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laid under water so as to inundate approaching foes; while the defenders of the fort could "behold from the safe shore their floating carcases and broken chariotwheels." Certainly nowhere else have nature and art formed such an entente cordiale to make a place impregnable.

San Roque was built by the Spaniards after the capture of Gibraltar; as a proper station, I suppose, whence they might command a fine view of the place they could not retake--and there sit down and weep, remembering Zion. Many Gibraltar families quarter here in summer to escape the heat and fevers of the Rock. And as the English occupy no place they do not improve, that part of San Roque appropriated to them has the neat, tidy, comfortable look found nowhere save among the English. The houses were painted— there is glass in the windows, and ruddy children gambol about. The road to the Lines is macadamized, and kept in good repair at English expense.

One, however, soon tires of Gibraltar. It is all seen in a day, and no variety of incident breaks in upon its monotony. Your ears are bored with the jargon and gibberish every where around you-your eye soon becomes satiated with sights which, ceasing to be novel, cease to be interesting-you reluct to enter the gates every night at sunset, and you long for more freedom of action and a less confined routine. It is only intended as a stopping-place, a relay-house for the people of Europe, Asia, and Africa, whom affairs excite to travel, or ennui kills at home. The cuisine at the Club House I found good: the beef I particularly affected, having found none estimable in Spain-for "beef is rare within those oxless towns"-nor was fish or game wanting. However, any place is dull to him. who wants occupation; and unless one belongs to the

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EAGERNESS FOR THE BULL-FIGHT.

garrison, or is engaged in commercial pursuits, Gibraltar is not be recommended for a long sojourn.

As Cuchares was to appear the coming week at Ronda, where crowds were expected from all the four kingdoms of Andalusia, I took a more willing leave of the Rock than doubtless I otherwise had done. The expectation of that event perhaps dulled my impressions of Gibraltar. I had, indeed, become so wedded to this funcion, that I could have foregone any thing but a duty on its account. On these occasions you see all motley Andalusia; and one who seeks to study manners and character rather than listlessly to view scenes and sights, can not do better than frequent these gatherings.

CHAPTER XXVI.

START FOR RONDA-MY COSTUME AND COMPANION-GANCIU-STORY OF PEHE

RONDA.

To go to Ronda a guide was necessary. I did not like any of the profession I saw at Gibraltar, they were "'Ebrew Jews," and so I took up with a retired bandit. He had never been guilty, I was told, of any thing disgraceful in his former métier-had never betrayed a confederate-committed a gratuitous cruelty—or appropriated more than his share of plunder. As he knew that I was to accompany him without more funds than a few Napoleons-the rest of my available finances having been sent forward in advance, and that he was to receive nothing until my arrival at Ronda, what with his previously good character I felt very much at ease, the more particularly as the horses were his, and therefore safe from his otherwise perhaps unmastered cupidity. The penniless traveler, says the Roman poet, sings in the very presence of robbers, and I started with my friend in gay spirits.

I indued the majo dress, which I had bespoken in Cadiz: a short jacket of olive cloth, with sleeves slashed with crimson velvet, and with pendant tassels of silver, to be thrown over the shoulder rather than worn; breeches of the same material, decorated with double rows of silver buttons from waist to knee; a chaléco, or waistcoat of broadcloth, also resplendent with silver;

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A STUNNING COSTUME.

an embroidered shirt with collar à la Byron falling over a neck-tie of stunning colors; a faja, or sash of richest silk and more variegated than Joseph's garment; bottinas, or spatterdashes of the finest russet-leather, open on the outside, to show the gaudy hose, and shoes "to match;" two handkerchiefs, be it said, dangling from each pocket of the jacket-such was my costume; with this, like Sir Hudibras,

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If I met any acquaintances at Ronda, I doubted, if I would be recognized, and if I was, what harm? Why not in Andalusia dress like the Andalusians? "Esta usted tambien de nosotros-You are also one of us”— said my companion, as I was mounting my horse to start.

On the neutral ground we passed a race-course and cricket-ground, which the English officers have established to break the dull uniformity of garrison-life, and to bring old England fresher and nearer to them. "Cosas de los Ingleses," said Josè. "A cada necio agrada su porrada-every fool likes his own folly." From this I inferred my attendant either disliked these games, or those who had instituted them.

Turning partially round to take a farewell of this monster-fortress, as I beheld in each yawning aperture the ever-loaded instrument of death, I involuntarily quickened my pace-a gun might go off, it might reach me in its range, and I might be killed. Who would wish to trust life to even such remote possibility? 66 ? No quiere usted los cuernos del toro," said Josè, “ni yo tampeco-you do not like the horns of the bull, nor I either."

A FORTUNE-TELLER.

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At San Roque, where we stopped to give the horses water and Josè una copita de aguardiente, we fell in with a gipsy party bound like us for Ronda. There

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were half a dozen girls among them. The prettiest, bright-eyed, dark-haired, olive-colored, accosted me and asked me to let her tell my fortune. I assented though Josè remonstrated, and gave her my hand, which she wisely studied, muttering all the while the usual gibberish. She first looked at me, and catching my eye, gave a significant glance at Josè: "There is blood upon your path," she said, "antes que te cases,

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