is rather a rough way, and the visitor may perchance get wet feet; but if he confine himself to what he can see from the crags above, he will miss his only chance of seeing some scenery seldom to be matched for a grandeur nearly allied to sublimity. A great beauty in these mountain-streams is, that a few yards will present you with an almost entire change of landscape; here it is remarkably the case one moment bare rude rock towers up against the deep blue sky, the water dashes along in a shallow brawling stream, while the broken outline of a mountain-pile bounds the distance; the next we are shut in by light and graceful trees, the varying hues of the birch, ash, and hazel blending in exquisite harmony, and imaging themselves in a still pool, over whose surface a crowd of merry insects ceaselessly gambol, their gentle hum but adding to the deep feeling of quietude. Here, in this little space of some half a mile perhaps, might the painter find almost a month's employment in making studies of rock and foliage mingling their various tints with the underwood and ever-changing water. But we have lingered too long. Retracing our steps, we again proceed towards our journey's end. Though our river, after we have passed the Seathwaite brook, flows along a more level country, and is unmarked by any of the grander or more striking features on which we have hitherto dwelt, the way is very beautiful. Through delicious meads 66 The murmuring stream its winding water leads;" light foliage with flowers of every hue grace its banks; the rugged features of the crags have become softened by distance; the fields are alive with cattle; and grey cottages chequer every spot of rising ground;-we have exchanged our Salvatorlike scenery for such as our own Hofland most delighted in. The next place of any consequence, after leaving Seathwaite, is Ulpha (pronounced Oopha by the dalesmen). Before reaching it we come upon a singular assemblage of rocks that might have suggested the idea of Wordsworth's twelfth sonnet, though we believe it is intended to describe those by Seathwaite, of which we have already spoken. These are very singular: they project but little above the surface of the water, but are riven into the most fanciful forms, over and through and between which the river makes its way in a number of sparkling waterbreaks of varied sizes and height. We point the visitor's attention to this spot, not only for its singularity, but that he may also notice the rock itself. A fine red porphyritic dyke here crosses the channel of the river, contrasting finely with the light limestone with which it is in conjunction; it is, of course, owing to the greater hardness of this dyke that it projects so much above the level of the neighbouring rock, and that the irregular appearance here spoken of is produced.* The whole course of the river, from Seathwaite to Ulpha, is exceedingly picturesque; the views are more open and extended than heretofore, and the distant mountains are of pleasing, often graceful forms, both alone and in combination: Broughton Tower, too, as seen in many places, is a pleasing addition to the landscape. As * We may mention that, though we have not referred to the geological features of our route, there is much in it to interest the geologist; nor need the botanist fear that he will lack employment. we approach Ulpha, its chapel forms an interesting landmark. Wordsworth says: "The kirk of Ulpha to the pilgrim's eye Its shining forehead through the peaceful rent It is situated on a high bank, and commands a fine view. We might well wander awhile in the churchyard, "soothed by the unseen river's gentle roar, from pastoral graves extracting thoughts divine.' Walker was offered the curacy of Ulpha, but declined holding it along with his own, lest it should be attributed to covetousness in him, his own living at that time (1755) being worth 157. per annum ! At Ulpha there is a public-house (known as Ulpha Kirk-house), in which the traveller will meet with better accommodation than at Seathwaite, but the scenery is not so fine, nor does it divide the distance so well. From Ulpha the river widens, but becomes tamer and less romantic; it will, indeed, hardly repay the trouble of following its windings, especially as the ground on each side is enclosed. It must, however, be joined again by Broughton or sooner, for now expands' Is opened round him: hamlets, towers, and towns, Sonnet XXXII. Our great guide here likens him to 66 Sovereign Thames, but, it must be confessed, it requires all fancy's help to sustain the resemblance. Still it is a noble sight, when the full tide has laid the whole stretch of sand, a mile and a half across, under water, to gaze from some elevated spot over it as it mingles its waters with the mighty ocean, the setting sun meantime blending all into a glow of golden splendour, while thousands of waterfowl, darting in every direction with the swiftness almost of the lightning, and baffling the keenest eye to follow their rapid evolutions, impart an air of liveliness to a scene that might else perhaps be too sombre from its uniformity. THE MOLE, SURREY. S contrast is one of the charms of the picturesque, we turn from the mountain stream of the north to a quiet pastoral river, not far from the busiest spot in the world. There is so much that is beautiful in our home counties, that we shall find sufficient to re ward us even in their placid scenery. Mountains, on whose barren breast The lab'ring clouds do often rest," True, nor mountain-torrents, nor rushing waterfalls, nor many other such mighty things; but there are |