with foliage, small sprigs of white beads, and little tops of the beards of marabouts-forming at each side of the face tufts of such a beautiful lightness, that one might for the moment be tempted to think the effect was magical, provided of course that the wearer was pretty. The guirlande scarabee is the most brilliant wreath of the season; it is composed of a multitude of very small leaves, of that beautiful emerald green that sparkles in the wings of the scarabee; they are intermingled with red volubilis, ponceau fuschias, lilac heliotropes-in short with all kinds of flowers. This intermixture of foliage and flowers is arranged in wreaths of different names, as guirlande à la Ceres, à la Marie Stuart, or à la Mancini-forms that have been employed during some seasons back, but are now revived in this brilliant assemblage of flowers and foliage; the latter, I should observe, is composed of foil, which, though of little value, has a brilliant effect. The most novel garniture of the season, and one that seems likely to be much in vogue among the elite of the haut ton, is a mixture of lace and fur; certainly, of all the innovations upon established modes that have yet appeared, it is the most singular, and I think the most tasteless. Nevertheless, I am assured that it is to be in great vogue, at least for this season, because it is not likely, on account of its singularity, soon to become common. At present it has been seen only on some petits evening mantelets prepared for ladies of high rank, and cazawecks also ordered by leaders of the mode; but it is expected to be adopted for half-dress robes, carriage mantles, &c. &c. One of these mantelets is composed of rosecoloured satin, and lined with white quilted satin; it is deep, and rounded at the back in the pelerine form; a second pelerine, of a large size, falls gracefully over the arm in the style of a sleeve; the capuchon forms a third pelerine. The mantelet is encirled with a border of the finest Siberian sable, surmounted by a row of black lace; a second border of fur, half the breadth of the first, forms a heading to the lace. The pelerine is trimmed to correspond. The capuchon was also trimmed with fur and lace, but in such a manner that the lace was sufficiently deep to form a voilette over the face when the hood was drawn over the head. I should observe, that it was sufficiently large not to crush the coiffure. Other evening mantelets, of the same form and style of trimming, are still more elegant, the fur being ermine, and the lace point d'Alençon. I have no change to announce in fashionable colours. ADRIENNE de M—. confined at the wrist by an embroidered band. Velvet chapeau, of the colour of the dress, but a shade darker; a round open shape, the interior trimmed at the sides with very full tufts of small green grapes, and claret-coloured brides; the exterior is covered with black lace, in lozenge patterns. The pardessus is a manteau Venetien, composed of black velvet, and lined with claretcoloured satin; it is a little more than a halflength; the corsage tight to the shape, and the front descending in a point: a pelerine, falling very low behind, and reaching only to the arm in front, is rounded so as to have the effect of a sleeve, displaying the front of the pardessus. The skirt is partially open from the waist, and arched at the bottom on each side; a broad black lace flounce, headed by passementerie, encircles the bottom; the pelerine and front of the corsage are similarly trimmed, but the lace is narrower. No. 2. Grey levantine robe; a high corsage tight to the shape, and long sleeves of an easy width; they do not reach quite to the wrist, just displaying the bouillon that terminates the cambric under-sleeve. Green velvet chapeau ; an open shape, the interior lined with pink velours épinglé, and trimmed with puffed ribbon of the same hue, the exterior with tufts of vine leaves of velvet, a shade lighter than the chapeau; the brides correspond. Manteau Hortense of scarlet cashmere, lined with satin to correspond; it is a pelisse of a three-quarter length; the corsage en Amazone, made with a falling collar and lappels, is moderately open on the bosom; a deep square pelerine supplies the place of a sleeve, and falls very low; it is trimmed, as is also the corsage, with five rows of narrow black velvet, to which a row of scarlet fringe is added at the bottom of the pelerine, The velvet is continued from the waist down the front, and round the bottom of the skirt ; another row descends from the waist, and round the skirt, and has the appearance of a second pelerine; it is terminated, as is also that at the bottom, with fringe. Sable muff. HALF-LENGTH FIGURES. No. 3. BALL DRESS.-White crape robe over white satin; a low corsage, draped en cœur, trimmed with a row of blonde lace standing up round the top, and terminating in a very deep point at the bottom. Short tight sleeves, finished by a row of blonde lace headed by white ribbon, disposed à la vielle, and surmounted by folds looped to the shoulders by a band of white satin. meeting the one that confines the drapery of the corsage, the centre of which is ornamented by a bouquet of white and red marguerites, with their foliage. There are three skirts; the two upper DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. ones looped on each side of the front, with bou FIRST PLATE. PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESSES.