by the ufurper Donald Bane. In 1128, K. David thence it defcends obliquely to the Weft port I. founded the Abbey of Holyrood-house, for cer- then afcends part of a hill on the other fide, cal tain canons regular; and granted them a charter, led the High Riggs; after which, it runs E. with in which he ftyled the town Burgo meo de Ed- but little alteration in its course, to the Brifto avinefburg. "my borough of Edinburgh." By the and Potter Row ports, and from thence to the fame charter he granted thefe canons 40 fh. yearly Pleafance. Here it takes a northerly direction; out of the town's revenues; with 48 fh. more, which it keeps from thence, to the Cowgate port, from the fame, in cafe of the failure of certain du- after which the inclosure is completed to the Neties payable from the king's revenue; and one half therbow by the houfes of St Mary's wynd. The of the tallow, and hides, of all the beasts killed in original Netherbow port, being found not well a Edinburgh. In 1174, the caftle of Edinburgh was dapted for defence, was pulled down, and a new furrendered to Henry II. of England, to purchase one built in 1571 by the adherents of queen Mary. the liberty of K. William I. who had been taken In 1605, the late handfome building was erected prifoner by the English. But William afterwards about 50 yards below the place where the former entered into an alliance with Henry, and married food. It was two stories high, and had an ele his coufin Ermengarde; upon which the caftle was gant fpire in the middle; but being thought to reftored as part of the queen's dower. See § 9. encumber the ftreet, and the whole building being (3) EDINBURGH, ANCIENT DIMENSIONS OF. in a crazy fituation, it was pulled down by order The gradual increase of the city of Edinburgh of the magiftrates in 1764. In the original wall of may in fome degree be understood from the traces Edinburgh there was a port on the castle-hill. of its ancient walls that ftill remain. James II. On the extenfion of the wall, after building the in 1450, firft bestowed on the community the houfes in the Cowgate, this gate was pulled down privilege of fortifying the city with a wall, and That in the Upper or Weft Bow ftood for a much empowered them to levy a tax upon the inhabi, longer time, and was pulled down within the me tants for defraying the expenfe. When the city mory of fome perfons lately or perhaps ftill living." was firft fortified, the wall reached no further than Befides thefe, there was a third, above 50 yards a the prefent water-house, or refervoir, on the caftle bove the head of Canon gate; but whether there hill: from thence to the foot of Halkerftone's were any more, or not, is uncertain. The ports or wynd, juft below the North bridge, the city was gates of the walls were, 1. The Weft port, fituated defended by the North loch. From this place at the extremity of the Grafs-market; beyond which to the foot of Leith wynd, it does not now appear lies a fuburb of the town and a borough of regality, how the city was fortified; but from the foot of called Portfburgh. Next to this is a wicket, ftruck Leith wynd to the Nether-bow port it was defend- out of the town wall, in 1744, for the purpose of ed only by a range of houfes; and when these had making an eafier communication between the become ruinous, a wall was built in their place. town and the public walks in the meadows, than The original wall of Edinburgh, therefore, began by Brifto port. The next to this was Brifio port at the foot of the NE rock of the cafle. Here built in 1515; beyond which lies a fuburb called it was ftrengthened by a small fortrefs, the ruins Briflo freet. At a small diftance from Brifto was of which are fill to be feen, and are called the the Potter-row Port, which took this name from well boufe tower, from their having a fpring in a manufactory of earthen ware in the neighbourtheir neighbourhood. When the wall came op hood. Formerly it was called Kirk of Field Port. pofite to the refervoir, it was carried quite acrofs Between this and the Cowgate port ftood another, the hill, having a gate on the top for making a called St Mary's Wynd Port, which extended from communication between the town and caftle. In E. to W. across the foot of the Pleafance, and going down the hill, it went flanting in an oblique which was demolished before the end of the laft direction to the firft angle in going down the Weft century.-Clofe to the middle of this stood the Bow, where was a gate named the Upper bow port, Cowgate Port; which opened with a communica one of the hooks of which still remains. Thence tion between the Cowgate and St Mary's wynd, it proceeded eastward in fuch a manner, as would and the Pleafance.-At the foot of Leith wynd have cut off not only all the Cowgate, but fome was another gate called Leith Wynd Pert; and withpart of the parliament houfe; and being continued in it was a wicket giving access to the church of as far as the mint clofe, it turned to the NE. and Trinity College, and which ftill remains. At was connected with the buildings on the N. fide the foot of Halkerfton's wynd was another, which, of the high ftreet, where was the original Nether as well as the former, was built about 1560. bow port about 50 yards W. from that which Both of these were pulled down fome years ago, afterwards went by the fame name. Soon after and all the rest in 1785. A fingle arch still remaine the building of this wall, a new freet was formed at the foot of the Canongate, called the Water on the outfide of it, named the Cowgate, which, rate. For 250 years the city of Edinburgh occuin the 16th century became the refidence of the pied the fame space of ground. In the middle of nobility, the fenators of the college of juftice, and the 16th century, it is defcribed as extending in other perfons of the firft diftinétion. After the length about an Italian mile, and about half as fatal battle of Flowden, however, the inhabitants much in breadth; which answers very nearly to its of the Cowgate became very anxious to have them- prefent limits, the late enlargements only exceptfelves defended by a wall as well as the reft. ed. This fpace of ground, however, was not at The wall of the city was therefore extended to its that time occupied in the manner it is at present. prefent limits. This new wall begins on the SE. The houfes were neither fo high nor fo crowded Gde of the rock on which the caftle is built, and upon each other as they are now. These were con to which the town wall comes quite clofe. From fequences of the number of inhabitants increafing,

