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Mr. URBAN,

Dec. 17. clofed my last letter within fight of Holland: the first land which we made upon the Dutch. coaft was the island of Goree, which exhibits a bleak and barren aspect, we foon deferie the ifle of Voorn, the appearance of which is more inviting; and at the fame time we had a view of the coat of 0.er Flackee, fretching to the fouth-eg. When we came in fight of Helvoetfluvs, two fmall bors pushed off to us, with a view of taking passengers on thʊ e, as our veffel was prevented by the tide and weather from going d by into the harbour Several of the paffenger ca geriv embraced this oppor nnity of fetting their feet upon dry land; but I felt no inclination to gratify the avarice of the Dutch skipper efpecie a I found the ica air falutary and relishing; nd was, moreover, engaged in an interebine converfation with Come of my flowvoyagers. It was Sunday morning, and the converfation turned upon the reisi

ous character of the prefent «gr I WAS remarked that the etablish clergy of Holland were decorous in their manners, and laborious in difcharging the duties of their funtion; that the churches were not fo genera ly deforted by the great and opalent as in England; and that the common people were mor attentive to the cuties of region than the lower clade, in this kingdom; where, it was allested, that public worth p was more neglected than in any Proteftant country in Europe. "And is there any Proteftant country in Europe befides Eng and,” faid another, "where money and court intereft are rendered the chief patiports to preferment, which tolerates the abufes of plurality and nonrefinence, or where catechetical inftruction is so much peglected? thefe are the great fources of the thinness of our congregations, and the ignorance of the people. Is not the ignorance of the common people, who live within the fphere of Oxford and Cambridge, proverbial? and where can be the wonder, when it is notorious that the churches are chiefly fupplied by Fellows of Colleges, who fcamper among them once a week, and fee no more of them till the return of Sunday?" The justice of thefe ftri&tures was not to be denied: I could only fay that the clergy of the Church of England were men, and acted as any other fet of men would do under a fimilar fyftem; that none lamented the relaxation of ecclefiaftical difcipline, and the neglect of the pofitive inftitations of Christianity among the

laity, more than many of the clerical order themselves; and that I had the happiness to be acquainted with numbers of that defcription, illuftrious ornaments of learning, piety, and virtue; who, to ufe the emphatical language of one of the prophes, "fighed for all the abominations that were done in the midst of

I had a converfation with a member of the Lutheran church, a native of Ratifbos, on the fubies of fub crption to ffiematical feifions of faith, but there w. nothing advanced on either fide of the quo which the reader will not ond detailed in Dean Tucker's Apology for the Church of England, and in Archdeacon Blackburne's celebrated performance entitled The Confeffional. He told me that in fome part of Germany, the name of which I forget, fubfcription to the Augsburg confeffion had been lately put upon a new footing, namely, that the fuoferier fhould receive that fvitem of do&rine as far as the fame appeared to him agreeable to Scripture. But I do not recolle&t whether he meant to affert that this innovation had been introduced by authority or by connivance; or, rather, that many of the Lutheran clergy had recourfe to that falvo in private, in order to eafe their own confciences. I begged leave to remark, however, that fuch an expedient, instead of placing fubicription upon a new foottag was rendering it abfolutely null and voi as to the purpofes of an exclufive eftablishment; and that, upon the fame principle, a clergyman might fubfcribe the creed of Confucius, or the Alcoran of Mahomet. At the fame time I declared that I had no ambition to become the champion of fubfcription, a practice which many wife and good inen had condemned, as tending to undermine the two great pillars of the Proteftant Reformation, namely, the all-fufficiency of Scripture, and the right of private judge.

ment.

I thought, however, that the Church of England, as an independent fociety, had the fame right to fettle the terms of her communion which was affumed by every Diffenting congregation in the kingdom; and that every clergyman, who fubfibed to her articles and liturgy ex animo, without paffing a fen tence of condemnation upon Nonconfor mifts, might justly claim the character of a confitent Proteftant. By this time our attention was diverted from controverly to fome Dutch men of war who lay at anchor in the road. We failed clofe by a 64 gun fhip while the crew were upon deck attending divine fervice.

