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is own. But he has dressed them up so well, with 80 pekoe, wbich the Chinese call respectively shang-seang, och spirit, so much verve, such gayety, such a glorious is very fragrant," and tsze-hao, “ carnation bair ;"hung.moey ish of fresh young animal spirits, that we are persuaded (mei), 1 “red plum-blossom ;" Iseao-shê, “ sparrow's tongue;" wat Maurice Bouchor, may, if he pleases, become a poet powchong (pao-chung), so called because it is wrapped up ho will live.
in small parcels; campoi (chien-pei), “ careful or selected And only eighteen! How many have there been in the | firing;” choo-lan, “pearl-flower," 80 named because the torld's history who, being young, could also feel the fleet leaves are scented with that flower; oolong (hêi lung), - ag bloom of life, and sing of it as Maurice Bouchor “ black dragon;" then there are “ dragon's pellet,” “ drag. ings :
on's whiskers," “ fir-leaf pattern,” “autumn dew," etc.
Pekoe the Chinese also call chün-mei, or“ prince's eyebrow.” Divine jeunesse, O bon soleil joyeux,
Oopak is simply the Cantonese pronunciation of Hoo-pei, Tu verseras en nous la pourpre étincelante !
the province in which Hankow is. We often hear of Moning congou, Kyshow or Kaisow congou, etc. ; these are merely • labor" teas, grown in the districts of Moning
(Cantonese for Woo-ning, “ military rest"), and Kai or NOTES ABOUT TEA.
Chieh-show, though we rather doubt if either of these
districts can possibly produce all the “ labor” teas with BY E. DUFFIELD JONES.
which they are credited.
Of the green varieties, young hyson is also called mei-pien, It is not our purpose in the present paper to enter upon or “plum petals: ” old hyson is he (hsi) pi, or “flourishiny lengtbened disquisition as to the cultivation of the | ing skin ; " Tsung-lo or Sung-lo is the name of a place ; ea-plant, or the manner in wbich all the various descriptions gunpowder is also termed ma-choo, or “ hemp pearls ;” and of tea are prepared for the foreign consumer; but, while imperial ta-choo, or “great pearls ; " there is also a kind of glancing briefly at a few incidental matters appertaining to green tea called choo-lan, "pearl flower." the tea trade which appear to us to be more especially Besides the foregoing, the Chinese have several other worthy of notice, mainly to offer some explanatory remarks names for different kinds of tea, such as ke-tseang, “ flagwith regard to the names by which some of the principal lance; " shou-mei, “old man's or longevity eyebrow;” Tarieties of the leaf are known among the Chinese.
yin-chên, “ silver needle;” tsao-chun, “ early spring;” kooThe four great tea-ports of China are, Canton (a corrup- iing, “ bitter cloves," etc. tion of the Chinese Kuang-chou), Foochow, Shanghai, and Chop names” are fancy designations of parcels of tea. Hankow, which derives its name, “ Han-mouth,” from the The word “chop" belongs to that jargon called pigeon fact of its being placed at the point where the river Han (or pidgin) English, by means of which commercial transflows into the Yang-tsze kiang, five hundred and eighty | actions are most commonly carried on in China, owing to two geographical miles from Shanghai. This great port in the foreign and native traders not being acquainted with Central China was opened to foreign trade by the last one another's languages. The term “chop” is not a very treaty, and oddly enough, though it is such a populous and definite one, for it is applied at one time to a parcel of one busy place, the Chinese do not call it a city of even the or two hundred chests, and at another to one of six or third class, but it is considered the first of the five chên, or seven hundred. great commercial marts of the empire; hence the natives The Chinese dealers in tea, who bring the commodity to very frequently speak of it as Han-chên, instead of Han- | the different ports for sale to foreigners, must not be con
founded with the growers, who are usually only small teaIt is hardly necessary to remark that both black and farmers. The tea is collected from them by brokers, and green teas are exported from China to foreign countries; ) then sold to the dealers, who give the various parcels the latter, however, is the less important branch of thé felicitous and high-sounding names, some of which get so trade, for in 1872 the green teas formed only one seventh well-known and popular that they are used again season part of the whole amount exported, and one thirteenth part after season. We do not mean to say that all the tea of the amount which was sent to this country.