EDI

( 3

which occafioned the raifing of the houfes to fuch an height, as perhaps is not to be paralleled in any other part of the world. Till the Reformation, the burying ground of the city extended over all the fpace occupied by the Parliament clofe, and from these to the Cowgate. The lands lying S. of the Cowgate were chiefly laid out in gardens belonging to the convent of Black Friars, and the church of St Mary in the Field. These extended almoft from the Pleasance to the Potterrow port. From the Brifto to the Weft Port the ground was laid out in gardens belonging to the Gray Friars. The magiftrates on applying to queen Mary, obtained a grant of the Gray-friars gardens for a burying place. In the time of James I. the houses within the walls feem to have been in general, if not univerfally, covered with thatch or broom; and not above 20 feet high. Even in 1621, thefe roofs were fo common, that they were prohibited by act of parliament, in order to prevent accidents from fire.-In the middle of the laft century, there were neither courts nor fquares, in Edinburgh. The Parliament clofe or fquare is the oldest of this kind in the city. Miln's fquare, James's court, &c. were built long after; Argyle's fquare within these 60 years, and Brown's fquare within thefe 40.

TYMOLOGIES OF.

(4) EDINBURGH, ANCIENT NAMES AND EThe origin of the name, like that of most other cities, is very uncertain. Some imagine it to be derived from Éth, a king of the Picts; others from Edwin, a Saxon prince of Northumberland, who over-ran the whole or greatest part of the territories of the Picts about A. D. 617; while others derive it from the Gaelic words, Dun Edin, fignifying the face of a hill. The name Edinburgh, however, feems to have been unknown in the time of the Romans. The moft ancient title by which we find this city diftinguished is that of Caftelh Mynyd Agned; which, in the Britifh language fignifies, "the fortrefs of the hill of St Agnes." Afterwards it was named Caftrum Puellarum, because the Pictish princeffes were educated in the castle (a neceffary protection in those barbarous ages) till they were married.The ages in which thefe names were given cannot now be exactly ascertained, but we cannot agree with the inference drawn by Mr Whittaker, against the antiquity of this city, from the battle faid to have been fought on the spot by king Arthur in the 5th century. That battle might have been fought on the S. or N. fides of the town, or on the low ground where the Canongate now fands, and yet the city itself have been built and inhabited many centuries before; which in all probability it was, on account of the protection afforded by the caftle, the antiquity of which is undoubted. See $5.

