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one dish in my own style-a little sucking pig, ask your friends to dinner, to ask your wife to fattened according to my method. Two hours write your cards. Sir, your penmanship is abomibefore breakfast I will present him to you alive, nable; it would disgrace a cobbler. I swear that fat, and healthy. You will engage to have him your day is written Thursday, not Friday,' at the killed and cooked, and I will not go near him till same time pulling the invitation out of his pocket. the moment when he is put on the table; you It turned out, however, that he was wrong, which shall cut him yourself into four pieces, choose that he was obliged to admit.” which attracts you the most, and give me any Towards the commencement of the century, a piece you please. The day after this breakfast considerable part of Sloane Street, between the one of four things will have happened : either we square and Cadogan Place, was laid out as a shall be both dead or both alive, or I shall be dead botanical garden by a Mr. Salisbury. The extent and you alive, or you dead and I alive. Out of of the grounds was about six acres, and at one these four chances I give you three, and I bet time formed an agreeable promenade for company. 5,000 guineas that the day after the breakfast you At the corner of Cadogan Place and Lowndes will be dead and I shall be in good health. You Street is Chelsea House, the town residence of will confess that no fairer offer could be made, Earl Cadogan, whose family formerly had a and that you must either accept the wager or mansion on the site of the Royal Military Asylum. confess your ignorance, and that you have foolishly The house was rebuilt in 1874, from the designs and dully cut your jokes upon a subject beyond of Mr. W. Young. The principal entrance, in your knowledge.” This characteristic letter failed Cadogan Place, is marked by a tetrastyle portico, to persuade M. de Morande to breakfast, and he which is carried up to the first floor as a bay was fain to back out as best he might, getting well window; another bay window on the same front laughed at for his pains.

is carried up two storeys, and finished with balusCount Cagliostro—or, to give him his proper trades. The front to Lowndes Street has a seminame, Joseph Balsamo-used to advertise in the octagonal bay at each end, carried up the whole London newspapers that he was prepared to sell height of the building. The ground storey is of “the Egyptian pill of life at thirty shillings a rustic stonework, and at the level of the first floor dram ;” doubtless about as efficacious as the pre- is a stone balcony carried all round the building. paration called “mummy," which was actually i The drawing-room windows, which are well studied dispensed as a curative for sores, by physicians in proportion and design, have a most imposing duly provided with diplomas, so late as the reign effect. The chief rooms are large and lofty, and of Queen Anne. Cagliostro's doings as a quack the principal staircase is of Sicilian marble. of quacks took place just after the “diamond The manor and estate of Chelsea came into the necklace” affair; and through the bursting of that possession of Lord Cadogan's family on the death bubble he was temporarily “ down on his luck." of Mr. Hans Sloane by his own hand, Charles, No legal proceedings were taken against him in second Lord Cadogan, having married Elizabeth, England, but subsequently he went to Rome, the daughter and co-heir of Sir Hans Sloane. It where he was flung into prison by the Inquisition, may be noted here that Horace Walpole was one not, oddly enough, because he was a charlatan- ' of the trustees under Sir Hans Sloane's will. the Piazza Navona and the Corso swarmed every On the west side of the street, in Cadogan day with vendors of Elixirs of Life and Love—but Terrace, is the Roman Catholic Chapel of St. because he pretended to be a spirit-rapper. A Mary's, an unpretending structure, dating from very different state of things prevails at the present 1811, and one of the oldest of the missionary day in our own country.

chapels of that religion. Not far from the chapel The following story, having reference to this are the convent and schools, together with a Roman particular street, we give for what it is worth :- Catholic burial-ground, with some large vaults and “I had invited Porson," says an English author, catacombs. The chapel itself was built by M. " to nieet a party of friends in Sloane Street, where Voyaux de Franous, one of the French émigré I lived ; but the eccentric professor had mistaken , clergy. Before its erection, mass was said in a the day, and inade his appearance in full costume room above a shop. The Duchess of Angoulême the preceding one. We had already dined, and was a generous contributor to the building, and were at our cheese. When he discovered his laid the first stone. Dr. Poynter, then Vicarerror, he made his usual exclamation of a whooe ! Apostolic of the London district, officiated at the as long as my arm, and turning to me, with great consecration. Poor as the building was, it cost gravity, said, 'I advise you in future, sir, when you £6,000. It was specially designed for the use of

the holic

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Chelsea.)

