VISIT TO A SIBERIAN FAIR.

BY A RUSSIAN TRAVELLER.

THE TSHUKTSHI FAIR AT OSTROVNOÏE.

We started from Nishney Kolymsk on the 4th of March, 1820, in a couple of narti, drawn by excellent dogs, for the village of Ostrovnoïe, a distance of two hundred and fifty versts. My companions were the well-known pedestrian traveller, Captain Cochrane, a Cossack, and a Yakoot. The latter was acquainted with the Tshuktshi dialect, and was to act both as driver and interpreter.

The deep snow that covered the whole plain, and which had been drifted to an enormous height in those places exposed to the wind, made our first day's journey extremely fatiguing; so that we found it impossible to reach the Poverna, forty versts from Nishney Kolymsk. We spent the night in the open air, and chose a spot sheltered from the north wind by a small wood, on the edge of the ele vated bank. The weather fortunately was warm and mild for the country (my thermometer showed only eight degrees of frost), so that we spent the night comfortably enough around a good fire.

On the following morning we proceeded on our journey, and got on much better, meeting here and there with a beaten track of considerable length, for which we were indebted to those of the neighbourhood, who had preceded us to Ostrovnoïe, with their stock of merchandise, composed of fish and furs. We soon reached the Little, or Dry Aniui, and followed its course nearly due east, cutting off as often as possible the long windings made by the river. We passed many of the villages and summer settlements of the Yukagires, scattered along the banks of the river; but all were empty now-the inhabitants one and all having wandered away to the Fair of Ostrovnoïe.

On the 8th of March we reached Ostrovnoïe in safety. This place, which is honoured with the name of fortress, is situated on a small island formed by the Little Aniui, two hundred and fifty versts from Nishney Kolymsk. The fortress is nothing more than a worm-eaten paling surrounding a courtyard, which contains a few huts, pompously denominated barracks, and intended for the accommodation of the Commissary, his clerks, and his Cossacks; besides this, the place consists merely of a small dilapidated chapel, dedicated to St. Nicholas, and some twenty or thirty huts, that lie scattered about, without the slightest attempt at regularity. These huts we found as full as they could hold, but not affording accommodation for one half of those who come to visit the fair; the remainder being obliged to bivouac among the sledges, &c. The Tshuktshi were somewhat better off in their tents of rein deer skin, which they pitched upon the small islands of the Aniui, at some distance from the market-place.

We found the whole place full of life and bustle; and, though the spectacle was grotesque enough upon the whole, yet the effect was agreeable, and the picture original. The fortress and the surrounding huts had been cleared of the snow with no little trouble; nevertheless, with their flat, frozen roofs, they still looked little better than so many heaps of dirty snow. In the evening the scene was changed: nothing was then to be seen but the glimmer of the train-oil lamps

through the ice-panes of the windows; or the bivouac-fires of the strangers who had arrived to visit the fair, and who now lay encamped under the canopy of heaven; or the column of smoke, intermingled with sparks, issuing from the tents of the Tshuktshi. Over this scene a yellow, red, or whitish green, aurora borealis, cast its beams in every-varying form along the horizon. All these negative illuminations, to which, every now and then, was joined the distant sound of a Shamaun's tambourine, produced a really magical effect, to which one should have been tempted to listen with pleasure, were it not for the severity of the cold, and the discordant chorus raised every now and then, at regular intervals, by some hundreds of howling dogs, that effectually prevented any kind of refined or contemplative indulgence.

Over the entrance to the so-called fortress there stands what was formerly a turret, but which now performs no other office than to do the honours of the house, by inclining its head respectfully to every one that passes by. Within resides the Commissary, who makes an annual visit, with a few clerks and Cossacks, to collect the tribute, to exercise a kind of police superintendence, and to afford protection to the Russian merchants, in case of a hostile manifestation on the part of the Tshuktshi. Fortunately no occurrence of the kind has ever taken place; otherwise the wooden enclosure round the fortress, or the Commandant with his little ill-armed garrison, would be able to offer little resistance to so numerous a body of stout savages as compose the Tshuktshi caravan at Ostrovnoïe. In addition to the garrison, the fortress contains the priest from Nishney Kolymsk, who yearly visits the fair, bringing with him his saints and his church paraphernalia, and performing mass daily during his stay.

One day after us the Russian merchants arrived, with one hundred and twenty-five well-laden pack-horses. The Tshuktshi had been here for some time; they had located themselves in nine different encampments among the islands formed by the river, and were quite at home. Their migration to this place is a remarkable fact. They cross Behring's Strait, and obtain, by barter from the North Americans, furs and sea-horse tusks; thence and from the extreme eastern extremity of Asia, they arrive with their wives, children, household furniture, arms, tents, and sledges.* Upon their way they visit two other places of barter, Anadyrsk and Kamennoïe; and, for the sake of their reindeer, they are obliged to make a great round through the moss-heath.† They consequently spend five or six months upon a journey, which in a straight line is not more than one thousand versts. They set off generally in August, and arrive in Ostrovnoïe about the end of January, or beginning of February, whence they start again after an interval of eight or ten days. The chief part of their lives is accordingly spent in travelling, but they make themselves at home wherever they come; for their customary dwelling, the reindeer-skin tent, with all its domestic equipments, is their inseparable companion in all their wanderings. One of these caravans of human snails, including women and children, consists, in general, of about three hundred, of whom one hundred to one hundred and fifty are armed men.

