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may be said against their application, much may be urged in its favor. Of Moriah there seems to be the least, of Sion the most, doubt. Some suppose the latter to have been on the other side of the valley of Hinnom, which bounds the hill now called Sion on the south. If the modern appellation be correct, part of the hill of Sion is at present included within the walls, and part is without. On the included portion are the Jews' quarter and the palace of David; on mount Acra, the Christians' quarter and the church of the Holy Sepulchre: on Moriah, where Abraham testified his faith and Solomon erected his temple, the mosque of Omar rears its stately form; not far from which, and close to Bezetha, is the site of the famous tower of Antonia.

The streets of Jerusalem are narrow, like those of all Syrian towns. The houses are shabby, and the shops but poorly supplied. The nature of the principal articles exposed for sale indicates that the city is supported chiefly by pilgrims, who joyfully spend here the little all they have accumulated in a life of toil. The manufactures consist of rosaries, made either of beads or olive stones from Gethsemane, of bitumen from the Dead Sea, of date stones, or of

* Gen. xxii. 2.

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pearls; besides these are crucifixes, amulets, and mother-of-pearl shells, prettily, but not skilfully, carved and painted at Bethlehem. Many of these represent the Virgin and child; and possibly resemble the "shrines for Diana" made at Ephesus by Demetrius the silversmith and his brethren.*

The number of Jews in the city is variously stated, and in no part of Syria can any very accurate estimate of population be formed. Some suppose the Hebrews to amount to five or six thousand, of whom a large majority are females. Among them are individuals of all nations; for the attractions Jerusalem offers to a Jew operate equally on the mind of Israelites born in England and Kamschatka, Spain and Persia, Germany and Egypt. To a certain extent, European manners are introduced among them; their women are not all retained in oriental seclusion; and the comforts of civilized life have been imported by the affluent, though they are careful not to seem to possess money, lest they should be deprived of it: hence, the exterior of the house or person of a Hebrew in Jerusalem will never exhibit any appearance but that of poverty. One, whom we saw embrace a European gentleman with all the familiarity of

* Acts xix. 24.

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perfect equality, and who held a note of hand for 5,000. lent to a Frank lady, was dressed in no way better than a humble tenant of a shop in Monmouth Street. The population, exclusive of Jews, may amount to ten or twelve thousand; of whom seven or nine thousand may be Moslims. If the Greeks be reckoned at two thousand, the Roman Catholics at one thousand, and the Armenians, Copts, Abyssinians and other sects at five hundred, the estimate may approximate to the truth. But this statement is confined to residents: the influx of Christian and Hebrew pilgrims, with their servants, muleteers, and others, gives to the population, at different seasons of the year, accessions varying from two to eight thousand.

Besides Mr. Whiting, an American missionary, his lady, and Mr. Nicolayson, (whose duties prevented him from granting me any further the benefit of his companionship in my travels,) the only Protestant residing in the city is an Englishman lately arrived, who lives in daily expectation of the Messiah's second advent.

The attempt to introduce missionary labors among the Christians of Jerusalem is so recent that a correct opinion cannot be formed as to its probable issue. Mr. Nicolayson has been for ten years employed among the Jews;

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but his exertions have not been crowned with any very brilliant success, though the result has tended to strengthen his assurance of an ultimate realization of his hopes. It has lately been proposed to build a church on mount Sion for the celebration of Protestant worship; if this be effected, both Jews and Moslims will see that Christianity is not the idolatry it appears to them, as exhibited in the services of Greeks and Romanists.

CHAPTER XXX.

JERUSALEM AND ITS ENVIRONS.

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Objects or interest in and around Jerusalem. Boundaries of city. — Pools of Gihon.-Sepulchres. — Tophet, or valley of Hinnom.-Sepulchre of David. - Protestant burialground. Armenian chapel.

Relics.

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Aceldama.

Valley of Jehoshaphat. Kedron. - Various legends. — "Hill of offence."— Fountain and pool of Siloa.- Illustration of Scripture. -Tombs of Zacharias, James, Absalom, and Jehoshaphat. Jewish cemetery. gate.-Gethsemane.

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Golden

Traditions. Olivet.-Olive-trees. - Splendid excavation. - Stone of martyrdom. - Gate of Stephen. Pool of Bethesda. - Via Dolorosa. - Traditionary localities.- Mosque of Omar.-Stones of Solomon's temple. House of Pontius Pilate.— Site of Holy Sepulchre and Calvary discussed. — Desecration. — Moslims.Church of Holy Sepulchre.-Slab of anointing. -Mount Calvary.-Holes for crosses.-Fissure in rock.— Head of Adam.-Name Calvary.-Various "holy places.” -The Holy Sepulchre. - Lamps. - Service. Quarrels of Greeks and Latins. Conduct of Turks. - Degradation of Christianity. Roman Catholic service on Good Friday. Five sermons. Mock crucifixion and resurrection.

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