HANS PLACE.

99

- square. Here (at the house No. 28

the French veterans confined at Chelsea. Among the residence of Lady Charlotte Denys, and now the assistant clergy here were Cardinal Weld, the of the Earl of Arran. This building was erected late Bishop of Troy, Dr. Cox, Mgr. Eyre, and in the latter part of the last century by a Mr. Bishop Patterson. St. Mary's Church has been Holland, who had taken from Lord Cadogan a lately improved and enlarged.

lease of one hundred acres of land hereabouts, In Cadogan Street stood formerly an ancient formerly called “Blacklands,” and now Upper house, which, in its. latter days, was known as the Chelsea, for the purpose of forming new streets, “ Marlborough Tavern ;” the grounds adjoining &c. Mr. Holland reserved to himself twenty-one were used for the purposes of cricket, &c. It is acres of land, on which he erected an elegant probable that the house was first established as a house for his own residence. The front of the tavern during the lifetime of the great Duke of house was originally built as a model for the Marlborough, who, it is said, at one time resided Pavilion at Brighton, and was ornamented by a in Chelsea, though his house is not identified. colonnade of the Doric order, extending the whole Marlborough Road, Blenheim Street, &c.—all con- length of the building. The mansion consisted of tiguous in this neighbourhood-doubtless hence three sides of a quadrangle, open to the north, received their names. The old “Admiral Keppel" and the approach was from Hans Place. The tavern, with its tea-gardens, in Marlborough Road, south front of the house faced an extensive and was demolished in 1856, and on its site a large inn beautifully-planted lawn, gently rising to the level has been erected.

of the colonnade and principal floor. On the west Hans Place, at the north-west corner, between side of the lawn was an ice-house, round which was Sloane Street and Brompton Road, is an irregular erected a representation of the ruins of an ancient octagonal space, laid out after the fashion of a “priory,” in which the appearance of age and decay London square. Here (at the house No. 25, is said to have been strikingly reproduced. The according to Mr. Peter Cunningham) was born, Gothic stonework was brought from the ancient in August, 1802, Miss Letitia E. Landon, the but now demolished residence of Cardinal Wolsey, “L. E. L." of " Annual” celebrity. She went to at Esher, in Surrey. The lawn was ornamented school three doors off (No. 22), under a Miss by a fine sheet of water, besides which the grounds Rowden, the same who numbered amongst her had about them “considerable variety of fanciful pupils Miss Mary R. Mitford. Miss Landon was intricate paths and scenery, properly ornamented the daughter of an army agent, and niece of the with shrubs, and had a private communication with late Dr. Whittington Landon, Dean of Exeter and the house by the walks of the shrubbery.” Provost of Worcester College, Oxford, who took a On the north side of Hans Place, near to Walton sincere interest in the welfare and fame of his Street, is St. Saviour's Church. It was built about relative. Having had the misfortune to lose her the year 1840, and has no particular pretensions father when very young, and her brilliant talents to architectural effect. It has no spire, but two soon becoming manifest, she appeared before the dwarf towers flank the entrance facing Walton world, while little more than a child, as an enthu- Place. The interior is perfectly plain. Deep siastic and delightful literary labourer. Her first galleries, supported on octagonal pillars and iron efforts were made in the pages of the Literary girders, extend round three sides. The pillars Gazette. "To her honour, it must be added," supporting the front of the galleries are extended says the editor of the Athenæum, “that the fruits upwards, and from their capitals spring pointed of her incessant exertion were neither selfishly arches along each side. In connection with this hoarded nor foolishly trifled away, but applied to church there are some excellent schools and chaihe maintenance and advancement of her family.” ritable societies. Hans Place is associated with all the earliest Close by is Prince's Cricket Ground, which was recollections of Miss Landon, whose home it was, lately one of the principal centres of attraction in fact, until her marriage, in 1838, with Captain and conversation during the London “season." George Maclean, Governor of Cape Coast Castle, The place has always been a cricket-ground of more on the west coast of Africa. She died in October or less importance, but more than once of late it has of the same year, universally beloved on account | been suggested that it would not be bad to transfer of her amiable and gifted nature, and as simple as to it the “ Eton and Harrow Match” from “ Lord's.” a child. Her poems live, and will live.