We

We could hear the voice of the preacher, whole lungs feemed well calculated for the station which he occupied.; and, after making feveral tacks between the ifland of Goree and Voorn, we ftood in for the harbour of Heltoetsluys, where we arrived fafe between eleven and twelve

o'clock.

Before I lefthe veffel, I ventured to remonftrate against the practice of profane fwearing, to which English failors were unhappily fo much addiЯed.

One of the crew obferved, with great compofure, that the poor fellows feldom meant any harm, and that their oaths paffed as words of course. "Now for inftance, Sir, added he, "when the captain fwears at the men, it comes to naturally that they take no notice of it; but if fuch a gentleman as you were to addrefs them in the fame ftyle, they would ftare, because they would conclude that you meant fomething, or rather that your meaning was very bad." But this reafoning was far from being fatisfactory, and I perfifted in lamenting that failors fhould be fo much addicted to a breach of the third Commandment.

Helvoetfluys is a fortified town, and has a fine capacious harbour which runs through the principal street. Upon landing I met with no interruption from Cuftom-Houfe officers; but I was accofted upon the Quay by one of the military, who defired me to write down my name and profeflion; and, upon complying with his request, he nodded with the gravity of a Quaker, faying, "Yaw, Domine." In walking about the town my attention was powerfully arrested by the novelty of every object that prefented itfelf to my view; the meatness and cleanliness of the houfes and pavement furpaffed what I had ever feen before; the gable ends of the houfes generally fronted the fireets, and the window-fhutters were painted in a manner that produced a pretty effect. I was ftruck with the compofed phlegmatic appearance of the men fmoaking their pipes out of doors; and I was amufed with the high petticoats, the protuberant rumps, and the broad ftraw-hats, of the lower clafs of females walking about the streets flipfhod; many of them were adorned with gilt ear-rings, and with black patches ftuck upon their temples, which, I was told, were not regarded fo much in the light of beauty-pots, as amulets againit

the head-ach.

I was conducted to an inn called the

Prince of Orange; kept by an Englishman, whofe name is Bridge. I now found it neceffany to exchange fome of my English gold for Dutch money; and I spent about half an hour in studying their pounds, things, and pence, under the tuition of my hoft. Eight doits make a fiver, which is equal in value to our penny; two slivers make a dubliky: a feltehalf configs of five fivers and a half, a goode Relfing of fix ftivers, and 20 tiyers make a florin or gilder, of which I received twelve for a guinea.

This beng Sunday, gave me an opportunity of feeing the people in their beft attire. Aloft every perfon whom I faw wore an orange-favour; and a perfon, who was pointed out to me as the mmifter of the parish, had a large orangecockade in his hat. In a wide baíon at the end of the harbour feveral men of war lay very quiet and fnug. I was informed that fome, of them had been built at the time of our laft rupture with Holland, and had never been used. I afked a perfon, whom from his anfwer I fufpected to be a wag, why those ships were fuffered to remain idle at this critical period? The antwer was, that they bad been unfortunately confirucled in fuch a manner as to render it impracticable to get them down the barbour: he added, moreover, that their High Mightineffes could not prevail upon the feamen to fecond their zeal in the caufe, by manning thofe fhips that were actually ready for fervice. "And are their High Mightineffes then really and truly zealous in the caufe ""No doubt of it," replied he, "becaufe they cannot help it, and they will certainly remain fo as long as the cabinets of Berlin and London can confine their zeal in the proper channel, and as long as England is generous enough to fight their battles and to protect their trade."

I recollected, with the enthufiafm

which is natural to an admirer of the Revolution in 1688, that I now flood upon the fpot from which, King Wil liam embarked for England; and that the road of Helvoet had been the repdezvous of the grand armament which delivered the land of my nativity from Popish flavery and arbitrary power.

