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of spirits; 1834, 115713 gallons of wine; 1835, | 78551 do.; 1836, 121485 do. 1833, 4096 pipes, 579 hhds., 1629 qr. casks, 20 octaves, 3658 gallons of wine. 1834, 861,471 gallons of wine; 1835, 645,884 do. do. 1836, 626,265 do. do.

Exports of Gibraltar.-1833, 8000 cwt. of Tobacco; 1834, 1138 hhds., 3 cwt. of Tobacco; 1835, 2303 do. 9 do.; 1836, 3468 do. 6 do.; 1833, 138 pipes, 57 hhds., 6 qr. casks, 174 barrels, 2502 gallons of spirits; 1834, 38740 gallons of spirits; 1835, 19800 do.; 1836, 48818 do.; 1833, and 481 pipes, 186 hhds., 5165 qr. casks, 1787 barrels, 1500 gallons of wine. 1834, 387864 gallons of wine; 1835, 259555 do. 1836, 144562 do.

Manufactures, &c. [BB. 1836].-The garrison is indebted to Messrs. Duguid and Co., for the erection of a steam mill, for grinding wheat, sufficient for the consumption of the troops and inhabitants.

"The engine is of 14 horse power, on the latest and most approved principles, it is calculated to work 6 pair of stones of 4 feet diameter, and can with ease deliver ground, cleaned and dressed from 35 to 40 quarters of wheat in 24 hours; more might be produced in cases of emergency, but the quantity mentioned exceeds what the persons concerned in the mill expect to sell for the supply of the place, to which their attention is almost entirely confined.

The soft wheat hitherto ground by the mill, has been the produce of the Baltic ports, Weismar and Danzig, and this class is preferred by the military and British inhabitants. The hard wheat, ground, has been the produce of Tagauroe, Volo, Sicily and Morocco, and this class is much preferred by the Italians, Spaniards, Hebrews, and most of the foreign inhabitants. The labour and consequent expense is con

XIII. Spanish currency is still much used. Gold Coins, 1836.-A Doubloon is sixteen dollars = 37. 98. 4d.; half do. = 11. 14s. 8d.; quarter do. = 178. 4d.; eighth do. = 8s. 8d.; sixteenth do. = 4s. 4d. ;—Silver Coins. Dollar piece 4s. 4d., half do. 28. 2d.; quarter do. 1s. 1d.; peseta 93d.; eighth of a dollar 64d.; half peseta 5d.: sixteenth of a dollar 344.; quarter peseta 24d. Also a small quan-siderably more in grinding the hard wheat than the tity of British silver coin.-Copper Coin. Five quarterpiece d.; one do. fd; chovy=d. Also a quantity of British copper coin. The dollar fixed at 4s. 4d. in virtue of the order of His Majesty's council, dated 23rd, March 1825.

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No paper currency. Quantity of coin unknown. Course of exchange.- 1836 October; London at 90 days date 5144. to 513d. Cadiz-8 days sight to 5-8 per cent. dis.; Malaga do. 3-8 to 4 p. c. prem. Madrid do. 1 to 2 p. c. dis.; Seville do. 7-8 to 1 p. c. dis.; Marseilles 90 days date 5 r. 44 c. to 5 r. 45 | c.; Paris do. 5 r. 44 c. to 5 r. 45 c.; Genoa do. 5 r. 43c. to 5 r. 44 c. Premium on Spanish pillared dollars 1 to 2 per cent.

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Weights and measures.- - Arrobe, twenty-six lbs. English 3 gallons. Five fanegas (strake measure of wheat) or eight Winchester bushels, or two heaped fanegas of Indian corn = 4 bushels. Pipe, 117 gallons 126 gallons English wine measure. The Spanish quintal of 100 lb. = 101 lbs. English.

