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parts of the panorama. Directly to the This was the appearance of that beautiful
A book of travels without one or sets, the vallies of Kander and Diemtigen,
more dissertations upon inns and porstretching, like pieces of embroidered green velvet, for leagues into the moun- traits of landlords would be an anotains on either side.
maly ; and, lest our review should “ In the direction of the lake of Brienz be one also, we shall offer one of the a white body of mist had arisen from the sketches of a Swiss host, his accomflanks of the mountain very shortly after our arrival, and kept its position during modations, and his guests. the whole two hours of our stay, though, “ At this village (Rothenthurm) I happily, its marring influence was confined found, as I had been informed, accommoto that quarter alone.
dations at the Red Ox, though for their “ The opposite horizon to that of which super-excellence I have but little to say. I have been attempting to give a sketch, A very indifferent soup, a l’eau panné, was fortunately unobstructed. Over the was served up to me with most execrable intermediate mountain-ridges and sum- wine, and a most uneasy, discreditable bed mits, forming our middle-ground to S., after that. Mine host, Der Herr PreS.E., and S. W., soared the vast glaciers sident, was the chief part of the evening's of the central chain, sparkling in the entertainment. He was quite a study! white light of the newly-risen sun. The A man of large dimensions, very tall and Altels, at the head of the Kanderthal; the portly, with dirty pantaloons, nó coat or Wild-Strubel, at the junction of the range cravat, but with an open waistcoat, and of the Niesen with the main chain; the an inner garment, of the amplitude of Blumlis-Alp, with its long waste of gla- which there could be no suspicion, after ciers and singular stock rising from their noticing the superfluous folds overhanging bosom; the Jungfrau, and the two Ei- ..... Yet, under all this questionable garb, gers, were all particularly imposing from I cannot deny but I could detect a consitheir comparative proximity.
derable portion of dignity and official “ But now that I have dwelt upon the consequence. romance of the scene, I should not omit “ The common room, in a corner of to mention the accompanying circum- which I had ensconced myself with my stances, in which there was none.
pen and candle, was a long apartment, “ It was desperately cold ; nd on the serving as family-room, guest-chamber, summit itself the east wind blew so keenly and kitchen, and was furnished accordat intervals, that few of the party had ingly with several sets of tables and chairs, courage to buffet the breeze on that point the largest of which was for the greater long together.
part of the evening occupied by a number “The temperature was, indeed, suffi- of Swiss, of various ranks, as I afterciently cold to have chilled any one's en- wards found. The apartment was heated thusiasm. It will be recollected, that by a large stove occupying a corner of the preceding hours had been spent in the room, in addition to a log fire on the exertion, that our feet and clothes were hearth. saturated with the dew, and that especially “ While his guests were engaged with the female part of our number were but their indifferent discussions, and still little accustomed to these nocturnal expe- worse wine, Der Herr President peramditions. A small hut, or rather hovel of bulated the common room from end to end shingles, had been constructed on the with his pipe, with an air so erect,and a step leeward side of the summit, and we had so determined, spoke to one or another of brought with us the elements of a fire his guests at the long table from time to from the last châlet. This, of course, time with an air of such condescension, was our withdrawing-room; and I have and had in general so much deference still before me the picture of the woe- paid him, that it was easy to see that begone interior and its occupants. The his dignity in the council was not forgotten fire would not burn, and the shoes and in the tap-room either by himself or bis flounces would not dry; cold and fatigue neighbours. His very shadow seemed to brought on drowsiness, and drowsiness borrow importance from him, and stalked entailed a lack of wit, if not of good a little after him on the wall, darkening temper: in short, there was an incon- the pewter dishes and saucepans, with ceivable difference between the bright face corresponding dignity and importance. of nature without, and the pale faces and
The titles and bearings of one or two, heavy eyes of the lords and ladies of the otherwise very homely looking individuals creation within.