| Besides this, there is every accommodation for lawnMr. and Mrs. Alfred Wigan, the popular actor tennis, Badminton, and other games. A few years and actress, resided for some time in Hans Place. ago a “skating-rink,” with artificial ice, for practice

Adjoining Hans Place is the Pavilion, formerly at all seasons of the year, was added to the other

he misfortune to lose his Street, is St. Savious of Hans Place,

attractions of “Prince's;" its career, however, was Court.” Of course, therefore, the members became but of short duration. “Prince's” was always “ very select :” no “nobodies” were there; “Lady rather select and exclusive, but latterly its exclusive | Clara Vere de Vere" had the skating-rink all to ness increased, the price of admission being raised, herself, or shared it only with other “daughters and all sorts of stringent regulations being intro- of a hundred earls.” How delightful! Yes, deduced by the committee, in order to keep it lightful for Lady Clara and her friend, but not so "select.” So “select” indeed had it become, that for the outside public. a cricketing husband, though an old subscriber, The “South Australian" is the sign of a small might not take his wife into its precincts, nor could inn not far from Prince's Grounds. This building a skating wife introduce her husband, or even her tells its own tale, having been put up about the daughter. Nay, further, an edict was issued from year 1835, when the colony of South Australia the despots of “Prince's”—“That no lady was to was founded, by some one who had a pecuniary be admitted at all unless she has been presented at interest in it.

CHAPTER IX.

WEST BROMPTON, SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM, &c.

“ Uplift a thousand voices, full and sweet,

In this wide hall, with Earth's inventions stored,
And praise th' invisible universal Lord,
Who lets once more in peace the nations meet,
Where Science, Art, and Labour have outpour'd

Their myriad horns of plenty at our feet."--Tennyson.
Situation of Brompton-Its Nurseries and Flower-gardens-Cromwell or Hale House-Thistle Grove-The Boltons-Westminster and West

London Cemetery-Brompton Hall-St. Michael's Grove-Brompton Grove-Joha Sidney Hawkins-Gloucester Lodge-The Hospital for
Consumption- The Cancer Hospital-Pelham Crescent-Onslow Square-Eagle Lodge-Thurloe Place and Square-Cromwell Road-
1 he International Exhibition of 1862-Annual International Exhibitions-A School of Cookery-Exhibition of Scientific Apparatus-The
National Portrait Gallery—The Meyrick Collection of Arms and Armour, The Indian Museum-South Kensington Museum–The Raphael
Cartoons—The Sheepshanks, Ellison, and Vernon Galleries-Ancient and Modern Jewellery-The Museum of Patents-The Science and
Art Schools—The Royal Albert Hall—The National Training School for Music-Royal Horticultural Gardens.