XIV. Gibraltar is not the barren rock that has been supposed; Colonel James mentions the names of 310 different trees and plants growing on the promontory. Several kinds of fruits are cultivated, and the vine and fig flourish in exuberance; after rains vegetation is richly luxuriant. The olive, almond, orange, lemon, and indeed every tree planted in a proper spot, thrive on Gibraltar; in the naval garden in the south are some noble date trees; the prickly pear runs wild, the aloe abounds, and the palmetto was formerly plentiful. Geraniums of almost every species grow in the utmost profusion, and a great variety of wild and uncultivated plants and herbs are found in every part of the mountain. Among the native fruits brought to market are seven or eight kinds of grapes, figs, oranges, lemons, pomegranates, almonds, apples, peaches, plums, apricots, (vulgo "Kill Johns") cherries, strawberries, &c., and potatoes, cabbages, onions, cucumbers, artichokes, tomatas, peas, kidney beans, spinage, lettuces, radishes, &c. &c., are produced in abundance. During the latter part of the last siege, the quantity of vegetables grown was sufficient for the supply of the garrison, and the quantity of garden ground is now augmented. Different kinds of fishes are brought to market, in former times the bay was so celebrated for its fishing of tunny and salmonettas that coins were struck in which these fish are represented. [See Colonial Library for a specific description of all the fish usually taken.]

soft. The prices at which the mill flour has been sold, since the commencement of the establishment have varied from 5 to 64 dol. per barrel of 196 lbs. net weight, wholesale and retail; the mill not selling a smaller quantity than 14 lbs. United States flour could not now be imported of a quality equal to that made at the mill to sell under 10 dol. to 12 per barrel, the last year however has been one of great scarcity in that country, but I may say for many years past, flour could not be imported to sell under 74 to 8 dol. in Gibraltar. The quality of the mill flour depends of course upon the quality of the wheat, as it is now perfectly demonstrated, that the machinery works admirably, and experience is daily benefitting this quite original undertaking in Gibraltar, from the cleaning and separating the grain to the final dressing of the flour; the pastry cooks and bakers, consider, and pronounce its quality to be quite unexceptionable, and as the supply is constant of fresh ground, and at unexampled moderate prices, the proprietors flatter themselves, the enterprize will prove a great public benefit, without their being individual sufferers. It is not undeserving of remark that the benefit is fully verified to the garrison by the ample supply of bran, for the cattle, which formerly was entirely imported from Spain, and is now as part of the produce of the mill, abundant, at less than half its former price. Market Prices of Provisions in January 1835, in Gibraltar, Malta and Corfu.

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[B. B.]-Horned cattle, 81. 13s. 4d. each; horses | mutton, 44d. per lb. ; pork, 44d. per lb.; rice, 178. 4d. 15. 38. 4d.; (there are are no cattle, horse, sheep or per cwt.; coffee, 21. 14s. 2d. per cwt.; tea, 28. 74d. swine reared within the garrison; the cattle con- per lb.; sugar, 21. 28. 74d. per cwt.; salt, 4d. per sumed here are exported from Barbary and Spain; cwt.; wine-Port, 341. 13s. 4d. per pipe; Madeira, the horses, sheep, goats and swine are from Spain, 347. 13s. 4d. per pipe; Sherry, 347. 138. 4d. per pipe; and all the other articles enumerated, are from Eng- Common, 61. 1s. 4d. per pipe; brandy, 171. 6s. 8d. land and foreign countries;) sheep, 198. 6d.; goats, per pipe; beer, 61. 1s. 4d. per hghd.; tobacco, 1. 18. 8d.; swine, 17. 198.; milk, 64d. per quart; 21. 3s. 4d. per cwt. salt butter, 1s. 1d. per lb.; cheese, 31. 13s. 8d. per cwt.; wheaten bread, 2d. per lb.; beef, 54d. per lb.;

Wages for labour.-Domestic, 26s. per month; Prædial, none; Trades, 51. 8s. 4d. per month.

CHAPTER II.-MALTA AND GOZO.

I. Malta, and its adjacent island of Gozo, are situate between Sicily and the African coast, in the mouth of the great bay formed by Cape Bon and Cape Razat, in the parallel of (i. e. Valetta, the capital) 35.54. north, and the meridian of 14.34. east, the most southerly island in Europe.

II. This island was known eighteen hundred years ago under the name of Melite or Melita, Pliny and Strabo both mentioning it under this denomination, and there is no doubt that Melita, and not an islet on the Illyrian shore of the Adriatic, was the site of St. Paul's shipwreck. It appears to have been at one period a Carthaginian colony, when this singular people held such powerful sway in the Mediterranean; but whether it was the island mentioned under the appellation of Hyperia (by Homer in the Odyssey) and Ogygia, is doubtful.

