people; but there are, in and near it, establishments of some magnitude-Smith's Distillery, one of the largest in England; sugarrefineries, buildings of vast height; tobacco and cigar manufactories; clothing establishments, in which seamstresses are engaged on what are called 'slop-goods,' &c. The London Hospital, in Whitechapel Road, is a fine establishment for the gratuitous cure of the sick. Notwithstanding the density of the neighbourhood, room has been found here and there for several small cemeteries: among which may be named the East London, the Tower Hamlets, the Jews, and the Victoria Park cemeteries. In the Spitalfields neighbourhood, and onward to Bethnal Green, lies a colony of silk-weavers, who eke out a scanty existence with the aid of the hand-loom, and whose amusements are favourably marked by a taste for flowers and birds.

Still farther from the river, and up in the densely peopled district of Shoreditch, are the costly buildings, called Columbia Square and Market, erected at the sole expense of Miss Burdett Coutts, for the accommodation of working-men and their families. They are architecturally so ornate as to accord but ill with the humble streets around. Not far distant are other clusters of workmen's dwellings, in plainer style, belonging to the Peabody trustees. Beyond Bethnal Green, we find ourselves at Victoria Park, already mentioned-a real boon to the East end. And farther on still, where the population is less dense, are numerous factories, many of them giving forth odours by no means attractive gas-works, lucifer-match factories, breweries, candle and soap works, tar and chemical works, artificial manure works, &c.

NORTHERN LONDON.

Northward of all the regions which we have been describing, and stretching something like ten miles from east to west, is that vast belt which, for want of a better collective name, we will call Northern London. Visitors are likely to know many spots in the western half of it, but very few in the eastern.

Westward of the Edgeware Road, are the large neighbourhoods of private residences, comprising Tyburnia and Westbournia (as they are somewhat affectedly called) and Kensington Park. Out this way, too, is Kensal Green Cemetery, containing the tombs of many distinguished persons who have died within the last thirty years. Eastward of the Edgeware Road are masses of private streets, leading up to St John's Wood and Kilburn; scarcely diversified by any place of interest except Lord's Cricket Ground, the most famous place in England for cricket matches. Between Oxford

Street and the Regent's Park, amid a cluster of private streets, are two theatres-the Princess's and the Prince of Wales's. Another place of amusement in this cluster is the Oxford Music-hall, near the east end of Oxford Street. The Soho Bazaar and the Crystal

Palace Bazaar, also in Oxford Street, are famous places for trinketpurchases; two other bazaars in the same street, the Pantheon and the Corinthian, have been converted to other purposes. Four other buildings may usefully be named-namely, Madame Tussaud's Exhibition, a never-dying display of wax-work celebrities; the Polytechnic Institution, where science, entertainments, and Mr Pepper's Ghosts make up an attractive amusement; St George's Hall and Theatre, nearly opposite; and the Langham Hotel, in some respects the finest in the metropolis.

There is one building, between New Oxford Street and Euston Road, which should rather be called in Central than in Northern London, and which is of special note both to Londoners and to visitors from the country. This is the British Museum, in the immediate vicinity of Russell, Bedford, and Bloomsbury Squares. This splendid national establishment, a gradual growth from what was originally a private mansion, has been about a century rising to its present importance. It comprises several departments, under separate management. Entering from Great Russell Street, and crossing the vestibule, a passage leads to the new Reading-room, one of the finest halls, and unquestionably the finest reading-room, in Europe. It is a circular apartment, 140 feet in diameter, with a domed ceiling rising to a height of 106 feet from the floor, and excellently lighted from the top. Around the walls are 20,000 volumes of books; and numerous tables afford good accommodation for about 300 readers. The privilege of studying and reading in this room can be obtained only by special introduction; but ordinary visitors to other parts of the museum can easily obtain, at the secretary's office, permission to see the reading-room for a few minutes. The vast Library, containing nearly a million volumes, is not open to visitors, except a fine gallery containing what is called the King's Library. The Reading-room occupies what was once an open quadrangle; and the various rooms and galleries of the museum run round all four sides of it, some on the ground floor, some at a higher elevation. The Galleries of Sculpture and Antiquities contain priceless specimens of art from Egypt, Thebes, Greece, Rome, Asia Minor, Nineveh, &c. Bronzes, carvings, enamels, vases, &c. illustrate other branches of fine art. The Print-room has the finest collection of engravings in England (not open to the public except by special ticket). The department of Antiquities is full of illustrations of the manners and customs of various countries. The Natural History department comprises a rare collection of stuffed animals and birds, eggs, insects, minerals, fossil remains, &c. In short, the British Museum is an establishment of which we have reason to be proud; and it is to be hoped that the time will arrive when it will be open to the public six days in the week, instead of four, as at present.

