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1850. It is curious that the most important Roman Catholic church in England should have been raised on the very spot where the 20,000 “No Popery' rioters were summoned to meet Lord George Gordon in 1780, and, distinguished by the blue cockades in their hats, to attend him to Westminster. The scene, says Gibbon, was • as if forty thousand Puritans, such as they might have been in the days of Cromwell, had started out of their graves.'

Kennington Common, turned into a Park in 1852, became famous in 1848 from the great revolutionary meeting of Chartists under Feargus O'Connor, which was such a ludicrous failure. It was here that “Jemmy Dawson,' commemorated in Shenstone's ballad, was hanged, drawn, and quartered (July 30, 1746) as one of the Manchester rebels of 1745. Whitefield sometimes preached here to congrega. tions of 40,000 people, and here he delivered his farewell sermon before leaving for America.

Friday, August 3, 1739.-Having spent the day in completing my affairs and taking leave of dear friends, I preached in the evening to near 20,000 people at Kennington Common. I chose to discourse on St. Paul's parting speech to the elders of Ephesus; at which the people were exceedingly affected, and almost prevented my making any application. Many tears were shed when I talked of leaving them. I concluded with a suitable hymn, but could scarce get to the coach for the people thronging me, to take me by the hand and give me a parting blessing.'- George Whitefield's Diary.

Kennington Oval is the headquarters of the Surrey Cricket Club. From Westminster Bridge Stangate runs to the right with a beautiful stone terrace along the river. The frightful row of semi-detached brick buildings belongs to St. Thomas's Hospital (1868–72), removed hither from Southwark; their chief ornament is thoroughly Englisha row of hideous urns upon the parapet, which seem waiting for the ashes of the patients inside. The hospital originated in an almshouse founded by the Prior of Bermondsey in 1213. It was bought by the City of London at the Dissolution, and was refounded by Edward VÍ. In the first court in front of the present building is a statue of Edward VI, by Scheemakers, set up by Charles Joyce in 1737 : in the second court is a statue of Sir Robert Clayton, a benefactor of the Hospital-'the fanatick Lord Mayor' of Dryden's 'Religio Laici’-in his Lord Mayor's robes.

Passing under the wall of the Archbishop's garden, and beneath the Lollards' Tower, with its solitary niche, which once held a figure of St. Thomas of Canterbury, the martyred Archbishop, to which the watermen of the Thames dropped their caps as they rowed by, we reach Lambeth Palace 3 and Church. It was beneath this church tower that Queen Mary of Modena took refuge on the night of Dec. 9, 1688.

*The party stole down the back stairs (of Whitehall), and embarked in an open skiff.

It was a miserable voyage. The night was bleak; the rain fell; the wind

1 Misc. Works, p. 299, ed. 1837.
2 See Stanley's Memorials of Canterbury.

3 Called Lambeth Manor till the time of Laud, and then Lambeth House till the present century. The term 'Palace' was only applied to the residence of a bishop within his own episcopal city.

roared; the water was rough : at length the boat reached Lambeth ; and the fugitives landed near an inn, where a coach and horses were in waiting. Some time elapsed before the horses could be harnessed. Mary, afraid that her face might be known, would not enter the house. She remained with her child, cowering for shelter from the storm under the tower of Lambeth Church, and distracted by terror whenever the ostler approached her with his lantern. Two of her women attended her, one who gave suck to the Prince, and one whose office was to rock his cradle; but they could be of little use to their mistress; for both were foreigners who could hardly speak the English language, and who shuddered at the rigour of the English climate. The only consolatory circumstance was that the little boy was well, and uttered not a single cry. At length the coach was ready. The fugitives reached Gravesend safely, and embarked in the yacht which waited for them.'-- Macaulay.

The Church of St. Mary, Lambeth, was formerly one of the most interesting churches in London, being, next to Canterbury Cathedral, the great burial-place of the Archbishops of Canterbury ; but falling under the ruthless hand of 'restorers,’ it was rebuilt (except its tower of 1377) in 1851-52 by Hardwick, and its interest has been totally destroyed, its monuments huddled away anywhere, for the most part close under the roof, where their inscriptions of course cannot be read. High up in the south porch, behind a hideous wooden screen, are the curious bust and tablet of Robert Scott of Bawerie, 1631, who 'invented a leather ordnance. In the south aisle is the gravestone of Elias Ashmole, the antiquary, 1692, founder of the Ashmolean Museum, and author of the History of the Order of the Garter-—'the greatest virtuoso and curioso that ever was known or read of in England before his time.'1 In the chancel are the tombs of Hubert Peyntwin, auditor to Archbishops Moreton and Wareham, and Dr. Mompesson, Master of the Prerogative for the Archbishop of Canterbury. In the north transept are tablets to Archbishop Matthew Hutton, 1758, and Archbishop Frederick Cornwallis, 1783, and near these the brass of a Knight (Thomas Clere, 1545 ?). At the northern entrance of the chancel is the brass of a lady of the Howard family, to members of which there were before the 'restoration ' many interesting memorials here. No other monuments of importance are now to be distinguished. Amongst those commemorated here before the 'restoration’ were Archbishop Bancroft, 1610 (within the altar rails); Archbishop Tenison, 1715 (in the middle of the chancel); Archbishop Secker, 1768; Archbishop Moore, 1805; Alderman Goodbehere; Madame Storace, the singer, 1814; John Doland, 1761, the discoverer of the laws of the dispersion of light, and inventor of the achromatic telescope; Edward Moore, 1757, author of the successful tragedy of “The Gamester,' which is still a favourite; Thomas Cooke, the translator of Hesiod, 1756.

