial-ground -St. Mark's College-The "World's End" Tavern-Chelsea Common-Famous Nurseries-Chelsea Park-The "Goat in Boots "-The Queen's Elm-The Jews' Burial-ground-Shaftesbury House-The Workhouse-Sir John Cope-Robert Boyle, the Philosopher and Chemist-The Earl of Orrery-Mr. Adrian Haworth-Dr. Atterbury-Shadwell, the Poet-The "White Horse" Inn-Mr. H. S. Woodfall-The Original of "Strap the Barber" in "Roderick Random "-Danvers Street-Justice Walk-The Old Wesleyan ChapelChelsea China-Lawrence Street-Tobias Smollett-Old Chelsea Stage-coaches-Sir Richard Steele and other Noted Residents-The Old Clock-house-The Glaciarium-Hospital for Diseases of Women-Chelsea Vestry Hall, and Literary and Scientific Institution-Congregational Church-Royal Avenue Skating-rink-Sloane Square-Bloody Bridge-Chelsea, Brompton, and Belgrave Dispensary-Royal Court Theatre-Hans Town-Sloane Street-Trinity Church-Sloane Terrace Wesleyan Chapel-Sir C. W. Dilke, Bart.-Ladies' Work SocietyHans Town School of Industry for Girls-"Count Cagliostro "-An Anecdote of Professor Porson-Chelsea House-St. Mary's Roman Catholic Chapel-The "Marlborough Tavern "-Hans Place-Miss Letitia E. Landon-The Pavilion-St. Saviour's Church-Prince's Cricket-ground and Skating-rink-The "South Australian." A FEW hundred yards to the west of Battersea | by George III., Queen Charlotte, and the Prince of Bridge, on the north side of the river, were the celebrated Cremorne Gardens, so named after Thomas Dawson, Lord Cremorne, the site of whose former suburban residence and estate they covered. They proved, to a very great extent, the successors of "Kuper's," Vauxhall, and Ranelagh. In the early part of the present century, Lord Cremorne's mansion, known as Chelsea Farm, was often visited Wales. In 1825 the house and grounds devolved on Mr. Granville Penn, a cousin of Lady Cremorne, who much improved the estate, but subsequently disposed of it. The natural beauty of the situation soon afterwards led to the grounds being opened to the public as the "Stadium," and a few years later the gardens were laid out with great taste; the tavern adjoining them was enlarged, and the place at Vauxhall Gardens in its palmy days: such as vocal and instrumental concerts, balloon ascents, dancing, fireworks, &c. Several remarkable balloon ascents were made from these grounds, notably among them being that of Mr. Hampton, who, in 1839, ascended with a balloon and parachute, by which he descended from a height of about two miles. More recently an attempt at aerial navigation was made from Cremorne by a foreigner, M. de Groof. The apparatus was suspended beneath the car of a balloon, and when the aeronaut had reached a considerable height, the machine was liberated; but owing to some defect in its construction, it immediately collapsed and fell to the ground with a fearful crash, killing its unfortunate occupant on the spot. Stanhope, afterwards Earl of Harrington. A strip of waste ground between Ashburnham House and the river, called the "Lots," was for many years "a bone of contention" between the residents in the neighbourhood and the Chelsea Vestry, in consequence of the disgraceful scenes carried on by a large number of "roughs" who were in the habit of meeting there. Here, in 1863, in a large pavilion prettily draped with the flags of all nations and a variety of heraldic trophies and allegorical devices, a sensational entertainment on a scale of great splendour was given, in the shape of a revival of the Eglinton "tournament." A large number of persons took part in it as heralds, seneschals, yeomen, pages, men-at-arms, squires, and bannerbearers, clad in an almost endless variety of shining |