(5.) EDINBURGH, CASTLE OF. The caftle ftands on a high rock, acceffible only on the E. fide. On all others it is very steep, and in fome places perpendicular. It is about 300 feet high from its bafe: fo that before the invention of artillery, it might have well been deemed impregnable: tho' the event fhowed that it was not. The entry to this fortrefs is defended by an outer barrier of pallifadoes; within this is a dry ditch, draw-bridge, and gate, defended by two batteries which flank

)

EDI

it; and the whole is commanded by an half moon
mounted with cannon, carrying balls of 12 pounds.
Beyond thefe are two gate-ways, the first of which
is very ftrong, and has two portcullifes. Imme-
diately beyond the fecond gate-way, on the right
hand, is a battery mounted with cannon, carry-
ing balls of 12 and 18 lb. weight. On the N. fide
are a mortar and fome gun batteries. The upper
part of the castle contains a half-moon battery, a
chapel, a parade for exercise, and a number of
houfes in the form of a fquare, which are laid out
in barracks for the officers. There are alfo other
barracks fufficient to contain icoo men; a pow-
der magazine, bomb-proof; a grand arfenal, ca-
pable of containing 8000 ftand of arms; and
other apartments which can contain full 22,000
more: fo that 30,000 ftand of arms may be con-
veniently lodged in this caftle. And within these
4 years additional barracks have been built at the
back of the governor's houfe. On the E. fide of
the fquare were formerly royal apartments; in
one of which king James VI. was born, and
which is ftill fhown to thofe who vifit the caftle.
In another, the regalia of Scotland were depofit-
ed on the 26th March, 1707, and were long fup-
pofed to be still kept there; but were never shown.
Hence a fufpicion arose that they had been pri-
vately carried to London; which was confirmed
by the keeper of the jewel office in the tower of
London fhowing a crown, which he calls the
Crown of Scotland: within these few years, how-
ever, the Crown Room was opened by lord Adam
Gordon, in prefence of fome noblemen, who
found only a leaden cheft containing a few old
charters. The governor of the castle is generally
a nobleman, whofe place is worth about 1cool.
a-year; and that of deputy governor, sool. This
laft refides in the house appointed for the gover-
nor, as the latter never inhabits it. There is alfo
a fort-major, a ftore-keeper, mafter gunner, and
chaplain; but as this laft does not refide in the
caftle, worship is feldom performed in the chapel.
The parliament houfe was formerly included in
the great fquare on the top, and the royal gar-
dens were in the marsh afterwards called the
North Loch; the king's ftables being on the fouth
fide, where the houfes ftill retain the name, and
the place, where the barns were, ftill retains the
name of Cafle-barns. The caftle is defended by
a company of invalids, and about 500 men belong-
ing to fome marching regiment, though it can ac-
commodate 1000, and this number has been
fometimes kept in it. Its natural strength of fitu-
ation was not fufficient to render it impregnable,
even before the invention of artillery, much lefs
would it be capable of fecuring it against the at-
tacks of a modern army well provided with can-
non. It could not, in all probability, long with-
ftand a well directed bombardment: for no part
but the powder magazine is capable of refifting
these deftructive machines. Befides, the water
of the well, which is very bad, and drawn up
from a depth of 100 feet, is apt to fubfide on the
continued difcharge of artillery, which produces
a concuffion in the rock; though this deficiency
has been fupplied of late years by a pipe from the
city refervoir.

