turned into a brewery, and the race, down to about the year 1873, ended at the new "Swan," higher up the river, as mentioned above.

The "Swan," very naturally, was a favourite sign for inns by the waterside, and Mr. J. T. Smith, in his "Book for a Rainy Day," or rather a waterman who speaks in his pages, enumerates a goodly list of "Swans" between London and Battersea bridges in 1829-"Why, let me see, master," he writes, "there's the 'Old Swan' at London Bridge -that's one; then there's the 'Swan' in Arundel Street-that's two; then our's here" (at Hungerford Stairs), "three; the 'Swan' at Lambeth-that's down though. Well, then there's the Old Swan' at Chelsea, but that has been long turned into a brewhouse; though that was where our people" (the watermen) "rowed to formerly, as mentioned in Doggett's will; now they row to the sign of the 'New Swan' beyond the Physic Garden-we'll say that's four. Then there's two 'Swans' at Battersea -six."

We have already spoken at some length of Tom Doggett, the famous comedian,* and of the annual rowing match by Thames watermen for the honour of carrying off the "coat and badge," which, in pursuance of his will, have been competed for on the 1st of August for the last 150 years; suffice it to say, then, that in the year 1873 the old familiar "Swan" inn was demolished to make room for the new embankment. The old "Swan" tavern enjoyed a fair share of public | favour for many years. Pepys, in his " Diary," thus mentions it, under date April 9, 1666:-" By coach to Mrs. Pierce's, and with her and Knipp, and Mrs. Pierce's boy and girl abroad, thinking to have been merry at Chelsea; but being come almost to the house by coach, near the waterside, a house alone, I think the 'Swan,' a gentleman walking by called to us to tell us that the house was shut up because of the sickness. So we, with great affright, turned back, being holden to the gentleman, and went away (I, for my part, in great disorder) to Kensington." In 1780 the house was converted into the Swan Brewery; and the landing of the victor in the aquatic contest thenceforth took place, as above stated, at a house bearing the same sign nearer to Cheyne Walk. Since the demolition of this house the race has been ended close to the spot where the old tavern stood. This rowing match-although not to be compared in any way to the great annual aquatic contest between the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge-occasions a very lively scene, the river being covered

* See Vol. III., p. 308.

with boats, and the utmost anxiety evinced by the friends of the contending parties. In former times it was customary for the winner on his arrival to be saluted with shouts of applause by the surrounding spectators, and carried in triumph on the shoulders of his friends into the tavern.

On a vacant space of ground in front of the Swan Brewery stood formerly a mansion, erected in the reign of Queen Anne, which was for many years inhabited by Mrs. Banks, the mother of Sir Joseph Banks.

"The Physic Garden," to which we now come, was originated by Sir Hans Sloane, the celebrated physician, and was handed over in 1721 by him, by deed of gift, to the Apothecaries' Company, who still own and maintain it. The garden, which bears the name of the "Royal Botanic," was presented to the above company on condition that it "should at all times be continued as a physicgarden, for the manifestation of the power, and wisdom, and goodness of God in creation; and that the apprentices might learn to distinguish good and useful plants from hurtful ones." Various additions have been made to the "Physic Garden at different periods, in the way of greenhouses and hot-houses; and in the centre of the principal walk was erected a statue of Sir Hans Sloane, by Michael Rysbraeck.

"We visited," writes P. Wakefield in r814, "the Physic or Botanic Garden,' commenced by the Company of Apothecaries in 1673, and patronised by Sir Hans Sloane, who granted the freehold of the premises to the company on condition that they should present annually to the Royal Society specimens of fifty new plants till their number should amount to two thousand. From a sense of gratitude they erected in the centre of the garden a marble statue of their benefactor. Above the spacious greenhouse is a library, furnished with a large collection of botanical works, and with numerous specimens of dried plants. We could not quit these gardens without admiring two cedars of great size and beauty."

"At the time the garden was formed," writes the author of "London Exhibited in 1851," "it must have stood entirely in the country, and had every chance of the plants in it maintaining a healthy state. Now, however, it is completely in the town, and but for its being on the side of the river, and lying open on that quarter, it would be altogether surrounded with common streets and houses. As it is, the appearance of the walls, grass, plants, and houses is very much that of most London gardens-dingy, smoky, and, as regards the plants, impoverished and starved. It is, however,

Chelsea.]