BROMPTON, which is-or, rather, was till lately-a, This is termed Hale House, but is often called hamlet to the parish of Kensington, is situated on Cromwell House, and is traditionally said to have the north side of Little Chelsea, and on the west of been the residence of Oliver Cromwell. But for Sloane Street. It has long been celebrated for its such a tradition there appears no sort of authority. soft air, and for its nurseries and flower-gardens ; Mr. Lysons* shows that this house was the property indeed, “ Brompton, with its two centuries of nursery of the Methwold family during Cromwell's time; garden fame," writes Mr. John Timbs, “lasted to and the same writer observes that if there are any our times; southward, among the groves,' were grounds for the tradition, it may be that Henry the 'Florida,' the 'Hoop and Toy,' and other Cromwell occupied the house before he went out taverns, with tea-gardens attached; there still to Ireland the second time.' It appears from the (1866) remains the ‘Swan,' with its bowling-green.” | register of this parish that 'Mr. Henry Cromwell At the commencement of the present century the and Elizabeth Russell' were married on the roth “ village" of Brompton was considerably increased of May, 1653; and it may be observed that by building, and became nominally divided into General Lambert, an eminent supporter of the two parts, termed Old and New Brompton. The Cromwell family, is known to have possessed a latter division of the hamlet chiefly consisted of residence near Earl's Court. Hale House is now rows of houses crowded together more closely than divided into two parts, each of which is occupied was perhaps desirable. “Old Brompton," writes by a separate family. William Methwold, Esq., the author of the “ Beauties of England and Wales," who died possessed of the above house in 1652, in 1816,“ still retains a similitude of rural aspect, founded, near his residence, an almshouse for six and is yet celebrated for well-cultivated nursery and poor women.” garden grounds. In this part of the village,” con Mr. H. G. Davis, writing on the subject of tinues the writer, "are many handsome detached Cromwell House in Notes and Queries, gives the houses; and here is likewise a domestic building, of comparative antiquity, which requires notice.

• "Environs of London," vol. ii., p. 507.

West Brompton.]

CROMWELL HOUSE.

101

*

Franca came from Knightsbridge property or we are

following version of the story as that which he Effingham, the birth of whose son is thus recorded had always heard :—“That on some occasion in the parish registers :—July 7, 1682. The Cromwell's troop was quartered at Knightsbridge, Honble Thomas Howard, son of the R Honourand he one day venturing to stray along the lanes of able Francis, L' Howard, Baron of Effingham, Brompton, was met by some cavaliers who knew and the Lady Philadelphia, was born at Hale him, and pursued him to this house, where he was House, in this parish. Hale House was still the sheltered till assistance came from Knightsbridge property of the Methwold family, who, in 1754, and liberated him." Faulkner, in his “ History of sold it to John Fleming, Esq., afterwards created a Kensington,” describing this house, says: “Over baronet; and in 1790 it was the joint property of the mantelpiece there is a recess, formed by the the Earl of Harrington and Sir Richard Worsley, curve of the chimney, in which it is said that the Bart., who married his daughters and co-heirs." Protector used to conceal himself when he visited Such is the brief history of the proprietors and this house ; but why his Highness chose this place inhabitants of Cromwell House. It was a pleasant for concealment the tradition has not condescended rural seat in 1794, when Edmund Burke's only and to inform us. This recess is concealed by the beloved son died there of a rapid consumption a wainscot, and is still used as a cupboard.” Mr. few days after his election to Parliament. The Faulkner then goes on to state that, though the father's hopes were blasted by the blow, and his tradition is “very strong and universal,” all docu- own death followed within two years. The house ments he has consulted “ seem to show that there' itself was pulled down about the year 1853, to is not the least foundation for this conjecture;" , make room for new improvements. The site of and presumes “from the marriage of Henry Crom- its grounds is now marked by part of Cromwell well having taken place in this parish, that he Road. resided here ;” and hence the whole of the story. Brompton is briefly dispatched by Priscilla Mrs. Samuel Carter Hall, mentioning the tradition Wakefield with the remark that “it is a hamlet in her “ Pilgrimages to English Shrines,” says :- to Kensington, and has been much recommended “Upon closer investigation how grieved we have to invalids for the softness of the air.” An extenbeen to discover the truth. . . . We found sive botanical garden, containing also a botanical that Oliver never resided there, but that his son library, was established here by a Mr. Curtis, in the Richard had, and was a ratepayer to the parish of reign of George III., and was supported by subKensington some time.” Even this latter state- scriptions for many years.* ment is doubted, for, according to Dr. Rimbault, it What with its nurseries, its groves, and its is not recorded in the parochial books. Dr. Rim- pleasant detached mansions or cottages, standing bault, in Notes and Queries, states that “the house apart in their own grounds, this neighbourhood, was known as Hale House in 1596, when a rent- down to very recent times, presented much of the charge of 20s. per annum was laid upon it for the appearance of a suburban retreat. poor of Kensington parish. In 1630 it was pur- Thistle Grove, a turning out of the Fulham chased by William Methwold, Esq., of the executors Road, nearly opposite the “ Queen's Elm” Hotel, of Sir William Blake, who died in that year. This covers the site of what was known a century or gentleman seems to have been its constant occu- more ago as “ Brompton Heath.” Here lived Mr. pant till the period of his death, which occurred in John Burke, the author of the “Peerage” and the 1652. He is described of Hale House in his will. “Commoners” of England. On the west side of On May 10, 1653, immediately after his return Thistle Grove is “The Boltons," a sort of park, from Ireland, 'Mr. Henry Cromwell was married comprising two neat-built rows of houses on either to Elizabeth Russell, daughter of Sir Thomas side of an oval-shaped inclosure, in which stands Russell,' at Kensington Church ; after which, ac. St. Mary's Church, a handsome Gothic edifice. cording to Noble, ‘he chiefly resided at Whitehall:' | Further westward is the Westminster and West In the following year (1654) he returned to Ireland, of London Cemetery. It covers about forty acres and upon his taking leave of that kingdom, he of ground, and was consecrated in 1840. It has retired to Spinney Abbey, near Soham, in Cam- a domed chapel, with semi-circular colonnades bridgeshire, where he died in 1673. The chances of imposing design. In the grounds is a large of Henry Cromwell having resided at Hale House monument, consisting of an altar-tomb, with athlete are, therefore, but slender. In 1668 Hale House figures, and a pompous epitaph, to the memory of appears to have been inhabited by the Lawrences, Jackson, the prize-fighter, who kept the “Cock” of Shurdington, in Gloucestershire; in 1682 it was in the occupation of Francis Lord Howard of