The Phoenicians landed, it is said, on Malta about 1519 years before Christ, and the navigation of the Mediterranean belonging at this period to that commercial people, they formed a colony there which soon rose in trade and wealth. Whether Malta was inhabited previous to the landing of the Phoenicians is doubtful; according to the fabulous history, it was originally tenanted by the Phæacians (qu. Phoenicians), a race of giants. After being in possession of the island for upwards of seven centuries, the Greeks, 736 years B. c. drove out the Phoenicians settled on the island, and called it Melitas.

Both the Phoenicians and the Greeks, while in the possession of Malta, erected extensive buildings, and struck different coins, the relics of some of which are still extant.

About 528 years B. C. the Carthaginians disputed the dominion of Malta or Melita with the Greeks, and it was for some time divided between these two powerful nations; the latter were, however, finally compelled to abandon the island to the Carthaginians, under whose sway it grew into such magnitude and wealth as to excite the cupidity and enterprize of the Romans in the first Punic war, where it was plundered by Attilius Regulus, and seized upon by Cornelius. The Romans, however, were soon expelled from the island, and only recovered it after the naval victory gained by C. Lutatius Catulus, 242 years B. C., when a peace was granted to the Carthaginians on the hard condition of their giving up to the Romans all the islands in their possession between Africa and Italy. The Romans were justly proud of their acquisition of Melita; they took every precaution to gain

the attachment of the resident Greek and mixed population, permitted them the continuation of their ancient customs, and made it a municipium, allowing the inhabitants to be governed by their own laws, under a pro-prætor dependent on the prætorship of Sicily.

The commerce and manufactures of the island were sedulously encouraged; the cotton and linen cloths of Melita were so famed for their fineness and the skili with which they were prepared, as to be regarded at Rome as an article of luxury. Great attention was paid to improving and beautifying the settlement, and the merchants and the sailors were then wont to repair to the temples to offer incense to the protecting gods of the island and its trade. On the division of the Roman empire, the island of Malta fell to Constantine, but the feuds of religious dissensions occupying all parties, the Romans in their colonies, as well as at home, felt the desolating inroads of barbarism. The Vandals seized upon Sicily in 454 A. D., and next took possession of Malta, whence they were driven ten years after by the Goths. Under the Goths and Vandals the commerce of Malta perished; it was, however, partially revived under the reign of Justinian, who sent Belisarius to wrest Africa from the Vandals. Belisarius landed in Malta A. D. 553, and reunited it to the remnant of the empire, but not being allowed the immunities previously granted by its former masters, the island never entirely recovered its ancient splendour.

Malta became now a prey to feuds and dissensions, and for three centuries from the reign of Justinian we are ignorant of the events which mark its history. About the year 870 A. D. the inhabitants called in the Arabs, but they were driven out the same year by the bravery of the Greeks, who from thence remained undisturbed masters for 34 years; but the Arabs again descended in great force, exterminated the Greeks, sold their wives and children for slaves, and established a government, dependent upon the Emir of Sicily. The name of Melitas was then by the Arabs corrupted into that of Malta. To supply the deficiency of taxes which the Arabs would not levy on the Maltese, the former fitted out piratical cruisers, fortified the city of Notabile, built a fortress on the site of the present castle of St. Angelo, and enriched Malta with the plunder acquired on the sea. The Arabs, in their turn, were also driven out of Malta by the Normans, A. D. 1090, under Count Roger, who established the popular council, which

was composed of clergy, nobles, and people freely elected. The island was afterwards given up to the. Germans, on account of the marriage between Constance, heiress of Sicily, and Henry VI., son of the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. Malta was erected into a county and marquisate, but its trade was now totally ruined, and for a considerable period it remained solely a fortified garrison.