Amongst the other buildings in this part of London are University College, with a fine portico, but unfinished wings; the Catholic and

Apostolic Church in Gordon Square, sometimes called the Irvingite Church; the Foundling Hospital, in the chapel of which there is very fine ecclesiastical music to be heard on Sundays; Gray's Inn, the gardens of which form a pleasant oasis in an otherwise unattractive neighbourhood; St Alban's Church, in Baldwin's Gardens, noted for its ritualistic services; and the Free Hospital, in Gray's

Inn Road.

Taking another block of Northern London, south of Pentonville Road and the City Road, we find Clerkenwell, the great centre of the watch and clock and jewellery trades; Sadlers Wells Theatre, the veritable house at which 'real water,' derived from the adjacent New River, used to take part in the dramatic spectacles; the New River Head, the southernmost reservoir of one of the great water supplies for London; St Luke's Hospital, a large but heavy structure; Bunhill Fields Burial Ground, characterised by Southey as the 6 Campo Santo of the Dissenters;' and the Artillery Ground, the headquarters of the Honourable Artillery Company. Northward of the Pentonville and City Roads is the New Cattle-market, between Caledonian and York Roads. It is a fine area of thirty acres, excellently provided with pens, enclosures, sheds, stalls, abattoirs, salesmen's offices, railway and telegraph offices, and banking-houses; it belongs to the corporation of the City of London, and cost £300,000. Near the market is the Caledonian Asylum, an excellent school and home for poor Scotch children. Near this, again, is the Model Prison, built in 1842, for the reception of convicts, of whom it will accommodate about 1000; they are kept in separate cells, and are as much as possible occupied in industrial pursuits. In the Camden Road is the City Prison, built in 1855, for the reception of the class of prisoners who used to be confined in three or four small jails belonging to the City; it is the handsomest structure in the metropolis devoted to such purposes. At Islington is the Agricultural Hall, so called because it was built chiefly to accommodate the Cattle and Agricultural Show held every December by the Smithfield Club; but its noble dimensions render it available for exhibitions of various kinds.

Eastward of Islington, and forming the north-east section of the entire metropolis, is a region difficult to explore, and unattractive when explored. About the neighbourhood of Hoxton and Shoreditch are four large theatres, the Grecian, Britannia, Standard, and City of London, to which the prices of admission are low enough to accommodate a somewhat humble class of visitors.

THE SURREY SIDE.

An average Londoner attaches as definite a meaning to the 'Surrey side' or 'Over the water' as he does to the 'East end.' Beginning up Vauxhall way, we find the Southern Embankment,

already mentioned as a great improvement to a portion of the river that was till lately very unsightly. At Kennington is the Oval, the headquarters of the Surrey Cricket Club, where some of the best matches are played every year. Near this is Kennington Park, a pleasant appropriation of a rough ragged field. At Lambeth, the most notable structure is Lambeth Palace, the residence of the Archbishops of Canterbury for the last six hundred years. This celebrated structure displays many different kinds of architecture, according to the periods at which the several parts were built. In the Chapel, at least six centuries old, the archbishops are always consecrated. The Lollards' Tower, at the west end of the chapel, is said to be the oldest specimen of brickwork in England since Roman times that the Lollards or Wicliffites were ever imprisoned there, according to popular tradition, is doubted by historians; although there certainly is a strong-room at the top inscribed with the names of many unfortunates who were imprisoned there. The red-brick gate-house was built in the time of Henry VII. The Hall, 93 feet long by 38 wide, is decorated with many pictures and armorial bearings; it also contains the 25,000 volumes comprising the library, for which no separate room has been provided. The habitable and inhabited parts of the palace are of comparatively recent construction, and are bounded by a large garden. The Church, which is scarcely detached from the palace, is the mother-church of Lambeth parish, and contains the tombs of many of the archbishops.

