174

ROWING AGAINST CONTRARY WINDS.

was not easy to force our way. The men rowed hard, but progress was slow and difficult. To make it worse, the Bedaween who had passed us with their camels had stopped to take a swim in the lake; and now, seeing our extremity, they turned towards us, at first only a few, but soon after a much larger number, and made a sudden dash for the boat, intending to seize hold of it, and perhaps to climb into it, at any rate not to let go till they were bought off. The rascals thought they had "a sure thing," for that the ladies would be so terrified that we would pay anything to be rid of them. So we might have done had we not had a determined dragoman; but as they were nearing us, Floyd started up with fury in his eye, and anger in his voice, and said if they dared to come near the boat, he would shoot every man of them as he would shoot a dog! At this the villains turned and swam back to the shore.

Thus we were saved from one danger, but still we made little headway, for the wind was contrary. Twice the boatmen cast out the anchor, and said they would not go any further. I am afraid they were treacherous: for this would have compelled us to go on shore, and walk for several miles to our camp, presenting a tempting object to the Bedaween, who were still watching us with hungry eyes. When they were in the water, without their guns (for many of them carried guns), they could do nothing; but had we set foot on land, we should have been helplessly in their power. Floyd saw the danger, and once more his hot temper saved us. His imperious manner cowed the boatmen into obedience. After a few minutes, they sullenly lifted the anchor, and again took to their oars. But the wind was too much for their strength. At last the ladies were asked to turn their gaze seaward or in the direction of the mountains, while a couple of the men, casting off their garments, like Peter of old, plunged into the lake, and swam ashore

CHORAZIN AND BETHSAIDA.

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with a rope in their hands, and getting a "belay" around rocks, pulled with all their might, while those in the boat rowed hard; and so by the most fatiguing labor, we crept slowly along. Once we gave our men a breathing spell, as we anchored at Tell Hum and went on shore, and wading through the long grass, came upon broken columns lying here and there—the ruins of a city that has passed away, and whose very name is in dispute, some claiming that it was Capernaum itself, while others identify it with Chorazin. Here, as elsewhere round the upper end of the lake, ruins and fields alike are relieved of any sombre appearance by the masses of color thrown in by the great and luxuriant oleanders, which at this season are covered with blossoms. Westward a little farther, we passed the ancient Bethsaida, but did not land, as the best which it has to show is its situation, which is seen directly from the water-a valley which, reaching down to the shore, furnished a site for the fishing village which was the home of Peter, Andrew, and Philip. It is a beautiful spot-beautiful even though the village or town itself be gone, and only a few wretched huts mark the place where it stood. It has a melancholy interest as being coupled with Chorazin in the prophetic words: "Woe unto thee, Chorazin! woe unto thee, Bethsaida! . . . It shall be more tolerable for Tyre and Sidon at the judgment than for you."

Up to this point our men had been putting forth all their strength in rowing, but soon after we passed Bethsaida, they unbent from their oars, as we came into a little bay which was partly sheltered from the winds, where the water was smooth, so that at last we glided gently to the shore. The experience of this afternoon, though more wearisome than dangerous, showed what the lake might be in a storm, when the winds from the mountains come down upon it and lash it into fury. Then it becomes indeed a

place of danger, that might well have justified the terror of the disciples, when they roused their Master from his slumber to save them from instant destruction.

We landed at Khan Minyeh, and found our tents, which had been sent round by land to meet us, pitched a few rods back from the shore, near a beautiful spring which issued from under high rocks. Here is the traditional site of the ancient Capernaum. I know that its identity has been fiercely disputed; explorers are divided between Khan Minyeh and Tell Hum. In such cases, where both sides are maintained with an array of learning, the ordinary traveller will fall back upon common report, and accept that which has the authority of tradition. Certainly this was worthy to have been the site of a great city. It is on the borders of the Plain of Gennesareth, which furnished ample room on which the city could expand. It is at the head of the lake, in a position favorable to such commerce as there might be upon it, and at the same time to the traffic with the interior: for it was the entrepôt of a great overland trade between Asia and Africa-between the valleys of the Tigris and the Euphrates on the one hand, and the valley of the Nile on the other. Caravans of camels crossing the desert brought hither the riches of the farthest East. In the grand old Roman days, this was one of the chief seats of Roman power in Palestine. Here was the residence of the Governor of Galilee. The province was traversed by Roman roads; the city was watered by Roman aqueducts: and Roman soldiers kept guard in its streets. Our camp was at the foot of a cliff, on the top of which is a small plateau, which must have been included within the city. Looking up to this height, it seemed probable that there was an upper town and a lower town, and that this elevated plateau was the Acropolis, on which stood the Governor's Palace, and the citadel, and a temple

NO TRACE OF ITS ANCIENT MAGNIFICENCE.

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to the gods, or whatever might show forth the Imperial splendor. Perhaps our Lord had this literal elevation in his eye, as a type of the haughtiness and pride of the city, when he said "And thou, Capernaum, which art exalted to heaven, shalt be thrust down to hell!" This was not a curse, but a judgment—a solemn declaration by one who saw the end from the beginning, of the inevitable ruin which waits on proud and insolent wickedness. How that word has been accomplished, we see to-day. Of all that ancient magnificence, not a trace remains. One can hardly imagine how utter is the desolation. In some of these old towns around the lake not a human being is left. Here where once stood a great city, with a multitude thronging its streets, every footstep is departed. This plain was once full of busy life; this lake was animated by boats gliding to and fro. Now there is scarcely a sail upon the water or a footprint on the shore. The night that we camped here, there was a young moon in the sky that just revealed the outlines of the hills, and gleamed faintly on the waters one of those nights that make us listen for Some floating whisper on the hill"; but all was silent as the grave. The only sound that we heard all night long, was that of the jackals that made their habitations in the rocks, whose mournful cry at midnight seemed to give voice to the mighty desolation. The woe had been fulfilled.

CHAPTER XV.

TO CESAREA-PHILIPPI AND ROUND MOUNT HERMON.

As we broke camp in the morning, and rode up the hill, which I have supposed was the ancient Acropolis, we turned to take one more look at the Sea of Galilee lying at our feet. On the eastern side the hills were still partly in shadow, but the morning light was creeping over them, bringing into view the outline of the sacred shores. Almost every spot within the sweep of the eye was connected with the history of our Lord. Capernaum was his home for the greater part of the three years of his ministry-a period more important than the preceding thirty years, which he spent at Nazareth for here his life was not one of obscurity, but of incessant activity; his teaching was chiefly on these shores and waters, and now his blessed words seem to float upward from the lake below, while from the Plain of Gennesareth the air, fresh with morning dew, comes like the breath of God. In the presence of such a scene, it is almost an impertinence to speak: one is held silent and motionless. For a few moments we sat on our horses, not saying a word, and then turned and silently rode away.

As we leave the lake behind, we enter a rough hillcountry, which is the character of this portion of Galilee.