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agreeable kind of horror, and form one of the most irregular, misshapen scenes in the world. The house that is now in the hands of the Carthusians belonged formerly to the hermits of St. Maurice, and is famous in history for the retreat of an anti-pope, who called himself Felix the Fifth. He had been Duke of Savoy, and, after a very glorious reign, took on him the habit of a hermit, and retired into this solitary spot of his dominions. His enemies will have it, that he lived here in great ease and luxury, from whence the Italians to this day make use of the proverb, Andare a Ripaglia, and the French, Faire Ripaille, to express a delightful kind of life. They say too, that he had great managements with several ecclesiastics before he turned hermit, and that he did it in the view of being advanced to the pontificate. However it was, he had not been here half a year before he was chosen pope by the council of Basil, who took upon them to depose Eugenio the Fourth. This promised fair at first, but by the death of the emperor, who favoured Amadeo, and the resolution of Eugenio, the greatest part of the Church threw itself again under the government of their deposed head. Our anti-pope, however, was still supported by the council of Basil, and owned by Savoy, Switzerland, and a few other little states. This schism lasted in the Church nine years, after which Felix voluntarily resigned his title into the hands of Pope Nicholas the Fifth, but on the following conditions, that Amadeo should be the first cardinal in the conclave; that the pope should always receive him standing, and offer him his mouth to kiss ; that he should be perpetual cardinal-legate in the states of Savoy and Switzerland, and in the archbishoprics of Geneva, Sion, Bress, &c. And lastly, that all the cardinals of his creation should be recognised by the pope. After he had made a peace so acceptable to the Church, and so honourable to himself, he spent the remainder of his life with great devotion at Ripaille, and died with an extraordinary reputation of sanctity.

At Tonon they showed us a fountain of water that is in great esteem for its wholesomeness. They say it weighs two ounces in a pound less that the same measure of the lake water, notwithstanding this last is very good to drink, and as clear as can be imagined. A little above Tonon is a castle and small garrison. The next day we saw other small towns coast of Savoy, where there is nothing but misery and -y. The nearer you come to the end of the lake, the tains on each side grow thicker and higher, till at last lmost meet. One often sees on the tops of the mounseveral sharp rocks that stand above the rest ; for as mountains have been doubtless much higher than they present, the rains have washed away abundance of the hat has left the veins of stone shooting out of them; as ecayed body the flesh is still shrinking from the bones. atural histories of Switzerland talk very much of the

these rocks, and the great damage they have sometimes when their foundations have been mouldered with age, t by an earthquake. We saw in several parts of the that bordered upon us, vast pits of snow, as several sains that lie at a greater distance are wholly covered t. I fancied the confusion of mountains and hollows,

observed, furnished me with a more probable reason any I have met with for those periodical fountains in erland, which flow only at such particular hours of the For as the tops of these mountains cast their shadows one another, they hinder the sun's shining on several at such certain tinies, so that there are several heaps of which have the sun lying upon them two or three hours ner, and are in the shade all the day afterwards. If, Fore, it happens that any particular fountain takes its om any of these reservoirs of snow, it will naturally to flow on such hours of the day as the snow begins to

but as soon as the sun leaves it again to freeze and 7, the fountain dries up, and receives no more supplies out the same time the next day, when the heat of the gain sets the snows a running that fall into the same conduits, traces, and canals, and by consequence break d discover themselves always in the same place. At the xtremity of the lake the Rhone enters, and, when I saw ught along with it a prodigious quantity of water; the and lakes of this country being much higher in sumhan in winter, by reason of the melting of the snows. rould wonder how so many learned men could fall

great an absurdity, as to believe this river could preitself unmixed with the lake till its going out again neva, which is a course of many miles. It was exy muddy at its entrance when I saw it, though as

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clear as rock water at its going out. Besides that, it brought in much more water than it carried off

. The river, indeed, preserves itself for about a quarter of a mile in the lake, but is afterwards so wholly mixed and lost with the waters of the lake, that one discovers nothing like a stream till within about a quarter of a mile of Geneva. From the end of the lake to the source of the Rhone, is a valley of about four days' journey in length, which gives the name of Vallesins to its inhabitants, and is the dominion of the bishop of Sion. We lodged the second night at Ville Neuve, a little town in the canton of Berne, where we found good accommodations, and a much greater appearance of plenty than on the other side of the lake. The next day, having passed by the castle of Chillon, we came to Versoy, another town in the canton of Berne, where Ludlow retired after having left Geneva and Lausanne. The magistrates of the town warned him out of the first by the solicitation of the Duchess of Orleans, as the death of his friend Lisle made him quit the other. He probably chose this retreat as a place of the greatest safety, it being an easy matter to know what strangers are in the town, by reason of its situation. The house he lived in has this inscription over the door.

Omne solum forti patria

quia patris. The first part is a piece of a verse in Ovid, as the last is a cant of his own. He is buried in the best of the churches, with the following epitaph.