Near Westminster Bridge is one of the three theatres which have long existed over the water'-namely, Astley's, the Victoria, and the Surrey. Near here also is Canterbury Hall, the first and most celebrated of those types of the modern period, music-halls. Forming a cluster near the Lambeth Road are four buildings of some celebrity-Bethlehem Hospital, the largest lunatic asylum in the metropolis; the Blind Asylum, also the largest of its kind; the Female Orphan Asylum; and St George's Cathedral, the chief Roman Catholic place of worship in England, capable of holding 3000 persons. A little south-east of this, and near the spot where six roads radiate from the busy hostelry known as the Elephant and Castle, is Mr Spurgeon's Tabernacle, the largest chapel in England. In no building has greater attention been paid to those two requisites in a place of worship, that all present should be able to hear the preacher, and nearly all see him; the means of ingress and egress, and the lighting and ventilation, have also received due attention. The chapel can accommodate as many as 5000 persons sitting, and 1500 standing.

In the Blackfriars Road is Surrey Chapel, where the Rev. Rowland Hill did, and the Rev. Newman Hall does, attract large congregations. Here, too, are the Magdalen Hospital and_Chapel, established for the reformation of fallen women. In the Borough

Road is the British and Foreign School, a large establishment for the training of teachers for schools. Near here are the Surrey County Jail and a Military Prison—the latter once a jail for civil offenders. Nearer the river, the new Southwark Street forms a fine line of commercial and manufacturing establishments, affording a very useful east-and-west artery in a part of the metropolis which was greatly in need of it. Close to the river is Bankside, memorable as the locality of two theatres in Shakspeare's time. Near Southwark Bridge is one of the most vast and remarkable establishments in London, Barclay and Perkins Brewery. Any visitor who can obtain permission to view this establishment will see what none but the great breweries can display. The tanks for water; the large storehouses for malt and hops; the boilers and coppers for heating the liquids; the enormous vessels for cooling, fermenting, and storing the beer and ale; the tens of thousands of tuns, hogsheads, butts, barrels, and other casks; the regiments of drays and the magnificent horses-all tend to render this one of the sights of London.

St Saviour's Church, near the Surrey end of London Bridge, is not only the finest church' over the water,' but one of the finest in the metropolis. There was once a Priory of St Mary Overy, to which this church belonged, but for three centuries it has been a parish church. The oldest parts of the present structure, in early English Gothic, are the Choir and the Lady Chapel; the altarscreen in the Choir is very beautiful. Many persons of celebrity were buried in St Saviour's Church or Churchyard in past ages, and some of their monuments are highly interesting: among the number may be named Bishop Gardiner, Bishop Andrews, Beaumont and Fletcher the dramatists, Philip Massinger, Edmund Shakspeare (brother to the Shakspeare), and the poet Gower. Close by here, in Borough High Street, are still to be seen some remains of the old inns for which Southwark was celebrated in bygone times, especi ally the Tabard (now called the Talbot), so closely associated with Chaucer's Canterbury Pilgrimage.

A stranger would find a world, almost unique in its kind, in the river-side region south of the Thames and east of London Bridge. It is one continued series of wharfs, warehouses, and granaries, stored with produce the value of which is almost fabulous, and approached by lanes so narrow and crooked as to render it a marvel how laden waggons can thread their way through them.

Bermondsey, somewhat southward of the river, is remarkable for two branches of industry which are centred there in great force. It would be too much to say that all the hats of London are made, and all the leather tanned, in Southwark and Bermondsey; but it is quite within the mark to say that more of these kinds of work is conducted here than in all the rest of the metropolis combined. Some of the establishments are of great magnitude, and the processes