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1861.]

SHIPWRECK AND PRIVATIONS.

141

head-dresses being very elaborate, and their dresses showy. Having passed through several villages, we came to the walled city of Ning-hae, through which one of the Chinese merchants, who rode in front of me, wanted to insist on passing, and for this purpose turned the head of his mule towards a bridge which led to one of the gates; but the muleteer, who had already told him that our way did not lie through the city, rushed forward, and, seizing the halter, dragged the mule in the opposite direction, exclaiming, with contempt, "Hay! ne Qwang-tung yin ah!” "Ha! you Canton fellows." The Chinese here hate the inhabitants of the southern provinces, and always designate them "Southern barbarians.” In about half an hour more we entered the town of Tan-djaou-po, about one o'clock P.M., where we put up at an inn to dine. Although I had walked some five or six miles of the journey, yet, as my trowsers were frozen and my shoes and stockings quite wet, I suffered a good deal from cold; and when I got off my mule I could hardly stand, my feet pained me so much. There was no fire of course, and I was obliged to run up and down the yard to warm myself, much to the amusement of several Chinese who stood looking on and laughing heartily. A fire was at last lighted in one of the out-houses, but there being, as usual, no chimney, the smoke pained my eyes so much that I was obliged to continue my exercise in the open air, notwithstanding the intense cold. One of my companions now ordered dinner, and in about half an hour we were ushered into a room off a barn, in which, on a small, short-legged table, placed on a matted brick bed, we saw three bowls of millet, a plate of pork, cut in small pieces, and a plate of vegetables in an unpalatable kind of sauce. I mounted the bed, and sitting down on the mat, enjoyed the warm food immensely. I put on a pair of dry stockings, and although I could not dry my shoes, I felt comparatively comfortable. In the middle of dinner one of my companions suddenly put up his fingers to his eyes, and began to weep and sob: he had quarrelled with his brother merchant just before dinner, and as he had now had a little wine, the floodgates were opened, and he relieved his wounded feelings by tears, while his companion looked on in surprise, and with a very rueful countenance. I offered to pay my share for the dinner, but my companion refused to let me, exclaiming, "Puh yaou kok-che!” "Don't act like a stranger." I now tried to get a litter for the remaining fifteen miles, as I was so stiff that I could not ride with comfort; but the muleteer, who began to fear that I would not pay him for his mule if I did not ride upon it, assured me that there was no such thing to be had in the town, and lectured me on the necessity of keeping my promise. When my weeping friend heard this, he forgot his own troubles, and rated the muleteer soundly for daring to doubt the word of a foreigner. "Their promises," he shouted, "are like T'een-ming"-the decrees of heaven! These litters are carried by two mules, and are made of matting. I saw one outside the inn door, but when I asked for it, after some whispering with the muleteer, a respectable-looking man rushed forward, and, throwing himself into it, folded his arms, and said that it belonged to him, and that no one else should ride in it. As there was no help for the matter, I mounted my mule again, greatly to the satisfaction of the muleteer, and we proceeded on our journey. About three o'clock P.M. we reached

142

OPPORTUNITIES FOR GOOD AMONGST THE

[DEC.

the sea-side, and having proceeded along the beach for a couple of miles, we crossed a ridge of mountains, and, through God's mercy, arrived safely in Yen-tae about five o'clock P.M., where I received a kind welcome from T. Fergusson, Esq., and his lady.

Yen-tae, it appears, might answer for a sanatarium: the climate is delightful, more regular than that of England. Day after day there is a clear atmosphere and blue sky. The cold is severe at times, but dry and bracing, and very different from that of Shanghae, which is frequently damp and unhealthy. There is a beautiful sea-beach, and the place is surrounded by mountains.

But as a locality for active Missionary effort it is not suitable, there being only about six small villages or hamlets in the country round about. Tung-chaou is the nearest city, and that is sixty miles distant,

But, besides these disadvantages, there are already at Yen-tae five Missionaries and their families. Mr. M'Clatchie, therefore, went on to Peking, where he is at present.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR GOOD AMONGST THE NATIVE FEMALES OF INDIA.

OUR Missionaries in Oude are engaged in frequent itinerancies, and find in the people a great willingness to hear. On these occasions the Missionaries' wives accompany them, and thus obtain access to the native females. How important this is, will be understood from the following paper by Mrs. Reuther, wife of the Rev. C. Reuther, of Lucknow

During the whole of this tour I have sought opportunities to approach the women. In the neighbourhood of Lucknow I was, however, not successful in these attempts. As soon as I approached a group of women at work in the fields, they would run away as fast as they could, leaving their clothes and baskets behind, and no friendly beckoning would induce them to come back. At a distance from the capital, however, and chiefly in places where Europeans never, or but seldom are seen, the women were much more accessible. About sunset I used to leave the camp, accompanied by my children and the ayah, and walked in the direction of the village, where I was sure soon to meet with a number of women on their way to the well. A few kind words of inquiry about their fields or their children, or the quality of the water in their well, were sufficient to induce them to stop and to enter into conversation. In trying to explain to them the way of salvation, I found many so ignorant as not to know even that they had a soul to be saved, and I had first to teach them what the soul is. In a remote village-Deum, on the banks of the Sye-the women were most open. Numbers of them listened to my husband's preaching, grouped together at a little distance, apart from the men. About sixty women visited me in my tent. Some whom I noticed standing in a field, looking with astonishment at our two canvas houses, I invited to come in and sit down. After a little hesitation they came,

1864.]

NATIVE FEMALES OF INDIA.