which is brought to England goes through so many hands, ..At one time it used to be the fashion in England to call | for foreign firms sometimes send their own Chinese agents all tea " bohea.” This term, it may be well to remark,
into the tea districts with large sums of money, and these was derived by foreigners from the Cantonese pronuncia men contract, on behalf of their employers, with the teation of the Woo-hee or Woo-hsi Hills, in the province of farmers for their crops, and then bring the teas down in Fobkien, of which the port of Foochow is now the outlet native boats to the nearest Treaty ports. These teas are
The chief kinds of black tea are known by the names called “contract teas.” congou, soochong (or souchong), and pekoe (which used As nearly the whole of the black tea annually brought to sometimes to be written pecco); and the main varieties of this country belongs to the class called congou or “ labor" green tea are called young hyson, hyson, hyson-skin, gun tea, the following account, given by Mr. Doolittle, an powder, and twankay. Besides these, there are many | American writer, of the method of preparing it, will doubtsubsidiary names, of which more anon.
less be interesting to the reader :With regard to the meaning of the terms, many of the “1. The leaves are exposed in the sun, or in an airy names contain an allusion to the shape or color of the leaf,
place. The object of this is not to dry them, but only to he time of gathering, or the way in which it is prepared. wilt them slowly and thoroughly. Congou is a corruption of kung-foo, which simply means “ 2. A quantity of the leaves thus wilted are put into a "labor;” souchong (seao-chung) is the Chinese for a little shallow vessel, usually made of the splints of the bamboo, sprouts;" the word pekoe is arrived at through the Can and trodden down together for a considerable time, until tonese dialect from pai-hao, i. e. " while down or bair.” all the fibres and stems of the leaves are broken. Men, This kind is so called, because it is made from the young
barefooted, are employed to do this work, because the pring-leaf buds, while there is still a down upon them. Chinese do not appear to have found out a more convenient, I be name hyson is a corruption of the words he (or hsi) expeditious, and effective method of attaining the object in mun, that is, "fair spring;” the Chinese expression for view. young hyson is yü chiên, i. e.“ before the rains," by which | “3. The leaves are then rolled in a particular manner
golned that this description of leaf is picked before by the hands of the operator, the object being to cause "grain rain period,” which occurs in the third moon them to take a round or spiral form. If not rolled in this T). Hyson-skin is the foreign designation of pi-cha,
way, they would remain flat, a shape not adapted to the cally“ skin tea ; " the native name for gunpowder tea
foreign market. While lying on the vessel, the hands, 0;." round pearls ; ” and twankay is a corruption spread out, are passed around for some time in a circular Inokee, "beacon-brook,” the name of a place. t kinds of black tea are orange pekoe and inferior
i When two Chinese sounds are given, the one in the parenthesis is that of the court dialect.
is yuan choo, “round pea
manner, parallel to the bottom of the vessel, lightly touch- | known as “maloo mixture' - a medley of used tea-leara ing the leaves.
the leaves of the peach, plum, etc., and filth of all sorts * 4. They are now placed in a heap to heat for half an is manufactured in Shanghai, for shipment to England a hour or longer, until they become of a reddish appear a varying extent; and, though unfit for consumption in ance.
food, is largely consumed by the tea-drinking classes st “5. The leaves are then spread out in the sun, or in a
home !” It is currently believed by many people that ta light and airy place, and left to dry.