THE OLD BUN-HOUSE.

69

mob; and in one day more than £250 has been taken for buns.

interesting for its age, for the few old specimens it contains, for the medical plants, and, especially, because the houses are being gradually renovated, The following curious notice was issued on Wedand collections of ornamental plants, as well as those nesday, March 27th, 1793 :-" Royal Bun House, which are useful in medicine, formed and cultivated Chelsea, Good Friday.-No Cross Buns. Mrs. on the best principles, under the curatorship of Hand respectfully informs her friends and the Mr. Thomas Moore, one of the editors of the public, that in consequence of the great concourse 'Gardener's Magazine of Botany."" In spite of of people which assembled before her house at a the disadvantages of its situation, here are still very early hour, on the morning of Good Friday grown very many of the drugs which figure in the last, by which her neighbours (with whom she has "London Pharmacopoeia." The two cedars of always lived in friendship and repute) have been Lebanon, which have now reached the age of much alarmed and annoyed; it having also been upwards of 150 years, are said to have been pre-intimated, that to encourage or countenance a sented to the garden by Sir Joseph Banks, the dis- tumultuous assembly at this particular period might tinguished naturalist, who here studied the first be attended with consequences more serious than principles of botany. Of Sir Hans Sloane, and of have hitherto been apprehended; desirous, therehis numerous public benefactions, we have already fore, of testifying her regard and obedience to spoken in our account of the British Museum.* those laws by which she is happily protected, she only remains, therefore, to add that he was a con- is determined, though much to her loss, not to sell tributor of natural specimens of rocks from the Cross Buns on that day to any person whatever, Giant's Causeway to Pope's Grotto at Twickenham; but Chelsea buns as usual.” that he attended Queen Anne in her last illness at Kensington; and that he was the first member of the medical profession on whom a baronetcy was conferred.

It

The Bun-house was much frequented during the palmy days of Ranelagh, after the closing of which the bun trade declined. Notwithstanding this, on Good Friday, April 18th, 1839, upwards of 24,000 buns were sold here. Soon after, the Bun-house was sold and pulled down; and at the same time was dispersed a collection of pictures, models, grotesque figures, and modern antiques, which had for a century added the attractions of a museum to the bun celebrity. Another bun-house was built in its place, but the olden charm of the place had fled, and Chelsea buns are now only matters of history.

During the last century, and early in the present, a pleasant walk across green fields, intersected with hedges and ditches, led the pedestrian from Westminster and Millbank to "The Old Bun House" at Chelsea. This far-famed establishment, which possessed a sort of rival museum to Don Saltero's, stood at the end of Jew's Row (now Pimlico Road), not far from Grosvenor Row. The building was a one-storeyed structure, with a colonnade projecting over the foot pavement, and was demolished in Sir Richard Phillips, in his "Morning's Walk 1839, after having enjoyed the favour of the public from London to Kew," a few years before the for more than a century and a half. Chelsea has demolition of the old Bun-house, after describing been famed for its buns since the commencement his ramble through Pimlico, writes: "I soon turned of the last century. Swift, in his "Journal to the corner of a street which took me out of sight Stella," 1712, writes, "Pray are not the fine buns of the space on which once stood the gay Ranelagh. sold here in our town as the rare Chelsea buns? I... Before me appeared the shop so famed for bought one to-day in my walk," &c. It was for many years the custom of the Royal Family, and the nobility and gentry, to visit the Bun-house in the morning. George II., Queen Caroline, and the princesses frequently honoured the proprietor, Mrs. | Hand, with their company, as did also George III. and Queen Charlotte; and her Majesty presented Mrs. Hand with a silver half-gallon mug, with five guineas in it. On Good Friday mornings the Bunhouse used to present a scene of great bustle upwards of 50,000 persons have assembled here, when disturbances often arose among the London

• See Vol. IV., p. 494.