at the table, were equally remarkable. A “ But another natural exhibition was personage in a shabby brown coat and still in reserve for us, which made us woollen small-clothes was always styled, by forget the cold, and assemble once more a neighbour drinking from the same mug, on the very highest point of the mountain. Der Herr Kleiner Raths-llerr (his worship of the little council), and never failed to addict themselves to the making of return the compliment by replying very laws in London, in the interval berespectfully to Der Ober Lieutenant (the first lieutenant);
and on a lumpish-looking tween the cessation of hunting and peasant quitting the company about bed- the commencement of grouse-shoottime, I was equally astonished and amused ing in the country, are not really to hear the remaining dignitaries join in better qualified for such an office a full chorus of Guten abend Herr Statt
than Der Herr President at Rothenhalter ! (Good evening, Master Deputy.) Shortly after, Der Fremde Herr (the strange
thurm, or mine host of Schwytz, “ a gentleman), whose canton no one could reverend looking gentleman,” who, guess, though I heard it attempted, took though Landamman, and the repreleave for the night with the best wishes sentative of his canton in the general of the assembly.” pp. 336, 337.
diet, did not scorn to retail brown English travellers, whether in bread and goat's milk to a traveller Switzerland, the United States of on his alpenstock. The plain truth America, or any other district thinly is, that high-sounding names are no peopled and not over rich, are apt necessary indication, in any counto be too satirical upon the odd com- try, of talent, merit, or even of probinations of society (odd, at least, to perty; and there is some danger in us, among whom division of labour the present day, lest, this truth havis carried to minuteness), in which a ing been discovered, it should be judge or senator or general keeps followed up too sweepingly, to the open house, and receives strangers, destruction of that due respect for and retails brandy and tobacco ; but rank and station which, though much the people of the place see no incon- abused, has its use in regulating the gruity in the matter, any more than social machinery. One lesson, at in a country shopkeeper selling hats least, is abundantly clear,—that, in and cheeses. The party is, pro- the present wide diffusion of knowbably, upon the whole, in point of ledge, those who have dignities to character, property, and acquire- uphold will find themselves called ments, as fit a person as can be upon to uphold them under a perilous found for the station; and the cir- tenure ; and that both character and cumstances of the neighbourhood do talent will be expected in all stations not allow of the dignity being made of public responsibility. a suitable maintenance without some Notwithstanding the length of our superadded profession. We might extracts, our traveller will, perhaps, as fairly expect a Welsh mountain think it due to his manhood that we hamlet to support in due state an should not omit a sample of his peril. aurist, dentist, physician, apothecary, ous adventures : we therefore extract and consulting surgeon, as some of the following, which is worth the the Swiss villages a magistrate or perusal of any ardent pedestrian who senator, according to our English has half resolved to set out some sunnotions of rank and qualification. shiny morning to explore Switzerland, The chief evil is, not in the pecu- with no better guide than a chamoisniary, but the mental poverty—the hunter's track in a snow-drift, and want of intellectual ability for offices no companion but a wallet and alpenthat require a larger range of thought stock. How far any man has a right, and knowledge of mankind and his without any adequate object, to extory than usually fall to the share pose himself to serious danger, inof a half-educated rustic. Hence volving the loss of limb or life, we the laws of states thus situated are leave to moral casuists to determine. often little better than a code of
“ As I did not intend to retrace my local prejudices; and it is long before steps to the hamlet of Oberried, to double the influx of intelligence, accom
the foot of the mountain that separates panying wealth, enlarges their nar
the head of the Simmentbal from the row boundaries. It may be, that kept forwards under the great precipices
Iffigenthal at the foot of the Rawyl, I some of our own country'squires, who towards the intervening ridge. While in
this position, I was several times startled missing from my pockets, chiefly such as by hearing the fall of avalanches on the were of some consequence to the traveller. glaciers above me, and felt a disagreeable It was not till after a very considerable qualm, in the contemplation of my exposed time spent in carefully sifting the six or situation; for that they frequently came seven cubit feet upon which I had been over the brow of the impending precipice rolling and tossing, that I was able to reI had positive proof, by the soil on which cover the most important; some of smaller I was treading, and of course I felt more value, such as pens and pencils, escaped inclined to argue upon the probability me altogether, and were, no doubt, eaten than the improbability of one doing so by the goats in the course of time, with now. But though I heard the thunder of wonder and relish. their fall and its echoes, I saw nothing of “After procuring what refreshment I them ; and, gradually emerging on to more could command in my present situation, elevated ground, pursued a track leading which was not the best calculated to forto the pastures, and in about three hours tify me for the fatigues of a passage of gained the valley of Iftigen.