is much adulterated after its arrival in this country, and! “6. The leaf is next sold to the agents of foreigners, or that various English leaves — such as those of the slog to native dealers, who take it away and expend a great
hawthorn, beech, and willow — are used for this purposes deal of labor upon it before it is shipped to foreign countries. but after a careful investigation we are of opinion that
but after a careful investigation we a It is sifted in coarse sieves, and picked over several times, whatever a few unscrupulous retail dealers may do, these in order to separate the different qualities, to remove the stories are in the main a delusion nowadays, although it is stems, the large or flat leaves, etc. It is dried several times just possible that such adulteration may have taken place over slow fires in iron pans, in order to prevent its spoiling in the days when the duty was high, and tea cost from ten through any moisture that may still be retained in it.” to fifteen shillings per pound. The truth of our statement
The process necessary to make oolong, says one of her will be at once apparent when we point out that common Majesty's vice-consuls in China, in a recent Commercial Chinese tea, or rather “rubbish,” can be bought on the Report, is very simple: in fact, such tea is the pure article London market at twopence or threepence per pound (erin its most unsopbisticated form, and with the least amount clusive, of course, of the duty), which can be mixed with of manipulation. The green leaves are plucked from the the better kinds of tea, and that, as the duty is only sixbushes and gatbered into baskets by women and children; pence per pound, there is not much temptation for any one, they are then spread on a covered floor for twenty-four especially in these days of public analysts, to run the risk of hours; tben stirred and tossed in a metal pan over a fire, a criminal prosecution by selling a compound of sloe and until they attain a curled-up spongy appearance, and pos other leaves. As mentioned above, tea not uncommonly sess the proper smell. Finally they are fired in a wicker arrives from China mixed with foreign leaves, etc. : and a basket, shaped like an egg-cup, the waist of which is di. friend, learned in these matters, bas informed us that he vided by a sieve, upon which about seven pounds of tea once saw some “green tea” from Canton without any teaare placed ; the basket is set over an open charcoal oven, leaves in it at all, the precious importation being entirely the fire of which has been previously banked up with lime made of some other leaf ! This tea is said to have been and ashes, and emits no smoke. The oolong, however, made in Macao, and was sold in London and shipped to when sold to the foreigner, has not been sufficiently fired the Continent! Report says that there is a man who has to withstand the trying effect of a long voyage home, and an establishment somewhere on the Thames and who will has to re-undergo the latter process in the foreign hong, convert “ Canton caper" (a black tea) into green-tea gustor six to eight hours, before it is finally packed for export. powder, and that this has often been done when green teas
The Chinese themselves drink the simple decoction of were very dear! We are not acquainted with the modus tea without any addition of sugar or milk, and pour off the operandi in this curiouss ubsidiary branch of the London infusion almost directly after the boiling water has been tea-trade, but we trust that the details are of an poured on the leaf; they also frequently make their tea in nature. The coarse, rank tea which is sold in England at à cup provided with a cover. We have also heard that a low rate, and which is popularly called “ broom-sticks," “there are other plants used for tea by the poor Chinese ; is, we imagine, third-crop leaf, which is picked late in the the leaves of one or two species of camellia are sometimes season, and not improbably it contains a large admixture employed for the purpose in districts where they are abun of the “rubbish ” spoken of above. dant; but these and all other plants are considered poor Every one is familiar with the appearance of tea-chests, substitutes for the true tea by the natives themselves." but we imagine that not many people have any idea how
In Mongolia and some parts of Russia, what is called their leaden lining is made, and we will, therefore, conbrick tea is largely consumed. This is made to a great clude these notes with an account of the process, for which extent in the tea districts of Central China by softening we are indebted to Mr. Lockhart's “ Twenty Years' Experefuse leaves, twigs, and dust with boiling water, and then rience in China :" moulding the compound into large flat cakes, like tiles or “ The plumber has a furnace on the floor, with an iron bricks. The nomad Mongols use this curious article not pot on the fire with melted lead, and a small iron or brass only for drinking purposes, but also in the place of a cir ladle. He also has two flooring tiles rather more than & culating medium !
foot square, which are covered with paper, pasted smooth It will doubtless be interesting to our readers if we here and firm over one surface. One of these tiles is placed on make a few brief remarks on the subject of the adulteration the floor, but raised about three or four inches, of tea in China and at home, though we can only glance papered surface upwards. The other tile is laid upon very cursorily at the question. In his Report on the trade this, with its papered surface down. The man gets on the of Canton for the year 1872, Sir D. B. Robertson, C. B., 1 tiles, and sitting on his heels, takes a ladleful of lead ; putsays, “ The article called lie tea’ is composed of various ting the toes of one foot to the ground, he dexterously lifts substances, and principally of the cactus-leaf and the with his left hand the front edge of the upper tile, and sweepings and dust of the tea go-downs [i. e., warehouses]. pours the lead with a sweep between them. Then raising Large quantities are made in Canton for mixing with the his foot from the ground, the upper tile yields freely to his true teas, and it is difficult to detect the adulteration. The weight, and the melted lead is pressed between the paadmixture of iron filings is also frequent, and this is par pered surfaces, the surplus escaping at the edges. He ticularly observable in the teas of 1871 and 1872 seasons. immediately raises the tile, removes the sheet of lead and The tea-men have been warned against the practice, but proceeds to make another. His fellow-workmen examine it still prevails, and probably will until the law against the the sheets, as they are thrown off; if, as happens at times adulteration of food is enforced in England, and reclama they are irregular, they are returned to the melting pot. tions are made here (at Canton] in consequence.” This If they find them in good order, they rapidly cut them is not very reassuring to tea-drinkers at home, and the in- square' by the aid of a rule, and solder the small sheets to formation we get from Shanghai is equally, if not more, gether to serve as large ones. Paper is then pasted down depressing. Her Majesty's Consul at that port, speaking on them, and they are ready to be used as lining for the of the teas which “ owe their origin to districts with which chests. Sometimes the thin leaden chest is covered with Shanghai ? is in immediate relation," observes, “What is paper after being made up ; at other times the separate 1 It may be well to explain that the term Hong includes the merchant's
sheets are covered, and any imperfections attended to house, office, and go-downs, i. e. warehouses, where his goods are all stored. afterwards. The paper being inside, the lead chest does Seperate go-downs are generally devoted to the storage, etc., of tea.
