to be made. The velocity with which the train rushed down this incline, and the suddenness with which it wheeled round the curves, produced a sensation which cannot be reproduced in words. The line is carried along the edge of declivities stretching downwards for two or three thousand feet, and in some parts on a narrow ledge which had been excavated from the mountain side by men swung from the upper parts in baskets. The speed under these circumstances seemed terrific. The axle-boxes smoked with the friction, and the odour The wheels of burning wood pervaded the cars. were nearly red hot. In the darkness of the night they resembled discs of flame. Glad though all were to reach Sacramento, not a few were specially thankful to have reached it with whole limbs and unbruised bodies.

The charm of the last few hours is indescribable. It owed its effect to the striking contrast between the experience of the past and the pleasure of the moment. To nothing can it so aptly be compared as to that impressive passage in the inspired vision of the great Italian poet which tells how, after having painfully traversed the circles of Hell, he at last entered the dolorous realm' ribbed in everlasting ice, then issuing forth through an outlet, he returned to the bright world,' beheld the beauteous

*

sights of Heaven, and saw the stars again. But a few hours ago we were passing through a region in which desolation reigned supreme; a region of sagebrush and alkali dust, of bitter water and unkindly skies. Still more recently the icy winds of the snow-crowned Sierras had chilled us to the bone. The transition was sudden and the transformation magical. The sun descended in a flood of glory towards the Pacific Ocean, while the train was spinning down the ringing grooves of the mountains. The canopy of azure overhead, unflecked by a cloud and spangled with myriads of brilliant stars, surpassed in loveliness the brightest and most serene sky which ever enchanted the dweller on the luxuriant shores of the blue Mediterranean. No Italian air was ever more balmy, nor evening breeze through vineyard or olive grove more grateful to the senses than the soft wind which, tempered by the coolness of the distant ocean and odorous with the rich perfumes of the neighbouring plains, now fanned our cheeks and gave a fresh zest to life. The journey is not yet over. San Francisco is still upwards of a hundred miles to the west. But the Rocky Mountains, the American Desert, and the

* 'Tanto ch'io vidi delle cose belle,

Che porta il Ciel, per un pertugio tondo:

E quindi uscimmo a riveder le stelle.'

Inferno, canto xxxiv. lines 137-9.

Sierra Nevadas are far behind us and a new country is before our eyes. That the Golden State is one of extraordinary richness is well known to every traveller. To some, however, as to me, it may have been a matter for rejoicing to discover that California is also a land teeming with unexpected natural beauties and rare natural delights.

229

XVIII.

THE CAPITAL OF THE GOLDEN STATE.

THE passengers by the train in which I journeyed. across the continent of America missed connections' at Sacramento. This is the American way of stating that the train which arrived did not correspond with that which departed. The accident which I have described was the cause of this. Had the train been punctual the passengers need not have rested for the night at Sacramento, as they might have continued their journey without pause till San Francisco was reached. However, they had no choice. For better or worse a night had to be passed at Sacramento, the capital of the State of California, and 125 miles distant from the chief and most notable city on the Pacific Coast. For my own part I had intended to stop here on the way Westward, in order to see something of the most remarkable among the cities of California.

My first personal experience of a Californian hotel was partly a severe trial and partly a new

pleasure. The trial consisted in the demands made upon me by hospitable acquaintances; the pleasure in practically learning how persistent and expansive was Californian good-fellowship. I accompanied my travelling acquaintances to the hotel for which they vouched. One of them had been a member of the Legislature of California, and was consequently well acquainted with Sacramento, the seat of the legislature of a thousand drinks.' A few minutes after my companions and myself had inscribed our names in the hotel-register it was proposed that we should take a drink.' This proposition was received with general approval. As a stranger, I could neither object with good reason nor retire with courtesy. The drink' was duly enjoyed by the several members of the party. Hardly was the libation at an end than the friend of one of those

present made his appearance. After a hearty greeting to his friend, the ceremony of introducing those who were strangers to him was performed with the accustomed solemnities. Then followed the invitation, Let us take a drink.' Again were healths pledged and glasses emptied at the hotel bar. The gratification was slightly diminished this time, seeing that the night was advancing, and the hour for supper was nigh. But remonstrance was useless, and would have been regarded as unsocial.