Chelsea buns, which for above thirty years I have never passed without filling my pockets. In the original of these shops-for even of Chelsea buns there are counterfeits-are preserved mementoes of domestic events in the first half of the past century. The bottle-conjuror is exhibited in a toy of his own age; portraits are also displayed of Duke William and other noted personages; a model of a British soldier, in the stiff costume of the same age; and some grotto-works, serve to indicate the taste of a former owner, and were, perhaps, intended to rival the neighbouring exhibition at Don Saltero's. These buns have afforded a competency, and even wealth, to four generations of the same family;

Foundation of the Hospital-The Story of Nell Gwynne and the Wounded Soldier-Chelsea College-Archbishop Bancroft's Legacy-Transference
of the College to the Royal Society-The Property sold to Sir Stephen Fox, and afterwards given as a Site for the Hospital-Lord
Ranelagh's Mansion-Dr. Monsey-The Chudleigh Family-The Royal Hospital described-Lying in State of the Duke of Wellington-
Regulations for the Admission of Pensioners-A few Veritable Centenarians-The "Snow Shoes" Tavern-The Duke of York's School-
Ranelagh Gardens, and its Former Glories-The Victoria Hospital for Sick Children.

On the west side of the Physic Garden, with its | Christopher Wren.
lawns and flower-beds stretching almost down to
the river, stands a noble hospital, the counterpart
of that at Greenwich, still providing an asylum for
invalid soldiers-as its rival did, till recently, for
sailors worn out in the service of their country.

It is well known that the foundation of this splendid institution was the work of Charles II. John Evelyn has the following entry in his "Diary," under date 27th of January, 1682 :-" This evening Sir Stephen Fox acquainted me againe with his Majesty's resolution of proceeding in the erection of a royal hospital for merited soldiers, on that spot of ground which the Royal Society had sold to his Majesty for £1,300, and that he would settle £5,000 per annum on it, and build to the value of £20,000, for the reliefe and reception of four companies-viz., 400 men, to be as in a colledge or monasterie.". It appears that Evelyn was largely consulted by the king and Sir Stephen Fox as to the details of the new building, the growth of whose foundations and walls he watched constantly, as he tells us in his "Diary."

It was not without a pang that the British public saw Greenwich "disestablished ;" and, observes a writer in the Times, "the parting with the woodenlegged veterans, in their antique garb, and with their garrulous prattle--too often, it is to be feared, apocryphal-about Nelson, Duncan, Jervis, and Collingwood, was like the parting from old friends. The associations connected with Chelsea Hospital," continues the writer, "possess nearly the same historical interest with those awakened by Greenwich. Both piles-although that upon the river-bank is by far the more splendid edifice-were built by Sir

Chelsea has yet a stronger

claim upon our sympathies, since, according to popular tradition, the first idea of converting it into an asylum for broken-down soldiers sprang from the charitable heart of Nell Gwynne, the frail actress, with whom, for all her frailties, the English people can never be angry. As the story goes, a wounded and destitute soldier hobbled up to Nellie's coachwindow to ask alms, and the kind-hearted woman was so pained to see a man who had fought for his country begging his bread in the street that she prevailed on Charles II. to establish at Chelsea a permanent home for military invalids. We should like to believe the story; and, indeed, its veracity may not be incompatible with a far less pleasant report, that the second Charles made a remarkably good thing, in a pecuniary sense, out of Chelsea Hospital."

Before entering upon an account of Chelsea Hospital, it may be desirable to notice here a collegiate building which formerly occupied the site of this great national edifice. This college was originated, soon after the commencement of the seventeenth century, by Dr. Matthew Sutcliffe, Dean of Exeter, for the study of polemical divinity. King James I. laid the first stone of the edifice, in May, 1609, and bestowed on it the name of "King James's College at Chelsey." According to the Charter of Incorporation, the number of members was limited to a provost and nineteen fellows, seventeen of whom were required to be in holy orders; the other two might be either laymen or divines, and they were to be employed in recording the chief historical events of the era. Dr. Sutcliffe was himself the first provost, and Camden and Hayward were the first

Chelsea.]

THE COLLEGE.