Malta remained for 72 years subject to the emperors of Germany; and Charles of Anjou, brother of Louis IX., King of France, on becoming King of Sicily, made himself master of the island. On the change of sovereigns in Sicily, after the well known affair of the Sicilian vespers, Malta continued faithful to the French, but was soon conquered by the King of Arragon, who, as well as (his successors in the supremacy in 1414) the Kings of Castile, ceded it in title of fief to some favourite of the monarch or servant of the crown.

The Maltese at this time beheld themselves twice mortgaged for sums lent to their princes; they, therefore, always jealous of their liberty, made a noble effort to retrieve themselves from this thraldom, by twice paying 30,000 florins of gold (a large sum in these days), for which the island was pawned. King Alphonzo, therefore, A. D. 1428, declared and promised that in future Malta and Gozo should never be separated from the kingdom of Sicily. Alphonzo permitted, also, the inhabitants, in case of a breach of promise, to oppose him by force, without such conduct being deemed rebellious.

Charles V., with a view towards commanding the Mediterranean, and to secure the coast of Sicily, became master of Malta; and aware of its great advantages, and that he might be saved the expense of its garrison, while at the same time he might prevent his European enemies from making a descent on the possession, located the order of St. John of Jerusalem at Malta, who being driven from their principal place of residence, Rhodes, were glad to accept the aid of a powerful prince, who in 1530 A. D., granted Malta, Gozo and the city of Tripoli, in perpetual sovereignty to the knights.

For a history of the Knights of St. John and of Malta, during their occupation of the island from 1530 to 1798, when it was forcibly occupied by the French under Napoleon, see my "History of the Colonies" and "Colonial Library." It will suffice to mention here, that the Maltese rose en masse on the 2d Sept. 1798, against the French troops (6,000 men) then in Valetta. A small detachment of British troops aided the Maltese blockade of the garrison in the beginning of 1800, and on the 4th September 1800, the French capitulated to the combined Maltese and British troops.

Malta has ever since formed a portion of the British empire. Mr. Cameron was first appointed Civil Commissioner, and was succeeded by Sir Alexander Ball, who died in 1809; General Sir Hildebrand Oakes, was Chief until 1813, when Sir Thomas Maitland arrived; Sir Thomas died in 1824, and was succeeded by the Marquess of Hastings, his lordship died in 1826; and was succeeded by General Sir Frederick Ponsonby, who died in 1836; the present Governor is Major-General Bouverie.

III. The island was formerly placed by all geographers in Africa, but was declared to be in Europe, as regards the service of our soldiery, by a British Act of Parliament. It is the most southerly island in Europe, the parallel (Valetta Observatory) being in 35o. 53'. north, and the meridian 14° 30′ 35′′ east of 4 D

Greenwich. The shape is an irregular oval, which has been compared by some to a fish-its southern aspect resembling the back, the bay of Marsa Sirocco the mouth, the various indentations on the north aspect the ventral fins, and the deep indentation of the bay of Melleha, with a corresponding indentation at the back of the island, the tail; the island, in fact, stretches east and west, and is much indented with bays and inlets of the sea on the side which corresponds with the coast of Sicily, while that which looks towards the African coast is nearly a continual curve.