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and, on their return to the village, they encouraged others to pay me a visit. They came in small parties, eight or nine at a time.. There is a famous idol at Deum, worshipped chiefly by women. On asking my visitors what benefits this idol conferred on them, they said that this god was a real and trustworthy god, that he cured diseases, and blessed them in their families. I asked them whether they had received such blessings from this god, but they seemed doubtful: none, at least, acknowledged that they had; and some said, "Who knows whether he is a true god or not?" They listened with great attention and evident pleasure to the story of Jesus, the only true Saviour. I entreated them to give up their worship of Ram and Mahadeo, and to pray to Jesus, teaching them, at the same time, a short prayer for mercy. Several promised that they would pray to Jesus. Here, as well as in other places, I discovered the pleasing fact, that many a man who listens to the public preaching of the Missionary goes home and relates to his family what he has heard. Frequently, when I talked to women, I found that they were acquainted with what my husband had preached in the bazaar, their husbands or brothers having told them.

To approach the females of the higher classes I found, however, much more difficult: only here and there I was permitted to visit the ladies in the zenana. Once or twice I was disappointed, after having been led to hope that my visit would be received; but, on my arrival, I was told by the head of the family that the ladies were not prepared to see me. At the fair of Dalamow I visited a Hindu lady, who had come there in company with her husband, a wealthy Baboo, whom the people called Rajah. I was received in a canvas enclosure, and seated in front of the lady's tent, who was then led out by two of her attendants, so closely veiled, that I could not catch a glimpse of her face. She was dressed in rich silks, bordered with heavy gold and silver embroidery. She did not talk at all; but, to all I said, her two attendants answered for her. On expressing a wish to be favoured with a sight of her face, the two women put up her veil, and disclosed a very pretty, but timid-looking young face, so surrounded with ornaments that it appeared set in a frame of gold and precious stones. She seemed very attentive when I told her that bathing in the Ganges could not remove the stains of sin; that they could be washed away only by the blood of Christ; and that we must believe in Him in order to become acceptable to God.

At Jais a nice old Mohammedan gentleman, who was created a Bahadoor by Lord Canning, invited me to visit his daughter, who, he said, was fond of books, and could read Persian, Arabic, and Hindee. I found he had not said too much. Such an amiable, well-informed lady I had not expected to meet among the natives; and I had a most interesting conversation with her during our two hours' visit at the house. She was surrounded by more than thirty ladies-aunts, sisters-in-law, cousins, and other more distant relatives. Some of these, chiefly among the younger ones, were very intelligent-looking women. They all listened with great attention to what was said; but they left it entirely to their more accomplished relative to carry on the conversation. This visit created quite a sensation at Jais. The roofs of the neighbouring houses were crowded with women, eager to obtain a glimpse through the open windows of the

144

POETRY-MALACHI III. 16.

[DEC. 1864. Feringhee Beebee and her children. The next day the old gentleman brought me a message from his daughter, that she was very sorry not to have been able to see me alone, as the crowd in the room and outside had prevented her saying those things which were most in her heart.

MALACHI III. 16.

"Then they that feared the Lord spake often one to another: and the Lord hearkened, and heard it; and a book of remembrance was written before him for them that feared the Lord, and thought upon his name."

As strangers in this dreary foreign land,
We watch to see the glory and the King;
We tell each other, clasping hand in hand,
The visions of our faith's far wandering:
And lo! while we are musing thus aloud

Of that bright dwelling-place of all our joys,
We are aware that God his ear hath bow'd,

To hear the lisping of his children's voice!
Afar Thy presence dwelleth high in heaven,

And we are journeying to Thy blest abode,
And sometimes 'mid our darkness it is given
That we should feel the nearness of our God;
What time we try to speak of holy things,

Of deep distrust in self, and hope in Thee,
Thou drawest near, the shadow of Thy wings
Mak'st calm, like that upon Thy crystal sea;
Thou bendest low to light us with Thy smile,
Thine hand is laid in blessing on our head,
All doubts and woe are banished for a while-
Our souls are hush'd, and soothed, and comforted;
Thy thoughts of us in Christ are sweetly shown,
Our thoughts are groping after Thee in Him;
We take the word whereby He makes Thee known,
And weep because our eyesight is so dim.
Poor stammering words are ours, Lord, oftentimes,
Our faltering lips do strangely wrong Thy love,
We lisp the language of those higher climes,

Where thoughts in music all unfetter'd move:
And yet we cannot choose but speak of Thee
While journeying to our quiet promised rest,
Where Christ exchanges thought familiarly

With each enraptured soul, each wondering guest.
Then shall our harps be struck-we shall not be
Silent as now from many a doubt and fear;
Our lips shall tell in songs of melody

The glorious things we faintly murmur'd here.
Forgive our faithless thoughts and feeble speech,
And give us power to realize thy face
That bendeth o'er us; and, we pray Thee, teach
Our lips to speak Thy praise and tell Thy grace.
We know that Thou art nearer than we deem;
Immanuel joins us ofttimes by the way:

How sweet for ever to abide with Him
After the heat and burden of the day!

W. M. WATTS, CROWN COURT, TEMPLE BAR.

M. M.

THE

CHURCH MISSIONARY

GLEANER.

1865.

"I WENT DOWN INTO THE GARDEN OF NUTS TO SEE THE FRUITS OF THE VALLEY, AND TO SEE WHETHER THE VINE FLOURISHED, AND THE POMEGRANATES BUDDED."-SONG OF SOLOMON, VI. 11.

VOL. XV.

LONDON:

SEELEY, JACKSON, AND HALLIDAY, FLEET STREET;
CHURCH MISSIONARY HOUSE, SALISBURY SQUARE.

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