STOLPE.

LAUNBERG.

125

After changing horses, we traversed for some way a country covered with wood, till, on a sudden, it changed to barren heath, where yellow broom, and many wild flowers, were wasting their sweets on the desert air. On the sides of the road many of the trees were the very images of winter, their leaves having been totally devoured by the maikafer, an insect the size of a beetle, and, I believe, known in England under the name of cockchaffer it subsists on the leaves of trees; but avoids those of the lime. As it often strikes against objects when flying, it is presumed to be blind; and this has occasioned the proverb "As blind as a beetle." Their ravages are often equal to those of locusts, and in their flight they have been known to darken the air. They commit great destruction here; and on shaking a tree, thousands of them drop off.

We arrived at nine o'clock at Stolpe, a pretty large town, with a castle and ramparts; and put up at the cleanest inn we had seen in Prussia; but soon set out again, and, travelling all night, reached Launberg at four o'clock. The morning was exceedingly fine, but the thermometer stood so low as 45°. Some parts of the farms were enclosed with fences, which we had not before seen. The great diversity of scenery which occurs in the course of a few miles, is very remarkable: in one place, a rich country, with luxuriant crops, will appear; this is succeeded

126

NEUSTADT. — CLOISTER.

by one totally covered with wood; and again, by a third of barren sandy heath. After passing Gottingen the country became highly picturesque; for, on each side, was a chain of high hills, stretching as far as the eye could reach, and covered to the top with wood. These green ramparts of foliage, the luxuriant crops, and villages enclosed with trees, formed altogether the finest scenery we had seen in this country. We were also agreeably surprised to find that the toilsome sandy tract was passed, and that we were now on a substantial line of road, covered with gravel, and adorned with trees at measured distances; nor is a better road to be found in England.

Neustadt, where we next arrived, is a small town, having about 900 inhabitants; and one square, with a cistern in the centre, surrounded with trees. There are two churches, one of them belonging to the Roman Catholics, which has also a cloister, with seven monks of the Franciscan order, and a school for instruction in the principles of the Catholic faith. There are in this church full-length portraits of several Franciscans, and before it a high cross, with the effigy of our Saviour. A number of Catholics reside in this place; and an opulent individual, named Vaier, has, in his enthusiasm for the propagation of their doctrines, erected a number of chapels in different parts of the country, which

KATZ.

PROSPECT OF DANTZIC.

127

are similar to those in Catholic countries for religious devotion. In a village called Lessen, some robbers broke into the church, and carried off all the plate. The thermometer, at twelve o'clock, was at 76°, the greatest degree of heat we had experienced this summer.

During our next stage the beautiful chain of hills still continued, till, after we had proceeded a short way, the mighty Baltic presented itself; and we came to Katz, a large post-house romantically situate on an elevation, surrounded with trees. After this a delightful view of an extensive bay suddenly burst upon us, with a prospect of Dantzic, and numerous vessels at anchor, forming a scene resembling the line of coast from Leith to Berwick. We passed several villas and cottages on the brow of the hills, and along each side of the road met many of the Dantzickers driving from town in their "Stuhlwagens," with their families, and smoking their pipes in Turkish luxury. On approaching the town we passed along an avenue, with a double row of lime trees, not unlike the approach to Berlin by the Brandenburg Gate; and selected for our quarters the "Deutsche Hotel," which is reckoned the best in the city.

CHAP. V.

Dantzic. ·General remarks.. Cathedral.-"Last Judg

ment," by Van Eyck.—Public buildings, &c.— Criminals. -Jews.-Poles. - Fahrenheit. - Fortifications.- River and canal.—Imports and exports.

THE Gedanum of the ancients, now Dantzic, the capital of West Prussia, is situate on the west branch of the Vistula, near its entrance into the Baltic, and is considered one of the richest cities in the Prussian dominions. The town is extensive, is encompassed with fortifications and moats, and has a good harbour. Both its strength and commercial importance, which latter may be dated from as far back as the year 997, render it a place of considerable note. Anciently it ranked as the principal of the Hanse Towns, and was under the protection of Poland; but in 1798 resigned itself to Prussia. In 1807, after a siege of four months, it was taken by the French, who demanded contributions to the extent of about 16,000,000 of franks; by the treaty of Tilsit, however, it was restored to its former independence, under the protection of Prussia and Saxony. In 1812 it was again besieged by the Allies, when, after a brave defence, it surrendered

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GENERAL REMARKS.

129

to them, Jan. 1. 1814, and once more reverted to Prussia.

There are not so many objects of interest as might be supposed in a city of this extent, and one whose population is estimated at 60,000. The general physiognomy of the buildings, however, is very striking; having an air of antiquity beyond that of almost any place we had before visited. The houses, which are built of brick, are narrow in front, are from five to six stories in height, and exhibit great diversity of form. Most of them are full of windows, and ornamented with various devices and fantastical effigies. The streets are narrow, and there are no foot-pavements, as the space is completely occupied by enormous projections and antiquated stairs in front of the houses. Some of them have massive iron railings, with brass ornaments, and others are altogether of stone, with grotesque figures of lions, eagles, and fish, and enormous balls. Beneath these projections are booths, and in front of the houses are large wells. We may presume that these singular constructions are considered beautiful; for they have certainly neither convenience nor any other advantage to recommend them, or rather, are positive incumbrances and nuisances; yet an artist might consider them picturesque. The shops or warehouses for readymade coffins, with inscriptions over them, struck us as being peculiar to this place, and seemed to