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the king rose, left his paramour, and shut himself give these things, and bad men will soon take up in his chamber “ in great perturbation of spirit.” them away.” At the commencement of the present At that perturbation we need not wonder--the century modern windows, with frames of woodgreatest man of the realm had been beheaded work, were introduced. These, it need hardly be as a victim to the royal lust. It may be truly said, in no way improved the already mean appearsaid that during the reign of Henry VIII. there ance of the fabric. More's chapel, which was an lived and moved, in a prominent position, but one absolute freehold, and beyond the control of the man whose memory is held in high esteem by all bishop, was allowed to fall into a very dilapidated parties, and that man was Sir Thomas More. condition ; but it has recently been purchased by Protestants as well as Roman Catholics alike vene- a Mr. R. H. Davies, who has transferred it to rated his name, while they held his life up as a the rector, churchwardens, and trustees of the new model for all time, and even the more extreme church of St. Luke, under whose charge the old Protestants had less to say in his disfavour than parish church is placed ; and it has since been about any other leading son of the Church. Risen partially restored. The church was considerably through his own exertions from comparative ob- enlarged in the middle of the seventeenth century, scurity, Sir Thomas More held the highest lay at which time the heavy brick tower at the west position in the land, bore off the palm in learning end was erected. The interior consists of a nave, as in probity, was faithful to his God as well as chancel, and two aisles, comprehending the two to his king and to his own lofty principles, and chapels above mentioned. The roof of the chancel died because he would not and could not make is arched, and it is separated from the nave by a his conscience truckle to the lewd desires of semi-circular arch, above which hang several escuthis earthly master. A grand lawyer, a great cheons and banners; the latter, very faded and statesman, a profound politician, an example of tattered, are said to have been the needlework of domesticity for all generations, a deep student Queen Charlotte, by whom they were presented to of the things of the spiritual as well as of the tem- the Royal Volunteers. They were deposited here poral life, and a Catholic of Catholics—Sir Thomas on the disbandment of the regiment. Near the More earned and commanded, and will continue to south-west corner of the church, resting upon a command, the profoundest respect of all high-window-sill, is an ancient book-case and desk, on minded Englishmen. Sir Thomas More, indeed, which are displayed a chained Bible, a Book of was justly called by Thomson, in his “Seasons ”– Homilies, and some other works, including “Foxe's

“A dauntless soul erect, who smiled on death.” Book of Martyrs.” In the porch, placed upon Sir Thomas More's house appears to have become brackets on the wall, is a bell, which was presented afterwards the residence of royalty. Anne of to the church by the Hon. William Ashburnham, Cleves died here in 1557; and Katharine Parr in 1679, in commemoration of his escape from occupied it after her re-marriage with Admiral drowning. It appears, from a tablet on the wall, Seymour, having charge of the Princess Elizabeth, that Mr. Ashburnham was walking on the bank of then a child of thirteen.

the Thames at Chelsea one very dark night in The old parish church of Chelsea, dedicated to winter, apparently in a meditative mood, and had St. Luke, stands parallel with the river. It is con- strayed into the river, when he was suddenly brought structed chiefly of brick, and is by no means con to a sense of his situation by hearing the church spicuous for beauty. It appears to have been clock strike nine. Mr. Ashburnham left a sum of erected piecemeal at different periods, and the money to the parish to pay for the ringing of the builders do not seem to have aimed in the slightest bell every evening at nine o'clock, but the custom degree at architectural arrangement; nevertheless, was discontinued in 1825. The bell, after lying though the building is sadly incongruous and much neglected for many years in the clock-room, was barbarised, its interior is still picturesque. The placed in its present position after a silence of chancel and a part of the north aisle are the only thirty years. portions which can lay claim to antiquity; the The monuments in the church are both numeformer was rebuilt shortly before the Reformation. rous and interesting. On the north side of the The eastern end of the north aisle is the chapel of chancel is an ancient altar-tomb without any inthe Lawrence family, which was probably founded scription, but supposed to belong to the family of in the fourteenth century. The southern aisle was Bray, of Eaton. On the south wall of the chancel erected at the cost of good Sir Thomas More, who is a tablet of black marble, surmounted by a flat also gave the communion plate. With a forecast Gothic arch, in memory of Sir Thomas More. It of the coming troubles, he remarked, “Good men was originally erected by himself, in 1532, some