not affect the tea, which it would do, were the lead and 2 The greater part, in fact, nearly the whole, of the tea which is exported from Shanghai, comes froi i, comes from Hankow, Kiukiang, etc.
| the tea placed in contact."
rabid animal.” Hydrophobia would thus almost appear to MAD DOGS AGAIN.
be a kind of blood-poisoning superadded to tetanus. Mr.
Hawkins says it is a probable that the poison is formed in The metropolis appears to bave been lately under some the tough viscid secretion of the fauces, which gives so perturbation regarding mad dogs, probably on no sufficient | much distress to the patient, those parts being invariably grounds, for the occurrence of only one or two cases of much altered in color, and the glands enlarged. With rabidness is apt to spread alarm, and raise a general war this fluid of the mouth, whether mucous or salivary, or against the canine species. While such may be the com both, repeated experiments have been made, and have mon sealing, there are persons inclined to doubt the very constantly succeeded in producing the disease in the inocuexistence of hydrophobia. We have heard a noted veter lated animal.” inary surgeon declare that this disease, as so called, was a There is some consolation in knowing, that of those who delusion, and tbat, when it occurred in human beings, it are bit by rabid animals comparatively few die of the inwas some other disorder - meaning, possibly, a variety of jury, Pretty much as in the case of contagious disorders, tetanus. The medical profession is certainly at a loss con- the virus acts only where there is a certain susceptibility cerning the actual character of the disorder, and there are in the person inoculated. “Many, again, who are bitten, also ditlerences of opinion as to its mode of treatment. It and might be in a state for it, do not receive the poison, is conclusive, however, that call it what we may, there is because it is wiped off by the clothes, or because several a rabid condition incidental to dogs, wolves, and cats. | have been bitten successively. I remember an account of Jackals in India are also said to be liable to the disorder. a physician, a Dr. Ingelhong, who was engaged in some in the rabid condition, the saliva of the animal is of a experiments with ticunas poison, and accidentally let the poisonous nature; and the virus may be communicated by / knife he was using drop down on his foot, on which he sat noculation to the human being, and prove fatal to life. | down, and said : In five minutes, I am a dead man.' To communicate the disease to our system, it is not essen When two or three minutes had elapsed, however, the ial that the animal should bite; it will be quite sufficient doctor thought he might as well wipe his foot, and shortly f it lick any scratch or laceration on the band or any found that he was not dead, and that the poison had been other part of the body. That the inoculation affects the arrested by the clothes. The disease is, in fact, from these plovd, is exceedingly obvious, for the action of the heart and other causes, much more rare than the public fears s disturbed, and death ensues more from a stoppage of the would lead one to imagine." circulation than from any other perceptible cause.
