road. The landlord is an invalid serjeant, who formerly served the Dutch government, and is now settled there in charge of the post-office. Both he and his wife are born of Ceylonese mothers. Their family consists of a brother and one daughter; and they live contented on a salary of three pagodas, or twenty-four shillings a month. They treated us with great hospitality, and being obliged to the postmaster-general for his patronage, they would accept of no remuneration for our entertainment.

On the 11th we left Chavacherry at day-break, and after travelling twelve miles through a level country, exhibiting a state of high cultivation and prosperity, we arrived about nine o'clock in the hospitable mansion of lieutenant-colonel Barbut, within the fort of Jaffnapatam. The distance of this place from Trincomallee is one hundred and fifty-six English miles.

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CHAPTER XI.

DESCRIPTION OF JAFFNAPATAM-JOURNEY FROM THAT PLACE TO COLUMBO BY MANAAR-ARIPO-CALPENTEEN-CHILAUW AND NEGUMBO.

THE fort and town of Jaffnapatam are situate towards the northern extremity of Ceylon, in 9° 47′ of north latitude, and 80° 9' of east longitude. The former is regularly built in the figure of a pentagon, with five bastions; and is furnished with broad ditches and extensive glacis. It appears to be the most modern, and is by far the neatest and best constructed fortress in Ceylon. It is at the same time extremely clean, and in a state of good repair. One side runs parallel to the strait which separates the peninsula of Jaffna from the rest of Ceylon: the other sides are environed by an open and well-cultivated plain. A large square occupies the centre of the fort, the interior of which is a plot of grass enclosed with neat rails, and bounded by streets of excellent houses shaded by majestic trees. On one side of the square

stands a large church, of Dutch architecture, built in the form of a cross, on a plan similar to that of the church of Wolfendal at Columbo. It appears to be kept in good repair, contains a tolerable organ, and is one of the most respectable places of public worship now extant in the island. Like all the other churches, the body of it is furnished with chairs instead of pews or fixed benches, in order that it may be the more conveniently cleaned. At right angles to it are situate the commodious mansion of the commandant, and other public buildings employed as offices for the purposes of government. The third side is composed of comfortable houses rented from the Dutch by English officers: and the fourth, which contains the gate, is made up of barracks for private soldiers. The only other street within the fort runs parallel to the back of the west side of the square: being more obscure, it is inhabited by mechanics, and the lower orders of the community. Some large buildings, apparently designed as barracks and magazines, lie unoccupied facing the ramparts.

On the same side with the church stands an extensive and well replenished farm-yard, laid out by colonel Barbut completely in the English style. Horses, oxen, cows, sheep, goats, hogs, poultry, all attracted our admiration; and in the perfection of their different kinds are probably no where excelled. The cleanness, regularity, and high order in which all the stock appeared were extremely gratifying;

and of the success of rearing and feeding the colonel's table afforded a most ample testimony. One English cow was pointed out to us as a rare and beautiful object: but she possesses the independent spirit of her country, and has hitherto rejected the embraces of an Indian help-mate. A variety of the most uncommon singing birds were kept in the house of the commandant; and elks and spotted deer wandered tame about the streets and ramparts of the fort.

At the distance of half a mile to the eastward stands the pettah or outer-town, containing several thousand inhabitants, the greater part of whom is composed of Europeans, mixed with various darker shades, occasioned by their intercourse with natives. All the streets are of a proper breadth, one half of them running parallel to one another, and the other half intersecting them at right angles. The houses are neat and clean, and the outer walls completely white. From their pure appearance, we were impressed with an idea that they had all been white-washed on the morning in which we entered the town. But the same comfortable aspect always prevails. The principal street runs through the centre of the town, on the high road from the fort of Jaffnapatam towards Trincomallee. It is finely shaded on each side by rows of large trees, towering above the houses, which are only one story high, but raised a few steps from the ground on a paved terrace: all the roofs are covered

with red pantiles. The greater part of the verandas or porticos are supported by pillars of wood painted green: some of them, however, are formed of stone, or bricks and fine mortar. Almost all the Dutch families, which formerly resided at Trincomallee, have removed to this place, which affords them cheaper living, and more agreeable retirement. The country around is fruitful: a constant bustle pervades the daily markets; and a regular trade with the opposite coast of India affords many opportunities of improving a small fortune.

Another protestant church stands a little beyond the town, dignified by the title of St. John's. It is a coarse building in bad repair, and is set apart for the accommodation of native Christians. Close to it is one corner of an elegant and spacious garden laid out by colonel Barbut. The gravel walks, the borders and plots of flowers, the beds of vegetables, the arrangement of the bushes, and smaller fruit trees, are planned according to the English taste, while the outside of the walls is surrounded by two species of majestic palms, the characteristic trees of India. Fields of gram, a leguminous plant, the pulse of which is given to horses, appear here in a most flourishing condition, but at this season require to be watered daily. Green pease for the table, cabbage, carrots, turnips, and other vegetables, are equal in flavour to those of any corner of the world. The stock of the cabbage plant, in all parts of India, is as