(6.) EDINBURGH, CHURCHES OF.
A 2

St Giles's

Church

within doors in his majesty's prefence; it being the duty of the earl marfhal to do the fame without. The feats belonging to the lords of council and feffion are on the right of the lord high conftable; and on the left of the throne was a feat for the lord high chancellor of Scotland, whofe office is now abolished. On the left of this fit the barons of exchequer; and, to the left of them, the lord provoft, magiftrates, and town-council. The pul pit, king's feat, and galleries, are covered with crimfon velvet with gold and filk fringes. The aifle of St Giles's church is fitted up with feats for the general affembly who meet here; and there is a throne for his majefty's commiffioner with a canopy of crimson filk damask, having the king's arms embroidered with gold, prefented by the late lord Cathcart to his fucceffor in office. In this church is a monument dedicated to the memory of the celebrated lord NAPIER, the inventor of logarithms; another to the earl of Murray, regent of Scotland during the minority of James VI. and a 3d to the great marquis of Montrofe. The names of the 4 churches, into which St Giles's is divided, are, the New, or High Church, above described; the Old Church; the New North Church, or Haddow's Hold, fo named from the Laird of Haddow having been for fome time imprifoned in it; and the Tolbooth Church. The Trone Church, whofe original and proper name is Chri's Church, though it is now hardly known by that name, is an elegant structure erected in 1641, with a fpire, on the S. fide of the High Street, in Hunter Square, between the N. and S. bridges. As part of this church projected several feet caftward upon the road between the bridges, the walls were taken down and rebuilt, and the projection cut off. Lady Yefter's Church is fitu ted on the W. fide of the High School Wynd, and NE. of the Royal Infirmary, It owes its origin to the piety of Dame Margaret Kerr, Lady Yef. ter, who in 1647 gave to the council and citizens of Edinburgh 15,000 merks for that purpose. The Old and New Gray Friars churches are fituated on the top of the S. ridge, E. af Heriot's Hofpital, nearly in the middle of the ancient gardens belonging to the Gray Friars; which have been occupied as the common burying ground fince 1561, and ornamented with many fine monuments round the walls, These churches are of equal length, and both under one roof, and have one common portico; but are feparated by a partition wall. The old Gray Friars was founded about 1612, and had a steeple, which was blown up in 1718, owing to fome gun-powder having been lodged in it belonging to the town. Instead of rebuilding the fteeple, the New Gray Friars church was built adjoining to it, and upon part of its fite, the old church being fhortened a little for that purpose in 1719. The expenfe of this church was L 3,045. The Trinity College Church was founded by Q. Mary, wife of king James II. in 1461, at the fame time with the Trinity Hofpital. (See