There is a curiously mistaken notion regarding hydroAmong the writers on pathology and surgery who have phobia. It is generally thought that the disease takes its riven close attention to the disease ordinarily called hy name from a fear of water in rabid animals. Mr. Youatt trophobia, we may mention Cæsar H. Hawkins, Sergeant an eminent naturalist, has pointed out that there is no surgeon to the Queen. Some years ago, he delivered a hydrophobia in the dog. In a rabid state, his thirst is ecture on this particular disease at St. George's Hospital, excessive, owing to the uncomfortable viscid condition of which has just been printed with his other works. It is bis mouth and throat. Instead of running away from be most lacid and comprehensive account of this frightful water, he plunges his face into it up to the very eyes, and disorder which we have yet seen. He begins by telling assiduously, but ineffectually, attempts to lap. Mr. Hawhe sad story of a boy of thirteen years of age, who had | kins adds: “I may observe as to this point how completely he misfortune to be bit on the right hand by a spaniel the symptom of hydrophobia generally present in the log, which he was driving from the house. The dog was human species is vulgarly transferred to the dog. I acied up by its master, to keep it from doing harm, but it tually remember it being stated, that a London magistrate lied four or five days after inflicting the injury. The ordered a suspected dog to be taken to the pump, and wound was small, and having healed, the boy felt nothing there trying to drink, it was immediately turned loose wrong for several weeks. He then complained of pains again, with perfect confidence that it was not mad, after n his shoulder, and when his mother attempted to wash | this very satisfactory test!” aim, he felt a choking sensation, and ran away with dread. On being bit by a dog presumedly rabid, the best thing Admitted into St. George's Hospital, he was treated with to do is to make an excision of the part, or, at the very certain medicines to allay spasmodic convulsions in the least, to apply lunar caustic. Mr. Youаtt told Mr. Hawchroat; but without avail. The convulsions and a diffi kins, “that a great many persons, in consequence of his culty in swallowing were only symptoms of a mysterious peculiar practice, applied to him after they had been bitten disorder throughout the system. At length he became | by dogs, and that he always used lunar caustic, which he furiously delirious; then ihe violence subsided, and he had employed upon himself and his servant every time, died calmly without a struggle, little more than fifty hours and in round numbers, perhaps four hundred others, and from the first time that any spasm had been observed. that, out of this, number, one had died of fright, but none
The remarks made by Mr. Hawkins are worth quoting: had had hydrophobia. This is a considerable number, * In this case, the actual hydrophobia, or dread of water, of whom many must have been bitten by really mad dogs; was very great during most of the time; but this horror is, and, on the whole, I am rather inclined to favor the argenti by no means constant, and forms no essential part of the nitras, than the potassa fusa, if it can be got, to every susdisease. I have even seen patients glad to swallow fre pected part.” quently, with much effort and exertion of the will, it is Instances occur of many persons being bit by a dog in a true, but still they did it, on account of the comfort they rabid condition, and of the virus taking effect in only one derived from the act, probably by washing away the viscid of them ; so much depends on predisposition and other cirsecretions of the throat. The spasms were principally of cumstances. Fright and irritability of constitution may the muscles of the fauces, throat, and neck, and are gener act very injuriously, and placidity of temper under the apcally confined to these parts." The examination of bodies plication of remedies is much to be commended. If the after death does not reveal any great derangement, except virus has taken effect, the disorder will usually manifest ita certain degree of congestion in the stomach and blood. self in from five to six weeks after being bitten. Whether In the present case, as in others, the symptoms partly a person in a state of hydrophobia can give it to another, resembled those of tetanus ; and from want of accurate “has not been proved.” Cases, however, are produced of observation, it seems likely that tetanus is often mistaken | hydrophobia being communicated from dog to dog, to three for hydrophobia. There is this important dissimilarity, or four in succession. however, between the two ailments : « Traumatic tetanus | Mr. Hawkins speaks doubtfully of any chance of saving may arise from any kind of injury whatever, a burn, a the patient after the virus has demonstrably inoculated the wound, a dislocation without any wound, a splinter inserted system. By administering extract of Cannabis indica, and an a nerve or fascia, a mere laceration, a mere scratch ; in so forth, you may assuage the symptoms. “But, after all," hydrophobia, on the contrary, there must be inoculation he says, “ what do you gain if you remove altogether the from the saliva and other secretions from the mouth of a spasms, which are so prominent a symptom during a greater part of the complaint ? These spasms are only a symptom / villa at Enghien, all the moral and material harvest belle of the disorder, whatever it may be, just as they are in reaped, by real services rendered to the art of self-decor tetanus, indicating some obscure irritation of the nervous tion. centres from some unknown cause. There are many hours' We, who judge these novices by their outward eid quiet in hydrophobia, the spasms in this case (that of the are biased in our conclusions by a mean prospective boy] scarcely being present for more than two hours out of other results — bills whose totals invariably containing the last twelve, but the disease was going on." In short, figures. This is unworthy of us, I have been assure the disorder, when fairly established, may be considered Monsieur is an artist, and should be judged from a por ineradicable. “We have, in fact," he candidly adds, “no artistic point of view. “ See his atelier, (who would do principle to guide us in the treatment of hydrophobia. We call it a shop or work-room ?) examine his studies in 1 do not even know the mode in which the poison acts, rough, unprejudiced by any fear of paying for them; a whether it is carried into the circulation by the absorbents, Monsieur will have one traducer the less. Such are un as is most probable, so as to effect a change in the whole theories and recommendations of the Comtesse O Tempo blood, just as the poison of small-pox does; or whether, as and Maréchale 0 Mores. Would I, if converted, mis is often supposed, it causes some mysterious effect upon the public renunciation of the normal masculine faith? X1 nerves of the injured part, and, through them, on the brain march to Notre Dame in the simple attire (it was but I and nervous centres."
