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Europe, had ever been good Friends and Allies. The Palace has handsome Apartments, that are many of them hung with Pictures of the reigning Beauties in the Court of France. But the best of the Furniture was at Rome, where the Prince of Monaco resided at that time Ambaflador. We here took a little Boat to creep' along the Sea-shore as far as Genoa; but at Savona, finding the Sea too rough, we were forced to make the best of out* way by Land, over very rugged Mountains and Precipices: For this Road is much more difficult than that over Mount Cennis.
The Genoese are esteemed extremely Cunning, Industrious, and inur'd to Hardship above the rest of the Italians 5 which was likewise the Character of the old Ligurians. And indeed it is no wonder, while the Barrenness of their Country continues, that the Manners of the Inhabitants do not change.- Since thereis nothing makes Men sharper, and sets their Hands and Wits more at work than Want. The Italian Proverb fays of the Genoese, that they have a Sea without Fish, Land without Trees, and Men without Faith. The Character the Latin Poets have given of them is not much different.
B 4 Assuf
AJsuetumque malo Ligurem. Virg. G. 2.
The hard Ligurians, a laborious kind.
• Pernix Ligur. Sil. It. L. 8.
Fallaces Ligures. Aus. Eid. iz,
jlpenninkola bellator filius Æni Haud Ligurum extremus, dum sallen sata Jinebant. Æn. 11.
Yet, like a true Ligurian, born to cheat, (Atleast while Fortune savour'd his Deceit.)
Vane Ligur, frustrate animis elate superbis,
Nequicquam patrias tentafii Lubricus ar
Vain Fool and Coward, cries the lofty
Maid, Caught in the Train which thou thy self
hast kid. On others practise thy Ligurian Arts* Thin Stratagems, and Tricks of little
Hearts Are lost on me} nor shalt thou safe retire, With vaunting Lies to thy fallacious Sire.
There are a great many beautiful Palaces standing along the Sea-shore on both sides oiGenoa, which make the Town appear pear much longer than it is, to those that fail by it. The City it self makes the noblest Show of any in the World. The Houses are most of them painted on the Outside} so that they look extreamly gay and lively, besides that they are esteemed the highest in Europe, and stand very thick together. The New-Street is a double Range of Palaces from one end to the othersbuilt with "an excellent Fancy, and fit for the greatest Princes to inhabit. I cannot however be reconciled to their manner of Painting several of the Genoese Houses. Figures, Perspectives, or Pieces of History are certainly very ornamental, as they are drawn on many of the Walls, that would otherwise look too naked and uniform without them: But instead of these, one often sees the Front of a Palace covered with painted Pillars of different Orders. If these were so many true Columns of Marble, set in their proper Architecture, they would, certainly very much adorn the Places where they stand, , but as they are now, they only shew us that there is something wanting, and that the Palace, which without these Counterfeit Pillars would be beautiful in its kind, might have been, more perfect by the Addition ofisuch as are real. The Front of the Villa Imperials, at a Mile
B 5- distance y distance from Genoa, without any thing of this Paint upon it, consists of a Doric and Corinthian Ro»w of Pillars, and is much the handsomest of any I there saw. The Duke of Dorians Palace has the best Outside of any in Genoa,,as that of Durazzo is the best furnished within. There is one Room in the first, that is hung with Tapestry, in which are wrought the Figures of the great Persons, that the Family has produced; as perhaps there isno House in Europe, that can show a lon-r gerLine of Heroes, that have still acted for the Good of their Country. Andrew Doria has a Statue erected to him at the Entrance of the Doge's Palace, with the glorious Title of Deliverer of the Com-mon-wealth •> and one of his Family another, that calls him its Preserver. In theDoge's Palace, are the Rooms, where the great and little Council with the Two Colleges hold their Assemblies} but as the State of Genoa is very poor, tho' several of its Members are extreamly rich,, so one may observe infinitely more Splendor and Magnificence, in particular Persons Houses, than in thole that belong to the Publick. But we find in most of the States of Europe, ih at the People show the greatest Marks of. Poverty.,, where
the:tlie Governors live in the greatest Magnificence. The Churches are very fine, particularly that of the Annunciation, which looks wonderfully beautiful in the Inside, all but one Corner of it being covered wkh Statues, Gilding and Paint. A Man would expect, in so very ancient a Town of Italy, to find some considerable Antiquities; but all they have to show of this Nature is an old Rostrum of a Roman Ship, that stands over the Door of their Arsenal. It is not above a Foot long, and perhaps would never have been thought the Beak of a Ship, had not it been found in so probable a Place as the Haven. It is all of Iron, fashioned at the End like a Boar's Head} as I have seen it represented on Medals, and on the Columna Rostrata in Rome. I saw at Genoa Signior Miccom's famous Collection ot' Shells, which, as Father Buonani the Jesuite has since told me, is one of the best in Italy. I know nothing more remark- able, in the Government of Genoa, than the Bank of St. George, made up of such Branches oFthe Revenues, as have been set apart, and appropriated to the discharging of several Sums, that have been borrowed from private Persons,during the Exigencies of the Common-wealth.