and confusion of landing; but, even while in the very act of seeing with her own eyes to the safety of the portmanteau which contained her husband's flannel waistcoats, Mrs. Higgs turned round to Emily to say, "We shall be monstrous glad to see you in Fitzroy Square." What is the popularity of a patriot compared to that of a listener?

At Calais they landed and spent the nightEmily, at least, passed it half awake: she was too young, and had led too unvaried a life, not to feel in its utmost extent the excitement of arrival in a foreign country, a strange language, another clime, a complete change of daily habits -it was opening a new leaf in the book of life.

CHAPTER XVIII.

"I am a great friend to travelling: it enlarges the mind, suggests new ideas, removes prejudices, and sharpens the appetite."

Narrative of a Journey from Hampstead to Hendon.

WE travel for many acquirements - health, information, amusement, notoriety, &c. &c. The advantages of each of these acquisitions have been eloquently set forth from the days of Ulysses, who travelled to seek his native land, to those of the members of the club who travel to seek any thing else. But one of its enjoyments has never received its full share of credit-albeit the staple of them all we mean the good appetite it invariably produces. What are the periods on which the traveller dwells with the most satisfaction-the events he recalls with most dramatic effect-the incidents which at once arrest the attention of his hearers? Why -"That delicious breakfast in the Swiss valley. We had travelled some miles before eight o'clock,

when we stopped at one of the châlets; we had coffee of our own; the peasant girl put the whitest of cloths on a little table in the open window, from the vine of which we picked the finest bunches of grapes ever seen the dew was yet on the fruit. They gave us some such eggs, cream like a custard, and a Neufchâtel cheese; some brown, but such sweet bread. We never enjoyed a meal so much." Or else it is" Do you remember that night when we stopped at the little village at the foot of the Appenines - cold, wet, hungry, and quarrelsome. In less than ten minutes our dark-eyed hostess had such a blazing wood fire on the hearth by the by, what a delicious odour the young green pine-branches give in burning! Half an hour saw us seated at a round table drawn close to the fire, with the very best of tempers and appetites. We had prevailed on the pretty Ninetta to forget in our favour the national predilection for oil and garlic. Our turkey was broiled, as our chestnuts were roasted, by the wood ashes; and a flask of such fine wine the vineyard whence it came must have been summer's especial favourite."

I know a traveller who carried these pleasures of memory to the utmost. Instead of a

journal or a diary, he kept a regular entry of the bills of fare at the different inns. Our travellers passed hastily through France, talked about Rousseau, and read Childe Harold on the banks of the Lake of Geneva. Emily was enchanted with the costume of the peasantry; and Lady Mandeville admitted it would be pretty in a fancy ball, but cautioned her against acquiring a taste for the picturesque in dress.

For the Swiss girls to produce a good effect, they must be seen at a distance. The small waist, the slender ancle and diminutive feet, are missed sadly in the proportions, somewhat ponderous for our ideas of grace, which these mountain nymphs possess. Your pictures of costume are rather corrected than correct. People and places are usually flattered in their portraits. One great reason why we believe so devoutly in the beauty of Italy, is that we chiefly know it from plates. I remember seeing an architectural view—on one side stood a noble old house, the spire and roof of a church, a mass of fine-looking buildings, a distant view of a colonnade, and a broad open space with an equestrian statue. I did not at first believe that it could be Charing Cross whose effect was so imposing; and it was not till North

umberland House and St. Martin's Church were identified, that my confession was fairly extorted, of how little justice one does to the beauty of London.

The Simplon, Napoleon's magnificent monument, was next passed. They stopped at the most memorable places, and at last arrived at Rome, where a princess vacated her palace for their accommodation and so many louis-d'or a-month. Rome, once the mistress, is now the caravanseray of the world. Two Italian Counts made Emily an offer; and so would a Russian Prince, only he employed a French Marquess to translate his sentiments, who translated so well that he made them his own; a negative, therefore, served a double purpose.

Their principal visitor was a young Englishman, a cousin of Lady Mandeville's, who, having nothing else to do with his time, kindly bestowed much of it on them. With her ladyship he was not very popular when any one more interesting was by; she said he was indolent, and wanted sentiment. With Lord Mandeville he was a great favourite; and, though his lordship did not pique himself upon it, he was no bad judge of character.

Cecil Spenser had the usual qualities of most