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winding and romantic path, occasionally overhung with rocks and trees, into the alluvial tract whose western boundary is the channel of the Mississippi. This tract, so well known under the appellation of the American Bottom, consists partly of prairie and partly of forest, the latter being chiefly confined to the margin of the river. Both from its qualities, and its great extent, it is generally considered one of the most valuable districts of river alluvion in Western America; and is calculated at a future day to sustain a dense population. The very considerable proportion of it, which still remains unimproved, and the extreme flatness of the surface renders a ride across it, less pleasing and interesting than would be expected, as the views are generally confined, and there is no prospect of the Mississippi until you arrive within a few hundred yards of its current.

MOUNDS.

There is perhaps nothing connected with the history and character of this uncommonly fertile tract, which has been the topic of such frequent, not to say vague speculation, as the number of antique mounds situated upon it. it. An uncommon number of these are passed, in the route from Belleville to St. Louis, one of which is stated by Dr. Beck,* to be six hundred yards in circumference at the base, and ninety feet in height. It may be important to remark, that these mounds are invariably seated in, or near the borders of the prairies. They are generally cones of compact earth, sometimes truncated. Some of these tumuli, whose sides are covered with grass, are of so diminutive a size, as to appear at a distance like haycocks.

*Gazetteer of Illinois and Missouri.

We suffered much from the heat, after descending from the bluffs. After driving about five miles, a shower of fifteen or twenty minutes duration fell; the sun again reappeared, with intolerable brightness, but the rain had laid those clouds of dust, which before rolled over us. At two o'clock, we entered and passed through the village of Illinois, which is separated into two parts by the stagnant and pestiferous channel of Cahokia creek; and a few moments after, our carriage halted on the banks of the Mississippi.

The first view of this majestic river is striking and interesting. The broad and heavy-moving mass of water, rushing against the yielding shore, with a force that threatens to carry along the spectator in its rapid course; the view of the opposite shore, gradually ascending to an elevated plain, covered by the town of St. Louis, stretching for nearly a mile along the river, with the lines of barges, and steam-boats, which greatly add to its city-like aspect; the distant summits of the great mounds in its vicinity, and the verdant islands in the river;-presented at one burst to the eye of the traveller, suddenly ushered from dark unvaried woods, is calculated to produce a powerful and striking effect on the feelings, which is further heightened by the bustle and animation of the scene. We think it a prospect possessed of the noblest features, and exciting ideas of the extent of the Republic; the overbearing magnitude of the western country, and the grandeur and impetuosity of its streams, which fills the mind with pleasing anticipations of its future march to power and opulence, and physical and intellectual supremacy.

"A world of wonders-where creation seems
No more the work of nature, but her dreams;
Great, wild, and beautiful, beyond control,
She reigns in all the freedom of her soul."

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The intercourse between the two shores is kept up by a line of team-boats. With that gayety of heart, inspired by the termination of a tedious overland journey, we here dismissed our carriage, and entering on board of one of the boats, which appeared to unite great strength, with neatness and convenience, were landed at St. Louis at three o'clock, and took lodgings on the upper plain, which is a second bank to the river, and commands a good prospect of the town and environs."

CHAPTER XI.

St. Louis. Missouri Question.

Self-Emancipation.

Character of the Western Banks of the Mississippi. Cup-shaped Concavities. Biographical Sketch of Mr. Austin. Visit to the Mines.

ST. LOUIS.

THE three years which have elapsed, since my former visit to this western emporium, have produced a striking improvement in the general appearance of the town; and it is certainly entitled to the reputation it has in the Mississippi valley, for its eligible and advantageous site, and its increasing prosperity. Few towns west of the Alleghanies, have fairer prospects for future eminence, and perhaps there is no commercial town in America, situated so far from the ocean, which has the advantages of so fine a position, and so fertile and extensive a back country, which must resort to it, for the sale of its superfluous produce, and the supply of its foreign commodities. Indeed, the sources of its future commerce, are dispersed over such an immense surface, so greatly diversified in its character, and still so imperfectly explored, that it is impossible to assign any probable limits to the growth of

the town. The recent extension by our government, of the frontier posts on the waters of the Missouri, the upper Mississippi, and the Great Lakes, will have the effect to facilitate an early developement of the resources of those extensive regions, and by promoting the settlement of the country, prove eminently beneficial to the prosperity of St. Louis, together with a multitude of minor towns, seated on the tributary waters of the Mississippi. Too much credit cannot be given to the author of so liberal and enlightened a policy. And these initiatory measures cannot be followed too soon by some official steps to protect and secure to our citizens a lucrative inland trade, which is already carried on with Santa Fe, and other towns of the internal provinces of Mexico.

*

It may be difficult perhaps to ascertain the true cause of the unhealthiness, which appears within late years to have marked this town; unless the extensive and increasing sand-bar in the river, which is left naked during a part of the summer and autumn, can be supposed to generate miasmata. The general insalubrity of the banks of the Mississippi, is undoubtedly caused, in a great measure, by the abundant deposite of alluvial matter precipitated during the prevalence of high water; but this deposite, owing to the abrupt and rocky character of the shores, appears to be comparatively little, for some distance, both above and below the town of St. Louis. The unhealthiness mentioned, appears therefore, like that of the elevated parts of the Maremma of Italy, to proceed rather from malaria,† whose sources are distant.

Mr. Calhoun.

"The malaria, or bad air, as it is called, is a state of the atmosphere, or of the soil, or of both, in different parts of Italy, producing in the warm season, and especially in the months of August and September, a fever, more or less violent according to the nature of the exposure; but generally fatal, where the exposure has been long continued, or the place among the

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