sheet) of ancient apostates, but, according to that nonIn a letter lately addressed to the Times, Dr. Burdon terrible modern practice, put my recantation into blusa Sanderson gives a popular summary of the premonitory in and white? I would. Monsieur did not receive his codications of madness in dogs. The animal, he says, loses tomers' husbands, brothers, and fathers as a rule; but the its natural liveliness; mopes about, and seeks to withdraw Comtesse and Maréchale are all powerful in the ateid into dark corners ; its appetite becomes depraved; it eats and an exception was made in my favor. rubbish with avidity; and it snaps at other dogs. Any We pass through a double door; we mount a paddd such appearance of snapping shows it is not safe. A staircase, hung with silk, heated like a conservatory a healthy dog which is at large notices and takes an interest pable of raising pines, and smelling of poudre de ri in the sights and sounds when walking out. “ The rabid | Evergreens to right and left make a dwarf avenue of the dog, on the contrary, goes sullenly and unobservantly for- staircase. There are flowers in hanging corbels — camellia ward, and is not diverted by objects obviously likely to at and lilies ; there is an eternal ascending and descending tract it.” If the dog be tied up, its bark loses its ring, and procession of pretty women : briefly, we mount Jacobi acquires a peculiar hoarseness. As the disorder increases, | ladder. And the ladder leads to pleasant places. On the a viscid saliva is discharged from the mouth, the lower jaw first floor there is a busy, noiseless coming and going, the hangs as if paralyzed, the poor animal has an evident dif flutter and frou-frou of femininity, and still that perfume ficulty in swallowing, and he probably loses the power of of flowers that neither sew nor spin, but simply deal at his bind-legs. The madness is not confined to any par Monsieur Trois-Etoiles', and find that function arduous ticular season, though most common in summer, and, as | enough. On either side folding doors were opened wide already stated, the animal does not shun water. Dr. B. and in and out passed young girls, whose figures presented Sanderson concludes by advising the destruction of all fantastic outlines, being clad in the costumes of six months ownerless dogs; for usually in large towns they are the hence — whose heads were strange and wonderful with us carriers of contagion.
published chignons. These horribly progressive damsels One thing, and a very important one, remains to be speeded the parting customers with polite assurances of specified. As prevention is better than cure, we cannot quick delivery, welcomed the coming with nice little ready speak too strongly of the necessity for treating dogs with made phrases of delight and surprise. The excessive, the that degree of kind consideration which will go far to avert hyperbolical was cultivated in speech, as well as in manner their falling into a rabid condition. Too frequently are and dress. The blondes were too blonde, and made one they neglected, kicked about, half-starved, and denied | wink with their splendor; the brunes were too sombre, and proper shelter from the weather. Those who do not treat depressed the observer. There was no medium between the dogs with a proper regard to their wants, ought not to 1 milkmaid's kirtle and the duchess's train. The skirts bad have them. The creatures had better be put out of exist- / a superabundance of plaits, or none at all. It was a panoence than maltreated. Besides regular food and shelter, rama of fashion plates of 1883. In the first saloon sat the dogs require water to allay their thirst, particularly in secretary, perched on a small platform, and ticking down warm weather, and neglect on this score is perhaps, more every visitor that entered, the orders given, and the dates than anything else, the cause of madness. We believe when mesdames must positively have that falbala or this that rabies more frequently occurs in male than female / cotillon. Here the Maestro is occasionally to be found dogs. At least, the females in the smaller and tender va- | bowing in his clients like a prince of the blood royal. 10rieties are more easily managed as pets. This circum- | day he is absent en consultation it is whispered. stance alone points to the error, or, indeed, the cruelty, of We traversed three or four large saloons, furnished with drowning female pups, and allowing the male ones to live. a quiet taste that, to some minds, did the great man-milliner Nature, it is to be remembered, cannot be outraged with rather more credit than most of the garments he has named impunity.
and patented. Broad oak tables were in the centre of the rooms, and spread out upon them cuttings of pink, green, yellow, and black fabrics, interspersed with delicate laces
and exquisite specimens of the artificial floriculturist's art, AT A MAN-MILLINER'S.
in garlands, bouquets, and “ trimmings.” Everywhere the
same subdued, decidedly genteel agitation reigned. Ladies BY EVELYN JERROLD.
