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CXXII. Description of the Indians, Aborigines of Guiana, in South America ;
from a Narrative of an Expedition to Surinam-Capt. Stedman

CXXIII. Wonderful Effect from the Biting of a Bat-Ibid.

CXXIV. Of Mermaids-Ibid.

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323

THE

FLOWERS

OF

MODERN TRAVELS.

T

SECT. LXXXII.

OF ANTWERP AND BRUSSELS.

HE approach to the city of Antwerp is noble, by a straight paved road, bordered with oaks. It is the capital of the province whose name it bears, belonging to the Austrian Netherlands, and under the dominion of the Emperor. It is situated on the eastern shore of the Scheld, a noble river, twenty feet deep at low water; so that ships of great burden may unload upon the quays, or enter the town by eight canals, which communicate with the river, some of which are large enough to contain an hundred ships at the same time.

The city is much decayed from its ancient grandeur, though it still remains a beautiful place. It is built in the form of a crescent, about seven miles in circumference, surrounded with a wall and bastions faced with stone. The top of the wall is an hundred feet broad, with a double row of trees, between which is a most agreeable walk. The streets are well paved, very spacious, and uniform. The houses in general are seven or eight stories high, but old, and in that miserable style of building which disgraces the towns in Holland. At the distance of a quarter of a mile is the citadel, built by the Duke of Alva, to keep

VOL. II.

B

the city in subjection. It stands on the banks of the Scheld, and commands at once the river, the city, and the adjacent country. It is built in a pentagonal form, with five bastion, which defend each other, surrounded with double ditches.

To this citadel is only one entrance, which is over a draw-bridge. It is about a mile in circumference, and well supplied with arms, ammunition, and warlike stores, with barracks for three thousand men. This fortress has been of such repute for strength and regularity, that it has a model for subsequent engineers; notwithstanding which the French in 1746 took it in seven days.

'The trade of Antwerp is now confined to very narrow limits, though, so late as the middle of the sixteenth century, there were two hundred thousand inhabi tants, two thousand five hundred ships lying often in the river at a time; and it was far from unfrequent for five hundred vessels to come in or go out of the harbour in a day.

The trade of Antwerp in the year 1550, if the annels of their city can be railed on, amounted to one hundred and thirty three millions of geld, without including the bank.

As an instance of the amazing opulence of the merchants, there is a story upon the record of John Daens, a merchant, who lent a million of gold to Charles V. to carry on his wars in Hungary. The emperor on his return dined with the merchant, who gave him a most sumptuous entertainment, and at the close of it burnt the contract by which the emperor was bound to pay him a million of gold, in a fire of cinnamon, which was the only fire during the repast. The rise of their trade was as rapid as the decline, and both proceeded from the same causes. At the begining of the sixteenth century Bruges was the mart of Europe; but the war at that time breaking out in Flanders, the merchant withdrew from Bruges, and were invited to Antwerp, as a place of greater safety, whose situation was happily calculated for

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commerce. But this did not last long, for the civil wars breaking out in the low Countries, and Antwerp having twice been sacked, drove trade to seek a more peaceful refuge in Amsterdam.

The established religion is the Catholic; the language Low Dutch; but a basterd kind of French is spoken by most of the inhabitants.

We have been so fortunate as to see a grand procession in honour of St. Roeque. The whole Mer, the most magnificent streets in Antwerp, was illuminated with torches, and many hundred people in proeession with flambeaux, followed by the Virgin Mary, precious relics, the Host, and infinity of such kind of trumpery, amidst the chours of voices, serpents,* and trumpets.

The whole road from Antwerp to Brussels is delightful. Brussels is the capital of Brabant, and of all the Austrian Netherlands. It is the residence of the Governor-General of the Low Countries. It is twenty-four miles south of Antwerp, and thirty southeast of Ghent, situated on the Senne, an inconsiderable river. The scite of this city resembles Guildford, being built on the brow of a hill. Its figure is oval, about four miles in circumference, surrounded with a wall, and tolerably fortified. The Low Town has the benefit of canals, which admit boats of considerable burden.

The upper town is magnificent, and has lately been much improved by new buildings, and by inelosing a piece of waste ground, planting it, and laying it out in walks.

The arsenal stands on the top of the street called Montagne la à Cour. There is some old armour in it of neither curiosity nor use; except an iron shield, which no sword can pierce, and a steel shield so finely engraved that the figures seem reflected from the polish, not to be etched in the steel. The nicest

* Le Serpent is a wind instrument which is used in all Roman Gatholic churches, where the voices are accompained with musie

touch cannot perceive the least scratch; notwithstanding which the figures appear to be strongly marked, when the shield is held obliquely.

Just below the arsenal is the Palace of the governor of the Austrian Netherlands. The present palace is not more than half finished. There was upon this spot an old one, which was bought of the Prince of Orange, at the time the grand palace was burnt, in which was a most capital collection of pictures, especially of Ruben's, which with many valuable curiosities perished in the flames.

The staircase of the present palace is very magnificent. The steps are of marble, and the balustrade of iron, gilt, and adorned with compartments of birds and beasts, nicely executed in polished steel by Trieste. The cieling is painted of Freseo.

The apartment of the Princess is hung with the Brussels tapestry, which is brought to great perfeetion. The floors are all inlaid with mahogany and box. The Princess's cabinet is much admired, being covered throughout with the finest japan. The late Prince was a great mechanic, and had a cabinet of euriosities trifling enough, among which were two boxes, containing all the common trades in minature.

TOUR THROUGH HOLLAND.

SECT. LXXXIII.

OF BARCELONA IN SPAIN.

THIS city is a sweet spot. The air equals in purity, and much excels in mildness, the boasted climate of Montpelier. Except in the dog-days, you may have green pease all the year round. The situation is beautiful, the appearance both from land and sea remarkably picturesque. A great extent of fruitful plains, bounded by an amphitheatre of hills, backs it on the west side; the mountain of Montjuich defends it on the south from the unwholesome winds that blow over the marshes at the mouth of the Llobregat ; to the northward, the coast projecting into the sea forms

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