nine leagues, I exchanged the morning “After a very hot and fatiguing day's salutation with the vacher and his housemarch, I thought it luxury to find one of hold, and set forward. The Rawyl-Pass the châlets in this deep solitude inhabited has been elsewhere stated to be situated by a vacher and his family, who agreed to between the Gemmi and the Sanetsch, my passing the night upon the hay in one both of which were traversed in the sumof their remoter out-buildings.
mer of the foregoing year. It is less fre" Retiring from the immediate neigh- quented than either. bourbood of this little cluster of summer “As repeated experience had shown me habitations higher up the valley, it would how vexatiously time and energy may be be difficult to describe the impression of expended in attempting to find the pathundisturbed solitude produced upon the way over the broken and perplexing ground mind by the contemplation of the stern at the foot of the precipices, and as I was and barren features of the scenery by aware that I should have full employwhich you are surrounded.
ment for both these before I could reach wanders over the vale and the surface of Sion, I got a lad from the châlet to point the huge barrier of grey precipice, with- out this commencement of my route to out being diverted by any object indicative me, and to keep me in his eye till I should of the presence or visits of the living be on the footway leading up the precicreation.
pices, that at any rate I might not start “ Perhaps, for one brief portion of the in a wrong direction. brightest month of summer, the peasant “ This I soon reached, and was led by leads a part of his herd from the chalets it in short and uneven zig-zags partly into these deep recesses, thus spreading among the rocky fragments fallen from over the margin of the torrent, and the gras- above, and partly on the edge of one of sy slopes at the foot of the precipice, a brief the furrows worn by avalanches and torand partial display of life and its duties, and rents, gradually higher and higher above by their presence scaring the chamois and the little hollow where I had passed the the lämmergeyer (the eagle of the Alps), night, till I came to the base of the more the sole frequenters of these wilds, to still precipitous part of the mountain. It then higher and more inaccessible retreats. To commenced winding along the face of the those who consider solitude as absence rock, up and down as it was practicable, from mankind and the scenes which link till it became a narrow slippery footway, man with society, this would be solitude; with a perpendicular wall of shaly rock but
to the right, and an awfully profound This is not solitude; 'tis but to hold abyss to the left. Had I not become by Converse with nature's charms, and see practice a tolerable mountaineer, and my her stores unrollid.
brain much steadier than even in the pre“Soon after eight o'clock in the even- ceding year, I had not dared to tread over ing, I scrambled up into the roof of the many a portion of the track, and turn log-hut, open on all sides to the air, yet many a dizzy corner, which I now found hot as a stove in consequence of the means carefully and steadily to weather. steam arising from the bodies of thirty The morning had promised well, with a or forty goats lodged below. Here, brisk breeze and clear sky, and had it not wrapped up in my mantle, I attempted been so, I should hardly have ventured to get some rest.”
to traverse this path alone. I could "What between the continued chiming not resist the conviction which I had of the bells of the cattle, the stirring been strengthened in, that there was a among the troop beneath me, and a brief degree of unusual risk in making the but smart thunder-storm, I got but little attempt, even under the most favourable sleep till towards dawn, and at four o'clock circumstances; but habit and success prepared to quit my dormitory, and to re- had given me the temper to hazard somesume my journey.
thing without much torment from my “My first business was to hunt about conscience. in the hay for certain articles which were “ I therefore think it just to own, that
I felt sometbing like anxiety creeping at the edge of a drift of snow; and these, over my merry morning thoughts, and after a careful examination, I felt condamping my wonder and enthusiasm, vinced bad once been footmarks, though when I observed bodies of thick white now almost eradicated by the weather. mist beginning to rise among the heights As this bank of snow lay in the right across the valley, and fly more and more direction, and my own footsteps on it towards that part of the chain where the would be my clue in returning, should I Rawyl was situated.
