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the forgiving uncle implored compassion on imperial purple, but Odoacer, king of the his guilty nephews : the whole village had Heruli, defeated his army, and put an eud now gathered to the spot; the aflaffins to the empire. Hither alío the fon of king were delivered over to the hands of justice, Manfred was transferred from Puglia, and and fuftered the punishment due to their lingered out tedious life of miserye atrocious criine.
Along the line of the shore towards the catt The Vicar would not permit his delive- are tome batteries on the points of land, rer to leave him.--" My gratitude,” lays the bastions of the arsenal, and above it the he, “ is inexprefable. You are my friend, lofty wall of the Castle Nuovo, erected by my relation, my all. My whole life is Charles the First. Its inner gate is decorayours : you have rescued me from death; ted with a triumphal arch, raised in hoand we will never part."
nour of Alphonsus the Magnificent, a work The good man haltened to purchase the of great effect, though not perfectly correu discharge of the worthy soldier ; and they in taste and architecture. This fortress has ever after lived together. The Vicar ne- usually been the refuge of the fovereign Ver recollected his happy meeting with him, and viceroys in all civil wars and tumults, without adoring the superintending Provi- and for that reason they have long fixed dence of God; and the soldier releated from their residence near its walls. A block-house the hard fare of a military life, had the fatif- and batteries defend the mouth of the harfacìion of seeing a thousand good actions, bour, and at the eastern extremity of the that endeared to him ftill more the belt of town is the Torrione del Carmine, better inin, the virtuous Vicar of **
known by the figure it made in the rebellion
of 1647, than by its extent or military A Description of the City of Naples. strength. The caitle of St. Elmo, where I
itood to view the city, commands Naples [From Swinburne's Travels.)
in every direction, and is in reality calculaS from an advanced post, I here re- ted rather to annoy and awe the citizens, and formed an exact ideaof its general outline King Robert first saw the propriety of foras well as its particular situations. The teabe- tifying this post, and the emperor, Charles for it is scalloped into two femi-circles divi- the Fifth, reduced the old work to a reguded by a promontory, and imitating the lar pentagonal form. Arabic figure of three. The promontory • The dock-yard and magazines for the runs out from the hill of St. Elmo, fink- gallies are spacious ; the harbour where Arips ing gradually towarus the Castle del Uovo of war and merchantmen lie, rather too conwith a gentle curve. The eastern bay does fined: it is entirely the work of art, being not approach fo near to the hills as that formed by the projection of a crooked mole of Chiai, but leaves a capacious vale for first laid by Charles the Second, and after the city and suburbs, which extend very many additions completed by the present irregularly over the hills, and run up fe- king of Spain. A lofty pharos points out veral narrow dales. On this account it is the entrance of the harbour in the night, difficult to obiain the just dimenfions of but as the hill behind rises very high, these Naples. King Roger caused it to be lights art easily confounded with those of measured, and found it to be two miles the town. and fix furlongs in circumference, but it • Naples contains somo fine squares and was then only upon a footing with many large ilreets ; of the former the Largo Cafother cities of his dominions, and not the tello and Spiranto Santo are the most extenmetropolis. Another measurement was ta- five. Toledo is the principal, among the ken in 1500, which amounted to nine milcs latter, inferior to few in Europe for length in circumference. Its walls are no longer and buildings. In the heart of the city the of any real defence, and of course the streets are narrow, and, on account of the safety of Naples depends upon the force great elevation of the houses, gloomy and of its armies. To repel hostile attempts by close ; they are paved with square ftones of sea which, from its situation, maritime dark coloured lava, dug out of quarries, or powers might be tempted to make, it has rather stagnated torrents formerly vomited to the west the Cafle del Vovo, a confused by Vesuvius or the Solfatara. It is said pile of ancient buildings, and some modern that this matter must be many centuries old batteries ; the rock this fortress stands up• ere it acquirea sufficient degree of hardness on was originally called Megara, then Lu. for the purpose of paving ; but I am incliculianum, and must have been considered ned to believe it very soon becomes as comcarly as a place of itrength, for Ronnulus pact as it ever will be: paving stones are ciuguitulus, the last Roinan emperor of contracted for at two earlini a piece, and, the Weit, was shut up here in 475. His in great thoroughfares, muft be renewed iather Orestes, had invefted him with the in lets than three years.