- foreigners for the most part, and the noisiest persons
present — were choosing stuffs and patterns, served by MONSIEUR Trois-ÉTOILES' admirers and customers serene, abstracted, and dignified young gentlemen, who (the terms are by no means synonymous, for admiration is made discreet inquiries concerning “ the next article," cheap, and Monsieur Trois-Etoiles' dresses are costly), base so many dukes in reduced circumstances. No bustle, no their reverent regard on loftier reasons than the mere verbosity or insistance. fashion of the moment. They believe in Monsieur's mis At times myrmidons came and questioned the young sion - a regenerative one - in the matter of trains and un noblemen in rigid frock-coats as to a shade, a measuremeth derskirts, and polonaises. They consider that a male re- ' a combination of colors or stuffs, a novelty in trimming former was necessary, averring that women's minds are too | heresy in shapes ; and the youths dropped a brief, digning absorbed by the study of details to be able to regulate the disinterested angwer, with the air of splenetic bards. general principles of costume; they consider that Monsieur / vorced from the ideal. And silently to and fro passed deserves his celebrity, his irreproachable horses, that Swiss gracious young girls with novel chignons, dressed in black
id trailing through the saloons skirts that were veritable , sanctuary. The sanctuary is rather like the coulisses of a odels, practical examples of Monsieur's art. I surmised | minor theatre. The windows are bricked up, enormous at a wise trade policy dictated their presence. They glasses are affixed to the walls. The centre of the room is ere living temptations for the clientes, plastic realizations void ; around it on a species of counter, on sofas, chairs,
what a pair of scissors would make of these cuttings on and ottomans, are odds and ends of stuff, flowers, ribbons, le tables. By studying those animated and perambulat shreds of tulle, spangles, beads : the costumier's room lg canons of taste, the dullest Teuton, the most primitive before a new ballet or burlesque. A row of footlights fitted ansatlantic possessor of newly-struck “ile," could choose with movable shades serves in lieu of chandelier, keeping er pouff, her bodice, ber sash, without thereby exposing the upper part of the room in shadow, and illuminating the erself to the derision of the boulevards. The choice might person and the toilette under examination as they ought to e rendered quite perfect and Parisian by a consultation be illuminated in every decent ball room. Here is Madame ith a formidably dignified lady between two ages, as the O Tempora, receiving the shower of electric light, bare rench phrase politely describes the predicament into necked, though it is not later than 2 P. M. without, with a hich we must all fall unless the gods love us, to whom I complacent equanimity that says a good deal for the as told to bow as the genus loci. But sbe was frigid. Mon strength of her nervous system. A young woman is kneelieur's establishment is uniformly iced to several degrees ing before her, pinping up an invisible plait in the bodice, elow zero — and she would have been a more than ordi. festooning a new “effect" (amongst other ameliorations arily bold Columbian who had dared solicit that ducal Monsieur has reformed the dress-maker's phraseology; it lame's advice in the matter of stuffs and façons. She is is now highly artistic and picturesque) at the side. Under
be Première, the chief forewoman; a terrible authority, the raised arms little girls pass to and fro, handing strips -od a lady whose lessons in deportment would make the of muslin, flowers, and pinboxes. A shred or flower 'is
Ortune of any young ladies' seminary. The hundred taken now and then, and plastered, with the decision of - icbest wardrobes in Paris have no secrets that she does sudden inspiration, on the skirt. It is a dress rehearsal.
tot sbare. She knows when Lady A.'s green silk was Three times already the illustrious Trois-Étoiles has been urned ; she knows every item on the glove budget of the sent for. Three times, with the air of a veteran victor at Princess B. A lady to propitiate.
