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Hampstead, from Kilburn Road (Frontispiece) 444 Queen Caroline's Drawing-Room, Kensington Palace 144

Entrance to Old “Tattersall's ". . . . . 6 | Kensington in 1764. (From Rocque's Map) . . 145

St. George's Hospital, 1745 : .

7 | The Round Pond, Kensington Gardens . . . 150

Sale of Hyde Park Turnpike .

10 The Scotch Firs, Kensington Gardens . . . 151

Interior of the Court-yard of Old "Tattersall's"

The Flower Walks, Kensington Gardens . . . 156

Map of Belgravia, 1814 . .

13 | Outfall of Westbourne, 1850 . . . . .

The Spring Garden, “World's End"

18 ] Earl's Court House (formerly John Hunter's) .

Knightsbridge in 1820 . . .

19 Old Kensington. . .

The “White Hart,” Knightsbridge, 1820

24 Rogers' Seat and Inigo Jones' Gateway, Holland House

Kingston House, Knightsbridge . . . . . 25 Holland House . . . . . . . .

Court-yard of the “Rose and Crown,” 1820

| Holland House, from the North

Exterior of the Great Exhibition of 1851 .

Grand Staircase, Holland House . . . . 175

Nave of the Great Exhibition of 1851.

House at Craven Hill in 1760 . . . . . 180

The Albert Memorial . . . .

Notting Barn Farm, 1830. .

The "Monster” Tea-Gardens, 1820 .

The Bayswater Conduit in 1798.

"Jenny's Whim” Bridge, 1750 . .

Notting Hill in 1750 . .

The “Gun” Tavern, 1820 . . .

The Place of Execution, Tyburn, in 1750.

The Old Chelsea Manor House . .

Execution of Lord Ferrers at Tyburn .

Chelsea Farm, 1829 . . .

Connaught Place . . . . . . .

Old Mansions in Chelsea . . .

The Idle Apprentice Executed at Tyburn . .

Cheyne Walk and Cadogan Pier, 1860

Paddington Canal, 1820 . .

Carlyle's House, Great Cheyne Row .

The Paddington Canal, 1840 .

The Botanical Gardens, Chelsea, 1790

66 | Map of Paddington, in 1815 . . . . . 210

Thomas Carlyle. . .

Paddington Green in 1750 .

The Chelsea Bun House, 1810.

| Mrs. Siddons' House at Westbourne Green, 1800 . 216

Chelsea Hospital . . .

Paddington Church : 1750 and 1805 . .

A Card of Invitation to Ranelagh

The “Plough” at Kensal Green, 1820 . .

The Rotunda, Ranelagh Gardens, in 1750 .

Kensal Green Cemetery .

..

Chelsea Waterworks, in 1750 . .

Trial Trip on the Underground Railway, 1863 .

The “World's End,” in 1790 . .

Entrance to the Clerkenwell Tunnel from Farringdon

Chelsea Church, 1860 . .

Street . . . . . .

Old Chelsea in 1750. .

91 Interior of Subway, Holborn Viaduct

The “Black Lion,” Church Street, Chelsea, in 1820. 96 Section of the Holborn Viaduct, showing the Subways 235

The Pavilion, Hans Place, in 1800 ,

King's Cross Underground Station in 1868 ..

Entrance to Brompton Cemetery . .

Section of the Thames Embankment, 1867 . .

The Consumption Hospital, Brompton . .

The “Bell Inn,” Kilburn, 1750 . . .

The International Exhibition of 1862 .

The Priory, Kilburn, 1750. . . .

The Court of the South Kensington Museum . . 109 Lord's Ground in 1837 . . .

The Horticultural Gardens and Exhibition Building 114 | The “Eyre Arms" in 1820

· · · · · 253

Interior of the Albert Hall . . .

115 The “ Queen's Head and Artichoke" .

Old Gore House in 1830 . . . . .

117 Lisson Green in the Eighteenth Century . . . 259

The Old Tumpike, Kensington, in 1820 .

120 Farm in the Regent's Park, 1750

The “ Halfway House,” Kensington, 1850.

121 The Holme, Regent's Park .

Interior of Kensington Church, 1850. ..

Old Bridge over the Lake, Regent's Park, in 1817

Old Kensington Church, about 1750 . . . . 127 | The Colosseum in 1827 . . . . . . 271

Old View of Kensington, about 1750 . . . . 127 | St. Katharine's Hospital . . . . . 276

Campden House, 1720 .

132 The Botanical Gardens, Regent's Park .

Kensington High Street, in 1860 .

133 Entrance to the Zoological Gardens in 1840

West Front of Kensington Palace .

138 The Monkey House, and Houses for the Carnivora .

Kensington Palace, from the Gardens . . . . 139 Medal to Commemorate the Murder of Godfrey . . 287

Henry VIII.'s Conduit . . . . . . 140 Primrose Hill in 1780 . . . . . . 288

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PAGE Old Chalk Farm in 1730. .. 289 Hornsey Wood House, 1800 .