All parts of Naples are copiously suppli- portioning out the female relations of the ed with water by an ancient aqueduct which monks; it is reported, that government has more than once overbalanced its services, intend Mortly to take upon itself the charge by affording a passage for beliegers to enter of appropriating this balance. The relics of the city : through it Belisarius introduced St Januarius form the principal boaft of the casoldiers that surprized the Gothic garrison ; thedral. The Carmine calls to mind the Alphonsus the first repeated the Itratagem bloody catastrophe of thofe royal youths with success. Many fountains retail the Conradine and Frederick of Austria, butchfupply, fome few of which are decorated in ered before its door ; whenever I travera good style.
fed that square, my heart yearned at the idea The Neapolitan architects are too la- of their premature fate, and at the deep vilh of ornament, and too frequently run diftress of Conradine's mother, who, landing into a false and barbarous talte: the edi- on the beach with her son's ransom, found fices of Rome have in general more grandeur only a lifeless trunk to redeem from the and chastity of stile, except those which fangs of his barbarous conqueror. have been executed upon the plans of Borro- the cloyster of the Carmine, Maslaniello was mini and his fcholars ; they indeed exceed murdered by the companions of his revoli, in wanton violation of propriety all the flights a victim to his want of conduct. of Gothic architecturi. Most of the chur- • The sacred edifices of Naples abound ches of Naples are crowned with cupolas ; a with fepulchral monuments of diftinguith few fender steeples break the line, and add ed personages; the chapel of the San Severo variety to the picture, but there is a want family exhibits many very extraordinary of some venerable pile to tower above the statues ; the art with which the sculptor reft; the cathedral is not sufficiently pre-emi- has surmounted the difficulty of representing nent. I scarce know a church without some human bodies wrapped up in clothes, or good paintings, but very few in which the entangled in the mehes of a net is truly architect has thewn a pure noble talte. wonderful ; but the piece of ftatuary which Two columns of a temple dedicated to the appeared in my eyes to possess the moft real Diofcuri and the city of Naples, are the only merit, is a Chrilt in the froud, by San remarkable monuments of ancient architect. Martino, a living Neapolitan artist, un. ure remaining. The portico to which they doubtedly a fine performance. belonged was overturned by an earthquake · The dwellings of the nobility are grand. in 1688 ; they stand before tlie door of a In 1997, when Morrison travelled, there church, confécreted to St. Peter and Paul, was no glass in any windows of Naples, this temple was erected by Tiberius Julius nor is it above forty years since, the use of Tarsus, and Pelago the freedman of Au- glass became common. While the Neapoligustus; the apostles, who were united in tans languished under the oppressive and their mission and martyrdom, have been almost hostile government of a viceroy, fubftituted for the twin brothers Caftor and they seem to have felt little for the honour Pollux. Santa Chari, a rich monastery of of their country; the comforts of life were noble dames, founded by king kobert, imperfectly known, and all emulation apand the place of sepulture for the royal peared dead among them ; the revival of family, has a church repaired and painted elegant arts, the introduction of numberby Conca, in fo gay and airy a ftile, that lets improvements in public and private it exhibits more of the elegance of a ball- life, the adorning of the city, and a more room than of the awful folemnity of a tem- convenient mode of furnishing their dwelple. The chancel of St. Philip Neri is lings, all date from the æra of the conqueft the besi fainple of ecclefiaftical architecture of Naples by don Carlos -- a lovereign of in Naples ; large columns of antique gra- their own then came to refide among them, nite divide it from the isles in a most majef- they felt once more that they were a nation, tic manner, though some of the usual pro- and had a glory and interests worth confultportions are not critically observed. The ing. Carthufian Convent of St. Martin, adjoin- * The royal palace, begun in 16co by ing to the castle of St. Elmoris, I believe the count of Lemos, after the design of the best fituated monafirey in Europe ; eve- Fontana, presents a very handsome front, a ry thing appertaining to it corresponds with stair-cafe in the nobleft proportions, and the fublimity of the view; immenfe ranges apartments fuitable to the rank of the inhaof buildings, a stately church, superb halls, bitants; these rooms have, however, lull and a noble collection of pictures. To some of their splendour, by the removal of Support this great establishment, and a the Farnelian collection of pictures ; those large famiiy of aicetic members, that nei- valuable paintings are now shown at Capo ther beg nor earn their livelihood, the foci- dimonte, a palace erected upon the hills to ety enjoys a inoft princely income; the overplus the north of the city by the king of Spain, of it is employed in the pernicious charity of but left unfinished,' from the difficulty of * ceding beggars, and the rational one of
