THE FORT AND SUBURBS.

431

dazzling appearance, the majority are of plainer materials, and many falling to decay.

Sir Charles's limited stay at Delhi prevented his seeing more of the city than came within the compass of one morning's ride. On leaving the jumma musjid, he proceeded through several streets, despicably poor, and thinly inhabited. Two or three of a larger size seemed more populous, were of considerable breadth, and occupied by the aqueduct already mentioned in the centre, now in a state of dilapidation.

The fort of Delhi has more the appearance of an ornamented wall, constructed round a royal residence, than a fortification against an enemy. To such an extreme has this expensive taste been carried, that all the towers erected at stated distances along the walls of the fortress, are covered with domes of white marble, richly ornamented with gold.

In the suburbs are the celebrated mausoleums. That of Humaioon is truly magnificent, and occupies a large space; the centre dome is uncommonly bold, and admirably formed; the lower part divided into numerous sepulchral chambers, each containing the tomb of some relation of the royal line, whose body is deposited beneath the platform. These chambers, connected with each other, penetrate the whole extent, and were individually appropriated to a descendant of the house of Timur. These are too numerous to particularise; but among them is the chamber of Allum Geer Saunee, father of Shah Aalum the present emperor; another containing the remains of his eldest son; a third of his sister. The tombs placed over the bodies are all of plain

white marble chunam, the exterior sepulchres of white marble.

The mausoleum of Khan Khannah, or Lord of Lords, the vizier of Humaioon, stands near the sepulchre of his royal master. This edifice is said to be characteristic of its founder, constructed at a great expense without taste or elegance, and such was the extraordinary dissipation and extravagance of Khan Khannah as to have become proverbial. He was originally a slave named Phaheem, Khan Khannah being his honorary title, which gave occasion to this proverb, peculiarly expressive in the Persian language; "what Khan Khannah amasses, Phaheem squanders." The stories related of his boundless profusion are not less numerous than wonderful.

Within the compass of half a mile are several other large structures, sacred to the memory of Mogul ameers or nobles, and peers, or holy men, some of elegant proportion. One mausoleum, beautiful in appearance, and delightful in situation, at three miles distance, containing the remains of Munsure Ally Khan, grandfather of Asuph ul Dowlah, is executed with great taste. On that side of the city which is washed by the Jumna, are a number of beautiful palaces and pavilions, situated in the midst of verdant groves; their gilded domes, and varied style of architecture, reflected in the clear stream gliding gently below the walls. The Jumna at Delhi is so extremely narrow, and the stream of so little depth, that the washermen cross it in many places not higher than their middle. The opposite country is so extremely low, that in the rainy season it must be enirely under water.

RETURN TO SINDIA'S CAMP.

433

The next evening (13th of June) the travellers set off on their return to Sindia's camp, and the object of Sir Charles Malet's mission to Mhadajee Sindia having been accomplished by the conciliation of that chieftain to the establishment of his embassy at the court of Poonah, he received orders early in July to proceed to Calcutta, there to receive the requisite powers and instructions from the Governor-General, Sir John Macpherson, who had succeeded Mr. Hastings since the commencement of the embassy, for carrying the negociations into effect. He left Agra on the 21st of July, to cross the Doaub, the Mesopotamia of India, for Caunpore, the nearest military station belonging to the East India Company under the Bengal government.

434

LEAVE AGRA.

CHAPTER XV.

Departure of the Embassy from Agra for Calcutta-Ferozabad― Shakuabad-Jesswant-Nugghur-Ettaya-Akberpore-Caunpore-Dreadful Ferocity of the Wolves-Embark for CalcuttaAllahabad Junction of the Jumna and Ganges-Chunar-Ramnaghur-Benares-Buxar-Chuprah-Dinapore - Banquepore -Patna - Snowy Mountains-Hot Wells-Mongheer-Bhangulpore-Colgong — Rajemahl- Jumma Musjid― Bhaugretty River-Cossimbazar-Moorsheabad-Lake of Pearls-PalaceCurious Dwarf Horses-Desserah-A Hindoo Festival-Plassey --Quantity of Game destroyed on a Shooting Party-Baugretty and Jellinghy Rivers-Drowning of dying Hindoos-Dandies, or Boatmen on the Ganges-Their Mode of Life-Chinsura Chandernagore, Serampore-Arrival at Calcutta.

THE journal of Mr. Cruso thus continues :-Sir Charles Malet, having made every arrangement necessary for our journey to Caunpore, we left Agra in the afternoon of the 21st of July, and made our first stage to Hemetpore, six coss distant. The country was neither interesting nor well cultivated; about half-way we crossed a deep narrow river, provided with a ferry-boat at the pass, and on arriving at Hemetpore, put up for the night under a large dome in the centre of a tank, and found it a comfortable accommodation.

The rainy season in this part of Hindostan commenced the beginning of June. So much had fallen when we left Delhi, as to render our journey from

thence to Agra extremely delightful, and clothe the country with fresh verdure. Having made arrange. ments to travel chiefly in palanquins, and proceed a morning aud evening stage each day during the remainder of the journey, we set off at four the next morning for Ferozabad, where we arrived at nine, and halted until evening in a small mosque, about five hundred yards from the town, near a large pleasant garden. Ferozabad, seven coss from Hemetpore, is a large populous town, belonging to Hemet Bahauder, miserably infested by religious beggars.

When the sun declined we commenced our second stage of five coss to Shakuabad; something more than half way we came to Muckenpore, the commencement of the territory belonging to Asuph-ul-Dowlah, nabob of Oude. The road was generally through a flat marshy country, abounding with water-fowl, except near the entrance of Shakuabad, where a gentle rise of hills diversified the prospect. We passed the night within the serai, and found the town noisy, populous, and full of prostitutes.

The next morning, at day-break, we left our disagreeable lodging, and travelling through a marshy country, and heavy rain, proceeded to Jess want Nugghur, fourteen coss from Shakuabad. It is a spacious town, well inhabited, but overrun with Fakeers and other mendicants, who might be usefully employed in cleaning the streets, which are filthy to the last degree. The general aspect of the district this day, though flat, was beautifully wooded, and abounded with antelopes.

On the 24th we left Jesswant-Nugghur before sunrise, and travelling six coss through a beautiful coun try, and a good road, we reached Attowe, or Ettaya, at