Siste gradum et respice Hic jacet Edmond Ludlow Anglus Natione, Provinciæ Wiltoniensis, filius Henrici Equestris Ordinis, Senatorisque Parlamenti, cujus quoque fuit ipse membrum, Patrum stemmate clarus et nobilis, virtute propriâ nobilior, religione protestans et insigni pietate coruscus, ætatis Anno 23, tribunus Militum, paulo post exercitus prætor primarius. Tunc Hibernorum domitor, in pugnâ intrepidus et vitæ prodigus, in victoriâ clemens et mansuetus, patriæ libertatis defensor, et potestatis arbitrariæ impugnator acerrimus; cujus causâ ab eâdem patriâ 32 annis extorris, meliorique fortuna dignus apud Helvetios se recepit, ibique ætatis Anno 73, moriens sui desiderium relinquens sedes æternas lætus advolavit.

Hocce Monumentum, in perpetuam veræ et sinceræ pietatis erga Maritum defunctum memoriam, dicat et vovet Domina Elizabeth de Thomas, ejus strenua et mæstissima, tam in infortuniis quam in matrimonio, consors dilectissima, quæ animi magnitudine et vi amoris conjugalis mota eum in exilium ad obitum usque constanter secuta est. Anno Dom. 1693.

VOL. 1.

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w was a constant frequenter of sermons and prayers, ld never communicate with them either of Geneva

Just by his monument is a tombstone with the g inscription.

Depositorium. roughton Armigeri Anglicani Maydstonensis in Comitatu Cantii, rætor urbanus. Dignatusque etiam fuit sententiam Regis Reri. Quam ob causam expulsus patriâ suâ, peregrinatione ejus o senectutis morbo affectus requiescens a laboribus suis in Dormivit, 23 die Feb. Anno D. 1687. ætatis suæ 84. habitants of the place could give no account of this on, but, I suppose, by his epitaph, it is the same hat was clerk to the pretended high court of justice, assed sentence on the royal martyr. ext day we spent at Lausanne, the greatest town on

after Geneva. We saw the wall of the cathedral that was opened by an earthquake, and shut again ars after by a second. The crack can but be just d at present, though there are several in the town ng who have formerly passed through it. The Duke nberg, who was killed in Savoy, lies in this church, hout any monument or inscription over him. Lauas once a republic, but is now under the canton of und governed, like the rest of their dominions, by a no is sent them every three years from the senate of

There is one street of this town that has the priviacquitting or condemning any person of their own

matters of life and death. Every inhabitant of it vote, which makes a house here sell better than in r part of the town. They tell you that not many o it happened, that a cobbler had the casting vote for of a criminal, which he very graciously gave on the

side. From Lausanne to Geneva we coasted along atry of the Vaud, which is the fruitfullest and best ed part of any among the Alps. It belonged for- the Duke of Savoy, but was won from him by the of Berne, and made over to it by the treaty of St. which is still very much regretted by the Savoyard. ed in at Morge, where there is an artificial port, and of more trade than in any other town on the lake. Jorge we came to Nyon. The colonia equestris ius Cæsar settled in this country, is generally sup

posed to have been planted in this place. They have often dug up old Roman inscriptions and statues, and as I walked in the town, I observed in the walls of several houses the fragments of vast Corinthian pillars, with several other pieces of architecture, which must have formerly belonged to some very noble pile of building. There is no author that mentions this colony, yet it is certain, by several old Roman inscriptions, that there was such an one. Lucan, indeed, speaks of a part of Cæsar's army, that came to him from the Leman Lake in the beginning of the civil war.

Deseruere cavo têntoria fixa Lemanno.

At about five miles' distance from Nyon they show still the ruins of Cæsar's wall, that reached eighteen miles in length from Mount Jura to the borders of the lake, as he has described it in the first book of his Commentaries. The next town

upon the lake is Versoy, which we could not have an opportunity of seeing, as belonging to the king of France. It has the reputation of being extremely poor and beggarly. We sailed from hence directly for Geneva, which makes a very noble show from the lake. There are near Geneva several quarries of free-stone that run under the lake. When the water is at lowest they make within the borders of it a little square enclosed with four walls. In this square they sink a pit and dig for free-stone; the walls hindering the waters from coming in upon them, when the lake rises and runs on all sides them. The great convenience of carriage makes these stones much cheaper than any

that can be found upon firm land. One sees several deep pits that have been made at several times as one sails over thein. As the lake approaches Geneva it

narrower and

till at last it changes its name into the Rhone, which turns all the mills of the town, and is extremely rapid, notwithstanding its waters are very deep. As I have seen a great part of the course of this river, I cannot but think it has been guided by the particular hand of Providence. It rises in the very heart of the Alps, and has a long valley that seems hewn out on purpose to give its waters a passage amidst so many

rocks and mountains which are on all sides of it. This brings it almost in a direct line to Geneva. It would there overflow all the country, were there not one particular cleft that divides a vast circuit of mountains, and conveys it off to


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