* Each sledge is usually drawn by two reindeer.

As it happens, nevertheless, that they have often to pass over large naked tracts of land, without coming to any pasturage, a number of sledges laden with moss usually follow the caravan to supply the reindeer with food.

Including the visit to America, and other preliminary arrangements, the journey to the fair occupies a party of Tshuktshi more than a year. When crossing Behring's Strait, they make use of a kind of leathern boats or baidares; and the slender construction of these little vessels, together with the total ignorance of navigation on the part of the adventurous crews, render the passage one of considerable danger. On their journey overland they usually halt at the Tshaun Bay, exchange their tired reindeer for fresh ones, and fetch their own again on their return.

In their trade with the Americans, as well as with the Russians, the Tshuktshi are in reality only carriers; for they embark no capital of their own, nor, with the exception of reindeer-skins, and a few other trifles, do they offer for sale any article the produce of their own industry. From the Kargauls, and other inhabitants of the north-western coast of America, they purchase sea-horse tusks and furs, and pay for them with tobacco, ironware, glass beads, &c. which they obtain from the Russians, in exchange for the former description of mer chandise. In this commerce all the parties concerned are great gain. ers. For half a pood of tobacco the Tshuktshi will obtain from the Americans a parcel of skins, for which the Russians cheerfully give two poods of the same tobacco; the Russian pays for these two poods of tobacco at most one hundred and sixty rubles, and he obtains for them a parcel of skins, which he is sure to dispose of for at least two hundred and sixty rubles.

The furs brought for sale by the Tshuktshi consist chiefly of black and silver-grey foxes, white or arctic foxes, lynxes, wolverenes, river. otters, beavers, and a remarkably beautiful kind of marten, never met with in Siberia, and very nearly approaching the sable in colour, as well as in the quality of the hair. In addition to these, they bring with them bear-skins, sea-horse leather, and the tusks of the same animal, the latter in very great quantities. All these articles they purchase from the Americans. The only articles of their own manu facture are sledge-runners of whale ribs, various articles of wearing apparel made of reindeer skins, and a kind of portmanteau of sealskin, being nothing more than the entire skin of the animal, with a small opening in the belly through which the flesh and bones have been taken out, and the interior very neatly tanned.

The goods brought by the Russian merchants are precisely calcu lated for the wants and tastes of the Tshuktshi. The great article is tobacco in addition to this, various iron tools, &c. such as kettles, axes, knives, fire-boxes, needles, copper, tin, and wooden vessels; and a number of coloured glass beads for the women. Fain would the Russian traders add brandy to the list of their commodities; but there exists a most wise and benevolent prohibition on this subject, which effectually prevents the open sale of spirits. A small quantity, however, still finds its way to the fair, and most extrava gant prices are given for it by the Tshuktshi, who call it the Maddening Water.. Their passion for spirits is so great that when a Tshuktshi has tasted one glass, he will give unhesitatingly a fine black fox-skin, worth two hundred and fifty rubles, for a few bottles of wretched corn-brandy, that had been purchased at Yakutsk for a few rubles. The Russian merchants bring likewise tea, sugar, cloths, &c. for those of their own countrymen who visit the fair.

In addition to the Russians and Tshuktshi, the fair is visited by many of the native tribes within a circuit of a thousand or fifteen hun

dred versts,* some on narti, and others on horseback. They bring with them a number of articles of their own manufacture, particularly a great quantity of sledge-runners, which they barter away advantageously to the Tshuktshi for furs. The variety of the cos tumes and vehicles of these tribes contributes not a little to give animation and interest to the scene.

On the 10th of February, the Russian merchants and the chiefs of the Tshuktshi assembled at the Commissary's, to hear certain rules and regulations respecting the fair. This, however, was a mere matter of form; the real business being to fix certain prices for their respective goods. This is a necessary precaution; for, without it, the mad competition of the Russian traders would lead them to outbid one another, and the consequence would be the depreciation of the Russian merchandise. After some discussion, dispute, and screaming, it was at last settled that two poods of Circassian tobacco should pass current for sixteen fox and twenty marten skins. According to this standard the prices of all the other articles were fixed. Whoever should sell anything at a lower price was to pay a fine, and lose the right for that year of carrying on any dealings in the fair.