After having gratified my curiofity at Helvoetfluys, I proceeded on my journey in a vehicle called aftage waggon, which had no covering at top, and which in point of comfort and elegance was not much fuperior to a common English cart; but a better conveyance was not

] Journey from He'voet to

be procured, and before it could be obtained I was obliged to repair to the office of the Commiffary, who has allthe waggoners in the town under his jurifdi&tion. I was accompanied by three of my fellow paffengers from England. The waggon was drawn by a pair of wretched horfes, and the driver was a complete boor, who fat at the end of the machine with one foot refting upon a piece of wood which projected from the axle, and the other clapped to one of the horse's pofteriors. In this wretched conveyance were we jolted over the Island of Voorn through bad roads and à poor-looking country to the Brill, a well-built town, near the mouth of the Maefe, which is upwards of a mile wide here, and covered with merchantmen to and from Rotterdam. The Brill is the chief town in the Ifle of Voorn, which is about 20 miles long, and between fix and feven miles broad. This ifland contains many fertile fpots, and produces, I am told, large quantities of madder. The number of inhabitants at the Brill is faid to be five thoufand. There are two Dutch churches, which are ferved by three pettors; and a Walloon or French church. The principal street is extremely neat and pretty. The great church is a magnificent edifice, and the tower affords a confpicuous land-mark to the mariner. This town has the honour of having given birth to the celebrated Admiral Tromp. Vice Admiral de Witt was allo a native of this place, and the civilian Neoftadius; but the Brill is chiefly famous in history as the first place which was wrefted from Philip the Second in that long and memorable ftruggle which terminated in the independance of Holland. It was captured in 1572 by a party of Flemith mat-contents, who had taken refuge in England, but, having been expeiled by government in confequence of a remonftrance from the Duke of Alva, they made a defcent upon the Ifle of Voorn, under the direction of the Count of Marche, took the town by furprize, and opened the firft afylum of freedom in Batavia. The Brill was alfo one of the cautionary towns delivered up to England as a pledge for the expences we had incurred in fupporting the Dutch infurgents, it remained in the hands of the Eng! th till the year 1616, when James the First gave it back, with Flushing and Ramekins, the other cautionary towns, in lieu of a third part of the fum for

which they had been mortgaged to Queen Elizabeth.

The tage from Helvoet to the Brill coft me two fhillings and four-p Scotchman, whofe name was Hector Our vehicle drove to an inn kept by -pence. Leflie, a very old man, who has refided here many years, and who had been originally a soldier of -che Scots brigade in the pay of the States General. Here I parted with my companions, who took my courfe towards the Hague, folus cum a boat for Rotterdam; and I directed folo, and without any knowledge of the language of the country. My portby a tall flip-fhod female, whofe ears manteau was carried to the ferry-boat were adorned with gaudy pendents, and petticoats fcarcely concealed her legs, her temples with black patches; her which were far from being patterns of elegance; and, to give me an opportunity of furveying all her shapes and paces, the marched before me upon the pavement with long firides. I prefented which the received with a very complaher with four fivers for her trouble, Mynheer," accompanied by a gentle cent fmile, and a "Yaw tank you, bend of the head, for the Dutch women feldom curtfie.

Rofenbure. When we had got about I coffed the Macfe to the island of half-way over the ferry, the kipper held out his hand, faying, in broken English, "Will you fpare the moneys, Mynheer?" and I paid him five flyers. One of the paffengers, a phlegmatic Dutchman with a pipe in his mouth, took my portmanteau, without faying houfe, which was near the landingword, and carried it to the waggoner's place. I nodded thanks for his great civility which he returned by holding out his hand, and faying, with a grave fiedfaft look, "Dubliky, Mynheet;" couple of pence for my trouble. I was in other words, you must give me a forced to wait half-an-hour at this place till my charioteer could catch his horfes, who were grazing in an adjoining held. occafioned no fmall difficuity in barMy ignorance of the Dutch language gaining with the waggoner, with whom I had a very grotefque converfatio forn the business was adjulied to our mutual` fome minutes in dumb thow. When fatisfaction, I mounted a cart of the fame confìruction with the Helvoet machine, and was fhaken over the little of the Macfe, on the oppofite fide inland of Rofenbure to another anch