the decisive moment of a hot engagement, La Première has -- Monsieur was still invisible. We advanced in search of half opened an inner door to announce that the Maestro is
him into the farthermost saloon, where on wonderfully life about to appear. He is near at hand, in the next room, like manikins are hung the complete toilettes, perfected a bestowing a consultation on a lady with an eyeglass, aproday or two ago, and ready for delivery. Monsieur gives pos of a newly-made magnificent costume, which he con
his private view no less than tbe contributors to the Salon, siders his chef-d'æuvre. He is right. I cast an indiscreet - and in a studio that will quite bear comparison with the glance into the adjoining room when the door opens, and I
comfortless barns of the Rue des Martyrs. The walls are must allow that the composition in question is a very poem, one vast sheet of looking-glass, and reflect head, shoulders, a piece of the wardrobe of Utopia. A dress of white fage,
and unto the last inches of the trains. From morning to ornamented with points de Venise, so intertwined and in- night groups of well-bred enthusiasts collect around the volved as to make the masculine brain giddy; the corsage
studies, and the fumes of most delicate incense rise into the is cut square : the whole is rich, and withal simple. It -- illustrious Trois-Étoiles' nostrils. The more extravagant would befit a sofa and novel at home, and not be out of
costumes are generally labelled for Germany, when not, it | place at the Orleans' garden-parties at Chantilly. must be said, for England. The simple creations - not The doors open wide, the Maestro appears. His person quite Arcadian even these! — remain in Paris. They are is disappointing, though undeniably Britannic. He is a studied. arranged, worked up like a five-act drama, and pink and white dapper man, with fat and shiny face; his cost rather more — two hundred francs the stuff, six or hair parted in the middle; his moustache pendent, and eight hundred francs the make, or, as Monsieur's artists highly oleaginous. A thick white throat inclosed by a say, the composition. The ecstasies excited by these re. | fawn-colored ribbon, a tight-fitting frock-coat, a chronic generative conceptions are almost delirious: there are smile, a bow that does not incline his body ; these are the breathless fits of admiration, mute rhapsodies before the descriptive items remarked by a cursory observer of the decorated manikins; everything else has disappeared for great Trois-Étoiles. His voice is strong and high; his the worsbippers — waltzes, balls, husbands, children, lovers; accent is boldly insular. He looks round with an absent the Antinous himself-above all, the Antinous would air, then suddenly speaks. He has seen at a glance what sbrink into insignificance beside those pendent rags. And is missing in Madame ( Tempora's toilette. The train Fe grope reverently in the plaits to discover how the vapor has been drawn out carefully to its full length before his ous scarf that floats behind is attached under the sash, the arrival. “What are you thinking of, Esther? Madame's primitive raison d'être of the flounce, the secret of the mys. figure must have nothing but draperies. Too low in the tie marriage of Epaulette with Bodice. It is enthralling, neck. An épaulette en liais. A suçon to the right at the and quite as intellectual as our daily drive round the Lac. hip. Take half that bouquet at the breast away. And do
The Première stands before ber masterpieces, and mod- you go to Trouville this year, madame ?" His manner is estly receives the felicitations of the spectators. The only easy, assured, and well bred. He has genius of a certain drawback to tbe triumph is that the masterpieces in ques | kind, undeniable tact, and imperturbable sang-froid. And tion cannot go into decent society in the cbaracter of their I think he believes in his mission. He will not dress every present possessors. La Première feels this sorely; “but one. He would not bestow a glance on those clumsy then we can see them at the Opera," is the comforting re Germans in the first room. I hear he refuses to make for a ection suggested to her. A moving tempest of tulle, certain popular actress, because she does not share his Chinese crape, and lace passes before us, borne aloft at ideas of ihe capabilities of her figure, and wants her dresses arm's length by damsels, wbo disappear in its clouds. too low. He converses in English with old docile trusted That is Madame O Tempora's dress, and the Comtesse dis. customers like Madame O Mores, and for her he consents appears to try it on behind folding doors, through the to give a little professional exhibition. chinks of which a white vivid light is streaming. We are A messenger is despatched to remote regions, and presleft during the trying-on process in a genteel chaos of dis ently the folding-doors are thrown open, and two young teet young ladies, clients, and clerks. The Maestro is ladies enter, preceding an extraordinary apparition. ladies enter, preceding, an extraord
A lovisible, but he is replaced by a young man, small, slight damsel, whom the master calls Mary, a dark-eyed pare, and active, who dances from point to point in the English girl, with that indescribable air known as vispa in
st of clerks, customers, fleuristes, show-women, cutters- | Italian, lista in Spanish, espiègle or délivré in French, and helby etc., ejaculating orders in dubious French, like a well- perhaps “ wide-awake” in English, advances erect and bred but epileptic clown.
haughty, dressed as a rainbow. Like a queen of comedy At last I am informed that the first stages of the trying, she places herself in the strong white light of the footprocess are over. We can penetrate into the illuminated | lamps. The electric rays emite on multitudinous scales