426 Trinity Church, Albany Street. 294 Hornsey Church in 1750 , .

427 Sir Richard Steele's House, Haverstock Hill . 295 Map of Hornsey and Neighbourhood in 1819.. Ground Plan of New Road, from Islington to Edgware The Alexandra Palace, 1876 . . Road (1755) . . . .

The Vale of Health . . . Camden Town, from the Hampstead Road, Ma

Caen Wood, Lord Mansfield's House, in 1785 . • 439 bone, 1780. . . . . . . . 301 Highgate Ponds

444 H. W. Betty (the Infant Roscius) .

The “Spaniards,” Hampstead Heath

anupscau neath . . . 445 Turnpike in the Hampstead Road, and St. James's Jack Straw's Castle . . . . . . 450 Church, in 1820. . . . . . . 307

Hampstead Heath in 1840 . . . . . The old “Mother Red Cap,” in 1746 .

The “Upper Flask,” about 1800 . . ..
The Assembly Rooms, Kentish Town, 1750 . . 313 John Keats . . .
The “Castle" Tavern, Kentish Town Road, in 1800. 318 Joanna Baillie, .
General View of Old Kentish Town, 1820.

319 The Old Well Walk, Hampstead, about 1750
The Royal Veterinary College, 1825 . . . . 324 The Old Clock House, 1780 . . .
The Fleet River, near St. Pancras, 1825 . . 325 Keats' Seat, Old Well Walk . .
Fortifications of Old St. Pancras . .

330 Old Houses in Church Row . St. Pancras Church in 1820 . .

· 331

Church Row, Hampstead, in 1750 . St. Pancras Wells and Church, in 1700 .

336 Vane House in 1800 . . . . . . . 480 Dr. Stukeley's Plan of the Camp at St. Pancras . · 337 Rosslyn House . . . . .

481 The “Brill,” Somers Town, in 1780. . ..

Sir Richard Steele . . The Polygon, Somers Town, in 1850 .

View from “Moll King's House," Hampstead, in 1760 Entrance to Euston Square Station . 348 Belsize House in 1800

492 New St. Pancras Church . . . .

349 Shepherd's Well in 1820 . Gateway of the Foundling Hospital. ..

Frognal Priory . . . .
Front of the Foundling Hospital . . .. 355 Pond Street, Hampstead, in 1750 . . . . 499
Interior of the Chapel of the Foundling Hospital 360 Columbia Market, Hackney
The Small-pox Hospital, King's Cross, in 1800. . 361 Hackney, looking towards the Church, 1840 . . 510
Councillor Agar's House, Somers Town, in 1830

Bits of Old Hackney . . . . .
Front of St. Pancras Station and Hotel . .. 367 Hackney Church, 1750 . .
The Dust Heaps, Somers Town, in 1836. . 372 The Black and White House, 1800.
The “Seven Sisters," in 1830 , .

373 Howard's House at Clapton, about 1800 Claude Duval's House, in 1825 . . .

Views in Kingsland . . . Highgate, from Upper Holloway .

Balmes House in 1750 . . . The Roman Road, Tufnell Park, in 1838

The Manor House, Dalston . Whittington's Stone in 1820 .

385 Stoke Newington Church, 1750 . . The Gate House, Highgate, in 1820.

Views in Stoke Newington .

. 535 Highgate Archway Gate and Tavern, in 18

The Old Rectory, Stoke Newington, in 1858

540 Lauderdale House, in 1820 . . . .

Abney House, 1845 . .

541 Marvell's House, 1825 . .

Dr. Watts' Monument, Abney Park Cemetery. . 546 Staircase of Cromwell House, 1876

Views on the River Lea .

547 View in Highgate Cemetery .. 403 Tottenham High Cross, 1820 .

552 Cromwell House, Highgate . 408 Bruce Castle . . .

553 Ivy Cottage, Highgate, 1825 ..

409 Tottenham Church . . The “Old Crown Inn," Highgate, in 1830

414 Views in Tottenham. . Views in Highgate . . . . . .

The “ Bell " at Edmonton . . The Old Chapel, Highgate, 1830 . . .

Edmonton Church, 1790. .. Dorchester House, 1700 . . . . . . 421 | Old Bow Bridge . . . . . . .

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""Tis hard to say-such space the city wins-
• Where country ends and where the town begins,"

Prolusiones Paulina," 1876. Prefatory Remarks-The Building of the District-De Moret, and

his Flying-machine-Nature of the Soil of Belgravia-"Slender Billy"-The Spanish Monkey “Mukako” and Tom Cribb's Fighting Dogs—The Grosvenor Family-Enormous Rent-rollsBelgravia and Bethnal Green compared-Lanesborough HouseSt. George's Hospital-Old "Tattersall's "-St. George's Place -.Liston, the Comedian-Pope's School-days-The Alexandra Hotel - The Old Toll-gate at Hyde Park Corner-Grosvenor Place-The "Feathers” Tavern," and how George Prince of Wales was made an Odd Fellow there-Arabella Row-A Witty Lord Chancellor-The “Bag O' Nails -The “Three Compasses” – Belgrave Square -- “Gentleman Jones"- Eccleston Street-Sir Francis Chantrey-St. Paul's Church, Wilton Place --The Pantechnicon-Halkin Street-Upper and Lower Belgrave Streets-Suicide of Lord Munster-Eaton Square-Chester Square-Ebury Street-Lowndes Square-Cadogan Place