procuring water; the ground upon which leave the antiquities where there are. They it stands is undermined in various and mum- would suffer so much damage and derangeberless directions; these caverns were either ment in the package, and remain for fo maleft in the original formation of the hill, ny years unopened and unclailed, that the and chiselled into shape try the hand of man, prefent generation of learned and curious or were quarries gradually extended as the persons would probably never be gratified materials were wanted for building ; with a light of them. though we are not certain in what manner they were excavated, we know that they long Character of tbe Ancient and Modern Neaserved both heathens and chriftians as repo
folitans. sitories of the dead; they furpass the catacombs of Rome in extent, but for many ages
(From tbe fame Work.) have seldonı been used for funeral purposes ; • FROM the few hints dropped by the fimilar vaults under the churches in the claific authors, we recollect that the ancient town, being more at hand, are now the usual Neapolitans were a race of Epicereans, of places of Burial. It is a custom here, on All a soft indolent turn, averse to martial exerSouls day, to throw open the charnel-houlcs, cises, passionately fond of theatrical amuselighted up with torches, and decked out with ments and music, expert in all the refined all the flowery pageantry of May-day; crowds arts that administer to the caprices of luxury, follow crowds through these vaults to behold and extravagant in their expressions and geltthe coffins, nay the bodies of their friends ures, credulous, and dupes to fuperftitions and relations ; the floors are divided into of various forts. If we make allowance for beds, like a garden, and under these heaps a quantity of northern blood which has of earth the corpses are laid in regular suc- joined the original Grecian stream by intercelsion; the place is perfectly dry, for the marriages with a medley of conquering nations, foil is rather a pounded stone than carth, and and has imparted a roughnef snot yet worn parches up the Aeth completely in a twelve- off by the mildness of the climate, we fall month ; when that period is elapsed, the find the present citizens of Naples very body is taken up, drest in a religious habit like the former inhabitants of their city. and fixed like a statue in a niche; many • Provisions are here plentiful and cheap, retain a horrid resemblance to what they therefore the lower class of people work but were when animated, and some show strong little ; their delight is to balk in the sun, marks of agony in their distorted features. and to do nothing. Persons of a middle They are much better preserved than the rank pass too much of their time in coffeeInummies of Toulouse, which pass for such houfes, and places of public resort ; few fingular curiofities.
pursue their callings with the zeal and actiThe Albergo de Poveri, intended as a re- vity we are wont to meet with in the profuge for the poor from all parts of the king, feliional men of colder countries. Gluttony dom, is an extensive hospital, but ,like moat is a much more predominant vice than ebri works planned upon a scale that strains the ety, of which instances are extremely rare. finews of the public revenue, remains un- In the female sex, the passion for finery in fin fhed.
alınost superior to all others, and notwith• The theatre of San Carlo is one of the standing any effect the genial warmth of the most capacious in the world; and when illu- climate may have on the constitution of a minated, the moft magnificent.
Neapolitan woman, I doubt whether me • The Studii is a showy edifice decorated would not nine times out of ten prefer a with ancient ftatues brought from Cuma. prelent to a lover; yet I apprehend chastity There is a plan under consideration at court, is not the characteristic virtue of this place, for removing the contents of the Mufcum more than it is of any other populous mehither from Portici, in order to place that tropolis ; that furious jealousy for which inestimable collection at a greater distance the nation was fo remarkable fome generafrom Vesuvius ; the day may otherwise tions ago, is almost eradicated; the breach come when another stream of fire inall bury of the conjugal vow sometimes occasions thefe treasures again for ages. But is Na- quarrels and assassinations among people of ples itself a place of security? Its safety de- an inferior station, but the case is rare, and pends upon the wind that blows during an rivality between lovers is more frequently eruption; if that should happen to direct productive of such scenes. the ashes to the North-West, Naples would • Education was not heretofore sufficiently be exposed to the fate of Pompeii; besides, its attended to, and youthful minds naturally foundations rest on hollow ground, and earth warm and susceptible of 'every impression, quakes may destroy the pillars that support were unfortunately, left too much without them ; were I admitted to council on the proper guides to direct them in the paths occasion, I fhould prefer a removal to Ca- of renown and useful learning. Few noble
fill more advisable to men suffered their children to frequent
fart, but think it