is death ; bute of Sir John toerfect master o

three years before his death; but being much he took pupils at Chelsea. He wrote the preface worn, it was restored, at the expense of Sir John to Cicero's Works, as edited by Gale, and was a Lawrence, of Chelsea, in the reign of Charles I., perfect master of the Latin style. Collier says of him and again by subscription, in 1833.

that his erudition gained for him the title of "the The Latin inscription was written by More Great Dictator of Learning.” In the churchyard himself; but an allusion to "heretics,” which it is a monument to Sir Hans Sloane, the physician: contained, is stated to have been purposely omitted | It consists of an inscribed pedestal, upon which when the monument was restored. A blank space is placed a large vase of white marble, entwined is left for the word. Although More's first wife with serpents, and the whole is surmounted by a lies buried here, the place of interment of Sir portico supported by four pillars. Thomas himself is somewhat doubtful. Weever | In the old burial-ground lie Andrew Millar, the and Anthony Wood say that his daughter, Margaret eminent London bookseller, and John B. Cipriani, Roper, removed his body to Chelsea. Earlier one of the earliest members of the Royal Academy.f writers, however, differ as to the precise spot of The new church of St. Luke, situated between his burial, some saying that he was interred in the King's Road and Fulham Road, was built by James belfry, and others near the vestry of the chapel Savage, in 1820, in imitation of the style of the of St. Peter, in the Tower. It is recorded that his fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, and has a pinnadaughter took thither the body of Bishop Fisher, cled tower, nearly 150 feet high. It is, however, that it might lie near her father's, and, therefore, it a poor specimen of modern Gothic. The most is probable that the Tower still contains his ashes. remarkable feature of the building is the roof of The head of Sir Thomas More is deposited in St. the nave, which is vaulted with stone, with a clear Dunstan's Church at Canterbury, where it is pre- height of sixty feet from the pavement to the crown served in a niche in the wall, secured by an iron of the vault. The porch extends the whole width grate, near the coffin of Margaret Roper.

of the west front, and is divided by piers and arches In the south aisle is a fine monument to Lord and into five bays, the central one of which forms the Lady Dacre, dated 1594. It was this Lady Dacre lower storey of the tower. The large east window is who erected the almshouses in Westminster which filled with stained glass, and beneath it is a fine bore her name.* She was sister to Thomas Sack- altar-screen of antique design. Immediately over ville, Earl of Dorset, the poet. In the north aisle the altar is a painting, “ The Entombing of Christ," is the monument of Lady Jane Cheyne, daughter said to be by Northcote. The church will seat of William Cavendish, Duke of Newcastle, and about 2,000 persons, and was erected at a cost of wife of Charles Cheyne, after whom Cheyne Row ! about £40,000—the first stone being laid by the is named. The monument is the work of Bernini, Duke of Wellington. The first two rectors of the and is said to have cost £500. Here is buried new church were Dr. Gerard V. Wellesley (whose Adam Littleton, Prebendary of Westminster and name is still retained in Wellesley Street), brother Rector of Chelsea, the author of a once celebrated of the Duke of Wellington, and the Rev. Charles Latin Dictionary. He was at one time “usher" Kingsley, father of Charles Kingsley, Canon of Westof Westminster School; and after the Restoration minster, and author of “Alton Locke, &c.