William Wilberforce - The Locality in Former Times. VYAVING, in the previous volume, completed AA our peregrination of what may be called the interior gyrus—the innermost circle-of the great metropolis, we may now venture on a somewhat wider journey afield, and roam over that portion of the next circle—but still

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---.cauers even in modern“ Belgravia ;” but

far from the outermost of all—which, not above as a sobriquet to Belgrave and Eaton Squares and half a century ago, certainly was not London, but the streets radiating immediately from them, but is as certainly now forms part of it. We hope, at now received as a collective popular appellation of all events, to find much that will be interesting that “ City of Palaces” which lies to the southto our readers even in modern “Belgravia ;” but west of Hyde Park Corner, stretching away towards Knightsbridge and Paddington, Chelsea and Ken- Pimlico and Chelsea. The district was first laid out sington, are each and all old enough to have his and built by Messrs. Cubitt, under a special Act tories of their own; and the two last-named villages of Parliament, passed in 1826, empowering Lord have played a conspicuous part in the annals of the Grosvenor to drain the site, raise the level, and Court under our Hanoverian sovereigns, and in erect bars, &c. “During the late reign-that of those of the aristocracy for even a longer period. George IV.," observes a writer in 1831–“Lord

We purpose, therefore, to traverse in turn the Grosvenor has built a new and elegant town on the fashionable area which has its centre fixed about site of fields of no healthy aspect, thus connecting Eaton and Belgrave Squares; then the undefined London and Chelsea, and improving the western region of Knightsbridge, and that portion of Hyde entrance to the metropolis, at a great expense." Park which lies to the south of the Serpentine, and Where now rise Belgrave and Eaton Squares, the formed the site of the first Great Exhibition of 1851. most fashionable in the metropolis, there was, Then across Pimlico to Chelsea, rich in its memories down to about the year above mentioned, an of Sir Hans Sloane and Nell Gwynne ; to look in open and rural space, known as the “Five Fields." upon the household of good Sir Thomas More; and It was infested, as recently as the beginning of the to speak of Chelsea's famous bun-house, and its present century, by footpads and robbers. These ancient china-ware. Next we shall visit Brompton, fields formed the scene of one of the first, but the “Montpelier" of the metropolis; and then be off unsuccessful, attempts at ballooning in London. to the “old Court suburb ” of Kensington, familiar De Moret, a Frenchman, and a bit of an advento all Englishmen and Englishwomen as the home turer, proposed, in 1784, to ascend from some of William III., and of most of our Hanoverian tea-gardens in this place, having attached to his sovereigns, and dear to them as the birthplace of balloon a car, not unlike some of the unwieldy Queen Victoria. We shall linger for a time under summer-houses which may be seen in suburban the shade of the trees which compose its pleasant gardens, and even provided with wheels, so that, gardens, and call up the royal memories of nearly if needful, it could be used as a travelling carriage. two centuries. Then, bearing westwards, we shall "Whether," says Chambers, in his “Book of Days," look in upon the long galleries of Holland House, “M. Moret ever really intended to attempt an and see the chamber in which Addison died, and ascent in such an unwieldy machine, has never the rooms in which Charles James Fox and the been clearly ascertained. ... However, having leading Whigs of the last three reigns talked politics collected a considerable sum of money, he was and fashionable news; thence to Percy Cross, and preparing for his ascent, on the 10th of August in Walham Green and Parsons' Green, and to Fulham, that year, when his machine caught fire and was for a thousand years the country seat of the Bishops burnt; the unruly mob avenging their disappointof London both before and since the Reformation. ment by destroying the adjoining property. The Then we will saunter about the quaint old suburban adventurer himself made a timely escape; and a village of Hammersmith, with its red-brick cottages caricature of the day represents him flying off to and cedar-planted lawns, and so work our way Ostend with a bag of British guineas, leaving the round by way of Shepherd's Bush and Notting Hill Stockwell Ghost, the Bottle Conjurer, Elizabeth - two names of truly rural sound-to Paddington Canning, Mary Toft, and other cheats, enveloped in and St. John's Wood-once the property of the the smoke of his burning balloon.” Knights of St. John--and so to Kilburn, Hamp-! There was a time, and not so very distant in the stead, and Highgate, and Camden and Kentish lapse of ages, when much of Belgravia, and other Towns, till we once more arrive at St. Pancras. parts of the valley bordering upon London, was a

With these few words by way of preface to the “ lagoon of the Thames ;" * indeed, the clayey present volume, we again take our staff in hand, swamp in this particular region retained so much and turning our back on the “congestion " of traffic water that no one would build there. At length, at Hyde Park Corner, which has lately been an Mr. Thomas Cubitt found the strata to consist of object of legislation in Parliament, we turn our gravel and clay, of inconsiderable depth. The clay faces westward, and prepare to go on our way.

The name of “ Belgravia” was originally applied . In this lagoon there were many islands, as Chelsey, Bermondsey, &c.

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