The extreme length of the island is stated by Dr. Hennen at 18 to 20 miles, and its greatest breadth from north to south 10 to 12 miles, and circumference 60 to 70; but a chart of the islands under the British crown, furnished me from the Colonial Office, makes the extreme length sixteen and three-quarter miles, extreme breadth nine, with an area of 95 square miles (another estimate will be found under the head of agriculture). The official document makes Gozo (the island adjacent to Malta, and under the same government) nine and three quarter miles extreme length, five and one-third breadth, with an area of 27 square miles. The following, according to Captain Smyth, are the bearings and distances between several points on the south coast of Sicily and Malta: from Cape Passaro to Valetta, south 33.41. west, 56 miles; Alicata to ditto, 21.55. east, 75 miles: Terra Nova to ditto, 10.40., 70 miles; Girgenti to ditto, 30.03., 90 miles; Sciacca to ditto, 35.51., 118 miles; Cape Granitola to ditto, 42.32., miles; Maretimo to ditto, 42.45., 173 miles. Malta is distant from Cape Passaro, the nearest point of Sicily, north, 56 miles, and Cape Bon, the nearest point of the African continent, is almost 200 miles distant in a south-west direction. It is bounded on the east by the island of Candia, on the west by the islets of Pantelleria, Linosa, and Lampedusa, on the north by Sicily, and on the south by Tripoli. The sea dividing Malta from Sicily is only 80 fathoms deep in the middle or deepest part, very shallow in other places, and the bottom sandy: it is called the Canal of Malta, and is generally rough, with strong currents setting through it on the north-west side towards the east-south-east, and on the east-southeast side towards the east. Gozo Isle, originally known under the name of "Gaulos" by the Greeks, "Gaulum," by the Romans, and by corruption in the Arabic language "Gaudese," which in process of time was Italianized into Gozo (pronounced Godso), is situate on the westward of Malta, distant from thence in its nearest point about three miles, though some parts of the strait is five miles broad. In the channel lies the small islet of Comino, formerly called "Hephostia," of an oblong shape, and about five miles in circumference, with a still smaller islet or rock called Cominetto, off its north-west extremity. Malta, comparatively speaking, is low, the highest land being estimated at no more than 1,200 feet above the level of the sea, and cannot be discerned until the mariner approaches within 20 to 30 miles of the shore. The hill and dale surface is beautifully diversified, and the natural industry of the Maltese has converted an apparently barren rock into a very picturesque country. As a general feature, it may be observed, that the island is furrowed with vallies running from south-west to north east, parallel to each other, and becoming longer and deeper as they extend from the eastern and western extremity. One, termed Melleha, nearly divides Malta into two parts; the most fertile, however, is the vale, which forms at its lowest extremity the Port of Valetta.

A small range of hills and craggy rocks, called the Ben Jemma Hills, bearing a north-west direction from Valetta, stretch across the entire breadth of the island, and from these different spurs branch off, giving variety to the landscape. The southern shore consists of high or shelving rocks, without creeks or ports, or where a landing could be effected. To the east there is the port of Marsa (Marsa, in Arabic, signifies port or harbour) Scala, and towards the south-west that of Marsa Sirocco, capable of containing a great number of vessels. On the west there are two bays, called Antifaga and Magiarro.

The port of St. Paul is on the coast opposite Sicily, and is so called from a tradition that the vessel in which St. Paul was sent prisoner to Rome was driven in thither by a storm. St. George's Port, towards the north, is not far distant from that of St. Paul; St. Julian's Bay is on the same shore. [For the topography of the island, and a description of its forts, &c., see "Colonial Library, Vol. VII.]

appendages is the fungus rock of Gozo, or “ Hagira tal general," celebrated for its production of Corallina Officinalis (Linnæus), or fungus melitensis, at one time esteemed as a sovereign panacea for all diseases.

IV. Malta is composed of limestone of different species and of unequal density, though generally speaking remarkably soft, and crumbling down even under the action of the weather with great facility. Calcareous freestone is more or less abundant, limestone generally lying on the freestone, and the latter incumbent ona bed of marl.

The hard stone used in architecture is a species of coarse marble of crystalline structure, of specific gravity 2.5,-not absorbent of moisture, and not liable to decompose or disintegrate on exposure to the atmosphere. It consists almost entirely of carbonate of lime. It is well adapted to all works requiring strength, and particularly well fitted for pavements and floors. It is found in many parts of the island, generally near the surface. (See "Colonial Library.”) indeed,

V. The climate of Malta is decidedly warm, almost tropical. The maximum temperature for the year may be taken at 90. Fahrenheit, the minimum at 46., and the mean at 63. The barometer may be similarly quoted at 38. 8., 30. 2., and 30.5. The hydrometer 87., 30., and 584. The heat of the summer is doubtless increased by radiation of the solar rays from the rocks surrounding Valetta; but in the country around, and in Gozo in particular, the atmosphere is from 2. to 4. cooler.

