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yons. From Lyons there is another great rent, which uns across the whole country in almost another straight ine, and, notwithstanding the vast height of the mountains hat rise about it, gives it the shortest course it can take to all into the sea. Had such a river as this been left to itself o have found its way out from among the Alps, whatever rinding it had made it must have formed several little seas, nd have laid many countries under water, before it had come o the end of its course. I shall not make


upon Geneva, which is a republic so well known to the English. t lies at present under some difficulties by reason of the mperor's displeasure, who has forbidden the importation f their manufactures into any part of the empire, which till certainly raise a sedition among the people, unless the nagistrates find some way to remedy it: and they say it is Iready done by the interposition of the states of Holland. he occasion of the emperor's prohibition was their furnishng great sums to the king of France for the payment of

army in Italy. They obliged themselves to remit after ne rate of twelve hundred thousand pounds sterling per anum, divided into so many monthly payments. As the terest was very great, several of the merchants of Lyons, ho would not trust their king in their own name, are said

have contributed a great deal under the names of Geneva erchants. The republic fancies itself hardly treated by he emperor, since it is not any acti of the state, but a ompact among private persons, that hath furnished out ese several remittances. They pretend, however, to have at a stop to them, and by that means are in hopes again to pen their commerce into the empire.




From Geneva I travelled to Lausanne, and thence to ribourg, which is but a mean town for the capital of so rge a canton. Its situation is so irregular, that they are rced to climb up to several parts of it by staircases of a odigious ascent. The inconvenience, however, gives them very great commodity in case a fire breaks out in any part the town, for by reason of several reservoirs on the tops these mountains, by the opening of a sluice they convey a

river into what part of the town they please. They have four churches, four convents of women, and as many for men. The little chapel, called the Salutation, is very neat, and built with a pretty fancy. The college of Jesuits is, they say, the finest in Switzerland. There is a great deal of room in it, and several beautiful views from the different parts of it. They have a collection of pictures representing most of the fathers of their order, who have been eminent for their piety or learning. Among the rest, many Englishmen whom we name rebels, and they martyrs. Henry Garnet's inscription says, That when the heretics could not prevail with him, either by force or promises, to change his religion, they hanged and quartered him. At the Capuchins I saw the escargatoire, which I took the more notice of, because I do not remember to have met with anything of the same in other countries. It is a square place boarded in, and filled with a vast quantity of large snails, that are esteemed excellent food when they are well dressed. The floor is strewed about half a foot deep with several kinds of plants, among which the snails nestle all the winter season. When Lent arrives they open their magazines, and take out of them the best meagre food in the world, for there is no dish of fish that they reckon comparable to a ragout of snails.

About two leagues from Fribourg we went to see a hermitage, that is reckoned the greatest curiosity of these parts. It lies in the prettiest solitude imaginable, among woods and rocks, which at first sight dispose a man to be serious. There has lived in it a hermit these five and twenty years, who with his own hands has worked in the rock a pretty chapel, a sacristy, a chamber, kitchen, cellar, and other con

His chimney is carried up through the whole rock, so that you see the sky through it, notwithstanding the rooms lie very deep. He has cut the side of the rock into a flat for a garden, and by laying on it the waste earth that he has found in several of the neighbouring parts, bas made such a spot of ground of it as furnishes out a kind of luxury for a hermit. As he saw drops of water distilling from several parts of the rock, by following the veins of them, he has made himself two or three fountains in the bowels of the mountain, that serve his table, and water his little garden.

We had very bad ways from hence to Berne, a great part


them through woods of fir-trees. The great quantity of aber they have in this country makes them mend their ghways with wood instead of stone. I could not but take tice of the make of several of their barns I here saw. ter having laid a frame of wood for the foundation, they ce at the four corners of it four huge blocks, cut in such hape as neither mice nor any other sort of vermin can ep up the sides of them, at the same time that they raise corn above the moisture that might come into it from

ground. The whole weight of the barn is supported by ese four blocks. What pleased me most at Berne was, their public walks the great church. They are raised extremely high, and it their weight might not break down the walls and pilass which surround them, they are built upon arches and ults. Though they are, I believe, as high as most steeples England from the streets and gardens that lie at the foot

them, yet about forty years ago a person in his drink fell wn from the very top to the bottom, without doing himself y other hurt than the breaking of an arm. He died about ir years ago.