Church is a beautiful Gothic building, meafuring in length 206 feet. At the W. end, its breadth is 110 feet, in the middle, 129; and at the E. end, 76. It has a very elevated fituation, and is adorn ed with a lofty fquare tower; from the fides and corners of which rife arches of figured stone work: thefe meeting with each other in the middle, complete the figure of an imperial crown, the top of which terminates in a pointed spire. The whole height of this tower is 161 feet. This is the most ancient church in Edinburgh. From a paffage in an old author called Simeon Dunelmenfis, fome conjecture it to have been built before the year 854; but we do not find exprefs mention made of it before 1359. The tutelar faint of this church, and of Edinburgh, was ST GILES, a native of Greece. See GILES, ST. This church was at firft imply a parith church, of which the bishop of Lindisfarn or Holy Ifland, in the county of Northumberland, was patron. He was fucceeded in the patronage by the abbot and canons of Dunfermline, and they by the magiftrates of Edinburgh. in 1466, it was erected into a collegiate church by James III.-At the Reformation, the church was, for the greater convenience divided into feveral parts. The four principal divifions form as many churches appropriated to divine worthip; the leffer ones to other purposes. At the fare time the religious utenfils belonging to this urch were feized by the magistrates. They were-St Giles's arm, enfurined in filver, weighing 5 lb. 3oz. a filver chalice, or communion cup, weighing 23 oz. the great eucharist or communion cup, with golden aveike and flones; two cruets of 25 cz; a golden bell, with a heart, of 4 oz, a golden unico; a golden pix, to keep the hoft; a small golden heart, with two pearls; a diamond ring; a filver chalice, patine, and ipoon, of 321 oz.; à communion table-cloth of gold brocade; St Giles's coat, with a little piece of red velvet which hung at his feet; a round filver e charif: two filver cenfers, of 3 lb. 15 oz.; a filver Thip for incenfe; a large filver crofs, with its bafe, weighing 16lb. 13oz. a triangular filver lamp; two filver candlesticks, of 7 lb. 3 oz. other two, of 8 lb. 13 oz.; a filver chalice gilt, of zooz.; a filver chalice and crofs, of 75 oz. befides the priests robes, and other vestments, of gold brocade, crimfon velvet embroidered with gold, and green damafk.-These were fold, and part of the money applied to the repairs of the church; the rcft was added to the funds of the corporation. In the fteeple of St Giles's church are three large bells brought from Holland in 1621; the biggest weigh ing 2000 lb. the fecond co, and the third soo. There are alfo a fet of mufic bells, upon which tunes are played every day, except Sunday, between 1 and 2 o'clock, or at any time in the cafe of public rejoicings; being played by the hand, not by clock-work. The principal divifion is call ed the High Church, and has been lately repaired and new feated. There is a very elegant and finely ornamented royal feat, with a canopy fupport. 12.) It is fituated at the foot of Leith Wynd, ed by four Corinthian pillars, decorated in high 420 feet E. of the North Bridge. These churches tafte, which is ufed by the king's commiflioner give name to the 9 parishes into which the old during the time the General Affembly fits. On town is divided. St Andrew's Church itands on the right hand is a feat for the lord high conftable the N. fide of George's Street, in the New Town, Of Scotland, whofe office it is to keep the peace. It is of an oral form; and has a very neat fpire of

186 feet in height, with a chime of 8 bells, the firft
and only one of the kind in Scotland. It has alfo
a handsome portico in front. There are two
churches in the CANONGATE. The oldeft, which
is fituated about the middle of that ftreet on the
N. fide, has an open area around it, which ferves
as a burying ground. It was built in 1688, and
coft about 2400l. being the accumulated princi-
pal and interest of 20,000 merks left for that pur-
pofe, by a Mr Thomas Moodie. It was within
thefe few years repaired in a very elegant manner.
The other church is fituated in New Street, and
was finished in 1794. It is a very neat commo-
dious building. St Cuthbert's, or the Weft Kirk,
is fituated W. of the Caftle, in the middle of the
Weft Church-yard, a little E. from the head of
Prince's Street. It is large, elegant and commo-
dious, and was rebuilt on the fite of the old Weft
Kirk, within these 20 years. An elegant spire has
been fince added, which has a fine appearance
from the N. Bridge and Earthen Mound. The
Goelie Chapel, or Earfe Chruch at Edinburgh was
built about 30 years ago by fubfcription, for the
laudable purpofe of inftructing thofe who are lit-
tle acquainted with any language but Gaelic, in
the principles of Chriftianity. Great numbers of
people refort to the metropolis from the High.
lands, who understand no other language, and
confequently have no opportunity of inftruction
without it; and a moft remarkable proof of the
benefit they have received from it is, that though
the church is capable of holding 1000 people, yet
it is not large enough for those who apply for
feats in confequence of which another has been
latey built in Leith Wynd. The minifters have
about 100l. per annum arifing from the feat-rents,
and hold communion with the church of Scot
land. The establishment of the first of thefe was
promoted by William Dickfon dyer in Edinburgh,
Befides thefe churches, there is another, which,
though its minifter and congregation are in com-
munion with the church of Scotland, cannot be
ftrictly faid to be in the establishment, being nei-
ther a parish church, nor chapel of eafe, though
it certainly operates effentially in the latter capa-
city, by eafing the crowded churches in the city
of a part of their audiences. This is Lady Glen-
orchy's Chapel, which is fituated in the Orphan
Hofpital Park, E. of the North Bridge and W. of
the College Church. It was built in 1773 and 74.
at the fole expenfe of the late pious Wilhelmina
Maxwell, lady V. Glenorchy. It is neatly finish-
ed, and holds 2000 people, having two galleries,
which go round 3 fides of it. The middle part
of it is allotted to the poor, who fit there gratis;
a deficiency in other churches, which the bene.
volent foundrefs was anxious to fupply. Upon
what principle this church was refused to be ad-
mitted upon the establishment, it is not eafy to
fay; but it is certain, that though the prefbytery
of Edinburgh unanimoufly approved of Lady
Glenorchy's propofal, the fynod of Lothian and
Tweeddale not only gave a contrary decifion, but
even prohibited the minifters and probationers
within their bounds to preach in it. This illibe-
ral decifion, however, was reverfed, and matters
fetteld on their prefent footing by the General
Affembly in 1777- The English Chapel ftands