In digging the grave of Bishop Cornwallis, the body of Thomas Thirleby, first and last Bishop of Westminster, was found entire, dressed like the pictures of Archbishop Juxon. He died in an honourable captivity as the guest of Archbishop Parker in Lambeth Palace.

The Register records the burial here of Simon Forman, the

1 Wood, Athen. Oxon.

astrologer, 1611. Here also was buried Cuthbert Tunstall, the Roman Catholic Bishop of Durham, deprived by Elizabeth for refusing the oath of supremacy. He was given to the charge of Archbishop Parker in July 1559, and died as his honoured guest in Lambeth Palace on the 18th of November in the same year.

He

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GATEWAY, LAMBETH PALACE.

is described by Erasmus as excelling all his contemporaries in the knowledge of the learned languages, and by Sir Thomas More as 'surpassed by no man in erudition, virtue, and amiability.'

'He was a Papist only by profession; no way influenced by the spirit of Popery: but he was a good Catholic, and had true notions of the genius of Christianity. He considered a good life as the end, and faith as the means.'William Gilpin, Life of Bernard Gilpin (Tunstall's nephew).

Almost the only interesting feature retained at first in this cruelly abused building was the figure of a fifteenth-century pedlar with his pack and dog (on the third window of the north aisle), who left 'Pedlar's Acre' to the parish, on condition of his figure being always preserved on one of the church windows. The figure was existing here as early as 1608. In 1505 the value of the acre was worth 2s. 8d., but it is now computed to be worth £1000 per annum. In 1884-incredible as it may seem-this single interesting and important possession of the church was removed by the churchwardens

to make room for a window of trashy modern glass! It is now (1894) restored. It is in this church that Hannah Lightfoot, the fair Quakeress (whose son was General Mackelcan), is said to have been married to George III.

In the churchyard, at the east end of the church, is an altar-tomb, with the angles sculptured like trees, spreading over a strange confusion of obelisks, pyramids, crocodiles, shells, &c., and at one end a hydra. It is the monument of John Tradescant (1638) and his son, two of the earliest British naturalists. The elder was so enthusiastic a botanist that he joined an expedition against Algerine corsairs on purpose to get a new apricot from the African coast, which was thenceforth known as 'the Algier apricot.' His quaint medley

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of curiosities, known in his own time as 'Tradeskin's Ark,' was afterwards incorporated with the Ashmolean Museum.

'Lambeth, envy of each band and gown,' 1

has been for more than 700 years the residence of the Archbishops of Canterbury, though the site of the present palace was only obtained by Archbishop Baldwin in 1197, when he exchanged some lands in Kent for it with Glanville, Bishop of Rochester, to whose see it had been granted by the Countess Goda, sister of the Con

1 Pope.

fessor. The former proprietorship of the Bishops of Rochester is still commemorated in Rochester Row, Lambeth, on the site of a house which was retained, when the exchange was made, for their use when they came to attend Parliament. The Palace is full of beauty in itself and intensely interesting from its associations. It is approached by a noble Gateway of red brick with stone dressings, built by Cardinal Moreton (who used it as a residence) in 1490. It is here that the poor of Lambeth have received the Archbishop's dole' for hundreds of years. In ancient times a farthing loaf was given twice a week to 4000 people.

Adjoining the Porter's Lodge is a room evidently once used as a prison. On passing the gate we are in the outer court, at the end of which rises the picturesque Lollards' Tower, built by Archbishop Chicheley, 1434–45 : on the right is the Hall. A second gateway leads to the inner court, containing the modern (Tudor) palace, built by Archbishop Howley (1828–48), who spent the whole of his private fortune upon it rather than let Blore the architect be ruined by exceeding his contract to the amount of £30,000. On the left, between the buttresses of the Hall, are the descendants of some famous fig-trees which were planted by Cardinal Pole.

The Hall was built by, Archbishop Juxon in the reign of Charles II., on the site of the hall built by Archbishop Boniface (1244), which was pulled down by Scot and Hardyng the regicides, who purchased the palace when it was sold under the Commonwealth. Here the famous 'Consecration banquets' used to take place, which were discontinued only in 1845. "Juxon's arms and the date 1663 are over the door leading to the palace. The stained window opposite contains the arms of many of the archbishops, and a portrait of Archbishop Chicheley. Archbishop Bancroft, whose arms appear at the north end, turned the ball into a Library, and the collection of books which it contains has been enlarged by his successors, especially by Archbishop Secker, whose arms appear at the south end, and who bequeathed his library to Lambeth. Upon the death of Laud, the books were saved from dispersion through being claimed by the University of Cambridge, under the will of Bancroft, which provided that they should go to the University if alienated from the see: they were restored by Cambridge to Archbishop Sheldon. Archbishop Parker's list remains of the books in the palace at his time. The library contains a number of valuable MSS., the greatest treasure being a copy of Lord Rivers's translation of the 'Dictyes and Sayings of the Philosophers,' with an illumination of the Earl presenting Caxton on his knees to Edward IV. Beside the King stand Elizabeth Woodville and her eldest son, and this, the only known portrait of Edward V., is engraved by Vertue in his ‘Kings of England.'

A glass case contains the De Virginitate' of Aldhelm, Abbot of Malmesbury in the seventh century, being a copy probably made in the next century; “The Gospels of MacDurnan,' being a volume

1 The motto which surrounds it is misplaced, and belongs to Cranmer.

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