After the Commissary had levied from the Tshuktshi a trifling toll, on account of government, a solemn mass was performed in the chapel on the morning of the 11th, followed by a prayer soliciting success to trade,† and immediately afterwards a flag was drawn up, as a sig. nal for opening the fair. The Tshuktshi, armed with spears, bows, and arrows, then put themselves in motion, approached in an orderly and solemn procession, and arranged the sledges containing their merchandise in a semicircle in front of the Commissary's. The Russians and the other visiters to the fair arrayed themselves on the opposite. side, and all awaited with impatience the sound of the bell, before which the barter was not permitted to commence. The first stroke appeared to act like electricity on the Russian side of the fair. Old and young, men and women, all rushed helter-skelter, one over the other to the Tshuktshi sledges. Every one was anxious to be the first, to snatch up the best lots, and dispose of his own goods to the best advantage, with which he was laden in the most fantastic manner. The Russians were by far the most eager and animated. Dragging a heavy sack of tobacco with one hand, a couple of iron pots or kettles with the other, with axes, knives, wooden and horn tobacco-pipes, glass beads, &c., suspended from their girdles, and over their shoulders, these ambulatory booths were running at full speed from one sledge to another puffing their various commodities in a kind of lingua franca that passed current at the fair, composed of a strange mixture of Russian, Yakootish, and Tshuktshish. The screaming, the crowding, and the pushing baffle all attempts at description. Here one tumbling down in the snow, and fifty or a hundred of his rivals running over him; in the confusion he loses cap and gloves, and perhaps finds himself minus a brace of teeth; still the excitement of trade will not allow him to pause; quickly he is on his legs again, running about with bare head and hands, in spite of thirty degrees of frost, anxious appa

The standard of measurement is here somewhat large; but it must be remem. bered that the district of Kolymsk extends over above forty-four thousand five hun dred square versts.

I very much regretted that the companion to this ceremony, the incantation of the Tshuktshi Shamauns, likewise intended to procure for them a fortunate issue to the fair, had taken place the day before my arrival.

rently to atone for lost time by redoubled activity. The extraordinary activity of the Russians forms a singular contrast to the serious demeanour and imperturbable tranquillity of the Tshuktshi, who stand quietly by the side of their sledges, and either answer nothing to the inexhaustible eloquence of their antagonists, or if they do vouchsafe a reply, it is only by a syllable or two. It is only when the offer appears perfectly acceptable that they very coolly take possession of the article offered them, and hand over theirs in return. This discreet behaviour, quite characteristic of the Tshuktshi, gives them an immense advantage over the Russians, who, excited by the spirit of ri valry, quite forget the tariff of prices, frequently offer two poods of tobacco for one, and often, instead of a sable, accept a marten, or some other skin of inferior value. It is remarkable to observe how exactly the Tshuktshi, who make no use of weights, can tell by the mere handling of a bag whether it contain the stipulated quantity. If there be a pound or two wanting in a pood, they detect the deficiency immediately.

In about three days all the merchandise at the fair usually changes hands. The Tshuktshi thereupon leisurely depart; the Russians and the other visiters likewise bid farewell to the place; and in a few days afterwards this flourishing emporium of trade is left without a single human creature. And should a drift of snow of more than common weight pass that way, the chances are that the flag-staff on the fortress will be the only visible object by which it will be possible in the ensuing year to discover the buried greatness of Ostrovnoïe.

This fair is of much more importance than might be supposed, when the brief duration and the insignificant toll paid by the Tshuktshi is considered. The merchandise bartered away averages two hundred thousand rubles every year. The intercourse to which this fair has led has taught the Tshuktshi the use of many objects of which formerly they had no knowledge, but which have now become articles of necessity to them: particularly tobacco and iron. Strong as their objection is to everything in the shape of a tribute, which they consider as an acknowledgment of subjection, they are still quite willing to purchase the permission of dealing for those articles with the Russians, by the payment of the market toll already alluded to. The toll amounted this year only to thirty foxes' skins, of which one was paid by each of the principal traders. No doubt the Tshuktshi might easily be brought to pay the tribute, and to submit themselves formally to the Russian government, if the commissaries knew how to gain their confidence and respect. The cowardice and inconsistency of these officers, and their mean avarice, lead them to numberless acts of baseness and imbecility, by which they entirely forfeit the respect of the Tshuktshi, who, in spite of their want of polish, have certainly a very quick and correct apprehension of right and wrong.

I took advantage of the first meeting at the fortress to have some discourse with a few of the principal Tshuktshi chiefs on the subject of our intended journey and its motives. The principal persons at this conference were, Makamok and Loit, from the Bay of St. Lawrence; Valetka, whose numerous reindeer feed to the east of Cape Shelagskoi; and Evrashka, whose tribe lead a romantic life about the Tshaun Bay. After they had received rich presents of tobacco, I acquainted them that we had been commissioned by the Emperor to examine the Arctic Ocean, and its shores, in order to ascertain whether, and in what manner, that part of it might best be navigated, and the articles of