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NATURAL PHENOMENA.

HELM-WIND.-HELM-BAR. The heights of Cross Fell are supposed to affect the weather in a manner somewhat similar to what the inhabitants of the Malabar and Coromandel coasts experience; and what are called in this country (Cumberland) Shedding-winds generally blow on the contrary signs of Cross-Fell, from opposite quarters to the Helm-winds; and the storms, which rake the country on one side of the mountain, seldom affect the other. Upon the summit of this lofty ridge of mountains there frequently hangs a vast volume of clouds, in a sullen and drowsy state, having little movement; this heavy collection of vapours often extends several miles in length, and dips itself from the summit, half way down to the base of those eminences; and frequently at the same time the other mountains in view are clear of mist and show no signs of rain. This helm, or cloud, exhibits an awful and solemn appearance, tinged with white by the sun's rays that strike the upper part, and spreads a gloom below over the inferior parts of the mountain, like the shadows of night. When this collection of vapour first begins to gather on the hills, there is to be observed hanging about it a black strip of cloud, continually flying off, and fed from the white part which is the real helm ; this strip is called the helm-bar, as during its appearance the winds are thought to be resisted by it; for on its

dispersion they rage vehemently upon the vallies beneath. The direction of the helm-bar is parallel to that part of the main cloud or collection of vapour, that is tinged with white by being struck with the sun's rays; the bar appears in continual agitation, as boiling, or struggling with contrary blasts; whilst the helm all this time keeps a motionless station. When the bar is dispersed, the winds that issue from the helm are sometimes extremely violent; but that force seems to be in proportion to the real current of the winds, which blow at a distance from the mountains, and which are frequently in a contrary direction, and then the helm-wind does not extend above two or three miles without these impediments it seldom sweeps over a larger track than twelve miles, perhaps from the mere resistance of the lower atmosphere. It is remarkable that at the base of the mountain the blasts are much less violent than in the middle region; and yet the hurricane is sometimes impetuous even there, bearing every thing before it, when at the distance of a few miles there is a dead calm and a sunny sky. The spring is most favourable to this phenomenon; the helm-wind will sometimes blow for a fortnight 'till the air in the lower regions, warmed before by the influence of the sun, is thereby rendered piercing cold.*

Ritson's account of this phenomenon is yet more graphic and interesting.†

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"As I am now to speak of the Helm-wind, it may cessary for the sake of those readers, who have not seen any thing of the kind, to premise that Cross-Fells is one continued ridge, stretching without any branches, or even subject to mountains, except two or three conical hills

*

Hutchinson's Cumberland, vol. i. p. 266.

In the Introduction to A SURVEY OF THE LAKES, by James Clarke. folio. London, 1787.

called Pikes, from the N.N.W. to the S.S.E. from the neighbourhood of Gillsland almost to Kirkby-Steven, that is above 40 miles. Its direction is nearly in a right line, and the height of its different parts not very unequal; but is in general such that some of its more eminent parts are exceeded in altitude by few hills in Britain, and perhaps not by any in England. As it rises in the interior part of the country, it has in some degree an effect on the weather on its different sides similar to that which is experienced by the inhabitants of the Malabar and Coromandel coasts, occasioned by the mountainous range that is extended from Cape Comorin along the peninsula of Indus; for what are called SHEDDING WINDS generally blow on the contrary sides of this mountain from opposite quarters; also the rains, which come from the Atlantic, and those which drive from the Gerinan Ocean, seldom extend with any great power beyond its summits, being sometimes entirely spent and exhausted upon them; SO that Northumberland and the corresponding parts of Cumberland, however similar in many respects, may in this be considered as different climates.

"Upon the upper part of this lofty ridge often rests, in dry and sunny weather, a prodigious wreath of clouds, involving its whole extent, and reaching sometimes more and sometimes less than half way from its summit to its base; at this time the other mountains in different quarters are for the most part clear of mist, nor are there any signs of rain. This mighty collection of vapour exhibits an appearance uncommonly grand and solemn; whether we regard its different shades descending from that gleaming whiteness, with which the sun tinges the volumes of its upper surface, to that indiscriminate gloominess which to the distant spectator renders the plains beneath almost invisible; or the tranquillity which it preserves amidst the commotions issuing from it, and the

currents of air, which must be supposed to prevail in the higher regions of the atmosphere. Or again, if we consider its vast bulk, which notwithstanding still represents the form of the mountain, (corresponding with its elevations and depressions) so that the boldest head of CrossFell, which is somewhat to the northward of the middle part of its range, is still distinguishable even in its Helm; for such is the name of that heap of vapour from whence the wind, of which we are treating, issues. When this heap first gathers upon the hill, there is seen above it a black streak of cloud continually flying off, and continually fed from the white one, which is called the real Helm; this is called the Helm-bar, from its being supposed to bar or obstruct the winds that burst forth upon the vallies beneath as soon as it wholly vanishes; its direction is parallel to that of the white cloud, and it seems in continual motion as if boiling, or at least agitated by a violent wind; and indeed the wind, which really does follow its removal, is sometimes prodigiously violent, varying with respect to the extent of territory which it affects in proportion to the force and direction of what I shall here call the Real Winds. Sometimes when these are its direct antagonists, and in full force, it does not reach farther than two or three miles; nor do I know that even without such impediment it ever extends farther than thirteen or fourteen, being interrupted in its progress by the vis inertia of the air at large, or by some cause arising from the impulse of contrary currents. However, though it always bears a certain proportion to the force and direction of the real winds, its own intrinsic force is not always equal, nor is it found so even at the foot of the hill, where, on account of the shortness of its course, the action of contrary currents or the resistance of the air can not be supposed to have had any material effect in changing the degree of its power, or of interrupting its progress. It may, however,

be remembered as a truth, that near the base of the mountain it is at times excessively strong, bearing almost every thing before it, though at a distance of a very few miles not felt at all.

"Such is the Helm-Wind generated in that enormous cloud, which like a helmet covers the summit of Cross Fell. It is here particularly favoured by circumstances; for on one side there is a plain of above thirty miles in breadth in some places, and on the other no hills to rival that from whence it comes. This wind is not much taken notice of in natural history; yet the Dutch by the iron chains, with which they are obliged to moor their ships at the Cape of Good Hope, bear ample testimony to the fury of such an one. It hath been met with by late voyagers in the South Seas; it is said to have been felt in the straits of Gibraltar; and I doubt not but mariners and travellers have found it in many other places, though they may not have observed it with care, or may have given it different names. I apprehend that the landbreeze in the West Indies, though less violent and more regular, is similar to it; and I doubt not that there may be a helm-wind from almost every hill covered with a cloud in certain kinds of weather, though the resistance of similar winds from neighbouring hills may prevent its being taken notice of.

"It may be remarked of this wind, that it generally blows from Cross Fell longest in the spring, when the sun has somewhat warmed the air beneath, and does not cease till it has effectually cooled it. Thus it sometimes continues for a fortnight or three weeks, which I consider as a peculiarity of the Helm-wind of Cross-Fell."

"THE BOTTOM-WIND* has its name from being supposed formerly by the country people to arise from the bottom of those lakes which are situated amongst mountains, for

* This is extracted from the same author.