71

historians. Archbishop Laud called the institution it was afterwards granted to the Royal Society. "Controversy College;" and, according to "Alleyn's This body, in turn, sold the property to Sir Stephen Life," "the Papists, in derision, gave it the name of Fox, for Charles II., who "generously gave" it an alehouse." as a site for a Royal Hospital for Aged and Disabled Soldiers, but at the same time pocketing Dr. Sutcliffe's endowment, and leaving the building to be erected at the cost of the nation.

It is, perhaps, worthy of a passing note that Archbishop Bancroft left the books which formed the nucleus of the library at Lambeth Palace, to his successors in the see of Canterbury, with the condition that if certain stipulations were not complied with, his legacy should go to Chelsea College, if built within six years of his own decease.

From a print of the original design, prefixed to Darley's "Glory of Chelsey College new Revived" (a copy of which is published in Faulkner's "History of Chelsea "), it would appear that the buildings were originally intended to combine two quadrangles, of different, but spacious, dimensions, with a piazza along the four sides of the smaller court. Only one side of the first quadrangle, however, was completed, and the whole collegiate establishment very soon collapsed. Evelyn tells us that the plan of Chelsea College embraced a quadrangle, with accommodation for 440 persons, "after the dimensions of the larger quadrangle at Christchurch, Oxford." Shortly after the death of the third provost, Dr. Slater, which occurred in 1645, suits were commenced in the Court of Chancery respecting the title to the ground on which the college stood, when it was decreed that Dr. Sutcliffe's estates should revert to his rightful heirs, upon their paying to the college a certain sum of money. The college buildings were afterwards devoted to various inappropriate purposes, being at one time used as a receptacle for prisoners of war, and at another as a riding-house.

Its next destination would appear to have been of a higher order; for it appears that the king gave it, or offered it, to the then newly-founded Royal Society. John Evelyn writes, in his "Diary," under date September 24th, 1667 :-"Returned to London, where I had orders to deliver the possession of Chelsey Colledge (used as my prison during the warr with Holland, for such as were sent from the Fleete to London) to our Society [the Royal Society], as a gift of his Majesty, our founder." And again, under date September, 14th, 1681, Evelyn writes:-"Din'd with Sir Stephen Fox, who proposed to me the purchasing of Chelsey College, which his Majesty had some time since given to our Society, and would now purchase it again to build a hospital or infirmary for soldiers there, in which he desired my assistance, as one of the council of the Royal Society."

On the failure of the college, the ground escheated to the Crown, by whom, as stated above,

On part of the site of the college was erected, towards the close of the seventeenth century, the mansion of the Earls of Ranelagh, whose name was perpetuated in that of the gardens which were ultimately opened to the public on that spot.

We read in the Weekly Post, of 1714, a rumour to the effect that "the Duke and Duchess of Marlborough are to have the late Earl of Ranelagh's house at Chelsea College;" but the arrangement does not appear to have been carried out, for in 1730 an Act was passed, vesting the estates of the Earl of Ranelagh in trustees; and a few years later the house and premises were sold in lots, and shortly afterwards opened as a place of public entertainment, of which we shall have more to say presently. Lord Ranelagh's house and gardens are thus described by Bowack, in 1705:-"The house, built with brick and cornered with stone, is not large, but very convenient, and may well be called a cabinet. It stands a good distance from the Thames. In finishing the whole, his lordship has spared neither labour nor cost. The very greenhouses and stables, adorned with festoons and urns, have an air of grandeur not to be seen in many princes' palaces."

Again, in Gibson's "View of the Gardens near London," published in 1691, these grounds are thus described:-"My Lord Ranelagh's garden being but lately made, the plants are but small, but the plats, border, and walks are curiously kept and elegantly designed, having the advantage of opening into Chelsea College walks. The kitchengarden there lies very fine, with walks and seats; one of which, being large and covered, was then under the hands of a curious painter. The house there is very fine within, all the rooms being wainscoted with Norway oak, and all the chimneys adorned with carving, as in the council-chamber in Chelsea College." The staircase was painted by Noble, who died in 1700.

A portion of the old college seems to have remained standing for many years, and ultimately to have become the residence of Dr. Messenger Monsey, one of Dr. Johnson's literary acquaintances, and many years Physician to the Royal Hospital.

From Boswell's "Life of Johnson" we learn that the character of Dr. Monsey, in point of natural humour, is thought to have borne a near resem