CHELSE A (continued).
"Then, farewell, my trim-built wherry;

Oars, and coat, and badge, farewell !
Never more at Chelsea Ferry

Shall your Thomas take a spell."-Dibdin.
Cheyne Walk-An Eccentric Mise:-Dominicetti, an Italian Quack-Don Saltero's Coffee House and Museum-Catalogue of Rarities in the

Museum-Thomas Carlyle-Chelsea Embankment-Albert Bridge--The Mulberry Garden--The “Swan" Inn-The Rowing Matches for**

Doggett's Coat and Badge–The Botanic Gardens-The Old Bun-house. VISITORS to Chelsea by water, landing at the stretching away eastward, overlooking the river, Cadogan Pier, will not fail to be struck by the and screened by a row of trees. This is Cheyne antique appearance of the long terrace of houses Walk, so named after Lord Cheyne, who owned the

• Sce Vol. IV., p. 12.

+ See Faulkner's "History of Chelsea," vol. ii., p. 38.

manor of Chelsea near the close of the seventeenth of the same for her sole use and benefit, and that century. The houses are mostly of dark-red brick, of her heirs." He was buried at North Marston, with heavy window-frames, and they have about near Aylesbury, where he held a landed property, them altogether an old-fashioned look, such as we and where the Queen ordered a painted window are accustomed to find in buildings of the time of to be put up to his memory. A sketch of the Queen Anne. The place, from its air of repose career of this modern rival of John Elwes will

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and seclusion, has always reckoned among its in- | be found in Chambers' “Book of Days.” Here, habitants a large number of successful artists and too, lived Dominicetti, an Italian quack, who literary celebrities.

made a great noise in his day by the introducHere, in a large house very scantily furnished, tion of medicated baths, which he established in lived during the latter portion of his existence Cheyne Walk, in 1765. It is thus immortalised we can scarcely call it life—Mr. John Camden in Boswell's “Life of Johnson :"_"There was a Neild, the eccentric miser, who, at his decease pretty large circle this evening. Dr. Johnson was in August, 1852, left his scrapings and savings, in very good humour, lively, and ready to talk upon amounting to half a million sterling, to the Queen, all subjects. Dominicetti being mentioned, he “ begging Her Majesty's most gracious acceptance would not allow him any merit. There is nothing




in all this boasted system. No, sir; medicated fumigated; but be sure that the steam be directed baths can be no better than warm water; their to thy head, for that is the peccant part.' This only effect can be that of tepid moisture. One of produced a triumphant roar of laughter from the the company took the other side, maintaining that motley assembly of philosophers, printers, and demedicines of various sorts, and some, too, of most pendents, male and female." Dominicetti is said to powerful effect, are introduced into the human have had under his care upwards of 16,000 persons,

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frame by the medium of the pores; and therefore, including Edward, Duke of York. He spent some when warm water is impregnated with salutiferous £37,000 on his establishment, but became banksubstances, it may produce great effects as a bath. rupt in 1782, when he disappeared. The Doctor, determined to be master of the field, | In the middle of Cheyne Walk is, or was till had recourse to the device which Goldsmith im- recently (for it was doomed to destruction in 1866), puted to him in the witty words of one of Cibber's the house known to readers of anecdote biography comedies, “There is no arguing with Johnson; for as “Don Saltero's Coffee House," celebrated not when his pistol misses fire, he knocks you down only as a place of entertainment, but also as a with the butt-end of it.' He turned to the gentle- repository of natural and other curiosities. John man : Well, sir, go to Dominicetti, and get thyself 'Salter, its founder, was an old and trusty servant of

esteele. “When I came curiosities, was bed in the cat

Sir Hans Sioane, who, from time to time, gave him

Tooth-drawer, trimmer, and at last, all sorts of curiosities. With these he adorned

I'm now a gimcrack whim collector. the house, which he opened as a suburban coffee “ Monsters of all sorts here are seen, house, about the year 1690. The earliest notice of

Strange things in nature as they grow so,

Some relicks of the Sheba queen, Salter's Museum is to be found in the thirty-fourth

And fragments of the famed Bob Crusoe. number of the Tatler, published in June, 1709, in which its owner figures as “Don Saltero," and