near the foot of the Cowgate, and was founded on the 3d April 1771. The foundation ftone was laid by General Oughton, with the following infcription: Edifici facr. Ecclefie epifc. Anglia, primum pofuit lapidem J. Adolphus Oughton, in architectonica Scotia repub. curio maximus, militum præ- ̧ fetus, regnante Georgio III. tertio Apr. die, A. D. MDCCLXXI. It is a plain handfome building, neatly fitted up in the infide, and fomewhat refembling the church of St Martin's in the Fields, London. It is 90 feet long, 75 broad, and ornamented with an elegant fpire of confiderable height. It is alfo furnished with an excellent bell, formerly belonging to the chapel royal at Holyrdod-houfe, which is permitted to be rung for aflembling the congregation; an indulgence not grant to the Prefbyterians in England. The expenfe of the building was defrayed by voluntary fubfcription and, as another evidence of the liberal fpirit of or age and country, people of all perfuations contributed. It is built in a fingular manner, viz. from S. to N. and the altar-piece ftands on the E. fide. Three clergymen officiate, of whom the fift has gol. the others .ool. each The altar-piece is finely decorated, and there is a good organ." There is another Epifcopal chapel, but fmall, in Black Friars Wynd, which was founded by baron Smith in 1722. There are alfo fome meetings of the Epifcopal church of Scotland, who adhere to their old forms, having ftill their bifnops and inferior cler gy, ordained in regular fucceffion. For fome time these were fubjected to penal laws, as they refu fed to take the oaths to government, or mention the prefent royal family in their public prayers; but upon the death of prince Charles Stuart in 1788, they conformed, and had their conduct approved of by his Majefty. They have an elegant new chapel built in 1789, in Drummond Street, at the back of the Royal Infirmary. The Metho difts have alfo an elegant chapel, a little to the NE. of the College Church, built in an octagonal form. The meeting houfes of the various diffenters from the Church of Scotland are likewife elegantly finish. ed; particularly that of the Burgher Scceders, in the New Town, and thofe of the Anti-Burghers in the Old Town S. fide. The Relief church is quite new, the old one built in 1770, having been taken down in 1797, on account of widening the ftreet at the back of the New College, and rebuilt in 1798.

(7) EDINBURGH, ECCLESIASTICAL COURTS HELD IN. The prefbytery of Edinburgh meets once a mouth in a hall in Scott's clofe; the provincial fynod of Lothian and Tweeddale once a quarter, in the fame place; and the General Affembly, which is the higheft ecciefiaftical court in Scotland, meets annually in May, in an aile of the church of St Giles, as already noticed. SCOTLAND CHURCH OF.

See

In 1215,

(8) EDINBURGH, GOVERNMENT OF. See $23. (9.) EDINBURGH, HISTORY OF, TILL THE BEGINNING OF THE 17th CENTURY. this city was firft diftinguished by having a parlia ment and provincial fynod held in it.-In 1296, the caftle was befieged and taken by Edward 1. of England; but was recovered in 1314 by Randolf, E. of Moray, afterwards regent, during the minority of K. David II. K. Robert II. deftroyed this fortrefs, as well as all others in Scotland, that they