The most prevalent winds are the south-east (the Sirocco) and the north-west; the former character

Gozo (or Gaudisch, as the natives call it), as before observed, is separated from Malta by an arm of the sea, four to five miles wide; with an average length of eight miles, six broad, and 20 in circumference; although fertile and thickly inhabited, it contains no town, the inhabitants being scattered in six villages, protected by a strong fort, Rabato, in the centre of the island. The surface of the island is very agreeeably diversified with hill and dale, some of the more elevated parts in the north-west being nearly 2,000 feet above the sea. A chain of these elevations encircle the island, embracing a beautiful series of fertile vallies, separated by gently rising grounds; the sum-ized by its humidity, accompanied by an exhausting mits of some of the mountains are flattened, and form truly table lands; others are rounded or mammillary; and there are four or five remarkably detached hills, perfectly conical in shape, and presenting the appearance of old volcanic productions. The interior of the island and its shores abound in caves and rocks, being of the same calcareous nature as those of Malta, but the country is much more rural and agreeable.

Fort Chambray, commenced in 1749, contains the principal accommodation for troops; it lies on the south-east side of the island, and is built upon an elevated promontory, forming one side of a little bay in which the Malta boats anchor; the shore all round is very bold especially to the south, where it rises into rugged and inaccessible cliffs, with huge masses of rock broken off from them and projecting into the sea; the road gradually winds from the sea to the fort (which is 500 feet above the shore) after a circuit of about 700 yards; the area on which this fortification is built being about 2,500 feet in circumference. The barracks accommodate 250 men, are admirably arranged, and there is a small but excellent hospital attached.

The oblong islet of Comino, two miles in length, lying between the larger islands, has a few inhabitants, employed in cultivating about 30 acres of land, and in preserving the numerous rabbits.

Besides Cominotto, which lies off the north-west end of Comino, there are four or five other islets, or rather rocks, belonging to Malta and Gozo. On the south coast of Malta is Filfosa, or Filfla, which contains, it is said, an ancient parish church; nearer the shore, and more to the eastward, is a rock called the Pietra Nera; and at the north-west end of the island, towards Gozo, is another rock, called the Scoglio Marfo. At the north end of St. Paul's Bay is the island of Salmonetta, but the best known of these

degree of temperature, producing a damp and suffocating smell to the sick; these Siroccos are most prevalent in August, September, and October. The north-east wind ("gregale") is brief and violent in its duration, frequently occasioning serious mischief in the harbour during the winter months.

Occasionally sudden and partial gusts of intensely heated air are felt in Malta, which are blown from the coast of Africa. Fortunately they seldom exceed half a minute in duration, for if longer continued, life would be extinguished, owing to the severity of the heat, which is remarkable for blowing in tracts, affecting the inhabitants of one house and not their neighbours. It is probably a portion of the "Samiel" or "Simoom" of Africa. When dry wind blows over the island, especially in summer, volumes of impalpable dust float about, which is precipitated in the shape of a shower of mud, on the recurrence of a damp wind, or when the fogs and dews are peculiarly long.

No regular sea and land breezes are felt in Malta, by which the heat would be moderated; and it is a remarkable fact that Captain Smyth found the temperature of the sea, round the adjacent shores of Sicily, at a depth of 10 to 20 fathoms, 73. to 76. Fahrenheit, which was 10 or 12 degrees warmer than the water outside of the Straits of Gibraltar. Snow only appears at Malta as a luxury imported from Etna, but in the winter months there are frequent hail showers. Rain falls with tropical violence in December, January, and part of February. About March the sky gets settled; an occasional shower may fall in April and May, but during June, July, and August not a cloud is to be seen. September and October are cooled with showers, the air is placid and invigorating, and termed “St. Martin's," or the "little summer.'

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Return of Deaths amongst the British Troops in the Command of Malta, during a period of Ten Years, viz.from 1825 to 1834 inclusive. [Transmitted to me from Malta by the late Governor Sir F. Ponsonby.]

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Dyspnoea Cont.
Colica

Cholera Morbus .

Diarrhoea

Amentia

Ascites

Icterus

Dysuria.

Vulnus Incisum

Contusia

Fractura

Hæmorrhagia.

Sudden Deaths, &c.

Hæmoptysis

Syncope

Aneurisma

Apoplexia

Hæmatemesis

Fractura

Contusia

Vulnus Sclopitarium

Suicides.

Drowned

Suffocation

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Average strength of command 2036 2610 1776 2667 2291 2406 2094 2118 2117 2364

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