“ Knicknacks, too, dangle round the wall,

Some in glass cases, some on shelf ; several of its curious contents are specified by the

But what's the rarest sight of all, writer, Sir Richard Steele. Beside the donations

Your humble servant shows himself. of Sir Hans Sloane, at the head of the “Complete

« On this my chiefest hope dependsList of Benefactors to Don Saltero's Coffee-room

Now if you will my cause espouse, of Curiosities,” printed in 1739, figure the names of

In journals pray direct your friends Sir John Cope, Baronet, and his son, “the first

To my Museum Coffee-house ; generous benefactors." There is an account of the

“ And, in requital for the timely favour, exhibition in the Gentleman's Magazine for 1799,

I'll gratis bleed, draw teeth, and be your shaver: where it is stated that Rear-Admiral Sir John

Nay, that your pate may with my noddle tally, Munden, and other officers who had been much

And you shine bright as I do-marry! shall ye

Freely consult your revelation, Molly; upon the coasts of Spain, enriched it with many

Nor shall one jealous thought create a huff, curiosities, and gave its owner the name of “ Don

For she has taught me manners long enough." Saltero ;” but the list of donors does not include

DON SALTERO. the admiral, though the name of “Mr. Munden”

Chelsea Knackatory." occurs in the list subjoined to the nineteenth The date of Salter's death does not appear to be edition of the catalogue. The title by which known precisely, but the museum was continued Salter was so well known in his own day may be by his daughter, a Mrs. Hall, until about the acaccounted for even at this distance of time by the cession of George III. We know little of the notice of him and his collection, as immortalised in subsequent history of the house until January, the pages of Sir Richard Steele. “When I came 1799, when the whole place, with the museum of into the coffee-house,” he says, “I had not time to curiosities, was sold by auction by Mr. Harwood. salute the company before my eye was diverted by They are described in the catalogue as follows :ten thousand gimcracks, round the room and on “A substantial and well-erected dwelling-house the ceiling.” The Don was famous for his punch, and premises, delightfully situate, facing the river and his skill on the fiddle. “Indeed,” says Steele, Thames, commanding beautiful views of the Surrey “I think he does play the ‘Merry Christ-Church hills and the adjacent country, in excellent repair, Bells' pretty justly; but he confessed to me he did held for a term of thirty-nine years from Christmas it rather to show he was orthodox than that he last, at a ground-rent of £3 Ios. per annum. valued himself upon the music itself.” This de- Also the valuable collection of curiosities, comscription is probably faithful, as well as humorous, prising a curious model of our Saviour's sepulchre, since he continues, "When my first astonishment a Roman bishop's crosier, antique coins and medals, was over, there comes to me a sage, of a thin minerals, fossils, antique fire-arms, curious birds, and meagre countenance, which aspect made me fishes, and other productions of nature, and a large doubtful whether reading or fretting had made it so collection of various antiquities and curiosities, philosophic."

glass-cases, &c. N.B. The curiosities will be In the Weekly Journal of Saturday, June 22nd, sold the last day. May be viewed six days pre1723, we read the following poetical announce- ceding the sale. Catalogues at sixpence each." ment of the treasures to be seen at this coffee-house, The number of lots was a hundred and twenty-one ; which may be regarded as authentic and literally and the entire produce of the sale appears to have true, since it is sanctioned by the signature of the been little more than £50. The highest price proprietor himself :

given for a single lot was £i 16s.—lot 98, con“Sir,

sisting of “a very curious model of our Blessed Fifty years since to Chelsea great,

Saviour's sepulchre at Jerusalem, very neatly inlaid From Rodman, on the Irish main,

with mother of pearl.” I strolled, with maggots in my pate,

“It is not improbable," writes Mr. Smith in his Where, much improved, they still remain. “ Historical and Literary Curiosities,” “that this “Through various employs I've passed

very celebrated collection was not preserved either A scraper, virtuoso, projector,

entire or genuine until the time of its dispersion ;

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