find advance impracticable, I set foot “ When about 1500 feet above Iffi- upon it. I could distinguish that it was genthal, the path-way becomes more and a bed of no great breadth, lying in a steep more hazardous. It leads over the steep gully between two ridges, and that was courses of avalanches, partly filled with all. Here and there I found a spot undermined drifts of snow.
where, from circumstances, the footmarks cascade from the higher part of the pre- were more distinct, and then again lost cipices flies over the head of the passen- them entirely for many minutes. ger as he creeps between it and the rock; “ I had proceeded in this manner for and there, in a black and dismal rift about half an hour, during which time the round which the pathway winds, a second gloom appeared to increase, and put me falls upon the very ledge upon which you to no little perplexity. However, I founpass, and sweeps down the precipice be- dered forward on the snow with as good low you. To be caught in this portion of hope as I could indulge, though not with. the passage by a tornado or a violent out many an interval of grievous suspicion; thunder-gust, which instantly adds to the for the snow began to assume more and volume of these cascades, can hardly fail more the appearance of ice the further I to entail loss of life, wbich, in this part advanced, so much so, that with the inparticularly, not unfrequently occurs in creasing difficulty of my path I began to bad weather, and early in the spring. put more credence in an idea that had
“ After an hour and a half's climb I struck me when I first observed the track, reached the summit of the precipices that it might be only that of a chamoiswithout accident, and, on turning the last hunter, and would lead eventually on to ledge, had the grief to see all the higher the glaciers. Suddenly, I observed the parts of the mountain before me buried mist give some faint tokens of dispersion, in impenetrable mist. I grant that on and could distinguish, at some distance, seeing this I closed my teeth with some- and high above me, what seemed to be a thing like repentance, for I instantly com- rocky outlet, bounding the gully in which prehended all the danger of proceeding in I had been advancing. To gain this I put à region where one single direction alone forth my strength, but the snow becoming could possibly be either safe or right, and steeper and steeper, an unwary step all others attended not merely with risk, brought me down on my side, and I was but the almost absolute certainty of de- carried down the frozen declivity with a struction. The pathway up the pre- violence and rapidity which accelerated cipices bad emerged upon a Hat, of the every yard. Two attempts to stop myself extent of which I was of course no judge, by thrusting my alpenstock into the snow partly loose wet shale, and partly thick failed, though both somewhat retarded the grass, on neither of which the footstep of swiftness of my descent. A third, made a casual passenger can make an im- more warily, and with a desperate exerpression likely to last even many hours in tion, succeeded; and after lying two or a region where the snow, rain, and wind three minutes where I stopped, to recover are always liable to change the appear- breath, and I may almost say recollection, ance of the surface. Thus I was even at for the suddenness and rapidity of the a loss to say whether my next step from motion had made my brain spin, I once the brink of the precipice was to be taken more regained my footing. I was a little to the right or left. My first object was bruised from having been carried over to make myself quite sure of the figure of some fragments of stone lying on the the spot where I was emerging from the surface; a little disheartened with having precipices, which without such observa- descended in twenty seconds or less what tion might be lost to me by a casual be- had taken me fuil ten minutes to mount, wilderment if I only advanced ten paces and a little sore in the idea of having a into the mist. To return was still in my second slide, if I should succeed in making power, but I could not resolve to do so. good the advance I had lost. After breathing awhile, and putting my- “ In undertaking this labour a second self in the best trim my means would time, it may be believed I did it warily allow, I began to pry about to see if I enough; for at every step I took care to could not discover some trace of the con- have a tolerably sure footing in the snow; tinuation of the path I had hitherto fol- and between every movement, when I lowed.