. See page 88, ante.

Inn, at Sutton, near Epsom, from which he retired Mr. J. R. Planché was living in Brompton with a fortune, having obtained the patronage of Crescent about the year 1826; and near him, in George Prince of Wales and many leaders of the Brompton Grove (now covered by the houses of sporting world. Sir Roderick Murchison, the Ovington Square), lived William Jerdan, the editor eminent geologist, lies buried here.

of the Literary Gazette in its palmy days. At Brompton Hall, the residence of the great Lord their houses Mr. T. Crofton Croker, Tom Hood, Burleigh, which stood near Earl's Court, is de- the Rev. Dr. Croly, Miss Landon (the unfortunate scribed by Faulkner as retaining at that time (1829) |“L. E. L.”), used to meet constantly, to discuss some marks of its ancient splendour. “There was the last new play or poem, and literary subjects in ;

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till lately,” adds the author, "a grand porch at the general. Jerdan died in June, 1869, at the age of entrance. The hall, or saloon, is a step lower than eighty-eight, nearly twenty years after resigning his the rooms upon the same floor. The dining-room editorial chair. His Autobiography, published in has a richly-carved ceiling of oak, displaying in the four volumes, contains many pleasant notices of his centre the rose and crown, and in its other com contemporaries. In Brompton Grove, too, lived partments the fleur-de-lys and portcullis ; and on Major Shadwell Clarke, the hospitable friend at taking down some ancient tapestry a few years whose table Theodore Hook was an ever welcome since, the arms of Queen Elizabeth, carved in oak, guest, and where he dined the last time that he and curiously inlaid with gold, were discovered ever left his house. above the chimney-piece. There are also in another In Lower Grove, Brompton, lived and died the room the relics of a very curious old wainscot, in antiquary, John Sidney Hawkins, the eldest son · small compartments.".

of Sir John Hawkins, Dr. Johnson's friend and In St. Michael's Grove lived Douglas Jerrold; biographer. He died about the year 1842, at an and it was in his house that Charles Dickens first advanced age. He published several works on made his acquaintance, in or about 1835, when architectural subjects. staying at home invalided.

At Gloucester Lodge, was living, in 1809, George

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