Maefland-Sluice.-Journey to Delft.-A Dutch Sunday. [

which fands the delightful village of
Maefland-fluice, which is thus defcri-
bed by an entertaining traveller: "It
is an extensive place, well built, with
canals running through almoft every
Atreet. Those which have not the be-
nefit of the water are ornamented with
rows of walnut-trees; and, though
chiefly inhabited by fishermen, the town
is as neat as cleanlinets can make it."
This place, I am informed, carries on
a very confiderable trade in herrings and
Rock-fifh, of which the common people
in Holland confume great quantities.
Here are two churches of the establish-
ed religion; one of which was built not
many years fince; a proof of the increa-
fing population of this noble village

proceeded to Delft, in a treckfchuyte, which is the moft ufual mode of travelling in this country. It is a barge drawn along a canal by horfes, and moves at the rate of three or four miles an hour. Thefe draw-boats

punctual in their hours of departure and arrival; and the diflance from one place to another is computed by hours instead of miles. A treckfehuyte confifts of two feparate parts, the roof, and the common room; the former is a neat little cabin at the ftern of the boat, adorned with fath windows, containing a table, and feats covered with velvet cufhions, where fix or eight perfons may be accommodated. The latter occupies the body of the vessel, and not unfrequently contains thirty or forty people, whole chief amufement confifts in imoaking tobacco: if you are inclined to be alone, you may often have an opportu. nity of hiring the whole roof at a trifling additional expence; and as the motion of the treckfchuyte is fcarcely perceptible, you may write with the fame eafe as in your study. I left Macfland-fluice about, fix in the evening, and, for the first time, found myself gliding along in a treckfchuyte. I had the good fortune to obtain a feat in the roof, wherein I found three young men fmoaking their pipes, who knew no more of English than I did of Dutch; hut the fkipper had fome knowledge of the English lan guage: he was uncommonly civil, and feemed to take great pleature in gratify ing my curiofity with the names of places on each fide of the canal. The country was quite flat; but the meadows looked rich and fertile, and were well flocked with cattle. There was no pieat variety of profpećt; verdant meadows, interfected by ditches tufted with willows, and ccafionally terminated by a fpire, and

a clump of trees, formed the prominent
features of the landfcape. The dull uni-
formity of the canal running in a straight
ine was relieved by treckfchuytes and
with rows of elms and willow, neat farm
fmall craft; and it banks were skirted
houles, gentlemen's feats and villages.
In one of the villages through which we
paffed, although it was Sunday evening

Many a youth, and many a maid, Friking in the checquer'd fhade. a great deal of mirth and laughter, but no indications of that beaft There was lv fpirit of intoxication and rior which I have wineffe in many English vilbefore I arrived at Delft, where I lanI was con lages on Wake Sundays. Night came on a magnificent inn called the ded about eight o'clock ducted to Stadts Doele, where I fat down to a grand fupper, well cooked, followed by other fruit, which, with the addition of an elegant defert of grapes, peaches, and fome excellent punch, and a pipe of moft fragrant tobacco. coft me not fo much as you and I, friend Urban, (for let me boaft that name) have paid in our L-c-t-sh-e rambles, for a hafty chop, and a bottle of floe juice. After fupper a well-dreffed Frenchified looking man entered the room, with many bows and fcrapes, and defired that I would write down my name, profeffion, and place of refidence, to be fent to the Maifon de Ville. I, taking him for an officer of the police, offered him a chair, which he with much obfequious ceremony declined; and upon renewing my intreaty that he would be pleafed to fit down while I filled up the blanks of a paper which he had put into my hands, he begged to be excufed, adding, that he was only the maitre d'hotel, in other I had a words, my Loft. The landlady was a civil good-natured woman, with a conftant imile on her countenance. very good bed at this houfe; all about me was as quiet as if I had been in a fill private family; and there was fuch an air of grandeur about the house, that inftead of being at an inn, I feemed to be lodged in the fuperb manfion of a chief burgo-mafter. Here I flept very comfortably, after feveral fatiguing days; and, left my reader fhould be induced to nod over this page, I here clofe my narrative for the prefent, with a promise of giving in my next letter an account of my adventures in the town of Delft. In the mean time 1 remain,

, &c

LEICESTRIENSIS

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