reached the hazardous acclivity, down “ After many a careful advance and went my spiked staff a foot and a-half return to my first post, and many minutes beneath the surface. At last, I gained spent in this anxious kind of reconnoitre, my point, and at the same moment upon my eye was attracted to some indentures reaching the outlet, as it proved to be, I got upon firm ground, and into clear warm a place where the mourner may weep in sunshine. I have experienced few more secret ; where the burdened may pray for sudden and complete changes, than that relief; where the thoughtless may feel which now fell to my lot. A few minutes himself incited to think; where the agibefore, I had been in comparative dark- tated spirit may become calm; and where ness, trouble, and difficulty, and, what the wanderer may retire from the hurry was still worse, great doubt and uncer- and distraction produced in the mind by tainty; chilled to the bone by the mist, the rapid changes of situation and cirand fagged with what appeared to be cumstance, and the novel forms of men useless exertion: now, certain of my and things, to a scene where there is no course, with a track before me too evi- novelty; and where all speaks a language dent to be suspected; over my head, the known to every heart, in whatever land warm sun and the blue sky; and around its ideas and affections may have been me one of those magnificent scenes which nurtured. How many have experienced I always deemed full compensation for its influence upon the passing humour and many a heavy step, and doubtful moment. feeling of the hour, whether that were The mists below were now rapidly dis- joy or sorrow. persing, and the spectacle on every side “ The dead are of no nation. Howbecame momentarily more exquisite. ever strong and deep the lines of distincFrom the elevated point which I had now tion which separate men while on the reached, I at first seemed raised but a few surface of the earth, all are erased for feet above a rolling ocean of mist, of the ever, as soon as they are committed to the most dazzling whiteness, which stretched dust; where all partake of the same corover the whole country beneath me. Out ruption, and await the same summons, of this rose all the higher glaciers and whatever their country or their parentage, peaks of the chain, with the red and or however far separated the periods of purple of their naked rocks, exquisitely their earthly existence. To a traveller, blended with the violet and silver of the therefore, a church-yard may be allowed snows and glaciers interspersed among to have a peculiar charm; and, on enterthem; and over all, a sky of the most ing the little enclosure set apart for the delicious blue it is possible to conceive. repose of the dead, particularly in a foSoon the vapour began to dissipate ; and reign country where there exists the same a vast rent gradually forming in the centre unobtrusive simplicity in the form of seof the portion immediately beneath me, pulture with our own, he may well feel as I was enabled to contemplate the bottom though he were no longer in a strange of the great hollow out of which I had land. ascended, and could distinguish the clump “ What place so fitting as this to open of châlets in which I had found my night's the heart, to bow the reins, and to turn to shelter, still enveloped in deep shade." God; where the scene around would inpp. 247—255.
vite one to number the few brief days We have room for only one pas
that compose the past, and to glance
towards the immeasurable and incomsage more, which will serve as a
prehensible future? suitable close both to our own and
“ When seated on the low wall that our traveller's reflections.
runs round the edge of the rocky knoll
upon which the church of Montreux is “ At the little village of Montreux, perched high upon the mountain side, my the spire of whose Gothic church peeps thoughts passed rapidly over the events over the foliage, on the mountain side and scenes of the journey which might above the high road from Clarens to now be considered as nearly terminated; Chillon, I found, during the course of a and I may surely say I felt both thankful long and glowing summer's evening, a and humbled. return of that quiet and tranquillity of “ Though we may believe, that the mind, which had been somewhat' im- merciful providence of God is ever paired during the varied exertions and ad- watchful over his creatures, during every ventures of the preceding ten or twelve period of their existence, yet there are days' march, and which the exterior bustle certain situations, in which the interand agitation of a large town had pre- ference of that providence becomes more vented my recovering at Geneva. cognizable, and more strikingly apparent.
“ There are certain scenes, eminently And when, after the fever of spirit and calculated to produce or to nurse this body produced by constant violent exspecies of calm; and it is by God's mercy ertion had passed away, I recalled, in that we are so constituted, that the mute solitude and silence, the many moments eloquence of external objects have such during the preceding days, when I knew I influence over our spirits.
was risking life and limb, not to speak “ A village church-yard! there is peace of hidden dangers of which I was unconin the very sound. Å retired and silent scious, I felt self-accusation, and inclined village church-yard, with its ranks of to ask why the providence of God had simple unadorned memorials to the dead; pursued me even to that moment; and Christ. OBSERV. No. 356.