There is the noblest - summer-prospect in e world from this walk, for you have a full view of a huge nge of mountains that lie in the country of the Grisons, d are buried in snow. They are about twenty-five leagues' tance from the town, though by reason of their height a their colour they seem much nearer. The cathedral urch stands on one side of these walks, and is, perhaps, e most magnificent of any Protestant church in Europe t of England. It is a very bold work, and a master-piece Gothic architecture. I saw the arsenal of Berne, where they say there are arms - twenty thousand men.

There is, indeed, no great pleae in visiting these magazines of war after one has seen o or three of them, yet it is very well worth a traveller's ile to look into all that lie in his way; for besides the a it gives him of the forces of a state, it serves to fix in mind the most considerable parts of his history. Thus that of Geneva, one meets with the ladders, petard, and ner utensils which were made use of in their famous escale, besides the weapons they took of the Savoyards, FlorenLes, and French, in the several battles mentioned in their tory. In this of Berne, you have the figure and armour of the count who founded the town, of the famous Tell, who is represented as shooting at the apple on his son's head. The story is too well known to be repeated in this place. I here, likewise, saw the figure and armour of him that headed the peasants in the war upon Berne, with the several weapons which were found in the hands of his followers. They show, too, abundance of arms that they took from the Burgundians in the three great battles which established them in their liberty, and destroyed the great Duke of Burgundy himself, with the bravest of his subjects. I saw nothing remarkable in the chambers where the council meet, nor in the fortifications of the town. These last were made on occasion of the peasants’insurrection, to defend the place for the future against the like sudden assaults. In their library I observed a couple of antique figures in metal, of a priest pouring wine between the horns of a bull. The priest is veiled after the manner of the old Roman sacrificers, and is represented in the same action that Virgil describes in the third Æneid.

Ipsa tenens dextrâ pateram pulcherrima Dido

Candentis vaccæ media inter cornua fundit.

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This antiquity was found at Lausanne.

The town of Berne is plentifully furnished with water, there being a great multitude of handsome fountains planted at set distances from one end of the streets to the other. There is, indeed, no country in the world better supplied with water, than the several parts of Switzerland that I travelled through. One meets everywhere in the roads with fountains continually running into huge troughs that stand underneath them, which is wonderfully commodious in a country that so much abounds with horses and cattle. It has so many springs breaking out of the sides of the hills, and such vast quantities of wood to make pipes of, that it is no wonder they are so well stocked with fountains.

On the road between Berne and Soleurre there is a monument erected by the republic of Berne, which tells us the story of an Englishman, who is not to be met with in of our own writers. The inscription is in Latin verse on one side of the stone, and in German on the other. I had not time to copy it, but the substance of it is this. “ One Cussinus, an Englishman, to whom the Duke of Austria had given his sister in marriage, came to take her from among


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e Swiss by force of arms, but after having ravaged the
untry for some time, he was here overthrown by the can-
-n of Berne."
Soleurre is our next considerable town, that seemed to me
have a greater air of politeness than any I saw in Switzer-
nd. The French ambassador has his residence in this
ace. His master contributed a great sum of money to the
suit's church, which is not yet quite finished. It is the
nest modern building in Switzerland. The old cathedral
urch stood not far from it. At the ascent that leads to it
e a couple of antique pillars which belonged to an old
athen temple, dedicated to Hermes: they seem Tuscan by
eir proportion. The whole fortification of Soleurre is
ced with marble. But its best fortifications are the high
ountains that lie within its neighbourhood, and separate it
om the Franche Compté.
The day's journey carried us through other parts of
e canton of Berne, to the little town of Meldingen. I
as surprised to find in all my road through Switzerland,
Le wine that

grows in the country of Vaud on the borders the lake of Geneva, which is very cheap, notwithstanding e great distance between the vineyards and the towns that 11 the wine.

But the navigable rivers of Switzerland are commodious to them in this respect, as the sea is to the nglish. As soon as the vintage is over, they ship off their ine upon

the lake, which furnishes all the towns that lie oon its borders. What they design for other parts of the -untry they unload at Vevy, and after about half a day's nd-carriage convey it into the river Aar, which brings it wn the stream to Berne, Soleurre, and, in a word, disbutes it through all the richest parts of Switzerland; as is easy to guess from the first sight of the map, which ows us the natural communication Providence has formed etween the

many rivers and lakes of a country that is at so eat a distance from the sea. The canton of Berne is ckoned as powerful as all the rest together. They can nd a hundred thousand men into the field; though the ldiers of the Catholic cantons, who are much poorer, and, erefore, forced to enter oftener into foreign armies, are Ore esteemed than the Protestants. We lay one night at Meldingen, which is a little Roman atholic town with one church, and no convent. It is a re

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