TRAVELS IN RUSSIA,

&c. &c.

CHAPTER I.

Departure from St. Petersburg. - Pavlovsky, seat of the Empress Dowager.-Palace of Tzarskoe Selo. - Posthouse at Podberos. - Extraordinary scene. - Novgorod.-Rakhino.-Peasantry, &c.- Volochok.- River Tvertza. -Torshok.-Chonogros. -Torshok. Chonogros. - Palace of Petrovsky. - Arrival at Moscow.

HAVING viewed the most interesting edifices and other objects at St. Petersburg, it was now our intention to proceed to the ancient capital of the empire, which had become more peculiarly interesting in consequence of the resistance it had made against Napoleon, the devastation it then experienced, and its subsequent rapid revival from almost total extinction. The road in this direction was really excellent, and we observed in various places several handsome wells, built of granite, and ornamented with sphinxes in the antique style. After proceeding about ten versts, we ascended a hill, a rare object

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CHATEAU OF PAVLOVSKY.

indeed in this country, called Pulkosky, and may be considered the Highgate of St. Petersburg, from which we enjoyed charming views of prodigious extent. Along the side of the road were a number of neat cottages, with gardens in front: many of these were built on an uniform plan; and in a hollow at a short distance further, we saw a kind of village, forming what is termed the German colony.

Turning off from the high-road, we visited the small château of Pavlovsky, the residence of the Empress Dowager. Although not destitute of elegance, the exterior of this edifice has no pretensions to any magnificence, but its interior contains many splendid apartments, and it is more spacious than it appears to be, the wings being nearly concealed by trees. The principal rooms, particularly that called the Lanthorn, contain some fine pictures; while superb vases of Siberian jasper, chimney-pieces of malachite, and lapis-lazuli, marble tables, and Gobelin tapestry, &c. produce a splendid effect. The chapel, which is connected with the house by a gallery, is tastefully fitted up, and hung at the altar-end with red velvet; it has also a copy of the celebrated Notte of Correggio. But this palace is not so remarkable for the works of art it contains, as the beauty of the grounds; in decorating which neither labour nor expense have been spared, and they may claim for this resi

TZARSKOE SELO.

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dence the appellation of the Stowe of Russia. They are laid out with admirable taste, and embellished with groves, lawns, parterres, and lakes; with grottos, obelisks, mausolea, and other ornamental structures; among which that erected to the memory of Paul, by his imperial widow, deserves notice. This shrine is situated within the recesses of a thick grove of fir and cypress, and has a portico of six granite columns of colossal dimensions. The monument itself, which is the production of the celebrated sculptor Martos, consists of a majestic figure, representing the Empress, who is weeping over the urn of her consort. The pedestal is ornamented with a bas-relief, and a medallion of the Emperor is affixed to the obelisk of red granite, that serves as a back-ground to the figure. The Empress's flower-garden contains no fewer than 15,000 flower-pots and vases filled with the most choice and rare plants, whose beautiful colours and delightful fragrance are quite enchanting.

Having gratified ourselves with inspecting all the beauties of this delicious retreat, we proceeded to Tzarskoe Selo, which was originally erected by Peter the Great, who presented it to his consort, but was rebuilt by Elizabeth, in 1744; was again improved and extended by Catherine II., and is now the summer residence of the imperial family. Every thing is here on a scale of extraordinary magnificence, and worthy the resi

dence of a monarch. At one extremity there is a noble lake, flanked by a majestic terrace of massive polished granite; and over the canal communicating with that fine piece of water are three bridges of the same material. The banks of the lake are farther ornamented with three Gothic buildings, forming what is denominated the Admiralty; they being destined to serve as a shelter in winter to the elegant yachts, and other pleasure-vessels, that in fine weather are seen gliding over the glassy waters, reflecting their gilded sides and gay banners. On one part of this lake is a vast hall, built by the Empress Elizabeth for concerts; but the noblest architectural ornament is the superb rostral column, erected to commemorate Orlov's victory over the Turkish fleet at Chesme. On three sides of the granite pedestal are bas-reliefs, and on the fourth an inscription, recording that memorable action. What adds considerably also to the beauty of this scene, is the number of swans, ducks, and other aquatic birds that are to be seen on the lake and its banks. It would require some space to describe all the various objects that embellish this abode of royalty; the Gothic ruins; the Turkish kiosk, copied from one in the garden of the seraglio at Constantinople; the various Chinese and other pavilions; the magnificent triumphal arch, erected in honour of Count Gregory Orlov; another of

more recent date, to commemorate the achievements of the late war; the new terrace, &c. Let it suffice, therefore, to observe, that it is difficult to determine whether our admiration is most excited by the splendours of art or by the beauties of nature, which here exhibits a luxuriance that one would imagine absolutely impossible at the 60° of northern latitude. The palace itself, both for its extent and imposing appearance, may be considered as one of the noblest royal residences in Europe, although it has now lost much of its pristine magnificence; the roof, which was at first gilded, having been painted of a light green colour.

The principal rooms form an enfilade, and the pannels of their doors are richly gilded. Notwithstanding, however, all the elegance displayed in other respects, they are poorly furnished, with the exception of those occupied by the reigning Empress, which are at one extremity of the palace. In her study were a number of books in the French and English language. One of these was open, and we found it to be Captain Parry's Voyage, which she appeared to have been just looking over. Adjoining to these are the apartments of the Emperor. One room in this palace is entirely of amber; which was a present of Frederick I. of Prussia to Elizabeth; and the doors are inlaid with mosaic. In a spacious and lofty hall are portraits of Cathe