290 ANTIQUITY OF DAMASCUS. faith, he signed himself "Lately a rabbi, but now a disciple of the Lord Jesus." Damascus is probably the oldest city in the world; in other words, there is no modern city on whose site it can be proved that one so ancient formerly stood; much less one which has preserved its early name. The first mention of it in Genesis proves that it was known to Abraham nearly four thousand years ago and within five centuries of the deluge.* Its population is calculated at a hundred and seventy thousand, and that of twelve villages in its immediate vicinity at sixty thousand. Of these, about six thousand are Greek Catholics, and as many "schismatic" Greeks; five hundred are Catholic Armenians and Syrians; and eight hundred Maronites. About fifty are Chaldeans, and a very few Jacobite Syrians and Jews. From the street we saw the handsome mosque called Jamee al Amooee; and, looking into it through two of its doors on different sides, we perceived some fine columns; but the jealousy of the Moslims refuses admission to Christians, and we were compelled to be satisfied with a partial view of this edifice which was formerly a church dedicated to St. John. * Genesis xiv. 15, and xv. 2. HOUSE OF ANANIAS. 291 A similar cause prevented our obtaining more than a transient glance at the tomb of Saladin, surnamed Malik ool dahir, or Ruler of the world. Having procured the key and a guide from the Latin convent, we visited the "House of Ananias." Like almost every other place connected with Scripture history shown to the devout or superstitious, it is underground and evidently of an early date. The taste of the present day does not lead to the occupancy of such gloomy tenements, and they are admirably adapted to the purposes to which the priests apply them. Still, all is not to be discredited because much is incredible. A few pearls of sacred antiquity may be detected amidst the rubbish, but they must be sought for and carefully selected: no such, however, are likely to be found in the reputed house of Ananias. A descent of fourteen steps leads to two nearly square apartments; in one of which is an altarpiece representing the saint in the act of laying his hand on Saul, who is decked out in Roman armor becoming a persecutor of the church; in the other the guide shows a blocked-up kabah, or praying-place, once frequented by Mussulmans, who, (the pilgrim is assured,) have been compelled to desert the spot, because every Moslim entering to pray there was afflicted 292 STREET CALLED STRAIGHT. with madness by the righteous vengeance of Saint Ananias! It was with more of interest and less of incredulity that we passed through a long narrow street, lined with miserable huts, supposed to be the "Street called Straight," whose modern name is "Durrub ool Sultanee," or the Sultan's street; for, though none of the houses exist which stood there in the time of St. Paul, it is not too much to believe that the outline of the street may be nearly the same, and that in it is the site of the residence of his host Judas.* Passing out of a gate facing the south, our attention was directed to a blocked-up square in an old part of the wall of the city, just over a gate similarly built up: here, we were told, was the window from which the persecuted persecutor was "let down by the wall in a basket." The gate is closed, because tradition says that as soon as a Christian shall enter it, Damascus will fall into the hands of the infidel. Scarcely a quarter of an hour's walk hence, on the high road to Jerusalem, are remains of an ancient pavé, whose reputed sanctity has caused it to be surrounded with Armenian tombs. Whether this be, or be not, as is affirmed, the † Acts ix. 25. * Acts ix. SITE OF SAUL'S VISION. 293 exact spot where a "light from heaven shone round about" the zealous Pharisee, it is impossible to determine; but the Christian may feel sure that he is at no great distance from the place thus honored by the visible manifestation of the Saviour, and there is something hallowed in the associations connected with the mere vicinity to such a spot. Here the first rays burst forth which subsequently "lightened the Gentiles." In this soil was planted the grain of mustard-seed which became a tree covering the world with its branches. Damascus is the spiritual mother of Christendom. Here the "breather out of threatenings and slaughter" against Christians was converted into an undaunted witness to the truth of Christianity. Here he obtained that pardon of sin, which captivated his soul to a heavenly service, and not only changed the bitter foe into the devoted friend of his Lord, but made him one of the highest examples of the mercy he was commissioned to proclaim to the Gentile world. Yet, even here, no such reflections can be long indulged without a painful check from the superstitions which abound. A false faith and a dead faith divide the land. Mahomet and Mary are raised to an impious rivalry of Jehovah, while forms and ceremonies are substi tuted for a spiritual worship. As we were pausing on the sacred spot, a multitude of Greek pilgrims, collected close to it, were arranging their caravan preparatory to a departure for Jerusalem, where the foulest sins are washed away in "holy water," and forgiveness is offered for sale in exchange for gold and silver. The exact connection between mental depravity and physical suffering in this world is a problem not likely to be solved till our visual orb be purged from the film that now impedes its clear perception of God's dealings with man: but it is a remarkable fact that the two most dreadful calamities the human frame has known, leprosy and possession by the devil, have been, with a very few exceptions, confined to those countries which are Anti-Christian. The latter, as manifested in our Saviour's day, seems to be suspended or destroyed the former still exists; but it is for the most part limited to kingdoms where Mohammedanism or Paganism reigns. Many painful cases attract notice in Syria; at least, in Damascus, Nabloos, and Jerusalem, the three stations assigned by law to lepers, and to one or other of which every patient is compelled to resort. As in olden times, they are |