-No. 1. Dark claret-coloured satin robe; a high close corsage, descending in a rounded point; sleeves a three-quarter length, nearly but not quite tight to the arm; cambric under-sleeves, very wide, quets to correspond; the under skirt is trimmed round the border with broad white satin ribbon à la vielle. The front hair is arranged in bands; the hind hair in a nœud à la serpente; a wreath of white and red marguerites is placed far back at the summit of the head, and descends low at the sides. HALF-LENGTH FIGURES. No. 4. FULL DRESS.-Blue satin robe; the | and sleeves a half-length, wide and festooned at corsage, moderately low, opens on a square the bottom. The fronts and round of the peguimpe of Mechlin lace, the centre of which is lisse are trimmed with embroidery in black ornamented with choux of blue satin ribbon, passementerie; a similar embroidery decorates and the back and sides trimmed en revers with the bottoms of the sleeves. Green velvet chalace. The skirt opens on a white satin under- peau, a close shape; the interior is trimmed at skirt, the front of which is ornamented with a the sides with lace; green brides; velvet ribbon lace tablier, on which choux are placed at regular and a thick flat feather decorates the exterior. distances down the centre: the lace revers is continued down each side. The sleeve is formed of three lace volants, crossing each other, and ornamented with three choux. Coiffure historique; the hair is dressed quite off the forehead, and turned back in a roll at each side to the ear, ¦ from whence a long thick ringlet falls upon the neck. The hind hair is disposed in a knot, from which a long gerbe of small blue and silver buds and foliage droops to the shoulder: a diamond star on the forehead completes the coiffure. Diamond bracelets. No. 5. SOCIAL PARTY DRESS.-Green satin robe; a half-high corsage, tight to the shape, and descending in a moderately-rounded point. Demi-long sleeve, finished with a chenille trimming; tulle under-sleeve, trimmed with three rows of lace. Lace pelerine, square behind, forming a cœur in front. Round cap, formed of three rows of lace, each headed by a wreath of roses without foliage. Small lace lappets form floating brides. SECOND PLATE. CARRIAGE DRESS.--Robe of aventurine levantine, with black satin stripes; a high close corsage, and long tight sleeves. Grey velours épinglé chapeau, lined with white satin, and the interior trimmed in the cap style, with lace: the exterior is decorated with black lace and ribbon; grey brides. Green satin pardessus, lined with grey silk; it is rather more than a half-length, closed down the front, where it is short, and rounds off deeper, and in festoons. It is made with a double skirt; the upper one, very short, forms a pelerine, and is cut out at the bend of the arm; it is trimmed with broad black lace, headed by two rows of narrow velvet: the lower skirt is finished en suite, the front is trimmed with velvet only; the broad lace falling over the arms, supplies the place of sleeves. PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS.-Dark-green poplin redingote; a high corsage, closed down the front by fancy silk buttons. Sleeves a threequarter length, finished at the bottom with narrow velvet; cambric under-sleeves. Black velvet petit pelisse, a square form, and half-length; the corsage fits the shape. Small falling collar, No. 3. MORNING DRESS. Lilac gros de Naples robe; the corsage, high at the back, and moderately open in front, is trimmed with a double revers of the same material, festooned at the edges; sleeve a three-quarter length, open to the elbow at the bottom; muslin undersleeve, and chemisette. No. 4. HOME DRESS. - Small lace cap, trimmed at the ears with green and pink ribbon. Muslin high dress. Close cazaweck of light blue silk, made quite high; it is trimmed down the front and round the border with a ruche; it is terminated by a flounce pointed at the edges. Sleeves rather more than a three-quarter length, wide at the bottom, and terminated by a flounce; the under-sleeves descend to the hand. No. 5. CARRIAGE DRESS.-Grey silk dress. Ruby velvet petit manteau, lined with satin to correspond; it is not quite a half-length, sits close in front, is easy, but not wide; a small falling collar; the garniture is black lace, headed by a twisted fancy trimming. Green velvet chapeau; the interior trimmed only with velvet brides; the exterior with velvet foliage. TO CORRESPONDENTS. Communications to be addressed to the Office, 24, Norfolk-street, Strand, where all business is transacted. We thank GOLD-PEN for his obliging contribu tion, which, however, is not quite sedate enough for our pages. ACCEPTED. CORALIE-" Pray for me." Office, No. 24, Norfolk-street, Strand. Sold by END OF VOL. XXXI. Printed by Joseph Rogerson, 24, Norfolk-street, Strand, London. |