nature to that hodge-podge of Romish relics that we lately laughed at-the old Bible, bound in oaken boards. an inch in thickness. It was used by the Public Reader, in those troublous days when it was a sealed book to the common people. The inscription on the great bell of the Cathedral is also worthy of notice. It runs thus: In the year of grace 1594, Marcus Knox, a merchant in Glasgow, zealous for the interest of the reformed religion, caused me to be fabricated in Holland for the use of his fellow-citizens of Glasgow, and placed me with solemnity in the tower of their cathedral. My function was announced by the impress on my bosom (Me audito venias doctrinam sanctam ut discas), and I was taught to proclaim the hours of unheeded time. 195 years had I sounded these awful warnings, when I was broken by the hands of inconsiderate and unskilful men. In the year 1790, I was cast into the furnace, refounded at London, and returned to my sacred vocation. Reader, thou also shalt know a Resurrection: may it be unto eternal life!' The glare of light in the building, arising from the large fenestration, was excessive, and might have been avoided if the windows had been glazed with that dim greenish glass known as 'cathedral glass,' until they could have been better filled with stained glass. This, however, will soon be done. Active measures have been taken for filling the whole of the windows of the Cathedral with the best glass that can be procured. The east window was filled, and opened' in November 1859, and, shortly after this, the great west window was completed, at the cost of two thousand pounds, the munificent gifts of the brothers Baird, of Gartsherrie. This window was executed at the Royal Factory at Munich, where the others have also been made. The Duke of EXTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL. 93 Hamilton, the Earl of Glasgow, and others, have largely helped forward this work, and the restoration of the Cathedral will soon be complete. The Duke of Hamilton's window, which was opened' in the spring of 1860, came from the Munich Factory, having been produced under the direction of Professor Ainmiller, from the designs of himself, Mr. Laing, of Edinburgh, and Mr. Heath, of Glasgow-the six figures of Moses, Isaiah, Jeremiah, Ezekiel, Malachi, and John the Baptist, having been executed from cartoons by the Baron Von Hess, President of the Royal Academy of Munich. These figures are of grand design, and have been treated with great pictorial effect, medieval quaintness and mosaic flatness having been designedly avoided.* Similar figures in other windows have been designed by such artists as Strahüber, Fortner, Von Schwinde, and Siebertz; and the introduction of these windows into Glasgow Cathedral, while it helps to perfect one of the most satisfactory and energetic restorations of the day, proves also that the Church of Scotland is not indifferent to the tendencies of the age, and is determined to prove herself a true patron of Art. Let us look now at the exterior of the Cathedral. A portion of the external restoration' was nothing more nor less than destruction, viz. the pulling down of the western tower, and the substitution of modern pinnacles and ornaments. It is true that this tower— in the state to which it had been brought by miscalled improvements-was frightfully ugly, and a blemish to the edifice (to judge of it from prints); but, surely, its disfigurements might have been removed, and the Three of the cartoons were published in the Illustrated News, March 1, 1862, and the general design for the window in the Illustrated Times, December 15, 1860. tower restored to what we may believe to have been its . original condition, and so as to harmonise with the rest of the structure. In fact, two western towers ought to have been built, in order to complete the work of "restoration' in its true sense; and how much the Cathedral would have thereby gained in appearance it is needless to say. One of these towers many years since had either been destroyed, or had fallen downlike the northern West-tower at Ely-and its base had been roofed in for a house; it remained thus till within these forty years. What it was like we may see by consulting an engraving in the 'Pictorial Illustrations to the Waverley Novels' ('Rob Roy '), where a view of the Cathedral is given from the south-west; and, what it and its twin tower may have been made to resemble, may be seen by turning to an engraving of Mr. Kemp's proposed restoration of the western front of the Cathedral, given in Fullarton's 'Gazetteer of Scotland,' i. 654. Both Mr. Kemp's designs and those of Mr. Graham, of Edinburgh (who was also desirous to restore the western towers), were overthrown; and a leading feature of the building has thus been destroyed, without any attempt at emendation. The south-west view of the Cathedral-that obtained on one's first approach from High Street-is one of the best, though it would be improved if the burying-ground enclosing the building was planted with trees and shrubs, as has been so well done on the northern and eastern sides of Peterborough Cathedral. Formerly, indeed, it was adorned with trees, but in 1588 they were cut down, by order of the Kirk Session, that they might be converted into forms for the use of the men during divine worship--and for the use of the men alone, for those women who were unwilling to stand THE NECROPOLIS. 95 through the service, were compelled to bring with them stools a very needless infliction of want of gallantry, on the part of great hulking fellows, towards their better halves. The worship of the women was also fettered by other hampering laws. Their plaids, for example, were not allowed to be placed over their heads, after the Scotch fashion, and, if they thus transgressed, the plaids were to be properly adjusted by the beadles, who were furnished with staffs, and whose descendants still linger in certain churches in England. One of the chief points in this south-west view of the Cathedral is, that it is so closely backed up by the Necropolis, which forms a most striking and appropriate background to the view. I will bring my Glasgow jottings' to a close with a description of this cemetery, from whose fir-crowned top we shall have reached the highest elevation of the city, and shall gain an admirable panoramic view of the second city in the United Kingdom, whose importance and many objects of interest have caused me to linger somewhat longer than I had purposed over this portion of my Tour in Tartan-Land. CHAPTER IX. A SCOTCH NECROPOLIS. The Bridge of Sighs-The Necropolis- Beauty and appropriate- HERE are three cemeteries in Glasgow, of which the chief is that called 'The Necropolis.' Bristling with columns and monuments, over which that of Knox stands supreme, it crowns the rugged Fir-park Hill,' a block of rock that rises precipitously to the height of nearly 300 feet, and on whose summit Druids are supposed to have worshipped. Far below, a small stream, called the Molendinar burn,' runs rapidly through the deep ravine that separates the Necropolis from the high plateau on which the Cathedral is built. A lofty bridge, bearing the poetical name of 'The Bridge of Sighs,' spans the ravine, and connects the Cathedral Yard with the lower portion of the Necropolis. A lodge guards the approach to the bridge, and Italian gateways are erected at the immediate entrance of the Cemetery. Carriage roads wind round the hill, and tortuous footpaths traverse it in every direction. Surely there never was a fitter spot for a place of burial. In the city, and yet not of |